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Thread: Finally Got the Work Started on the '79

  1. #121

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    That may be likely, but I'm not using a Ford balancer. It's aftermarket, and it needs a spacer to get the pulley into correct alignment with the other accessories.

    Sent from my VS988 using Tapatalk
    1978 Ford LTD wagon, 351M
    1979 Mercury Marquis, 351W
    1987 Ford F-250 HD 4x4, 460, 4-speed, reg cab full bed
    2003 Mercury Marauder, 4.6L DOHC, JLT CAI, 4.10 gears, J-mod, custom tune

  2. #122
    The Brown Blob 87gtVIC's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by gadget73 View Post
    I thought Ford used basically the same balancer on everything from the late 60s through the 90s on the 351, or at least the spacing between the pulley flange and the front of the crank was the same.
    My father recently picked up a blueprint engine to put into is 1985 mustang. The balancer needed to be replaced as the one provided put the crank pulley no where close to where it needed to be.
    ~David~

    My 1987 Crown Victoria Coupe: The Brown Blob
    My 2004 Mercedes Benz E320:The Benz

    Quote Originally Posted by DerekTheGreat View Post
    But, that's just coming from me, this site's biggest pessimist. Best of luck

  3. #123
    I'm an air-conditioned gypsy gadget73's Avatar
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    just makes me wonder what was on it. The master parts manual shows the same balancer used from 84-89 (my manual covers only 80-89) on the 5.0 Mustang. Same one used on every other 5.0 application for the same year range. So far as I know the basic dimensions were the same back to the 60s. The 93 Tbird and SN95 cars got a very different balancer though, that one would have had the pullies much closer to the front of the engine. Very similar to the Explorer actually.

    So far as the 351 goes,
    80-81 w/ EEC E0AZ-6316-A
    80 exc H/O exc EEC, before 9/17/79 E0AZ-6316-C
    80/81 Exc H/O, Exc EEC from 9/17/79 D2AZ-6316A
    82-89 E4TZ-6316-B


    Interesting that later production '80 models got a 1972 balancer but early ones got a 1980 part. Wonder wtf a 79 got.

    86 Lincoln Town Car (Galactica).
    5.0 HO, CompCams XE258,Scorpion 1.72 roller rockers, 3.55 K code rear, tow package, BHPerformance ported E7 heads, Tmoss Explorer intake, 65mm throttle body, Hedman 1 5/8" headers, 2.5" dual exhaust, ASP underdrive pulley

    91 Lincoln Mark VII LSC SE, triple black (Timewarp) - poly front bushings, KYB struts and shocks, Holley SystemMax1 lower intake, SilverFox AOD valve body,

    1984 Lincoln Continental TurboDiesel - rolls coal

    Quote Originally Posted by phayzer5 View Post
    I drive a Lincoln. I can't be bothered to shift like the peasants and rabble rousers

  4. #124

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    If I can see a paet number on it, I'll share it. But it might be different from normal because it has a ring on it for the EEC crank sensor.

    Sent from my VS988 using Tapatalk
    1978 Ford LTD wagon, 351M
    1979 Mercury Marquis, 351W
    1987 Ford F-250 HD 4x4, 460, 4-speed, reg cab full bed
    2003 Mercury Marauder, 4.6L DOHC, JLT CAI, 4.10 gears, J-mod, custom tune

  5. #125
    Fastest Box In South Jersey 86VickyLX's Avatar
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    I had that balancer when I built the engine for Vicky. It ran the engine on the engine dyno at school, but I didn't go further with it because it didn't come with any spacers and I was dealing with other issues with the engine install (intake and valve cover clearances etc). So that got ripped off and thrown in a box. Years later, I ended up giving the stupid thing to Phil, as he was using it on the Maverick. It is some aftermarket POS that has about 12 holes in the front of it, and 3 different sets of timing marks, and you need a spacer to make the crank pulley fit right. I'm not sure what balancer I have on the 351w. It's a factory style with degree marks at every 90 degrees to tell you where it is in crank rotation, plus

  6. #126

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    Ok, so there aren't any useful numbers on the factory balancer. However, when I was looking back at the description for new balancer, I found that it was designed to match the SBF balancers from '63 - '69, and offering a small variety of spacers to help match the depth of original balancers for later model years on those engines. So, all in all, nothing really special here. But I am finding that I need to determine screws for holding the spacer to the balancer. I sent off an email to the manufacturer since the spacer didn't come with any mounting screws, see if they hav any that they can provide or at least inform me of the correct screws to use.

    In the meantime I really need to make some time to get the timing cover gasket surface cleaned and to remove the EEC wiring as best as possible. As seems to be typical, my available free time started disappearing once the weather warmed up.
    1978 Ford LTD wagon, 351M
    1979 Mercury Marquis, 351W
    1987 Ford F-250 HD 4x4, 460, 4-speed, reg cab full bed
    2003 Mercury Marauder, 4.6L DOHC, JLT CAI, 4.10 gears, J-mod, custom tune

  7. #127

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    Took a photo comparing the original balancer to the new aftermarket balancer. Meant to post it a while ago.



    Sent from my VS988 using Tapatalk
    1978 Ford LTD wagon, 351M
    1979 Mercury Marquis, 351W
    1987 Ford F-250 HD 4x4, 460, 4-speed, reg cab full bed
    2003 Mercury Marauder, 4.6L DOHC, JLT CAI, 4.10 gears, J-mod, custom tune

  8. #128

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    Also, today I got my first batch of new bolts from Totally Stainless. I still need to go out and get measurements on some studs and a couple other bolts. They wanted the measurements just in case anything differed from their typical stock since their focus for 302/351 engines was based on Mustang layouts. Hoping I can get that done this weekend. Have some time off coming up, so with any luck I'll be able to allocate some of it to finally cleaning the gasket surfaces for the timing cover.

    Sent from my VS988 using Tapatalk
    1978 Ford LTD wagon, 351M
    1979 Mercury Marquis, 351W
    1987 Ford F-250 HD 4x4, 460, 4-speed, reg cab full bed
    2003 Mercury Marauder, 4.6L DOHC, JLT CAI, 4.10 gears, J-mod, custom tune

  9. #129

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    I have some new valve covers and gaskets on order. I discovered that some of the bolts were loose, so I was going to need to replace the gasket anyway. Figured while I'm at it I ought to find some nice covers. Found a pair of restored covers on eBay for about $40. I liked them better than anything I found on either of Summit or Jegs. At least in terms of how they fit with the feel of a Marquis. I have the stud measurements done, so I figure when I send Totally Stainless those measurements, I'll order some new valve cover bolts, too.

    I think getting the passenger side cover off will be a challenge, though. I have the exhaust tube for the EGR passing over it quite closely. I have no reason to believe that I can remove the valve cover with this tube in place, and I'm fairly certain that if I can get it out, it likely won't want to go back in. At least the driver side is free from obstruction. I'm also certain that I'll have to unbolt the AC compressor from its mounts and tilt it out of the way. I don't think there ought to be much trouble with unbolting the tube from the EGR. Might need to sprst some WD-40 on both nut/bolt pair. But the kicker will be sealing off the exhaust manifold where the tube mounts. Not sure what would be required for that.

    Sent from my VS988 using Tapatalk
    1978 Ford LTD wagon, 351M
    1979 Mercury Marquis, 351W
    1987 Ford F-250 HD 4x4, 460, 4-speed, reg cab full bed
    2003 Mercury Marauder, 4.6L DOHC, JLT CAI, 4.10 gears, J-mod, custom tune

  10. #130
    I'm an air-conditioned gypsy gadget73's Avatar
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    cork cover gaskets shrink and it makes it seem like the bolts are loose. Tightening them usually just crushes the petrified cork gasket and makes them vomit oil. Also usually distorts the cover so it never seals properly. Big fan of thick aluminum covers and rubber gaskets. Screw those thin stamped steel things. Boring as they are, the EFI lopo steel valve covers are actually quite good from a durability and sealing perspective. Nice thick flanges. Fel Pro Permadry gaskets are the ticket for non-leaky valve covers on a Ford.

    is it the EGR tube or thermactor? Was always under the impression EGR passages were internal but your car has stuff I've never seen before.

    86 Lincoln Town Car (Galactica).
    5.0 HO, CompCams XE258,Scorpion 1.72 roller rockers, 3.55 K code rear, tow package, BHPerformance ported E7 heads, Tmoss Explorer intake, 65mm throttle body, Hedman 1 5/8" headers, 2.5" dual exhaust, ASP underdrive pulley

    91 Lincoln Mark VII LSC SE, triple black (Timewarp) - poly front bushings, KYB struts and shocks, Holley SystemMax1 lower intake, SilverFox AOD valve body,

    1984 Lincoln Continental TurboDiesel - rolls coal

    Quote Originally Posted by phayzer5 View Post
    I drive a Lincoln. I can't be bothered to shift like the peasants and rabble rousers

  11. #131

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    Yeah, I ordered the FelPro PermaDry gaskets. Staying as far away from cork gaskets as I can. For now I wanted a simple OEM look under the hood, and these fit the bill. They're actual Ford covers, and almost the same as what's there, but with nice fresh paint (on no weird brackets welded on). Eventually I'll be doing upgrades to the motor, so I guess we'll see what's available that strikes my fancy then. Planning to either get a FiTech (or similar) setup or multiport fuel injection system, see what looks good with whatever system I go with.

    And it's definitely the EGR. The air injector parts are on the same side, but I removed all of that already except for the check valves mounted in place. My wagon has the 351M, and that definitely has the exhaust passages within the heads that pass into the intake manifold. This 351W has a EGR valve mount directly on the manifold right behind the carb, with a tube running from the valve, over the valve cover, and then down under the AC compressor and to the front of the exhaust manifold.

    I was showing this all to some others and they were thinking it was the air injection instead of the EGR, as well. However, they did guide me to finding plugs for the tube ports. This ought to be handy because I'm also wanting to pull the air injection check valve from my wagon and plug its port in the manifold. The damned thing has started to crumble, and the air pump was already a lost cause when I bought that car four years ago. So, figure if I can get that EGR tube out, I can plug the port, and maybe I can get both air injection check valves pulled from it, too, and plug those ports. The only use for that tube now is as a preheater for the coolant as it passes to the heater core since I can't find a replacement EGR valve (ran a search for the part number, nothing came up, but I can find a replacement for the sensor on it without any trouble).

    Sent from my VS988 using Tapatalk
    Last edited by ledzilla; 06-26-2020 at 05:52 PM.
    1978 Ford LTD wagon, 351M
    1979 Mercury Marquis, 351W
    1987 Ford F-250 HD 4x4, 460, 4-speed, reg cab full bed
    2003 Mercury Marauder, 4.6L DOHC, JLT CAI, 4.10 gears, J-mod, custom tune

  12. #132

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    Got the value covers and some breathers. Not sure which breathers I want to use, but I can use the others on one, maybe two, of my other cars.

    Last edited by ledzilla; 07-06-2020 at 03:33 AM.
    1978 Ford LTD wagon, 351M
    1979 Mercury Marquis, 351W
    1987 Ford F-250 HD 4x4, 460, 4-speed, reg cab full bed
    2003 Mercury Marauder, 4.6L DOHC, JLT CAI, 4.10 gears, J-mod, custom tune

  13. #133

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    It put the same photo twice, how odd... Added the other photo here.

    1978 Ford LTD wagon, 351M
    1979 Mercury Marquis, 351W
    1987 Ford F-250 HD 4x4, 460, 4-speed, reg cab full bed
    2003 Mercury Marauder, 4.6L DOHC, JLT CAI, 4.10 gears, J-mod, custom tune

  14. #134

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    Ok, the way the original setup is configured, there's no choke heater tube for the carburetor. It seems like it was a completely electric choke heating setup. The replacement carburetor, though, has a port for the choke heater. Should I just block off that port and swap electric choke heating caps? Or would it be best to try to hook something up?

    Sent from my SM-G986U using Tapatalk
    1978 Ford LTD wagon, 351M
    1979 Mercury Marquis, 351W
    1987 Ford F-250 HD 4x4, 460, 4-speed, reg cab full bed
    2003 Mercury Marauder, 4.6L DOHC, JLT CAI, 4.10 gears, J-mod, custom tune

  15. #135
    Wagon Addicted Tiggie's Avatar
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    I’d go electric. Never liked those choke heater setups.

  16. #136

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    Looks like I could get a heater tube in there if I found the right parts, based on this manifold plate. But yeah, I'd rather not deal with it. Supposedly for handling opening the choke the combo setup is reportedly the best, with full electric being the worst, but I don't know how true that is.

    So that leaves me wondering what to do about the electric choke heater. I agree that it's likely best to just do electric. But I can't help but to wonder if the heater for a combo setup is sufficient, or if I ought to get a heater for a full electric setup like what's on the factory VV 7200. It looks like they're a direct swap in terms of fitment and connections.

    1978 Ford LTD wagon, 351M
    1979 Mercury Marquis, 351W
    1987 Ford F-250 HD 4x4, 460, 4-speed, reg cab full bed
    2003 Mercury Marauder, 4.6L DOHC, JLT CAI, 4.10 gears, J-mod, custom tune

  17. #137
    I'm an air-conditioned gypsy gadget73's Avatar
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    If that plate comes off and its not blocked up, the heat choke would probably drop right in there.

    I'd expect the one meant to work with the manifold heat choke would not heat up as much as the all-electric one. Choke would probably tend to stay shut too long.

    86 Lincoln Town Car (Galactica).
    5.0 HO, CompCams XE258,Scorpion 1.72 roller rockers, 3.55 K code rear, tow package, BHPerformance ported E7 heads, Tmoss Explorer intake, 65mm throttle body, Hedman 1 5/8" headers, 2.5" dual exhaust, ASP underdrive pulley

    91 Lincoln Mark VII LSC SE, triple black (Timewarp) - poly front bushings, KYB struts and shocks, Holley SystemMax1 lower intake, SilverFox AOD valve body,

    1984 Lincoln Continental TurboDiesel - rolls coal

    Quote Originally Posted by phayzer5 View Post
    I drive a Lincoln. I can't be bothered to shift like the peasants and rabble rousers

  18. #138

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    Quote Originally Posted by gadget73 View Post
    If that plate comes off and its not blocked up, the heat choke would probably drop right in there.

    I'd expect the one meant to work with the manifold heat choke would not heat up as much as the all-electric one. Choke would probably tend to stay shut too long.
    That's what I was thinking, but it's been difficult to determine where to find an electric choke heater for a full electric system. I've been curious if the heater for the carb on my '87 F250 would fit on the 2150. I think it's full electric as I've pulled the carb without having to deal with a heater pipe. I'm also in a position to deal with this on my '78 LTD, too, as I recently had cause to remove the carb and the heater pipe snapped while trying to disconnect from the choke housing on the carb. Need to get myself over to the hardware store, too, so I can find a cap nut and a small spacer to use to black off the port on the choke housing to prevent a vacuum leak. Figure I'd use some thread tape while I was at it to help make sure there's no leak.
    1978 Ford LTD wagon, 351M
    1979 Mercury Marquis, 351W
    1987 Ford F-250 HD 4x4, 460, 4-speed, reg cab full bed
    2003 Mercury Marauder, 4.6L DOHC, JLT CAI, 4.10 gears, J-mod, custom tune

  19. #139

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    Ok, so lately I've been working on rebuilding a Duraspark II distributor I had procured. I have a new cap and rotor, new vacuum advance, new pickup coil and reluctor, and new mounting o-ring. I finally managed to remove the old reluctor (couldn't pry it out so I used a chisel to break it apart, didn't lose the pin either), and remove a stuck screw holding down the cover plate for the mechanical advance. I've scrubbed down the outside of the case, I've cleaned off the mechanical advance cover plate, and I've gotten a bit of cleaning done around the mechanical advance. I did a quick check of the mechanical advance. The weights move freely and the springs don't appear to have lost any tension, so it appears to still be in decent shape.

    I'm thinking that I ought to replace the internal screws that held the mechanical advance cover place and pickup coil because the heads got damaged during removal. I don't feel confident that they'll behave well during reassembly.

    So, is there anything I should also examine/clean/replace? I saw some stuff about bushings, but not anything that was useful.
    1978 Ford LTD wagon, 351M
    1979 Mercury Marquis, 351W
    1987 Ford F-250 HD 4x4, 460, 4-speed, reg cab full bed
    2003 Mercury Marauder, 4.6L DOHC, JLT CAI, 4.10 gears, J-mod, custom tune

  20. #140
    I'm an air-conditioned gypsy gadget73's Avatar
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    what advance plate is in there? Depending what you're doing to the engine you may want to consider re-curving it. The stock setup tends to have overly stiff springs so the advance comes in late, but more available advance than is really needed.

    86 Lincoln Town Car (Galactica).
    5.0 HO, CompCams XE258,Scorpion 1.72 roller rockers, 3.55 K code rear, tow package, BHPerformance ported E7 heads, Tmoss Explorer intake, 65mm throttle body, Hedman 1 5/8" headers, 2.5" dual exhaust, ASP underdrive pulley

    91 Lincoln Mark VII LSC SE, triple black (Timewarp) - poly front bushings, KYB struts and shocks, Holley SystemMax1 lower intake, SilverFox AOD valve body,

    1984 Lincoln Continental TurboDiesel - rolls coal

    Quote Originally Posted by phayzer5 View Post
    I drive a Lincoln. I can't be bothered to shift like the peasants and rabble rousers

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