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Thread: Finally Got the Work Started on the '79

  1. #141

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    For now I just want to just get it running, and looking at mostly stock ignition and valve timing. Took a picture of the mechanical advance. For clarity, the weight in the foreground is actually stamped "G1".

    1978 Ford LTD wagon, 351M
    1979 Mercury Marquis, 351W
    1987 Ford F-250 HD 4x4, 460, 4-speed, reg cab full bed
    2003 Mercury Marauder, 4.6L DOHC, JLT CAI, 4.10 gears, J-mod, custom tune

  2. #142
    I'm an air-conditioned gypsy gadget73's Avatar
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    looks like a 10L / 15L plate. That will allow 20 or 30 degrees advance, depending which way. Its currently allowing 30 degrees. If it pings you may need to flip it over.

    86 Lincoln Town Car (Galactica).
    5.0 HO, CompCams XE258,Scorpion 1.72 roller rockers, 3.55 K code rear, tow package, BHPerformance ported E7 heads, Tmoss Explorer intake, 65mm throttle body, Hedman 1 5/8" headers, 2.5" dual exhaust, ASP underdrive pulley

    91 Lincoln Mark VII LSC SE, triple black (Timewarp) - poly front bushings, KYB struts and shocks, Holley SystemMax1 lower intake, SilverFox AOD valve body,

    1984 Lincoln Continental TurboDiesel - rolls coal

    Quote Originally Posted by phayzer5 View Post
    I drive a Lincoln. I can't be bothered to shift like the peasants and rabble rousers

  3. #143

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    Flip it over?

    Also, while it rotates freely, it is a bit noisy. How big of an issue would that be? The original Duraspark III distributor is about the same.
    1978 Ford LTD wagon, 351M
    1979 Mercury Marquis, 351W
    1987 Ford F-250 HD 4x4, 460, 4-speed, reg cab full bed
    2003 Mercury Marauder, 4.6L DOHC, JLT CAI, 4.10 gears, J-mod, custom tune

  4. #144
    I'm an air-conditioned gypsy gadget73's Avatar
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    pics might help some

    http://www.reincarnation-automotive....ons_index.html

    basically in the state it is now, you should be able to pull the clip and slide that plate with the springs up and off the tab that is currently in the 15L slot. If you rotate the plate so the tab is in the 10L slot, it will reduce the amount of mechanical advance available.


    if its noisy I'd be tempted to pull the thing completely apart. Drop the shaft out of it and make sure the oil groove is not clogged and give the area up inside the distributor a good cleaning to make sure it can actually get oil up there. What usually happens with distributors is the little spiral groove on the shaft gets oil sludge caked in and oil stops getting to the top bushing. Once that happens the bushing gets dry and then it starts to wear out. If the shaft is floppy the upper bushing is shot. Never messed with d-spark distributors all that much but if it comes apart anything like a TFI distributor I'd expect the gear comes off and then the shaft just pulls out the top. With TFI distributors I use pick to dig the crud out of the shaft and round brushes with solvent to get up inside. Lube the upper bushing with motor oil before putting it back together. I'd get some oil in the advance mechanism too just to make sure it moves properly.

    86 Lincoln Town Car (Galactica).
    5.0 HO, CompCams XE258,Scorpion 1.72 roller rockers, 3.55 K code rear, tow package, BHPerformance ported E7 heads, Tmoss Explorer intake, 65mm throttle body, Hedman 1 5/8" headers, 2.5" dual exhaust, ASP underdrive pulley

    91 Lincoln Mark VII LSC SE, triple black (Timewarp) - poly front bushings, KYB struts and shocks, Holley SystemMax1 lower intake, SilverFox AOD valve body,

    1984 Lincoln Continental TurboDiesel - rolls coal

    Quote Originally Posted by phayzer5 View Post
    I drive a Lincoln. I can't be bothered to shift like the peasants and rabble rousers

  5. #145

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    Took some work, but I got it apart. The oil grooves definitely look dirty and at minimum partially clogged. Also seems to be a bit of corrosion and/or just deep dirt.



    1978 Ford LTD wagon, 351M
    1979 Mercury Marquis, 351W
    1987 Ford F-250 HD 4x4, 460, 4-speed, reg cab full bed
    2003 Mercury Marauder, 4.6L DOHC, JLT CAI, 4.10 gears, J-mod, custom tune

  6. #146
    fomoco panthers !
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    That shaft needs a good soaking to get all that sludge off.

  7. #147
    I'm an air-conditioned gypsy gadget73's Avatar
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    yeah, deep fried oil sludge. A soak in degreaser and a light polish with Scotchbrite will make it go away. You can see where the bushing at the top rides, the shaft has some slight rub marks.

    Same with the distributor, but watch what you use. Some will dissolve aluminum. I use a lot of Spray Nine at work on gross aluminum parts. If you have any intention of painting it so it looks nice, the Duplicolor Cast Coat Aluminum does a really nice job of making cruddy AL look fresh without it looking obviously painted.

    86 Lincoln Town Car (Galactica).
    5.0 HO, CompCams XE258,Scorpion 1.72 roller rockers, 3.55 K code rear, tow package, BHPerformance ported E7 heads, Tmoss Explorer intake, 65mm throttle body, Hedman 1 5/8" headers, 2.5" dual exhaust, ASP underdrive pulley

    91 Lincoln Mark VII LSC SE, triple black (Timewarp) - poly front bushings, KYB struts and shocks, Holley SystemMax1 lower intake, SilverFox AOD valve body,

    1984 Lincoln Continental TurboDiesel - rolls coal

    Quote Originally Posted by phayzer5 View Post
    I drive a Lincoln. I can't be bothered to shift like the peasants and rabble rousers

  8. #148

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    I have to clean out the dist casing some more, as all the dirt and debris in the photos was released while removing the shaft. Figure I'll just hose it down with some more brake cleaner. Not too worried about appearance right now as I managed to scrub down the exterior pretty well. It's not perfect, but I'm not too worried about that.

    As for the shaft... Is Simple Green safe to soak it in? Figure maybe a 10:1 solution. Also, is it worthwhile to attempt removing the lower plate of the mechanical advance for degreasing? If there's no real need to remove it, I'd rather not spend the effort on it.

    When it comes to swapping from the 15L advance to the 10L, does 12 seem like the ideal initial timing?
    1978 Ford LTD wagon, 351M
    1979 Mercury Marquis, 351W
    1987 Ford F-250 HD 4x4, 460, 4-speed, reg cab full bed
    2003 Mercury Marauder, 4.6L DOHC, JLT CAI, 4.10 gears, J-mod, custom tune

  9. #149
    I'm an air-conditioned gypsy gadget73's Avatar
    Join Date
    Jan 2005
    Posts
    39,643

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    shaft is fine in simple green or really anything else.

    10-15 initial is probably not far off the mark.

    86 Lincoln Town Car (Galactica).
    5.0 HO, CompCams XE258,Scorpion 1.72 roller rockers, 3.55 K code rear, tow package, BHPerformance ported E7 heads, Tmoss Explorer intake, 65mm throttle body, Hedman 1 5/8" headers, 2.5" dual exhaust, ASP underdrive pulley

    91 Lincoln Mark VII LSC SE, triple black (Timewarp) - poly front bushings, KYB struts and shocks, Holley SystemMax1 lower intake, SilverFox AOD valve body,

    1984 Lincoln Continental TurboDiesel - rolls coal

    Quote Originally Posted by phayzer5 View Post
    I drive a Lincoln. I can't be bothered to shift like the peasants and rabble rousers

  10. #150

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    I finally remembered to check in at the radiator shop about the radiator. No one is sure exactly what happened as to why I haven;t gotten any notice about the radiator, but whatever. So, they fixed the out-of-round inlet, but when they pressure tested it, it leaked pretty badly. I'm guessing that's why the cooling system was devoid of fluid when I started disassembly. So it has to be re-cored, and with the cost of copper these days it won't be cheap. They gave a broad estimate between $300-$600, but if asked for a accurate quote they'll get one for me. Thinking I might just have to pull the trigger and have them do it and hope for the best. Definitely don't want to cheap out with some low-cost aftermarket radiator. The last one I bought started leaking after two years of daily driving, maybe two weeks outside of warranty expiration.
    1978 Ford LTD wagon, 351M
    1979 Mercury Marquis, 351W
    1987 Ford F-250 HD 4x4, 460, 4-speed, reg cab full bed
    2003 Mercury Marauder, 4.6L DOHC, JLT CAI, 4.10 gears, J-mod, custom tune

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