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Finally Got the Work Started on the '79

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    #61
    Finally Got the Work Started on the '79

    Originally posted by gadget73 View Post
    the one time I attempted having a rad fixed the guy told me flat out that with as old as the plastic was, it was probably more likely to have the tank crumble when he put it back together than for the leak to be fixed. Ended up figuring out how to adapt a commonly available radiator. The only reason I was trying to have it fixed was because the original was odd.
    New ones are so cheap too that it’s only worth it you can’t make another one fit or want to keep a car all original. I wanted to keep my Vic original but my mind quickly changed when I got the price on a recore. My jaw hit the floor. I got a decent plastic/aluminum one from rock auto for $100 to get it running until summer was over. I just ordered an all aluminum champion unit from radiator express for a permanent fix for $205 shipped. A recore was $450 for the original!!! I spent less and have a spare rad


    Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
    Last edited by matth825; 04-03-2020, 07:34 PM.

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      #62
      I was less concerned about originality as just not having to dick about with things that don't fit. Guy at the rad shop had a catalog and having the original in front of him we were able to match something up. It has a fill cap, the original did not. Basically I modified a radiator cap so it didn't hold pressure and used the overflow connection to feed out to the expansion tank. The whole thing was around 200 bucks and the all aluminum radiator I got probably cools better than the original brass one did. No gaskets or plastic either, all welded tanks.
      86 Lincoln Town Car (Galactica).
      5.0 HO, CompCams XE258,Scorpion 1.72 roller rockers, 3.55 K code rear, tow package, BHPerformance ported E7 heads, Tmoss Explorer intake, 65mm throttle body, Hedman 1 5/8" headers, 2.5" dual exhaust, ASP underdrive pulley

      91 Lincoln Mark VII LSC grandpa spec white and cranberry

      1984 Lincoln Continental TurboDiesel - rolls coal

      Originally posted by phayzer5
      I drive a Lincoln. I can't be bothered to shift like the peasants and rabble rousers

      Comment


        #63
        I used an all-aluminum radiator that was designed for a 351w model 79-85 panther in the Mark VI. Just had to change the upper hose since the 351 models have a smaller top hose on the radiator. Engine side is the same.

        Only two things are infinite, the universe and human stupidity, and I'm not sure about the former. -- Albert Einstein
        rides: 93 Crown Vic LX (The Red Velvet Cake), 2000 Crown Vic base model (Sandy), 2003 Expedition (the vacation beast)
        Originally posted by gadget73
        ... and it should all work like magic and unicorns and stuff.
        Originally posted by dmccaig
        Overhead, some poor bastards are flying in airplanes.

        Comment


          #64
          Lucky for me, this one is all metal. So that's nice. As for aftermarket replacments, I haven't had great luck with those. I had one in my Buick. It sprung a leak three weeks outside of its 2-year warranty, and did a terrible job cooling the transmission.

          Sent from my VS988 using Tapatalk
          1978 Ford LTD wagon, 351M
          1979 Mercury Marquis, 351W
          1987 Ford F-250 HD 4x4, 460, 4-speed, reg cab full bed
          2003 Mercury Marauder, 4.6L DOHC, JLT CAI, 4.10 gears, J-mod, custom tune

          Comment


            #65
            some of them are shit. Sometimes its grounding problems that eat them. Voltage checks from ground to the coolant will often turn up answers there.
            86 Lincoln Town Car (Galactica).
            5.0 HO, CompCams XE258,Scorpion 1.72 roller rockers, 3.55 K code rear, tow package, BHPerformance ported E7 heads, Tmoss Explorer intake, 65mm throttle body, Hedman 1 5/8" headers, 2.5" dual exhaust, ASP underdrive pulley

            91 Lincoln Mark VII LSC grandpa spec white and cranberry

            1984 Lincoln Continental TurboDiesel - rolls coal

            Originally posted by phayzer5
            I drive a Lincoln. I can't be bothered to shift like the peasants and rabble rousers

            Comment


              #66
              I've taken a break from wrenching to have a seat outside and do some polishing. Busting out the NEVR-DULL, and a lot of elbow grease.

              At first I just took care of the outer edge of the grill.



              Then I did some bumper and the inner section of the grill passenger side.



              Eventually I think I'll need to have this all done professionally. For now, feeling happy that it's looking shinier.
              1978 Ford LTD wagon, 351M
              1979 Mercury Marquis, 351W
              1987 Ford F-250 HD 4x4, 460, 4-speed, reg cab full bed
              2003 Mercury Marauder, 4.6L DOHC, JLT CAI, 4.10 gears, J-mod, custom tune

              Comment


                #67
                Oh yeah. Makes a difference.

                I am always a bit leery on polishing coated plastics....like the grille...at least on my CV the grille is a plastic which is coated. Yours came out fantastic though. My fear is polishing through the coating.
                ~David~

                My 1987 Crown Victoria Coupe: The Brown Blob
                My 2004 Mercedes Benz E320:The Benz

                Originally posted by ootdega
                My life is a long series of "nevermind" and "I guess not."

                Originally posted by DerekTheGreat
                But, that's just coming from me, this site's biggest pessimist. Best of luck

                Originally posted by gadget73
                my car starts and it has AC. Yours doesn't start and it has no AC. Seems obvious to me.




                Comment


                  #68
                  It doesn't feel like plastic. It feels like cast aluminum. And it's definitely corroded aluminum I'm polishing off of the grill snd trim. It's just like cleaning off the air filter assembly of my LTD wagon.

                  Sent from my VS988 using Tapatalk
                  1978 Ford LTD wagon, 351M
                  1979 Mercury Marquis, 351W
                  1987 Ford F-250 HD 4x4, 460, 4-speed, reg cab full bed
                  2003 Mercury Marauder, 4.6L DOHC, JLT CAI, 4.10 gears, J-mod, custom tune

                  Comment


                    #69
                    That "neverdull" is good stuff. It works good on the plastichrome if you don't put too much pressure on it. I used allot of it in my careers. Got to keep the things shiny. I did one of those 79-82 grilles before I packed it away. It turned out really well.

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                      #70
                      On another note, when I get the carb all hooked up, what ports am I using for vacuum advance and the EGR? I can't use the original connections given that they all tapped into various vacuum control modules, and the ignition advance was 100% electronically controlled.

                      I have two 1/4" ports in the manifold in front of the carb that tap into the bores, one is being used by the PCV. So, I can just cap off the large port on the back of the carb. Still have the other usual 2150 ports.

                      Sent from my VS988 using Tapatalk
                      1978 Ford LTD wagon, 351M
                      1979 Mercury Marquis, 351W
                      1987 Ford F-250 HD 4x4, 460, 4-speed, reg cab full bed
                      2003 Mercury Marauder, 4.6L DOHC, JLT CAI, 4.10 gears, J-mod, custom tune

                      Comment


                        #71
                        EGR needs ported vacuum. I think they usually run through a thermal vacuum switch to keep it off until the engine reaches a certain temperature. They are color codes but I don’t know the codes. IIRC my 82 had a blue or green one.

                        I run my vacuum advance to ported as well. That’s with a stock distributor. I would do whatever makes it run better in your case.
                        1990 Country Squire - weekend cruiser, next project
                        1988 Crown Vic LTD Wagon - waiting in the wings

                        GMN Box Panther History
                        Box Panther Horsepower and Torque Ratings
                        Box Panther Production Numbers

                        Comment


                          #72
                          Originally posted by Tiggie View Post
                          EGR needs ported vacuum. I think they usually run through a thermal vacuum switch to keep it off until the engine reaches a certain temperature. They are color codes but I don’t know the codes. IIRC my 82 had a blue or green one.

                          I run my vacuum advance to ported as well. That’s with a stock distributor. I would do whatever makes it run better in your case.
                          EGR will definitely need a thermal vacuum switch as Tiggie says. The signal comes from the vacuum port on the front driver side on the carb under where the accelerator pump is.

                          I was discussing pre ECM emissions stuff with gadget and arquemann in another thread and the general consensus is don’t bother if your car is emissions exempt.

                          One thing I would do is use a thermal vacuum switch on the vacuum advance to the distributor. It screws into the top of the thermostat housing. When the coolant temp gets too high it disconnects the ported vacuum signal and connects manifold vacuum. This kicks up engine idle speed to get more air flowing through the radiator.


                          Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

                          Comment


                            #73
                            Well, I don't have a useful diagram to assemble the vacuum circuits. All that I have seen incorporate components that I can't identify. I can't even use my LTD as a baseline since the vacuum circuits in that weren't entirely correct. I'm not even certain that it has the correct vacuum switches.

                            Is there a nice, simplified diagram for the vacuum advance and EGR that I could use to build out the circuits? I know that they're supposed to include a vacuum resistor and a check valve, too, but not sure where in the circuit they go.

                            Also don't even know which color vacuum switches are needed. I can't trust what's in the LTD, and the Marquis doesn't have any. It was using sensors and vacuum solenoids. And while all non-OBDII vehicles in my state are emissions exempt, I'd still prefer to be able to utilize the EGR. At least until it gets an aftermarket manifold and 4bbl.

                            Sent from my VS988 using Tapatalk
                            1978 Ford LTD wagon, 351M
                            1979 Mercury Marquis, 351W
                            1987 Ford F-250 HD 4x4, 460, 4-speed, reg cab full bed
                            2003 Mercury Marauder, 4.6L DOHC, JLT CAI, 4.10 gears, J-mod, custom tune

                            Comment


                              #74
                              Canadian Ford and Mercury through 1985 were 2bbl without a computer. One of those diagrams ought to do it. This is the only thing I can come up with in my 84 emissions diag manual. Maybe its enough?Click image for larger version

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                              86 Lincoln Town Car (Galactica).
                              5.0 HO, CompCams XE258,Scorpion 1.72 roller rockers, 3.55 K code rear, tow package, BHPerformance ported E7 heads, Tmoss Explorer intake, 65mm throttle body, Hedman 1 5/8" headers, 2.5" dual exhaust, ASP underdrive pulley

                              91 Lincoln Mark VII LSC grandpa spec white and cranberry

                              1984 Lincoln Continental TurboDiesel - rolls coal

                              Originally posted by phayzer5
                              I drive a Lincoln. I can't be bothered to shift like the peasants and rabble rousers

                              Comment


                                #75
                                Ok, so I think this is all starting to make sense now. Thank you. I attached some photos out of a Chilton manual. If you take your diagram, and combine it in with these bits out of the manual, it all comes together. If I'm conceptualizing this all correctly, I think this is how it's laid out...

                                > A vacuum hose connects from the EGR port on the carb, to a check valve, and then to a T junction
                                > From the T junction, a hose connects to a BLUE ported vacuum switch, and another connects to the spark advance circuit at another T junction
                                > A vacuum hose connects from the spark advance port on the carb to a spark delay valve, and then to the second T junction mentioned above
                                > The second T junction then connects to the distributor advance
                                > After the BLUE ported vacuum switch, a vacuum hose connects to a T junction, from there one hose connects to the EGR and the other to the transmission

                                Does this seem logical and correct based on all three pieces of information we have collected?

                                ** inline photos deleted and attached in full resolution in next thread post **
                                Last edited by ledzilla; 04-09-2020, 09:00 PM. Reason: attachment readability suffered, inline attachment removed
                                1978 Ford LTD wagon, 351M
                                1979 Mercury Marquis, 351W
                                1987 Ford F-250 HD 4x4, 460, 4-speed, reg cab full bed
                                2003 Mercury Marauder, 4.6L DOHC, JLT CAI, 4.10 gears, J-mod, custom tune

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