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Thread: VicCrownVic's 1998 Mercury Grand Marquis LS

  1. #81
    Riding on air! mercurygm88's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by VicCrownVic View Post
    Owner's manual says take it to the dealer. For '99+ only one key is needed to learn a new fob. Key it on and off 8 times ending in key on engine off (run/service mode) and on the 8th time the doors should lock to indicate learn more. Apparently from what I've found this is not the case for '98, no manual way to learn fobs.

    I got my extended 2 month free trial license for FORScan but it's a bit late tonight, so I'll give it a go tomorrow.
    That's strange, I programmed my own fobs for my '95. Then again maybe the instructions came with the fobs and weren't in the manual until later. I feel like on the '95 I had to do something with the keyless entry keypad as opposed to the ignition on/off thing I had to do with the '01, '02, and '03.

    Edit: Found it!

    Mercury Grand Marquis 1995 Remote

    1. Enter 5-digit permanent entry code into the keyless entry keypad.
    2. Within 5 seconds of pressing last button of code, press the 1/2 button. All doors will lock then
    unlock confirming you are in programming mode.
    3. Press any button on first Keyless Remote within 5 seconds of pressing the 1/2 button. Locks will
    cycle to indicate successful programming.
    4. If you have more Keyless Remotes (Including any existing remotes), Press
    any button on the second keyless remote within 5 seconds of previous remote. Locks will cycle again
    to indicate successful programming. (If the keypad light goes out before all remotes are
    programmed the entire process must be repeated).
    5. Press the 7/8 and the 9/0 buttons simultaneously on the keypad to exit program mode.

    That ignition on/off thing they did later was a pain. My '03 TC had like 5 things you could program off that. Fobs, how long the autolamps stayed on, how long the interior lights stayed on, how long the auxiliary power stayed on when the ignition was off, memory seats, it was a pain. The pre-'03 autolamp timer knob is much nicer.
    Last edited by mercurygm88; 05-09-2020 at 03:11 PM.
    2002 Mercury Grand Marquis LSE - Purchased 02/19/20 at 96,500, current Daily Driver.
    2003 Lincoln Town Car Signature Series - Purchased 07/29/19 at 69,500, sold 2/14/20 at 85,500.
    2001 Lincoln Town Car Executive Series - Purchased 04/18/15 at 108,653, traded in 05/02/16 at 139,000.
    1995 Mercury Grand Marquis GS - Inherited 10/2009 at 105,000 totalled 4/30/10 at 120K, My dumbass fault.
    1988 Mercury Grand Marquis LS - Purchased 6/26/11 at 82,610 totalled 4/16/15 at 137,000, Not my fault.

  2. #82
    2 decades of DDing Box Panthers, now in a Whale VicCrownVic's Avatar
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    I did try that this morning, before I found in the '98 CV/MGM Ford Service Manual where it says this procedure is no longer available and the only way to program fobs is with the Ford system. So it appears the internet is correct, there is not a manual learn procedure. Worst case scenario I'll end up getting a 2 day FJDS subscription. I have other options to explore first. When I can get over to my uncle's place I'll see if his tool can do the fob learn. I'm also wondering if I grab a '99 DDM if it can learn fobs following that procedure or the key on 8 times method.
    Last edited by VicCrownVic; 05-09-2020 at 03:47 PM.
    Vic

    ~ 1998 Mercury Grand Marquis LS - new DD
    ~ 1991 Mercury Grand Marquis LS "The Scab" - plenty of rot, summer DD
    ~ 1997 GMC Yukon - wannabe winter DD - returning summer 2020, I finally have an engine
    ~ 1991 Mercury Grand Marquis GS "The Ice Car" - My rotting winter DD
    ~ 1989 Mercury Grand Marquis GS - Rotting Retired DD
    Gone but not forgotten:
    ~ 1988 Country Squire ~ 1987 Ford Crown Vic

  3. #83
    Riding on air! mercurygm88's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by VicCrownVic View Post
    I did try that this morning, before I found in the '98 CV/MGM Ford Service Manual where it says this procedure is no longer available and the only way to program fobs is with the Ford system. So it appears the internet is correct, there is not a manual learn procedure. Worst case scenario I'll end up getting a 2 day FJDS subscription. I have other options to explore first. When I can get over to my uncle's place I'll see if his tool can do the fob learn. I'm also wondering if I grab a '99 DDM if it can learn fobs following that procedure or the key on 8 times method.
    So what your saying is that procedure only worked from 1995-1997? Because I know for a fact I did it on my '95. Seems odd they'd get rid of it in '98 but bring it back by '01.
    2002 Mercury Grand Marquis LSE - Purchased 02/19/20 at 96,500, current Daily Driver.
    2003 Lincoln Town Car Signature Series - Purchased 07/29/19 at 69,500, sold 2/14/20 at 85,500.
    2001 Lincoln Town Car Executive Series - Purchased 04/18/15 at 108,653, traded in 05/02/16 at 139,000.
    1995 Mercury Grand Marquis GS - Inherited 10/2009 at 105,000 totalled 4/30/10 at 120K, My dumbass fault.
    1988 Mercury Grand Marquis LS - Purchased 6/26/11 at 82,610 totalled 4/16/15 at 137,000, Not my fault.

  4. #84
    2 decades of DDing Box Panthers, now in a Whale VicCrownVic's Avatar
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    Correct, and if everything I have read is correct they brought it back in '99. Must have been too big of a PITA. Also I've read info from a few sources that '98 model year had a mid year change. It sounds like early '98 was the same system as '95-'97 while late '98 was the same as '99+ with the exception of not having the manual fob learn capability. One source claimed build date of 2/98 is the break point, but I know for certain that my car with build date if 1/98 has the later system.
    Key learn on the other hand is possible, according to my owner's manual, if I had 2 learned keys, but I don't. So, once I get my Ford blank and have it cut I'll have to see if FORScan can do it. If not, check with my uncle, and if that isn't an option get the FJDS subscription.
    Last edited by VicCrownVic; 05-09-2020 at 08:51 PM.
    Vic

    ~ 1998 Mercury Grand Marquis LS - new DD
    ~ 1991 Mercury Grand Marquis LS "The Scab" - plenty of rot, summer DD
    ~ 1997 GMC Yukon - wannabe winter DD - returning summer 2020, I finally have an engine
    ~ 1991 Mercury Grand Marquis GS "The Ice Car" - My rotting winter DD
    ~ 1989 Mercury Grand Marquis GS - Rotting Retired DD
    Gone but not forgotten:
    ~ 1988 Country Squire ~ 1987 Ford Crown Vic

  5. #85
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    Your '98 should last many years, if you undercoat it.
    '79 Continental Town Car
    '90 Crown Victoria LTD
    '94 Crown Victoria

  6. #86
    2 decades of DDing Box Panthers, now in a Whale VicCrownVic's Avatar
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    That's the plan, but I don't think the place that I want to take it to is open yet. I have a power washer and plan on getting a neat attachment for that to wash the underside, so might do that until September-October time frame and get the undercoating done for the year at that time. I've been under Derek's car so I have firsthand knowledge of how well Krown works. Even better is that they are opening a new location even closer to home, so I'll have no excuses once that location opens.
    Vic

    ~ 1998 Mercury Grand Marquis LS - new DD
    ~ 1991 Mercury Grand Marquis LS "The Scab" - plenty of rot, summer DD
    ~ 1997 GMC Yukon - wannabe winter DD - returning summer 2020, I finally have an engine
    ~ 1991 Mercury Grand Marquis GS "The Ice Car" - My rotting winter DD
    ~ 1989 Mercury Grand Marquis GS - Rotting Retired DD
    Gone but not forgotten:
    ~ 1988 Country Squire ~ 1987 Ford Crown Vic

  7. #87
    2 decades of DDing Box Panthers, now in a Whale VicCrownVic's Avatar
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    Here is some neat info: https://moduleexperts.com/ford-pats-relearn-procedure/. According to the PDF on that page (https://wh2kwcoqpe3ay6wb3tnxavix-wpe...ATS-System.pdf) there is a midyear break for Contour/Mystique that matches the 2/98 dates. Perhaps other sources confused that with the CV/MGM which would explain why my 1/98 built does not fit that supposed midyear break of 2/98.

    Also it looks like swapping a '99 DDM should be no problem as far as I can tell. Pats system is completely separate so nothing to worry about there. Also the stock unlock code on my trunk lid arm will no longer be valid, which might be a good thing security-wise (if someone in the know somehow read my sticker).
    Vic

    ~ 1998 Mercury Grand Marquis LS - new DD
    ~ 1991 Mercury Grand Marquis LS "The Scab" - plenty of rot, summer DD
    ~ 1997 GMC Yukon - wannabe winter DD - returning summer 2020, I finally have an engine
    ~ 1991 Mercury Grand Marquis GS "The Ice Car" - My rotting winter DD
    ~ 1989 Mercury Grand Marquis GS - Rotting Retired DD
    Gone but not forgotten:
    ~ 1988 Country Squire ~ 1987 Ford Crown Vic

  8. #88
    Riding on air! mercurygm88's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by VicCrownVic View Post
    Here is some neat info: https://moduleexperts.com/ford-pats-relearn-procedure/. According to the PDF on that page (https://wh2kwcoqpe3ay6wb3tnxavix-wpe...ATS-System.pdf) there is a midyear break for Contour/Mystique that matches the 2/98 dates. Perhaps other sources confused that with the CV/MGM which would explain why my 1/98 built does not fit that supposed midyear break of 2/98.

    Also it looks like swapping a '99 DDM should be no problem as far as I can tell. Pats system is completely separate so nothing to worry about there. Also the stock unlock code on my trunk lid arm will no longer be valid, which might be a good thing security-wise (if someone in the know somehow read my sticker).
    I've heard people mention that before but I really don't think there's that many people in the know anymore. I've met a lot of people who owned these cars from new and outside of this forum none of them knew about the code location in the trunk. I imagine a lot of the people who did have probably forgotten it now. Mine isn't there anymore anyway, I unfortunately had to pull the drivers door panel to get my code. It wasn't as big of a deal as it could have been and was easier to get the panel back on than in a box. But I get an uneasy feeling about pulling some stuff apart, I wasn't a huge fan of the idea of doing the blend door actuator until I did it and realized it's more time consuming than anything. Other than that socket and extension I lost somewhere in the dash.
    2002 Mercury Grand Marquis LSE - Purchased 02/19/20 at 96,500, current Daily Driver.
    2003 Lincoln Town Car Signature Series - Purchased 07/29/19 at 69,500, sold 2/14/20 at 85,500.
    2001 Lincoln Town Car Executive Series - Purchased 04/18/15 at 108,653, traded in 05/02/16 at 139,000.
    1995 Mercury Grand Marquis GS - Inherited 10/2009 at 105,000 totalled 4/30/10 at 120K, My dumbass fault.
    1988 Mercury Grand Marquis LS - Purchased 6/26/11 at 82,610 totalled 4/16/15 at 137,000, Not my fault.

  9. #89
    2 decades of DDing Box Panthers, now in a Whale VicCrownVic's Avatar
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    Ok, I tried my hand at cutting my own key... (didn't feel like going from place to place until I found one that would cut a blank they didn't supply), thought for sure that I had it FUBARed so I ordered 2 more keys with Mercury logos for not much more than the one Ford logo key.

    I ended up making a template jig out of an old laptop keyboard metal tray/backing plate. Once I did this it was obvious that my initial rough dremel cuts may have been a bit much. The idea was to cut out some of the big chunks with the dremel then file it down the rest of the way.
    I've been messing with the cheapest needle file set from HF along with my home-made template jig the past couple of days and was beyond surprised when I was able to turn my ignition lock cylinder and turn my door lock. SUCCESS!!! (part 1, still have to program)

    Knowing the mistakes I made with the first key, the Mercury keys should turn out a bit better.

    My home-made template jig (edited to not show my entire key cut):

    I used the ridge of the tray to line up the center ridge of the key, used a little 1" C-clamp to clamp my original key down and file the plate down to match the key. Put my blank in and filed it to match the template as much as possible. The ridge of the

    Now to program the keys. Since I only have one original key I'll have to reprogram the PATS which will erase all keys then they re-add keys. FORScan didn't seem to know what to do with the '98 DDM to reprogram remote fobs, even tough it had no problem deleting fobs, so I'm hoping PATS programming doesn't screw up. If it does, and my if my uncle can't do it, I guess I'll be forced to get the FJDS subscription.


    After work today I went out to try the ARA3 PCM since I thought I had read somewhere that the ARA3 would bypass PATS. That does not seem to be the case since the car would not start with any key (original, mechanical non-chipped, or new un-programmed key). So either I didn't do something right or the internet was wrong. I'll have to do some digging to see if I can find that info, it was a few years ago that I came across that info.
    Attached Thumbnails Attached Thumbnails IMG_20200514_202911317.jpg  
    Vic

    ~ 1998 Mercury Grand Marquis LS - new DD
    ~ 1991 Mercury Grand Marquis LS "The Scab" - plenty of rot, summer DD
    ~ 1997 GMC Yukon - wannabe winter DD - returning summer 2020, I finally have an engine
    ~ 1991 Mercury Grand Marquis GS "The Ice Car" - My rotting winter DD
    ~ 1989 Mercury Grand Marquis GS - Rotting Retired DD
    Gone but not forgotten:
    ~ 1988 Country Squire ~ 1987 Ford Crown Vic

  10. #90
    No mean-spiritedness here. IPreferDIY's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by VicCrownVic View Post
    ... After work today I went out to try the ARA3 PCM since I thought I had read somewhere that the ARA3 would bypass PATS. That does not seem to be the case since the car would not start with any key (original, mechanical non-chipped, or new un-programmed key). So either I didn't do something right or the internet was wrong. I'll have to do some digging to see if I can find that info, it was a few years ago that I came across that info.
    Are you sure the ARA3 PCM is good? My understanding from what I've read is that CVPI PCMs do not have PATS functionality and so any key that fits could, in theory, be used. I have been using a 2000 CVPI PCM in my 2000 MGM, and it makes the PATS light go spastic for awhile every time I start the engine, so there must be some kind of PATS issue, but IDK if using a cut key that had not been programmed would necessarily work. I don't see why it wouldn't, but IDK for sure.

    2000 Grand Marquis LS HPP, a hand-me-down in 2008 with 128,000 km; 175,000 km as of July 2014
    mods: air filter box "tuba" (in place of the "trumpet"), headlight relay harness, J-mod (around 186,350 km), 70mm throttle body, NKL4 PCM (from a 2000 CVPI, nothing great there apart from highway cruising), KYB Gas-A-Just shocks (after >202,000 km on originals)

  11. #91
    2 decades of DDing Box Panthers, now in a Whale VicCrownVic's Avatar
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    That was my understanding as well, based on stuff I read a few years ago so I wasn't sure.

    I know how the car behaves with a mechanical key when I try to start it (stock PCM). With the ARA3 and any key it seems to do the same thing. I'll admit that the way I had the PCM connected left room for it to not have a good connection. I didn't tighten the connector bolt, but it seemed all the way seated. I'll try with the connector bolt tightened, but you have a good point. I don't know of this PCM is good. I got from a JY about a year ago figuring I would sell it only to find the price for these used online was down considerably at that time. (I've sold a couple of ARA3s in the past, so I had a good idea what the typical online used price used to be.)

    My guess would be that there probably is some communication back and forth between the PCM and PATS module. When your PATS module never receives a response from the PCM it knows the conditions for starting aren't met so it flashes the light. The PCM not being configured to respond/react to the PATS module goes ahead and allows startup.
    Vic

    ~ 1998 Mercury Grand Marquis LS - new DD
    ~ 1991 Mercury Grand Marquis LS "The Scab" - plenty of rot, summer DD
    ~ 1997 GMC Yukon - wannabe winter DD - returning summer 2020, I finally have an engine
    ~ 1991 Mercury Grand Marquis GS "The Ice Car" - My rotting winter DD
    ~ 1989 Mercury Grand Marquis GS - Rotting Retired DD
    Gone but not forgotten:
    ~ 1988 Country Squire ~ 1987 Ford Crown Vic

  12. #92
    2 decades of DDing Box Panthers, now in a Whale VicCrownVic's Avatar
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    Will probably try the ARA3 tomorrow, but tighten the connector bolt. All the info I've looked at today supports the ARA3 bypassing PATS. Also, apparently I would lose traction control with the ARA3.

    I don't have enough experience with the traction control to know if I like it enough to care if it gets eliminated. I did have one experience where it pissed me off, but I've been driving boxes for 20 years, so maybe I just need more experience with it. I don't plan to run the ARA3 (assuming it works) unless I screw something up (like delete keys and for some reason can't re-add them) and need to get by until I can fix it. If I want to eventually run the ARA3 I'll get the correct torque converter since I don't trust myself not to blow up the stock one. I mean, what fun would it be if I can't push things to their limit?

    On the key, I started to add a thought and never finished. The ridge of the... tray/jig was filed done ever so slightly to ensure they key sat flush with the template.

    The poorly cut key does best if the short side, with a little too much material cut off, is down when inserted. I guess gravity helps it out, while short side up means gravity is fighting against me.

    Also, I can start the car with a mechanical key (I had cut in early March right after I got the car) if I hold the programmed key head next to the ignition lock cylinder. I tried the unprogrammed key with the programmed key next to it in the same manner. PATS did not like that and would not start with the programmed key until I gave it enough time to "forget about" the unprogrammed key (I swapped keys in the ignition pretty quick), that was interesting.

    We'll see how tomorrow's experimenting goes.
    Vic

    ~ 1998 Mercury Grand Marquis LS - new DD
    ~ 1991 Mercury Grand Marquis LS "The Scab" - plenty of rot, summer DD
    ~ 1997 GMC Yukon - wannabe winter DD - returning summer 2020, I finally have an engine
    ~ 1991 Mercury Grand Marquis GS "The Ice Car" - My rotting winter DD
    ~ 1989 Mercury Grand Marquis GS - Rotting Retired DD
    Gone but not forgotten:
    ~ 1988 Country Squire ~ 1987 Ford Crown Vic

  13. #93
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    I thought there was a wire you needed to ground from the PCM connector when putting a police PCM in the Car?
    -Nick M.
    Columbia, SC

    66 Squire, 89 Colony Park, 90 TC, 03 (2x) TC, 06 TC, 07 TC
    03 BMW 540iT, 04 Ford F150 4.6 XLT Reg cab, 8ft bed

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    Kinda makes you miss boxlifeᵀᴹ when a key was a key and nothing cared if it came from a hardware store or a junkyard Escort GT?
    1988 Crown Vic Wagon - daily
    1990 Country Squire - weekend cruiser, former lawn ornament
    Other: 95 Ranger, 74 F250, 68 Mustang, 94 Mustang
    Sold: 1982 LTD and 1987 Crown Vic

    GMN Box Panther History
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  15. #95
    No mean-spiritedness here. IPreferDIY's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by TecNickal View Post
    I thought there was a wire you needed to ground from the PCM connector when putting a police PCM in the Car?
    I read something about later CVPI PCMs (maybe 04+ ??) requiring some ground wire trick to get the starter to work, but 98-00 should be plug 'n play (edit: but keeping in mind possible differences in rear gear ratios and torque converter sizes). Compatibility issues for 01+ PCMs are beyond me.
    Last edited by IPreferDIY; 05-16-2020 at 02:42 PM.

    2000 Grand Marquis LS HPP, a hand-me-down in 2008 with 128,000 km; 175,000 km as of July 2014
    mods: air filter box "tuba" (in place of the "trumpet"), headlight relay harness, J-mod (around 186,350 km), 70mm throttle body, NKL4 PCM (from a 2000 CVPI, nothing great there apart from highway cruising), KYB Gas-A-Just shocks (after >202,000 km on originals)

  16. #96
    2 decades of DDing Box Panthers, now in a Whale VicCrownVic's Avatar
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    That connector felt tight, but it goes in a lot further when you tighten the bolt on the connector. After I made sure the car started with the any key and the ARA3 I reconnected the stock PCM so I could program keys.

    FORScan erased all keys and programmed my two no problem. I now have two programmed keys. Now to figure out what to do about my remote. Might end up grabbing a '99+ DDM from the JY which should theoretically give me the option of manually learning remotes without a scantool since FORScan refuses to do that.
    Vic

    ~ 1998 Mercury Grand Marquis LS - new DD
    ~ 1991 Mercury Grand Marquis LS "The Scab" - plenty of rot, summer DD
    ~ 1997 GMC Yukon - wannabe winter DD - returning summer 2020, I finally have an engine
    ~ 1991 Mercury Grand Marquis GS "The Ice Car" - My rotting winter DD
    ~ 1989 Mercury Grand Marquis GS - Rotting Retired DD
    Gone but not forgotten:
    ~ 1988 Country Squire ~ 1987 Ford Crown Vic

  17. #97
    2 decades of DDing Box Panthers, now in a Whale VicCrownVic's Avatar
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    My two Mercury blank keys arrived Thursday. I was able to learn both with the manual learn (insert one learned key, on-off, insert second learned key, on-off, insert unlearned key, on-off) without any issue. Used the mechanical/non-chipped key and held each blank next to the ignition and was able to lean both as soon as they arrived on Thursday.

    I cut them both on Friday. First of the two I got down close to my template, put it in the ignition (or door, don't remember) and it wouldn't turn. Took me a few tries of fine tuning the key with needle files before it would turn. Second key I got on the first try. The first one I didn't want to overshoot the mark and take off too much material, but I came to the conclusion that my template leaves a hair too much material that puts the hand cut key a hair outside of the tolerance range. This is better than being off in the other direction and taking off too much material. I was able to easily verify that the template left too much material when I compared the mechanical key, cut by Ace Hardware, which is way below the template. This gave me a good idea how much material I had to work with to stay within tolerance.

    Now I have two working keys with Mercury logos.



    Attached Thumbnails Attached Thumbnails IMG_20200521_193817066.jpg   IMG_20200521_193900283.jpg  
    Vic

    ~ 1998 Mercury Grand Marquis LS - new DD
    ~ 1991 Mercury Grand Marquis LS "The Scab" - plenty of rot, summer DD
    ~ 1997 GMC Yukon - wannabe winter DD - returning summer 2020, I finally have an engine
    ~ 1991 Mercury Grand Marquis GS "The Ice Car" - My rotting winter DD
    ~ 1989 Mercury Grand Marquis GS - Rotting Retired DD
    Gone but not forgotten:
    ~ 1988 Country Squire ~ 1987 Ford Crown Vic

  18. #98
    The Brown Blob 87gtVIC's Avatar
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    Cutting your own key. Way cool. I have done some patience involved projects before but don't know if I could tolerate cutting a key.
    ~David~

    My 1987 Crown Victoria Coupe: The Brown Blob
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    Quote Originally Posted by DerekTheGreat View Post
    But, that's just coming from me, this site's biggest pessimist. Best of luck

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    2 decades of DDing Box Panthers, now in a Whale VicCrownVic's Avatar
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    With these the key heads are too fat to easily hold keys against each other to compare the cut. Box keys would be much easier depending on the cut.
    When I was googling for ideas on key cutting I came across gauges that are used to read the cut number, sort of like how with hair clipper numbered attachments each number represents a cut depth. Based on those gauges I got the impression that there was some tolerance between numbers. Also comparing the non-Ford-Mercury key that came with the car to the non-chipped key I could see that there was a difference confirming a rough tolerance from r me to shoot for. My template was made from the key that came with the car, the key with the most material.

    A Dremel to get close to the template then needle file the rest of the way is my recommendation. Calipers might make the job easier/quicker but are not necessary.
    One of the keys turned fine depending on which side was up. The bad orientation felt like at least one pin was dragging. This is where the needle files and patience really came in along with tape measure measurements (mm for best precision) and some eyeballing. I eventually got the key turning smoothly in both orientations.

    I might also recommend, when dealing with more expensive chipped keys, to get a cheaper non chipped key blank to practice on. Also, line up the old and blank key tip to tip, don't try to cut from the shoulder of the head. (I made a few mistakes on the first Ford logo key, but eventually it worked, lol.)
    Last edited by VicCrownVic; 05-23-2020 at 05:26 PM.
    Vic

    ~ 1998 Mercury Grand Marquis LS - new DD
    ~ 1991 Mercury Grand Marquis LS "The Scab" - plenty of rot, summer DD
    ~ 1997 GMC Yukon - wannabe winter DD - returning summer 2020, I finally have an engine
    ~ 1991 Mercury Grand Marquis GS "The Ice Car" - My rotting winter DD
    ~ 1989 Mercury Grand Marquis GS - Rotting Retired DD
    Gone but not forgotten:
    ~ 1988 Country Squire ~ 1987 Ford Crown Vic

  20. #100
    2 decades of DDing Box Panthers, now in a Whale VicCrownVic's Avatar
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    Very successful JY run this morning.
    I got my new DDM from a 2004 MGM, and it learned my fob no problem. I then went in with FORScan and made sure only my fob was learned. It was, but I deleted it and FORScan couldn't run the learn on the '04 DDM either. Oh well, at least I can now manually add fobs.

    I also found an aluminum driveshaft that someone had nicely removed and placed in the car when they yanked the rear end. It hadn't been mangled by loader forks so there was no way I was passing that up.

    I'll probably install the drive shaft when I get around to the intake and rear springs and shocks.

    Edit: after messing with that stuff I found my p-side front window would only roll down from the p-side door. No response in either direction when hitting the switch on the driver door, but multimeter seems to indicate the switch and voltage is right on the driver door passenger switch. I was able to get the window up by reversing polarity to the motor and hitting down on the p-side door window switch. Swapping a good switch from the rear door didn't help and the multi meter seems to indicate that the switch is doing what it should. Plugging the '98 DDM back in didn't help either so I'll have to pull out the EVTM later and see if I can make sense of this behavior.
    Last edited by VicCrownVic; 05-30-2020 at 06:03 PM.
    Vic

    ~ 1998 Mercury Grand Marquis LS - new DD
    ~ 1991 Mercury Grand Marquis LS "The Scab" - plenty of rot, summer DD
    ~ 1997 GMC Yukon - wannabe winter DD - returning summer 2020, I finally have an engine
    ~ 1991 Mercury Grand Marquis GS "The Ice Car" - My rotting winter DD
    ~ 1989 Mercury Grand Marquis GS - Rotting Retired DD
    Gone but not forgotten:
    ~ 1988 Country Squire ~ 1987 Ford Crown Vic

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