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    Rear Gears

    A little rant, I called around a few different shops here in town for a quote to swap out my gears. I have 4.10s and hate that my speedo is off and can’t be calibrated and the stacked shifts are annoying. So I called around expecting around 500 or so but damn the minimum these places charge are 700 not including gears. I hate it here, you have to be pretty well off to do anything with cars around here. There are no mom and pop shops around here and a lot of places cater to top tier auto manufacturers.

    Anyway, what do you guys think is reasonable? I might just have to go to Miami or something to swap these out for a reasonable price. Have you guys swapped them yourself? I don’t feel comfortable shimming the gears but I know I could do the rest.


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    #2
    I have done it myself once and paid to have it done twice. It took time and research to do it myself and around $250 to have it done, supplying everything...NY can be expensive.

    Sent from my SM-G975U using Tapatalk
    1989 Country Squire - Twilight Blue, 347 stroker


    2005 Crown Victoria Sport - Black - Stainless Works full exhaust with Borla Pro XS mufflers, BBK 75mm TB, Accufab plenum, CVPI airbox, Heinous control arms, etc...

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      #3
      My pops has the factory ford tools for installing and setting up rear gears. We did the set in my Vic back in 2013 I believe. Wish I paid more attention as I don't know when we will be doing that again. Seems like a skill that is dying and I would like to pick it up.
      ~David~

      My 1987 Crown Victoria Coupe: The Brown Blob
      My 2004 Mercedes Benz E320:The Benz

      Originally posted by ootdega
      My life is a long series of "nevermind" and "I guess not."

      Originally posted by DerekTheGreat
      But, that's just coming from me, this site's biggest pessimist. Best of luck

      Originally posted by gadget73
      my car starts and it has AC. Yours doesn't start and it has no AC. Seems obvious to me.




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        #4
        If you knew they would do it properly and really set the pinion bearing torque and re-shim them if slop is out of spec it would not be so bad. It is a slow process to be done "right" and it is best done with a shop press at hand though you can, like me, take the pinion to a shop for that part of the process.

        Most folks and shops just swap them in with existing shims and call it good. Generally it is good but not always.
        03 Marauder DPB, HS, 6disk, Organizer Mods> LED's in & Out, M&Z rear control arms, Oil deflector, U-Haul Trans Pan, Blue Fuzzy Dice
        02 SL500 Silver Arrow
        08 TC Signature Limited, HID's Mods>235/55-17 Z rated BFG G-Force Comp-2 A/S Plus, Addco 1" rear Sway, Posi Carrier, Compustar Remote Start, floor liners, trunk organizer, Two part Sun Visors, B&M Trans drain Plug, Winter=05 Mustang GT rims, Nokian Hakkapeliitta R-2 235/55-17
        12 Escape Limited V6 AWD, 225/65R17 Vredestein Quatrac Pro, Winter 235/70-16 Conti Viking Contact7 Mods>Beamtech LED headlight bulbs, Husky floor liners

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          #5
          Sounds very high, the shop I last worked out was a specialty Mustang performance shop & we got $650 for the job including the gears,all bearings except axle bearings & redline lube.They are not that hard to do if you have a press,a dial indicator & something to measure the shims with.Learned how to do my first ones from an older tech in the shop I worked in 35 years ago & have done thousands of them since then.

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            #6
            I would like to think I know my way around a garage but I think it would be a little out of my leage or else I’d try it. And all I have are hand tools and ramps... I’ll keep calling around, maybe someone a little further out will be reasonable.


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              #7
              Originally posted by jaywish View Post
              Most folks and shops just swap them in with existing shims and call it good. Generally it is good but not always.
              it's how i was taught and the only way i have ever done it, i have reshimmed the carrier already but i always reuse the pinion shim. then set it up and check preload with an inch pound torque wrench. then install the carrier and check endplay with a dial indicator.
              i have had one comeback, the gears were defective and made a ton of noise, changed out the ring and pinion and all was well
              now i can't vouch for these modern made in china frpp gears, i always went for used oem gears from a truck after ford switched to chinese gears.
              i have also told people looking to build a "race" rear to find someone else.

              just charged my buddy 300 plus bearings and seals and gear oil to rebuild his dodge dakota rear....darn i'm too cheap!
              Last edited by Lincolnmania; 03-12-2020, 04:15 AM.

              1986 lincoln towncar signature series. 5.0 HO with thumper performance ported e7 heads, 1.7 roller rockers, warm air intake, 65mm throttle body, 1/2" intake spacer, ported intakes, 3.73 rear with trac lock, 98-02 front brake conversion, 92-97 rear disc conversion, 1" rear swaybar, 1 3/16" front swaybar, 16" wheels and tires, loud ass stereo system, badass cb, best time to date 15.94 at 87 mph. lots of mods in the works 221.8 rwhp 278 rwt
              2006 Lincoln Town Car Signature. Stock for now
              1989 Ford F-250 4x4 much much more to come, sefi converted so far.
              1986 Toyota pickup with LSC wheels and 225/60/16 tires.
              2008 Hyundai Elantra future Revcon toad
              1987 TriBurner and 1986 Alaska stokers keeping me warm. (and some pesky oil heat)

              please be patient, rebuilding an empire!

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                #8
                I paid ~$700 to have an entire axle swapped out, inspected (replaced two bearings and the axle seals), stripped & painted for my Fireturd at the Ring & Pinion shop over on Gratiot near me. I still go there for rear end and U-joint stuff. I feel that is reasonable. Now, that was damn near ten years ago now though.
                1985 LTD Crown Victoria - SOLD
                1988 Town Car Signature - Current Party Barge

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                  #9
                  Might be time to buy a few measuring tools, feelers, a magnetic block and a shop press. Once you learn it on this job, you still have the tools to use afterwards.
                  All FORD All The Time

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                    #10
                    yeah, this is the point where I go for the learning process as well. Precision measuring stuff can be had amazingly cheap if you aren't shopping Starrett or one of the other big names. The cheap-ass China indicators work fine for this. I have several and my fancier stuff reads the same. The mag base might be the exception, some cheap ones have weak magnets so watch what you buy there.

                    the in-lb beam wrenches can be had for not too stupid $, the only trouble is you will usually need a stack of adapters to use them. Most are 1/4 or sometimes 3/8 and the socket to turn the pinion is 1/2 drive. Not the end of the world, just FYI.
                    86 Lincoln Town Car (Galactica).
                    5.0 HO, CompCams XE258,Scorpion 1.72 roller rockers, 3.55 K code rear, tow package, BHPerformance ported E7 heads, Tmoss Explorer intake, 65mm throttle body, Hedman 1 5/8" headers, 2.5" dual exhaust, ASP underdrive pulley

                    91 Lincoln Mark VII LSC grandpa spec white and cranberry

                    1984 Lincoln Continental TurboDiesel - rolls coal

                    Originally posted by phayzer5
                    I drive a Lincoln. I can't be bothered to shift like the peasants and rabble rousers

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                      #11
                      I might give it a go but it won’t be soon. I got a vintage craftsman beam style torque wrench a few months ago for free from a buddy I’ll finally get the chance to use it lol. I saw a video on the install on I think Latemodel Restoration not too long ago. It doesn’t look too hard except for setting up the gear pattern. I guess as long as I understand the concept it won’t be hard. I will have to get a few tools first.


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                        #12
                        You need multiple torque wrenches. Inch lb for pinion drag. Other heavy units for setting bolts etc.
                        03 Marauder DPB, HS, 6disk, Organizer Mods> LED's in & Out, M&Z rear control arms, Oil deflector, U-Haul Trans Pan, Blue Fuzzy Dice
                        02 SL500 Silver Arrow
                        08 TC Signature Limited, HID's Mods>235/55-17 Z rated BFG G-Force Comp-2 A/S Plus, Addco 1" rear Sway, Posi Carrier, Compustar Remote Start, floor liners, trunk organizer, Two part Sun Visors, B&M Trans drain Plug, Winter=05 Mustang GT rims, Nokian Hakkapeliitta R-2 235/55-17
                        12 Escape Limited V6 AWD, 225/65R17 Vredestein Quatrac Pro, Winter 235/70-16 Conti Viking Contact7 Mods>Beamtech LED headlight bulbs, Husky floor liners

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                          #13
                          pinion drag is like 20 in-lb? something fairly low anyway. I have two, one I had in an old box that I forgot about and a newer one that I bought to re-set a pinion. Ended up using the older one since the range was more favorable. Its the cutest little thing, the whole wrench will lay in the palm of your hand. The handle is maybe a little smaller than a ping-pong ball. It gets operated with a finger and a thumb only.
                          86 Lincoln Town Car (Galactica).
                          5.0 HO, CompCams XE258,Scorpion 1.72 roller rockers, 3.55 K code rear, tow package, BHPerformance ported E7 heads, Tmoss Explorer intake, 65mm throttle body, Hedman 1 5/8" headers, 2.5" dual exhaust, ASP underdrive pulley

                          91 Lincoln Mark VII LSC grandpa spec white and cranberry

                          1984 Lincoln Continental TurboDiesel - rolls coal

                          Originally posted by phayzer5
                          I drive a Lincoln. I can't be bothered to shift like the peasants and rabble rousers

                          Comment


                            #14
                            Mine was $500; and that was after gutting, cleaning, and assembling it to see how close I could get. Unfortunately, I couldn't carry it out of the basement fully loaded.

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                              #15
                              Originally posted by Lincolnmania View Post
                              it's how i was taught and the only way i have ever done it, i have reshimmed the carrier already but i always reuse the pinion shim. then set it up and check preload with an inch pound torque wrench. then install the carrier and check endplay with a dial indicator.
                              Same way I was taught as long as you are using factory gears. Have done thousands this way in the past 35 years & can count on one hand how many come backs.Use the factory pinion shim & make sure the backlash is about .010 you should be good to go.

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