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Thread: Finally Got the Work Started on the '79

  1. #21

    Default Finally Got the Work Started on the '79

    Quote Originally Posted by ledzilla View Post
    Thanks for taking a look. And yeah, that site layout is basically torture.

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    Sure thing. The kit is for a 1985 mustang. It is part number 6-9030. The part number for the extra medium length stud bolt is 2-7035.

    How many stud bolts where used on your pump? I looked at the pictures again and it looks like yours had 4 with the rest being regular bolts.

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    Last edited by matth825; 03-12-2020 at 11:05 PM.

  2. #22

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    Yeah, I think that's right, four studs. I need to make it back out to the garage to verify. I was just out there and forgot to look. However, it looks like I can't find part #2-7035. Nothing comes up for it on their site. The other set does, though.

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  3. #23

    Default Finally Got the Work Started on the '79

    Quote Originally Posted by ledzilla View Post
    Yeah, I think that's right, four studs. I need to make it back out to the garage to verify. I was just out there and forgot to look. However, it looks like I can't find part #2-7035. Nothing comes up for it on their site. The other set does, though.

    Sent from my VS988 using Tapatalk
    I think the 2-7035 was a special part number they created for the extra stud bolt. Itís normally not sold by itself. Youíll have to call them to order that one but you may not need it. Since you only have 4 studs I think you need 2 short , 1 medium and 1 long. The kit will have all of those. My accessory bracket configuration on my 85 is different. I needed 2 shorts, 3 mediums and 1 long.


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    Last edited by matth825; 03-16-2020 at 02:45 PM.

  4. #24
    I'm an air-conditioned gypsy gadget73's Avatar
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    '79 studs are probably going to be different than 80+. AC compressor was different, and I don't know what that does to the mounting.

    86 Lincoln Town Car (Galactica).
    5.0 HO, CompCams XE258,Scorpion 1.72 roller rockers, 3.55 K code rear, tow package, BHPerformance ported E7 heads, Tmoss Explorer intake, 65mm throttle body, Hedman 1 5/8" headers, 2.5" dual exhaust, ASP underdrive pulley

    91 Lincoln Mark VII LSC SE, triple black (Timewarp) - poly front bushings, KYB struts and shocks, Holley SystemMax1 lower intake, SilverFox AOD valve body,

    1984 Lincoln Continental TurboDiesel - rolls coal

    Quote Originally Posted by phayzer5 View Post
    I drive a Lincoln. I can't be bothered to shift like the peasants and rabble rousers

  5. #25

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    Went and took a photo of the studs and bolts (including the sheared stud), figured that ought to clear things up a bit.

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  6. #26
    I'm an air-conditioned gypsy gadget73's Avatar
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    bolts that go into water passages suck

    86 Lincoln Town Car (Galactica).
    5.0 HO, CompCams XE258,Scorpion 1.72 roller rockers, 3.55 K code rear, tow package, BHPerformance ported E7 heads, Tmoss Explorer intake, 65mm throttle body, Hedman 1 5/8" headers, 2.5" dual exhaust, ASP underdrive pulley

    91 Lincoln Mark VII LSC SE, triple black (Timewarp) - poly front bushings, KYB struts and shocks, Holley SystemMax1 lower intake, SilverFox AOD valve body,

    1984 Lincoln Continental TurboDiesel - rolls coal

    Quote Originally Posted by phayzer5 View Post
    I drive a Lincoln. I can't be bothered to shift like the peasants and rabble rousers

  7. #27

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    Either way, I have some crusty studs. And I think that I should also replace the long alternator bolt, too. It's a little crusty and was a monster to extract. Still need to test the alternator and check to see if the bolt was having trouble in the alternator casing or the mounting bracket. I think the alternator is 100A, but not completely sure. Kind of going on comparing it's layout to photos of alternators for sale.

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  8. #28

    Default Finally Got the Work Started on the '79

    Quote Originally Posted by gadget73 View Post
    bolts that go into water passages suck
    Bigtime! The stainless studs were expensive but Iíll have a smile on my face if I have to take my timing cover off again. I created many new vulgar words fighting with mine the first time.

    Thanks for posting that picture too. Makes sense the studs would be difference since gadget said 79s used a different AC compressor.


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  9. #29
    I'm an air-conditioned gypsy gadget73's Avatar
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    Crusty case ground is a decent bet. I had some alternator whine problems on the Continental and it completely stopped when I pulled the alternator and ran the gasket grinder on the bracket and the alternator case where it touches.

    FWIW, I thought that was a 100a too, but stamped right into the case it says 70a. Looks absolutely identical to the 100 amp I have on the shelf as a spare, so thats what will go on should the 70a barf.

    86 Lincoln Town Car (Galactica).
    5.0 HO, CompCams XE258,Scorpion 1.72 roller rockers, 3.55 K code rear, tow package, BHPerformance ported E7 heads, Tmoss Explorer intake, 65mm throttle body, Hedman 1 5/8" headers, 2.5" dual exhaust, ASP underdrive pulley

    91 Lincoln Mark VII LSC SE, triple black (Timewarp) - poly front bushings, KYB struts and shocks, Holley SystemMax1 lower intake, SilverFox AOD valve body,

    1984 Lincoln Continental TurboDiesel - rolls coal

    Quote Originally Posted by phayzer5 View Post
    I drive a Lincoln. I can't be bothered to shift like the peasants and rabble rousers

  10. #30

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    I did a test fit of the bolt with the alternator... Yeah, I can't get it back into the long case mount at all. I'm guessing that I'd probably need to run something into the bolt hole to clean it out, and gte a new bolt, cover it with anti-seize before installing it to prevent this from happening again. I was also thinking maybe part # 6-0829 from Totally Stainless might be a better option, just get a whole slew of fresh bolts. I'll probably just call them and ask what would be best for my application, though.

    I don't think that I can re-use the dist, though. I pulled it out, gave it a lookover... It's making some ugly noises inside when I spin the shaft. Plus, it has no wiring connections somehow. No wires, no plugs, no vacuum ports... Not sure how that thing adjusted ignition timing. So, yeah, have to replace that dist, since I can't make it work without the ECM, it seems. And I don't think it has mush service life left to it, anyway. It might have gotten corroded somewhere internally. Haven't taken the cap off yet, I don't think I really want to know. The plug wires are interesting, though. I'm fairly certain that they're factory original wires. They're numbered for the cylinder and are dated 1979 on them. Figure I'll take a picture once I have them fully removed and cleaned up. A couple are damaged by mice, especially the wire for cylinder #1, if memory serves correctly. I think it's chewed completely through the insulation.

    I did a test fit of the new 2150 carb, and aside form the fuel connection it looks like it's going to fit just fine. I'm waiting until after I have the timing set redone, with the cover and water pump back on before I really check out the fuel connection, because I'll need to reconnect the hard line to the pump so I know exactly where it lies, and I don't want to deal with that until after replacing the timing chain and gears. It has a weird bend in it for where the original 7200 connects. I'm not really sure how much of the original carb can be salvaged. It looks pretty nasty. I bet someone who knows what they're doing can restore it to full functionality. I wonder if after I pull the wiring harness, if I bundled up all of the parts I removed with the carb if someone in Cali could make use of the whole thing, even with the handful of chewed wires. Seems like they could be easily repaired by someone willing, which I am not since all of the damaged wires are for the stuff I removed permanently.

    I think I'm going to keep the hot air diverter for now. The vacuum motor on the air cleaner snorkel still works, unlike on my LTD, and figure that would probably be nice to keep for cold day starts. And, also unlike my LTD, the bi-metal switch in the air cleaner is still there and so far seems to work. I'll just replace all of the vacuum hoses for it and reconnect it to the intake manifold vacuum ports at the rear. I'm thinking I'll get the air cleaner cleaned up, and maybe painted. I found some paint that will make it look like it's anodized aluminum. Figure it can't hurt too much to try it out. Give it a shiny blue look. Speaking of blue... Trying to decide on what to do with the valve covers. They're not looking so hot. Not sure if I should just get new covers, or take the original covers out to be sandblasted and powder coated. I think if I were to replace them, I'd need to finish removing some of the emissions stuff. The EGR tube runs over the passenger side valve cover. I'd just take that whole thing out, but it seems to help with warming the engine more quickly, and I have no idea what I'd use the block off the port in the exhaust manifold. In the meantime, though, I have the air pump and most of the related ducting removed. Have to remove it anyway just so that access to the passenger side spark plugs can be granted. The check valves are still there, and like the EGR tube, need to know what to use to plug their ports so that they can be removed entirely. All of the other electronics have been removed, so there are just some plugs hanging around now.

    It's pretty well cleared up under the hood now. I suppose when the water pump, fan, and radiator go back in it won't look so open, though. Need to contact a shop about repairing the radiator, though. It has a damaged inlet, bent out of round, and I'd like to get it refreshed, looking nice, and any potential leaks patched. Don't want to deal with some sorry ass garbage aftermarket radiator unless it's a high quality radiator meant for more than what I intend to through at that engine. The only aftermarket radiator I've ever bought had a two year warranty and sprung a bad leak three weeks after the warranty expired. Not doing that again. All told that fiasco cost me over $500 to resolve, and no repair shops were even invovled.

    So, at this point, waiting for my tax refund, then buying some more parts, and then putting things back together. After I finish some extra cleanup under the hood. I think for now I'll leave the original wiring harness and just work around it until either I find an alternate OEM harness, or I just make something myself. I'm just glad that I can see the progress I'm making. Also planning to make a run to local junkyards to make a complete set of turbine style wheels with Merc center caps to replace the 14" steelies currently mounted. I haven't had a chance to go when it hasn't been sloppy wet outside.

  11. #31

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    It just dawned on me that I forgot to examine the alternator casing more closely last night to find info on it's output. Maybe I'll remember to do that tonight after I get home...

  12. #32

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    Oh yeah, that's another thing... Eventually I'll get it upgraded to a 3G alternator. Planning to do the same with my 78 LTD and 87 F-250. I don't want to use a 1-wire setup, but I have a mix of serpentine and v-belt pulleys all around, and trying to get what I really need is a pain. I think with the Marquis it'll be easier since it seems easier to get a 3G for a 6-rub belt than a v-belt and it's currently configured with a 6-rib on the alternator. Actually, I think the only thing that was on a v-belt was the air pump...

  13. #33
    I'm an air-conditioned gypsy gadget73's Avatar
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    3 plug Duraspark box? The third connector is timing advance. Must be run from a crank trigger like the EEC-III cars were.

    86 Lincoln Town Car (Galactica).
    5.0 HO, CompCams XE258,Scorpion 1.72 roller rockers, 3.55 K code rear, tow package, BHPerformance ported E7 heads, Tmoss Explorer intake, 65mm throttle body, Hedman 1 5/8" headers, 2.5" dual exhaust, ASP underdrive pulley

    91 Lincoln Mark VII LSC SE, triple black (Timewarp) - poly front bushings, KYB struts and shocks, Holley SystemMax1 lower intake, SilverFox AOD valve body,

    1984 Lincoln Continental TurboDiesel - rolls coal

    Quote Originally Posted by phayzer5 View Post
    I drive a Lincoln. I can't be bothered to shift like the peasants and rabble rousers

  14. #34

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    So, before the "shelter in place" order descended upon Illinois, I did manage to determine that the alternator was 70A and get it tested at a local Advance. The alternator tested to work correctly, so I'll just need to get it cleaned up for now. Also bought a new water pump while I was there.

    I've added some photos of a few pieces here. So, even though this thing has the 7200 VV 2 bbl and all those sensors, it's only a 2-plug ICM. You can see in the photos, too, that there are no connections to the dist, either electronic or vacuum, and it's just a regular oil filled cylindrical coil with positive and negative terminals. I'm curious how this thing would have managed ICM signalling or adjusting timing advance.

    I'm going to be trying to put in a couple orders to Summit and RockAuto soon. Going to be ordering some gaskets, the timing cover, the timing set, and some stuff for another of my cars. Figure while I'm at it I'll replace the plastic carb spacer and the harmonic balancer. I've seen some nice 2bbl spacers on Summit, since I was considering one for my LTD wagon. Going back out to the garage later to double check the thickness. But, I'm not sure on the balancer. I see too many options about balancer weight, like 28oz or 54oz, or something like that. Figured I'd get a nice one in there, but no clue what to look for other than one with four pulley bolts.








  15. #35
    Wagon Addicted Tiggie's Avatar
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    On the balancer, 28oz would be right for all 351W regardless of year. Four bolts. I’d get a stock direct replacement unless you have a need for an SFI approved one. The aftermarket universal fit versions have pulley spacers to make it fit right.
    1988 Crown Vic Wagon - daily
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  16. #36
    I'm an air-conditioned gypsy gadget73's Avatar
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    right, 28 for a 351 and 302's prior to 1982.

    hm, so no pickup in the dizzy, and 2 plug D-spark. No third plug randomly hanging out that maybe went to a Dspark 3? Still has to have a crank pickup if there isn't one in the distributor. Its coming from somewhere. I don't think Dspark has any internal advance capabilities so I don't know what would have been going on there either.

    dunno, I've never even heard of half the stuff your car has on it. Every 351 Vic I've ever seen was just a conventional Duraspark setup with the spark retard input from the MCU. Maybe that was '79 only. The only crank trigger stuff I've ever seen was EEC-III CFI.

    86 Lincoln Town Car (Galactica).
    5.0 HO, CompCams XE258,Scorpion 1.72 roller rockers, 3.55 K code rear, tow package, BHPerformance ported E7 heads, Tmoss Explorer intake, 65mm throttle body, Hedman 1 5/8" headers, 2.5" dual exhaust, ASP underdrive pulley

    91 Lincoln Mark VII LSC SE, triple black (Timewarp) - poly front bushings, KYB struts and shocks, Holley SystemMax1 lower intake, SilverFox AOD valve body,

    1984 Lincoln Continental TurboDiesel - rolls coal

    Quote Originally Posted by phayzer5 View Post
    I drive a Lincoln. I can't be bothered to shift like the peasants and rabble rousers

  17. #37

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    It does have a crank sensor, and I attached a photo of the ring. This isn't getting restored, so not really worried about it since it won't come with any replacement balancer. I guess this would handle the removal of the reluctor from inside the dist. But nothing to suggest what managed the advance. So, I decided to open it up...





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  18. #38

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    Fairly interesting cap and rotor configuration, though.



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  19. #39

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    I realized that the rotor contacts are kind of long. I'm guessing that with the crank position sensor, MAP sensor, and whatever else is going on in there, the ECM was controlling when to send power in order to control ignition advance, and the length of the rotor contacts allowed some variance to handle that.

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    Last edited by ledzilla; 03-23-2020 at 11:08 PM.

  20. #40
    fomoco panthers !
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    1979 Has so many one year only parts. I had three 1979 panthers. Never again. If you find a good deal on the one year only cap/rotor, pick up a couple as spares. My distributor guts on my old 82 Lincoln looked liked that.( Cap and rotor were different) A so called mechanic tried to sell me all new parts that were on other year models. He got really pissed off when I came over to his shop and proved him wrong. He just looked at the thing in shock.
    Get yourself a genuine 1979 Ford full size car manual. Be careful when buying parts. Take the part number from the old part with you when ordering plus the date of production. Also know if it is a Ca or federal smog equipped car.
    Best of luck

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