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Finally Got the Work Started on the '79

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    #76
    Ok, so they turned out barely readable when I attached from my phone. Guess I ought to upgrade to Tapatalk Pro or something...

    Anyway, I attached full copies here so they can be read more easily, even though they were rotated once uploaded... *sigh*
    Attached Files
    1978 Ford LTD wagon, 351M
    1979 Mercury Marquis, 351W
    1987 Ford F-250 HD 4x4, 460, 4-speed, reg cab full bed
    2003 Mercury Marauder, 4.6L DOHC, JLT CAI, 4.10 gears, J-mod, custom tune

    Comment


      #77
      Based on everything, I drew up a diagram. Does this look right? And I don't mean my terrible MS Paint skills.
      Attached Files
      1978 Ford LTD wagon, 351M
      1979 Mercury Marquis, 351W
      1987 Ford F-250 HD 4x4, 460, 4-speed, reg cab full bed
      2003 Mercury Marauder, 4.6L DOHC, JLT CAI, 4.10 gears, J-mod, custom tune

      Comment


        #78
        Also still trying to pick out a balancer. I was thinking the Summit SUM-163289 balancer, since it looks nice and comes with spacers (balancers all seem about 3.5" deep and the stock balancer seems about 4.125"). I was also considering either the Summit SUM-C4269 or the Trick Flow TFS-19006 in case I converted to fuel injection later on, but especially the Trick Flow because of the high contrast timing marks.

        Sent from my VS988 using Tapatalk
        1978 Ford LTD wagon, 351M
        1979 Mercury Marquis, 351W
        1987 Ford F-250 HD 4x4, 460, 4-speed, reg cab full bed
        2003 Mercury Marauder, 4.6L DOHC, JLT CAI, 4.10 gears, J-mod, custom tune

        Comment


          #79
          You're running a C4? Those have vacuum modulators, but it should be manifold vac, not ported vac. That should not be tied in to the EGR system. If you're swapping to an AOD, no vacuum.

          Otherwise looks reasonable. You should see more timing advance when the EGR is open, but the timing advance should not open the EGR and the EGR should only open when the engine is warm.
          86 Lincoln Town Car (Galactica).
          5.0 HO, CompCams XE258,Scorpion 1.72 roller rockers, 3.55 K code rear, tow package, BHPerformance ported E7 heads, Tmoss Explorer intake, 65mm throttle body, Hedman 1 5/8" headers, 2.5" dual exhaust, ASP underdrive pulley

          91 Lincoln Mark VII LSC grandpa spec white and cranberry

          1984 Lincoln Continental TurboDiesel - rolls coal

          Originally posted by phayzer5
          I drive a Lincoln. I can't be bothered to shift like the peasants and rabble rousers

          Comment


            #80
            Actually, it's an FMX. But, I can see the trans connected to the manifold vacuum, now that I'm looking at it. I don't know why that information suggested it should be connected to EGR ported vacuum. But if everything other than that piece looks good, I'm going to order the blue switch, the check valve, and the delay valve. Get that vacuum circuit built once I'm ready for it.

            Sent from my VS988 using Tapatalk
            1978 Ford LTD wagon, 351M
            1979 Mercury Marquis, 351W
            1987 Ford F-250 HD 4x4, 460, 4-speed, reg cab full bed
            2003 Mercury Marauder, 4.6L DOHC, JLT CAI, 4.10 gears, J-mod, custom tune

            Comment


              #81
              Well, I have the timing sprockets finally removed. It's really nasty behind the cam sprocket. Between that mess and the mess around where the cover needs to seal, I'm going to put some cardboard over the open end of the oil pan and the crankshaft. That should help diver debris out of the pan while I clean. I might even push pan bolts through the cardboard to keep it in place. I also need to decide what to do about this hole in the new cover next to the crank position sensor mount. The original has no hole there.

              .
              Dirty, dirty engine:



              .
              Hole in new timing cover:



              .
              No hole in original timing cover:



              Sent from my VS988 using Tapatalk
              1978 Ford LTD wagon, 351M
              1979 Mercury Marquis, 351W
              1987 Ford F-250 HD 4x4, 460, 4-speed, reg cab full bed
              2003 Mercury Marauder, 4.6L DOHC, JLT CAI, 4.10 gears, J-mod, custom tune

              Comment


                #82
                Finally Got the Work Started on the '79

                There should be a steel plug included with the timing cover. It looks like a mini freezeplug. Tap that in to seal the hole. The hole is used for the dipstick tube on front sump oil pans.


                Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

                Comment


                  #83
                  and if you can't come up with a suitable plug, tap it and thread in a bolt with loctite.
                  86 Lincoln Town Car (Galactica).
                  5.0 HO, CompCams XE258,Scorpion 1.72 roller rockers, 3.55 K code rear, tow package, BHPerformance ported E7 heads, Tmoss Explorer intake, 65mm throttle body, Hedman 1 5/8" headers, 2.5" dual exhaust, ASP underdrive pulley

                  91 Lincoln Mark VII LSC grandpa spec white and cranberry

                  1984 Lincoln Continental TurboDiesel - rolls coal

                  Originally posted by phayzer5
                  I drive a Lincoln. I can't be bothered to shift like the peasants and rabble rousers

                  Comment


                    #84
                    I found the plug in the kit. It kept hiding behind the seal in its bag. Was wondering why a bag with just a seal kept jingling.

                    Sent from my VS988 using Tapatalk
                    1978 Ford LTD wagon, 351M
                    1979 Mercury Marquis, 351W
                    1987 Ford F-250 HD 4x4, 460, 4-speed, reg cab full bed
                    2003 Mercury Marauder, 4.6L DOHC, JLT CAI, 4.10 gears, J-mod, custom tune

                    Comment


                      #85
                      Ok, so on a whim I went looking for wiring harnesses, and decided to search for Duraspark harnesses... Came right up with two aftermarket options. There's a harness by American Autowire at Summit for $103.50, and one by Painless Performance at Jegs for $86. Seems like both are good for either the blue or yellow ignition module (will likely grab a blue Motorcraft module). Then I just need to pick up a Duraspark dist (trying to find one in blue that isn't fancy and not $200+, not easy).

                      The odd thing is that on Jegs, they include the installation instructions on the product page, and I'm seeing something odd in them. They're showing wiring connections on both ends of the ballast resistor, but best I can tell the existing resistor only has one wire and grounds to its mounting bracket. Also, looking at the plugs, I can see which is for the pickup on the dist, and the four-wire plug for the ICM. But they both have a three-wire plug which I assume is to connect to the two-wire plug on either the blue or yellow module (has to be the two-wire on the blue since there's no other option). Makes me wonder if it can actually connect, and if it does, what happens to that third wire.

                      Has anyone had experience with these harnesses? Seems relatively easy to get into place, but I'm just not sure about these... Issues.

                      Sent from my VS988 using Tapatalk
                      1978 Ford LTD wagon, 351M
                      1979 Mercury Marquis, 351W
                      1987 Ford F-250 HD 4x4, 460, 4-speed, reg cab full bed
                      2003 Mercury Marauder, 4.6L DOHC, JLT CAI, 4.10 gears, J-mod, custom tune

                      Comment


                        #86
                        I'm a dummy. There's no ballast resistor in the cars. That's the radio noise capacitor. Don't know why I was getting those mixed in my head.

                        Sent from my VS988 using Tapatalk
                        1978 Ford LTD wagon, 351M
                        1979 Mercury Marquis, 351W
                        1987 Ford F-250 HD 4x4, 460, 4-speed, reg cab full bed
                        2003 Mercury Marauder, 4.6L DOHC, JLT CAI, 4.10 gears, J-mod, custom tune

                        Comment


                          #87
                          there is a resistor wire somewhere in the mix rather than the ceramic ballast resistor like Chrysler uses. Thats what you see connections to both sides of. In crank mode it feeds +12v direct to the coil. When running it feeds through the resistor wire. Thats what the I terminal on the starter relay usually feeds, but it might just be tied into the circuit feeding the S terminal on the relay. Should also be 2 power inputs to the D-spark box, one run hot, one crank hot.
                          86 Lincoln Town Car (Galactica).
                          5.0 HO, CompCams XE258,Scorpion 1.72 roller rockers, 3.55 K code rear, tow package, BHPerformance ported E7 heads, Tmoss Explorer intake, 65mm throttle body, Hedman 1 5/8" headers, 2.5" dual exhaust, ASP underdrive pulley

                          91 Lincoln Mark VII LSC grandpa spec white and cranberry

                          1984 Lincoln Continental TurboDiesel - rolls coal

                          Originally posted by phayzer5
                          I drive a Lincoln. I can't be bothered to shift like the peasants and rabble rousers

                          Comment


                            #88
                            Well, I'm not certain where that wire could even be. Can't tell on this car or my LTD (took a look the '78 to see if I could find it since it has a stock Duraspark system). As it is I'm having to rewire quite a bit, since I can't use a significant portion of the factory wiring because it's either chewed or for components that have been removed.

                            But more to the point of my original statement, when I read "ballast resistor", my mind pictured the noise capacitor and it took a few moments to clear it in that rattlecan I call my brain.

                            Anyway... When I was trying to make comparisons between my wagon and the Marquis, my old wagon is only using one of either the I or S terminals (can't remember which). And can't really trace where the ballast resistor might be unless it's hidden within the wire loom that runs from the coil on the passenger side to the ICM on the driver side on the rear of the fender.

                            The Marquis is using both the I and S terminals, but it's even more difficult to trace the wiring given that it was built with a lot more electrical/electronic components under the hood. Also, right now I think it best to not try to find a hot lead when switched to start. I mean, not just because there's no battery at present, but I still have to replace the main ground wire and terminal (and check/repair a few other grounds). With the level of disassembly under the hood it'll be easy, but I'm being lazy about it. And I still need to run a new wire for the starter.

                            Earlier on when I had a spare battery on hand and I was testing some of the electrics, I tried to give it a crank, but the ground wire was so bad at the terminal it just sparked really bad.

                            All in all, though, is there enough of a difference between these harnesses to indicate a superior product?

                            Sent from my VS988 using Tapatalk
                            1978 Ford LTD wagon, 351M
                            1979 Mercury Marquis, 351W
                            1987 Ford F-250 HD 4x4, 460, 4-speed, reg cab full bed
                            2003 Mercury Marauder, 4.6L DOHC, JLT CAI, 4.10 gears, J-mod, custom tune

                            Comment


                              #89
                              not honestly sure where it lives either, but its there someplace. If the + side of the coil has 2 wires, fair bet one is cranking power and the other is the resistor wire.

                              The I terminal went out of use after CFI. I've never spent any real time under the hood of a carb Panther either so I'm mostly working off what I've seen discussed elsewhere.

                              as for the aftermarket ones, no clue if one is better than the other without having parts on hand. Difference would probably be in the quality of the connector plugs but you'd probably have to put them side by side to really compare.
                              Last edited by gadget73; 04-21-2020, 05:05 PM.
                              86 Lincoln Town Car (Galactica).
                              5.0 HO, CompCams XE258,Scorpion 1.72 roller rockers, 3.55 K code rear, tow package, BHPerformance ported E7 heads, Tmoss Explorer intake, 65mm throttle body, Hedman 1 5/8" headers, 2.5" dual exhaust, ASP underdrive pulley

                              91 Lincoln Mark VII LSC grandpa spec white and cranberry

                              1984 Lincoln Continental TurboDiesel - rolls coal

                              Originally posted by phayzer5
                              I drive a Lincoln. I can't be bothered to shift like the peasants and rabble rousers

                              Comment


                                #90
                                When you get the Distributor get it with the right gear or you will rebuild your engine, another thing do not get one from Advanced Auto Parts. Just read my story of the crap Distributor.

                                Comment

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