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Finally Got the Work Started on the '79

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    #16
    Originally posted by matth825 View Post
    For the stud bolts you値l need to order the mustang kit. It comes with 1 long, 2 medium and 2 short stud bolts. You値l need to order one additional medium length one since the accessory bracket configuration on the panthers is different. I want to say it cost me right around 100 bucks. I had one oddball stud bolt that was 2 7/8 inches long on the 5/16th threaded side but the stud portion wasn稚 being used by an accessory bracket so I just picked up a regular stainless bolt from the hardware store. I think it痴 the 87-91 panthers that need an actual stud bolt in that location.
    Think you could help point me to the correct kits? Totally Stainless has not made it easy to find what you want on their site. No decent filtering or anything. There's another site built like theirs where I bought some new bolts and such for the DOHC in my Marauder, and that layout was pretty painful, too.

    Sent from my VS988 using Tapatalk
    1978 Ford LTD wagon, 351M
    1979 Mercury Marquis, 351W
    1987 Ford F-250 HD 4x4, 460, 4-speed, reg cab full bed
    2003 Mercury Marauder, 4.6L DOHC, JLT CAI, 4.10 gears, J-mod, custom tune

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      #17
      Their website is pretty bad. I have my invoice around here somewhere. I値l dig it up and get you the part numbers. You値l want to give them a call when you place your order...much easier and they have very friendly staff.


      Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

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        #18
        +1 for Advance water pumps. I put one on Ashley's C1500 and it's going great. I put an "AC Delco" from Rock Auto on my truck a month after hers, so far so good on that one too. Only did that because unlike Ashley's, I had time to plan ahead.
        1985 LTD Crown Victoria - SOLD
        1988 Town Car Signature - Current Party Barge

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          #19
          Originally posted by matth825 View Post
          Their website is pretty bad. I have my invoice around here somewhere. I値l dig it up and get you the part numbers. You値l want to give them a call when you place your order...much easier and they have very friendly staff.


          Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
          Thanks for taking a look. And yeah, that site layout is basically torture.

          Sent from my VS988 using Tapatalk
          1978 Ford LTD wagon, 351M
          1979 Mercury Marquis, 351W
          1987 Ford F-250 HD 4x4, 460, 4-speed, reg cab full bed
          2003 Mercury Marauder, 4.6L DOHC, JLT CAI, 4.10 gears, J-mod, custom tune

          Comment


            #20
            Originally posted by DerekTheGreat View Post
            +1 for Advance water pumps. I put one on Ashley's C1500 and it's going great. I put an "AC Delco" from Rock Auto on my truck a month after hers, so far so good on that one too. Only did that because unlike Ashley's, I had time to plan ahead.
            Almosy got to know how good their starters are, but a previous owner of my truck set the advance too far and that 460 trashed a half dozen starters by time I figured out what was happening. Too bad I was too late and now I have to replace the flywheel. Think I'll just focus on the Marquis for now since it doesn't need a transfer case and transmission dropped.

            Sent from my VS988 using Tapatalk
            1978 Ford LTD wagon, 351M
            1979 Mercury Marquis, 351W
            1987 Ford F-250 HD 4x4, 460, 4-speed, reg cab full bed
            2003 Mercury Marauder, 4.6L DOHC, JLT CAI, 4.10 gears, J-mod, custom tune

            Comment


              #21
              Finally Got the Work Started on the '79

              Originally posted by ledzilla View Post
              Thanks for taking a look. And yeah, that site layout is basically torture.

              Sent from my VS988 using Tapatalk
              Sure thing. The kit is for a 1985 mustang. It is part number 6-9030. The part number for the extra medium length stud bolt is 2-7035.

              How many stud bolts where used on your pump? I looked at the pictures again and it looks like yours had 4 with the rest being regular bolts.

              Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
              Last edited by matth825; 03-12-2020, 11:05 PM.

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                #22
                Yeah, I think that's right, four studs. I need to make it back out to the garage to verify. I was just out there and forgot to look. However, it looks like I can't find part #2-7035. Nothing comes up for it on their site. The other set does, though.

                Sent from my VS988 using Tapatalk
                1978 Ford LTD wagon, 351M
                1979 Mercury Marquis, 351W
                1987 Ford F-250 HD 4x4, 460, 4-speed, reg cab full bed
                2003 Mercury Marauder, 4.6L DOHC, JLT CAI, 4.10 gears, J-mod, custom tune

                Comment


                  #23
                  Finally Got the Work Started on the '79

                  Originally posted by ledzilla View Post
                  Yeah, I think that's right, four studs. I need to make it back out to the garage to verify. I was just out there and forgot to look. However, it looks like I can't find part #2-7035. Nothing comes up for it on their site. The other set does, though.

                  Sent from my VS988 using Tapatalk
                  I think the 2-7035 was a special part number they created for the extra stud bolt. It痴 normally not sold by itself. You値l have to call them to order that one but you may not need it. Since you only have 4 studs I think you need 2 short , 1 medium and 1 long. The kit will have all of those. My accessory bracket configuration on my 85 is different. I needed 2 shorts, 3 mediums and 1 long.


                  Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
                  Last edited by matth825; 03-16-2020, 02:45 PM.

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                    #24
                    '79 studs are probably going to be different than 80+. AC compressor was different, and I don't know what that does to the mounting.
                    86 Lincoln Town Car (Galactica).
                    5.0 HO, CompCams XE258,Scorpion 1.72 roller rockers, 3.55 K code rear, tow package, BHPerformance ported E7 heads, Tmoss Explorer intake, 65mm throttle body, Hedman 1 5/8" headers, 2.5" dual exhaust, ASP underdrive pulley

                    91 Lincoln Mark VII LSC grandpa spec white and cranberry

                    1984 Lincoln Continental TurboDiesel - rolls coal

                    Originally posted by phayzer5
                    I drive a Lincoln. I can't be bothered to shift like the peasants and rabble rousers

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                      #25
                      Went and took a photo of the studs and bolts (including the sheared stud), figured that ought to clear things up a bit.

                      Sent from my VS988 using Tapatalk
                      1978 Ford LTD wagon, 351M
                      1979 Mercury Marquis, 351W
                      1987 Ford F-250 HD 4x4, 460, 4-speed, reg cab full bed
                      2003 Mercury Marauder, 4.6L DOHC, JLT CAI, 4.10 gears, J-mod, custom tune

                      Comment


                        #26
                        bolts that go into water passages suck
                        86 Lincoln Town Car (Galactica).
                        5.0 HO, CompCams XE258,Scorpion 1.72 roller rockers, 3.55 K code rear, tow package, BHPerformance ported E7 heads, Tmoss Explorer intake, 65mm throttle body, Hedman 1 5/8" headers, 2.5" dual exhaust, ASP underdrive pulley

                        91 Lincoln Mark VII LSC grandpa spec white and cranberry

                        1984 Lincoln Continental TurboDiesel - rolls coal

                        Originally posted by phayzer5
                        I drive a Lincoln. I can't be bothered to shift like the peasants and rabble rousers

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                          #27
                          Either way, I have some crusty studs. And I think that I should also replace the long alternator bolt, too. It's a little crusty and was a monster to extract. Still need to test the alternator and check to see if the bolt was having trouble in the alternator casing or the mounting bracket. I think the alternator is 100A, but not completely sure. Kind of going on comparing it's layout to photos of alternators for sale.

                          Sent from my VS988 using Tapatalk
                          1978 Ford LTD wagon, 351M
                          1979 Mercury Marquis, 351W
                          1987 Ford F-250 HD 4x4, 460, 4-speed, reg cab full bed
                          2003 Mercury Marauder, 4.6L DOHC, JLT CAI, 4.10 gears, J-mod, custom tune

                          Comment


                            #28
                            Finally Got the Work Started on the '79

                            Originally posted by gadget73 View Post
                            bolts that go into water passages suck
                            Bigtime! The stainless studs were expensive but I値l have a smile on my face if I have to take my timing cover off again. I created many new vulgar words fighting with mine the first time.

                            Thanks for posting that picture too. Makes sense the studs would be difference since gadget said 79s used a different AC compressor.


                            Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

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                              #29
                              Crusty case ground is a decent bet. I had some alternator whine problems on the Continental and it completely stopped when I pulled the alternator and ran the gasket grinder on the bracket and the alternator case where it touches.

                              FWIW, I thought that was a 100a too, but stamped right into the case it says 70a. Looks absolutely identical to the 100 amp I have on the shelf as a spare, so thats what will go on should the 70a barf.
                              86 Lincoln Town Car (Galactica).
                              5.0 HO, CompCams XE258,Scorpion 1.72 roller rockers, 3.55 K code rear, tow package, BHPerformance ported E7 heads, Tmoss Explorer intake, 65mm throttle body, Hedman 1 5/8" headers, 2.5" dual exhaust, ASP underdrive pulley

                              91 Lincoln Mark VII LSC grandpa spec white and cranberry

                              1984 Lincoln Continental TurboDiesel - rolls coal

                              Originally posted by phayzer5
                              I drive a Lincoln. I can't be bothered to shift like the peasants and rabble rousers

                              Comment


                                #30
                                I did a test fit of the bolt with the alternator... Yeah, I can't get it back into the long case mount at all. I'm guessing that I'd probably need to run something into the bolt hole to clean it out, and gte a new bolt, cover it with anti-seize before installing it to prevent this from happening again. I was also thinking maybe part # 6-0829 from Totally Stainless might be a better option, just get a whole slew of fresh bolts. I'll probably just call them and ask what would be best for my application, though.

                                I don't think that I can re-use the dist, though. I pulled it out, gave it a lookover... It's making some ugly noises inside when I spin the shaft. Plus, it has no wiring connections somehow. No wires, no plugs, no vacuum ports... Not sure how that thing adjusted ignition timing. So, yeah, have to replace that dist, since I can't make it work without the ECM, it seems. And I don't think it has mush service life left to it, anyway. It might have gotten corroded somewhere internally. Haven't taken the cap off yet, I don't think I really want to know. The plug wires are interesting, though. I'm fairly certain that they're factory original wires. They're numbered for the cylinder and are dated 1979 on them. Figure I'll take a picture once I have them fully removed and cleaned up. A couple are damaged by mice, especially the wire for cylinder #1, if memory serves correctly. I think it's chewed completely through the insulation.

                                I did a test fit of the new 2150 carb, and aside form the fuel connection it looks like it's going to fit just fine. I'm waiting until after I have the timing set redone, with the cover and water pump back on before I really check out the fuel connection, because I'll need to reconnect the hard line to the pump so I know exactly where it lies, and I don't want to deal with that until after replacing the timing chain and gears. It has a weird bend in it for where the original 7200 connects. I'm not really sure how much of the original carb can be salvaged. It looks pretty nasty. I bet someone who knows what they're doing can restore it to full functionality. I wonder if after I pull the wiring harness, if I bundled up all of the parts I removed with the carb if someone in Cali could make use of the whole thing, even with the handful of chewed wires. Seems like they could be easily repaired by someone willing, which I am not since all of the damaged wires are for the stuff I removed permanently.

                                I think I'm going to keep the hot air diverter for now. The vacuum motor on the air cleaner snorkel still works, unlike on my LTD, and figure that would probably be nice to keep for cold day starts. And, also unlike my LTD, the bi-metal switch in the air cleaner is still there and so far seems to work. I'll just replace all of the vacuum hoses for it and reconnect it to the intake manifold vacuum ports at the rear. I'm thinking I'll get the air cleaner cleaned up, and maybe painted. I found some paint that will make it look like it's anodized aluminum. Figure it can't hurt too much to try it out. Give it a shiny blue look. Speaking of blue... Trying to decide on what to do with the valve covers. They're not looking so hot. Not sure if I should just get new covers, or take the original covers out to be sandblasted and powder coated. I think if I were to replace them, I'd need to finish removing some of the emissions stuff. The EGR tube runs over the passenger side valve cover. I'd just take that whole thing out, but it seems to help with warming the engine more quickly, and I have no idea what I'd use the block off the port in the exhaust manifold. In the meantime, though, I have the air pump and most of the related ducting removed. Have to remove it anyway just so that access to the passenger side spark plugs can be granted. The check valves are still there, and like the EGR tube, need to know what to use to plug their ports so that they can be removed entirely. All of the other electronics have been removed, so there are just some plugs hanging around now.

                                It's pretty well cleared up under the hood now. I suppose when the water pump, fan, and radiator go back in it won't look so open, though. Need to contact a shop about repairing the radiator, though. It has a damaged inlet, bent out of round, and I'd like to get it refreshed, looking nice, and any potential leaks patched. Don't want to deal with some sorry ass garbage aftermarket radiator unless it's a high quality radiator meant for more than what I intend to through at that engine. The only aftermarket radiator I've ever bought had a two year warranty and sprung a bad leak three weeks after the warranty expired. Not doing that again. All told that fiasco cost me over $500 to resolve, and no repair shops were even invovled.

                                So, at this point, waiting for my tax refund, then buying some more parts, and then putting things back together. After I finish some extra cleanup under the hood. I think for now I'll leave the original wiring harness and just work around it until either I find an alternate OEM harness, or I just make something myself. I'm just glad that I can see the progress I'm making. Also planning to make a run to local junkyards to make a complete set of turbine style wheels with Merc center caps to replace the 14" steelies currently mounted. I haven't had a chance to go when it hasn't been sloppy wet outside.
                                1978 Ford LTD wagon, 351M
                                1979 Mercury Marquis, 351W
                                1987 Ford F-250 HD 4x4, 460, 4-speed, reg cab full bed
                                2003 Mercury Marauder, 4.6L DOHC, JLT CAI, 4.10 gears, J-mod, custom tune

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