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Thread: Finally Got the Work Started on the '79

  1. #41

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    Quote Originally Posted by Mainemantom View Post
    1979 Has so many one year only parts. I had three 1979 panthers. Never again. If you find a good deal on the one year only cap/rotor, pick up a couple as spares. My distributor guts on my old 82 Lincoln looked liked that.( Cap and rotor were different) A so called mechanic tried to sell me all new parts that were on other year models. He got really pissed off when I came over to his shop and proved him wrong. He just looked at the thing in shock.
    Get yourself a genuine 1979 Ford full size car manual. Be careful when buying parts. Take the part number from the old part with you when ordering plus the date of production. Also know if it is a Ca or federal smog equipped car.
    Best of luck
    Not too worried about those one year only parts. Most of it is getting removed. Where I live the car won't be subject to any kind of emissions requirements, so it's getting adjusted to simply be running a 2150 carb and the necessary vacuum and electrical circuits for being able to run. I can't even find half of the electronics under the hood for sale anywhere, so it doesn't make sense to keep it in factory configuration. I can't even replace the EGR the way this thing is laid out. No one sells this version, and seaching on the part number yielded no results. At some point the intake, heads, and carb are getting a full replacement for better power output, so yeah, not too concerned with keeping it factory stock.

    Sent from my VS988 using Tapatalk
    1978 Ford LTD wagon, 351M
    1979 Mercury Marquis, 351W
    1987 Ford F-250 HD 4x4, 460, 4-speed, reg cab full bed
    2003 Mercury Marauder, 4.6L DOHC, JLT CAI, 4.10 gears, J-mod, custom tune

  2. #42

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    I think I'm going to have to pull the balancer and physically examine and measure it before ordering a replacement. Also need to examine how the pulley sits against it, since I see some balancers not configured exactly the same, and I'd like to make sure whatever I buy doesn't interfere with the pulley.

    On that note, I'm also planning to get the pulleys powder coated. There's a shop I'll be having powder coat some wheels, and I'll discuss the pulleys with them, too. I did some research and the consensus seems to be that so long as care is taken on serpentine pulleys, it should work out fine. V-belt pulleys apparently don't require as much care when powder coating around the pulley groove.

    Sent from my VS988 using Tapatalk
    1978 Ford LTD wagon, 351M
    1979 Mercury Marquis, 351W
    1987 Ford F-250 HD 4x4, 460, 4-speed, reg cab full bed
    2003 Mercury Marauder, 4.6L DOHC, JLT CAI, 4.10 gears, J-mod, custom tune

  3. #43
    I'm an air-conditioned gypsy gadget73's Avatar
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    yeah the EEC-III ignition stuff looked exactly like that, stupid cap, funky rotor, and the wheel on the balancer.

    86 Lincoln Town Car (Galactica).
    5.0 HO, CompCams XE258,Scorpion 1.72 roller rockers, 3.55 K code rear, tow package, BHPerformance ported E7 heads, Tmoss Explorer intake, 65mm throttle body, Hedman 1 5/8" headers, 2.5" dual exhaust, ASP underdrive pulley

    91 Lincoln Mark VII LSC SE, triple black (Timewarp) - poly front bushings, KYB struts and shocks, Holley SystemMax1 lower intake, SilverFox AOD valve body,

    1984 Lincoln Continental TurboDiesel - rolls coal

    Quote Originally Posted by phayzer5 View Post
    I drive a Lincoln. I can't be bothered to shift like the peasants and rabble rousers

  4. #44

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    Well, at least it still beats dealing with points and condenser. My dad had a Grand Am or Grand Prix back in the 70's that burned through points all the time. He's also having some issues with that in this old Studebaker truck he's working on. But I think he only dropped something into the dist.

    I'm installing an HEI for now since I got a good deal on one, and buying it helped a friend. Thinking I might tap into the wiring for the ICM, maybe chop off a plug and repurpose it or something.

    Sent from my VS988 using Tapatalk
    1978 Ford LTD wagon, 351M
    1979 Mercury Marquis, 351W
    1987 Ford F-250 HD 4x4, 460, 4-speed, reg cab full bed
    2003 Mercury Marauder, 4.6L DOHC, JLT CAI, 4.10 gears, J-mod, custom tune

  5. #45
    I'm an air-conditioned gypsy gadget73's Avatar
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    Points aren't bad if you have the resistor wire and you drive it somewhat regularly. No resistor and they fry. Let it sit and they "fuzz" and then won't go. Absolutely horrible in a boat too. Sits a lot, and its damp.


    I'm more of a Duraspark guy, but mostly because the HEI distributor is big and ugly. GM at least was polite enough to hide it in the back. A breaker point distributor with a Pertronix ignitor hidden inside is a slick fix too. Nice small dizzy, but no points to maintain. Had one of those on the Beetle I had a long time ago, never a minute of trouble out of it but i had the points in the glovebox the whole time I owned that car. Went to the junkyard with it.

    86 Lincoln Town Car (Galactica).
    5.0 HO, CompCams XE258,Scorpion 1.72 roller rockers, 3.55 K code rear, tow package, BHPerformance ported E7 heads, Tmoss Explorer intake, 65mm throttle body, Hedman 1 5/8" headers, 2.5" dual exhaust, ASP underdrive pulley

    91 Lincoln Mark VII LSC SE, triple black (Timewarp) - poly front bushings, KYB struts and shocks, Holley SystemMax1 lower intake, SilverFox AOD valve body,

    1984 Lincoln Continental TurboDiesel - rolls coal

    Quote Originally Posted by phayzer5 View Post
    I drive a Lincoln. I can't be bothered to shift like the peasants and rabble rousers

  6. #46

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    Yeah, the damned thing is pretty big, but I'm not completely put out by it. I'll give it a try for now, maybe change it up later. Can't complain too much since I can't use the factory dist and I got the HEI pretty cheap.

    In the meantime, though, I've been trying to pull the balancer. I can't seem to get it to budge. I was going to try using an impact, but I just discovered that there isn't enough space for any of my impacts. Can almost fit my pneumatic Craftsman, though. If it seems that I have sufficient spare funds I might pop on over to Harbor Freight and pick up a compact impact with similar torque to my Craftsman. So annoying. I even tried a 2-foot breaker bar for leverage. That damned thing just doesn't want to come loose.

    Sent from my VS988 using Tapatalk
    1978 Ford LTD wagon, 351M
    1979 Mercury Marquis, 351W
    1987 Ford F-250 HD 4x4, 460, 4-speed, reg cab full bed
    2003 Mercury Marauder, 4.6L DOHC, JLT CAI, 4.10 gears, J-mod, custom tune

  7. #47
    I'm an air-conditioned gypsy gadget73's Avatar
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    you pulled the washer out right? It absolutely will not go otherwise.

    Should have enough space if you have the fan shroud out. I've used my not particularly compact Kobalt impact to remove mine before.

    86 Lincoln Town Car (Galactica).
    5.0 HO, CompCams XE258,Scorpion 1.72 roller rockers, 3.55 K code rear, tow package, BHPerformance ported E7 heads, Tmoss Explorer intake, 65mm throttle body, Hedman 1 5/8" headers, 2.5" dual exhaust, ASP underdrive pulley

    91 Lincoln Mark VII LSC SE, triple black (Timewarp) - poly front bushings, KYB struts and shocks, Holley SystemMax1 lower intake, SilverFox AOD valve body,

    1984 Lincoln Continental TurboDiesel - rolls coal

    Quote Originally Posted by phayzer5 View Post
    I drive a Lincoln. I can't be bothered to shift like the peasants and rabble rousers

  8. #48

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    No, I didn't remove the washer. Once it was out, I didn't need much at all to pull the balancer, came out smooth and easy. Now I just have to figure out why the timing cover won't come off. Feels like I missed a bolt on the bottom.

    Sent from my VS988 using Tapatalk
    1978 Ford LTD wagon, 351M
    1979 Mercury Marquis, 351W
    1987 Ford F-250 HD 4x4, 460, 4-speed, reg cab full bed
    2003 Mercury Marauder, 4.6L DOHC, JLT CAI, 4.10 gears, J-mod, custom tune

  9. #49

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    I did miss a bolt... Took a look at the new cover, and there's a bolt hole behind the crank sensor mount. Guess I know what I'm doing when I get back into the garage.

    Sent from my VS988 using Tapatalk
    1978 Ford LTD wagon, 351M
    1979 Mercury Marquis, 351W
    1987 Ford F-250 HD 4x4, 460, 4-speed, reg cab full bed
    2003 Mercury Marauder, 4.6L DOHC, JLT CAI, 4.10 gears, J-mod, custom tune

  10. #50

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    Ok, so I didn't miss a bolt, it was just really stuck with the pan gaskets. Seems like I might have some adjustments to make with the new cover.



    Also, is there supposed to be this much play in the chain? I mean, I have a new timing set anyway, but this feels kind of sloppy.





    Guess I'll need to get to some cleaning and finding TDC, matching the marks on the gears. They're so dirty, can't find any markings.
    Last edited by ledzilla; 04-02-2020 at 09:20 PM.
    1978 Ford LTD wagon, 351M
    1979 Mercury Marquis, 351W
    1987 Ford F-250 HD 4x4, 460, 4-speed, reg cab full bed
    2003 Mercury Marauder, 4.6L DOHC, JLT CAI, 4.10 gears, J-mod, custom tune

  11. #51
    Road Warrior Kodachrome Wolf's Avatar
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    Chain is definitely worn, but it also looks like you have the original nylon teeth type timing set. Those have been reportedly bad for longevity.

    My Cars:
    -1987 Grand Marquis Colony Park LS (325K Miles) - April 2017 + September 2019 POTM Winner
    -1989 Sable LS Wagon (88,710 Miles) - Sold
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  12. #52
    Beater gonna beat sly's Avatar
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    yeah... chain is plenty stretched there and those plastic teeth are so old at this point, even if they look brand new, they could explode tomorrow. Definitely a good idea to put the new timing set on.

    Only two things are infinite, the universe and human stupidity, and I'm not sure about the former. -- Albert Einstein
    rides: 93 Crown Vic LX (The Red Velvet Cake), 2000 Crown Vic base model (Sandy), 2003 Expedition (the vacation beast)
    Quote Originally Posted by gadget73
    ... and it should all work like magic and unicorns and stuff.
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    Overhead, some poor bastards are flying in airplanes.

  13. #53

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    All set on a double roller.


    Sent from my VS988 using Tapatalk
    1978 Ford LTD wagon, 351M
    1979 Mercury Marquis, 351W
    1987 Ford F-250 HD 4x4, 460, 4-speed, reg cab full bed
    2003 Mercury Marauder, 4.6L DOHC, JLT CAI, 4.10 gears, J-mod, custom tune

  14. #54
    I'm an air-conditioned gypsy gadget73's Avatar
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    chain stretch + plastic tooth wear. All of this is bad.

    86 Lincoln Town Car (Galactica).
    5.0 HO, CompCams XE258,Scorpion 1.72 roller rockers, 3.55 K code rear, tow package, BHPerformance ported E7 heads, Tmoss Explorer intake, 65mm throttle body, Hedman 1 5/8" headers, 2.5" dual exhaust, ASP underdrive pulley

    91 Lincoln Mark VII LSC SE, triple black (Timewarp) - poly front bushings, KYB struts and shocks, Holley SystemMax1 lower intake, SilverFox AOD valve body,

    1984 Lincoln Continental TurboDiesel - rolls coal

    Quote Originally Posted by phayzer5 View Post
    I drive a Lincoln. I can't be bothered to shift like the peasants and rabble rousers

  15. #55

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    Yeah, I'm glad I'm tearing this down. That sheared stud was a blessing in disguise.

    Sent from my VS988 using Tapatalk
    1978 Ford LTD wagon, 351M
    1979 Mercury Marquis, 351W
    1987 Ford F-250 HD 4x4, 460, 4-speed, reg cab full bed
    2003 Mercury Marauder, 4.6L DOHC, JLT CAI, 4.10 gears, J-mod, custom tune

  16. #56
    GMN Regular DerekTheGreat's Avatar
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    The chains don't actually stretch, the pins holding the links together wear and that is what causes the slop. Nylon wearing down adds even more slop. Looks like she's had a few extended oil change intervals too, along with a life of short trips.
    Last edited by DerekTheGreat; 04-03-2020 at 07:50 AM.
    1985 LTD Crown Victoria - SOLD
    1988 Town Car Signature - Current Party Barge

  17. #57

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    Very happy you decided to tear that down! My chain was just as sloppy when I replaced it .

    Did you have any luck finding a radiator shop to fix the bent outlet fitting? If they canít youíre more than welcome to have my old radiator to use for the side tank (core is plugged up). Its sitting in my garage taking up space and since youíre in Chicagoland getting it to you would be easy.


    Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

  18. #58

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    Yeah, there's a shop down the street from my old high school. I sent an inquiry, and depending on how much overall attention it needs, could have it all fixed up for $85. That includes cleaning and testing for/fixing leaks, too.

    Sent from my VS988 using Tapatalk
    1978 Ford LTD wagon, 351M
    1979 Mercury Marquis, 351W
    1987 Ford F-250 HD 4x4, 460, 4-speed, reg cab full bed
    2003 Mercury Marauder, 4.6L DOHC, JLT CAI, 4.10 gears, J-mod, custom tune

  19. #59

    Default Finally Got the Work Started on the '79

    Glad you found someone. Seems like no one wants to touch radiators anymore. The only guy I could find who was willing to attempt cleaning/fixing mine was all the way up in Woodstock. He quoted me an arm and a leg so I opted for replacement.


    Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

  20. #60
    I'm an air-conditioned gypsy gadget73's Avatar
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    the one time I attempted having a rad fixed the guy told me flat out that with as old as the plastic was, it was probably more likely to have the tank crumble when he put it back together than for the leak to be fixed. Ended up figuring out how to adapt a commonly available radiator. The only reason I was trying to have it fixed was because the original was odd.

    86 Lincoln Town Car (Galactica).
    5.0 HO, CompCams XE258,Scorpion 1.72 roller rockers, 3.55 K code rear, tow package, BHPerformance ported E7 heads, Tmoss Explorer intake, 65mm throttle body, Hedman 1 5/8" headers, 2.5" dual exhaust, ASP underdrive pulley

    91 Lincoln Mark VII LSC SE, triple black (Timewarp) - poly front bushings, KYB struts and shocks, Holley SystemMax1 lower intake, SilverFox AOD valve body,

    1984 Lincoln Continental TurboDiesel - rolls coal

    Quote Originally Posted by phayzer5 View Post
    I drive a Lincoln. I can't be bothered to shift like the peasants and rabble rousers

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