PotM GrandMarq.NET - Panther Headquarters Forum Index PotM
GMN Chat Room GMN's STORE!! GMN's Gallery Please!!
Page 43 of 46 FirstFirst ... 334142434445 ... LastLast
Results 841 to 860 of 915

Thread: My '85 MGM, "Maisa"

  1. #841
    GMN Regular DerekTheGreat's Avatar
    Join Date
    Sep 2014
    Location
    Warren, MI
    Posts
    6,990

    Default

    That looks pretty cool. Although I'm not sure about the whitewalls with them though.

    You'll never see those scratches unless the car is standing still and you're right on 'em. Although the car looks pretty damn nice, so I could see why you'd want to refinish them if you kept that look.
    1985 LTD Crown Victoria - SOLD
    1988 Town Car Signature - Current Party Barge

  2. #842
    Lost and driftin' Arquemann's Avatar
    Join Date
    Jul 2019
    Location
    Finland
    Posts
    1,459

    Default

    Quote Originally Posted by DerekTheGreat View Post
    You'll never see those scratches unless the car is standing still and you're right on 'em. Although the car looks pretty damn nice, so I could see why you'd want to refinish them if you kept that look.
    Yeah, but the black is so faded that they really need painting, and if you're gonna paint, probably should sand atleast the worst gouges away. The scratches from the wire covers are so deep and sharp they rip up a rag or sponge.

    On the pics with the new center caps installed, the wheels are freshly waxed with Auto glym SRP, that's why they look passable, or atleast glossy.
    1985 Mercury Grand Marquis LS, "Maisa"
    1995 Chevrolet Caprice Classic STW, "Sally"

  3. #843
    Stow It! GM_Guy's Avatar
    Join Date
    Sep 2008
    Location
    Ontario, Canada
    Posts
    3,734

    Default

    Quote Originally Posted by Arquemann View Post
    I'll have to feel around more. Those Ranger caps on GM_guy's first pic don't look half bad, whatever that middle pic is weird...
    Mountaineer caps don't look too bad, even though I'm not a big fan of the flying M logo.
    The 2nd pic is yet another style of ranger cap if you didn't catch it, which corresponds to the ranger cap you linked.
    The middle pic with the M is the oem ones, the next pic is an aftermarket set of moutaineer caps with no logo in the center. Once you pic the style, you can then dig deeper to see whats all out there. Logo, no logo, textured middle, smooth middle. fully chromed, matte-chrome (my 2nd pic also came a few years in a matte chrome finish on some rangers). Theres also a couple more styles of ranger and mountaineer caps out there if none of these factory options are favorable. Attachment #3 is the ranger version of the flying M mountaineer cap. As you've probably noticed by now, there are only a handfull basic designs, but a couple handfulls of logo's and finishes.

    One problem with those are my spacers, they are m12x1,5 so finding correct lugnuts might prove inconvenient. Unless I bash out the m12 studs and put in new 1/2" studs, which is a pain in the ass. The current studs also stick a lot through the lugnuts.
    Would these work? https://www.nippelit.fi/1st/html/def...tmode=showprod

    The same store also sells the Ranger caps, 20€ a pop. https://www.nippelit.fi/1st/html/def...tmode=showprod
    Yes m12 would be a problem. Stock lug nuts, and collared lug nuts are 1/2"-20, they where only used with the rangers and cop cars 96ish model year and newer [edit:and mazda's over here. But I'm curious if the B-series was available in Europe, if the lug nuts where metric with a collar]. If you start looking into it you will find that the crown vic and the ford ranger have different part numbers for collared lug nuts. Don't worry about it, as long as you have a collared nut they will work. The difference is the ranger uses a 3/4" hex, the crown vic uses a 13/16" hex. Get whatever you find. I run the ranger lug nuts as I got a super deal on genuine ford ones.

    The nut you linked to will NOT work. The collared nut ViccrownVic shows is what you are after by way of collar location, that raised ridge mates with grooves in the center cap retainer. Also note, some center caps have plastic finger retainers, some have metal spring "flower" retainers. Doesn't matter, I got both, never lost any yet.

    Did you guys get Mazda B-series pickup trucks over there? You might find something locally thats cheaper, just need to do something about the logo.
    Attached Thumbnails Attached Thumbnails center cap metal retainer 6c.jpg   center cap plastic retainer.jpg   center cap. ranger.a.jpg   center cap.ranger.naked.jpg   center cap.mazda b-series.c.jpg  

    center cap mazda bseries.blk.jpg   center cap mazda bseries.round.jpg  
    Last edited by GM_Guy; 07-21-2022 at 06:27 PM.

  4. #844
    Lost and driftin' Arquemann's Avatar
    Join Date
    Jul 2019
    Location
    Finland
    Posts
    1,459

    Default

    Quote Originally Posted by GM_Guy View Post
    Did you guys get Mazda B-series pickup trucks over there? You might find something locally thats cheaper, just need to do something about the logo.
    Yup we do, more like did though. Most of them have been run to the ground and scrapped. There's like four B2500's for sale in Finland currently.
    And every single pickup for sale or in a junkyard is 6-lug and with manual hubs.
    1985 Mercury Grand Marquis LS, "Maisa"
    1995 Chevrolet Caprice Classic STW, "Sally"

  5. #845
    Lost and driftin' Arquemann's Avatar
    Join Date
    Jul 2019
    Location
    Finland
    Posts
    1,459

    Default

    I've gotta get the oil changed on this thing, I'm thinking 20W50... The engine makes some intermittent heyhoyhappygofuntime-noises at idle.
    If the thicker oil makes a difference in the sound, I'd bet the bottom end is worn, cause that's where the fun sounds seem to come from.

    https://drive.google.com/file/d/1xI2...ew?usp=sharing
    1985 Mercury Grand Marquis LS, "Maisa"
    1995 Chevrolet Caprice Classic STW, "Sally"

  6. #846
    Beater gonna beat sly's Avatar
    Join Date
    Mar 2010
    Location
    Lewisville, TX
    Posts
    23,310

    Default

    If it's currently using 10w30, try 10w40 first. 20w50 generally means start saving for a new engine/car.

    Only two things are infinite, the universe and human stupidity, and I'm not sure about the former. -- Albert Einstein
    rides: 93 Crown Vic LX (The Red Velvet Cake), 2000 Crown Vic base model (Sandy), 2003 Expedition (the vacation beast)
    Quote Originally Posted by gadget73
    ... and it should all work like magic and unicorns and stuff.
    Quote Originally Posted by dmccaig
    Overhead, some poor bastards are flying in airplanes.

  7. #847
    GMN Regular DerekTheGreat's Avatar
    Join Date
    Sep 2014
    Location
    Warren, MI
    Posts
    6,990

    Default

    If it gets below 0C, 10W will be thicker than cold honey. You won't want that in your crankcase as it'll essentially be running dry for several seconds at a time each time you start it. Now, I ran that Valvoline VR-One stuff in my Fury. Think that was 20W-50. Bottom end on that car was loose and that oil helped cure it. But I only drove that thing in the spring/summer. Oil probably had the viscosity of tar below freezing.
    1985 LTD Crown Victoria - SOLD
    1988 Town Car Signature - Current Party Barge

  8. #848
    Lost and driftin' Arquemann's Avatar
    Join Date
    Jul 2019
    Location
    Finland
    Posts
    1,459

    Default

    Quote Originally Posted by sly View Post
    If it's currently using 10w30, try 10w40 first. 20w50 generally means start saving for a new engine/car.
    I put in 10W40 last year. Don't remember what was put in it before that. The noise has been getting more consistent year by year it'd seem. At first it'd clinkclunk sometimes when idling hot, now it does it almost always at idle, hot or cold.
    I drive this only really during the summer, it might see a few +5C starts but probably nothing colder than that.
    1985 Mercury Grand Marquis LS, "Maisa"
    1995 Chevrolet Caprice Classic STW, "Sally"

  9. #849
    Still Wrenchin'! friskyfrankie's Avatar
    Join Date
    Dec 2021
    Posts
    784

    Default

    Could it be dirty lifters? Possibly use Marvel Mystery Oil or an engine flush and refill?
    What I Own: 1993 Mercury Grand Marquis GS
    What I Help Maintain: 1996 CV / 1988 CV / 1988 Tempo

  10. #850
    Lost and driftin' Arquemann's Avatar
    Join Date
    Jul 2019
    Location
    Finland
    Posts
    1,459

    Default

    Quote Originally Posted by friskyfrankie View Post
    Could it be dirty lifters? Possibly use Marvel Mystery Oil or an engine flush and refill?
    I dunno, the noise can't really be heard from above, ie hood open. In person it really sounds like it's coming from the bottom end, doesn't really sound like valve train problems either, more substantial than a lifter tick.
    I would not be surprised if it is just the bottom end being totally worn out.
    What's the famous "LoPo knock" that's been thrown around on these forums? Is it rods? What does it sound like?

    Can't get the mystery oil in Finland. I have considered engine flushes, but the engine is somewhat clean inside, so dunno what that's worth. Probably would just cause the old crappy seals to puke out even more oil everywhere.
    1985 Mercury Grand Marquis LS, "Maisa"
    1995 Chevrolet Caprice Classic STW, "Sally"

  11. #851
    I'm an air-conditioned gypsy gadget73's Avatar
    Join Date
    Jan 2005
    Posts
    41,589

    Default

    sloppy bottom ends on a non-HO is very common. Something about the firing order of the 289/302 that beats the rear main bearing up. The HO and 351 doesn't seem to do this.

    So long as the oil pressure light isn't on at hot idle its good enough.

    86 Lincoln Town Car (Galactica).
    5.0 HO, CompCams XE258,Scorpion 1.72 roller rockers, 3.55 K code rear, tow package, BHPerformance ported E7 heads, Tmoss Explorer intake, 65mm throttle body, Hedman 1 5/8" headers, 2.5" dual exhaust, ASP underdrive pulley

    91 Lincoln Mark VII LSC SE, triple black (Timewarp) - poly front bushings, KYB struts and shocks, Holley SystemMax1 lower intake, SilverFox AOD valve body,

    1984 Lincoln Continental TurboDiesel - rolls coal

    Quote Originally Posted by phayzer5 View Post
    I drive a Lincoln. I can't be bothered to shift like the peasants and rabble rousers

  12. #852
    fomoco panthers !
    Join Date
    May 2011
    Location
    Bangor,Maine
    Posts
    4,412

    Default

    When doing an oil change, do you see shiny shavings mixed with the oil in the drain pan. If so, disaster is quickly ahead.

  13. #853
    Wagon Addicted Tiggie's Avatar
    Join Date
    Mar 2006
    Location
    Bedford, VA
    Posts
    6,834

    Default

    Don't do the 20w-50. I ran it once in an old worn out truck. It didn't help hot oil pressure or oil consumption enough to matter. Made cold starts REALLY slow and noisy lifters.

    The owners manual says 10w-40 is okay from brand new, so you could easily run that.
    1990 Country Squire - weekend cruiser, next project
    1988 Crown Vic LTD Wagon - waiting in the wings

    GMN Box Panther History
    Box Panther Horsepower and Torque Ratings
    Box Panther Production Numbers

  14. #854
    Lost and driftin' Arquemann's Avatar
    Join Date
    Jul 2019
    Location
    Finland
    Posts
    1,459

    Default

    Well, did the oil change, no glitter or anything fun, just black oil. It was last changed in April last year, this year's change got delayed so the oil did just under 5000 miles, which is way more than I intended.
    In went a popular mineral oil, British Classic 20W-50, made by Comma. I'm not winter driving this, it'll be fine!

    Idle still goes clicketyclack like before, oil filter was prefilled to the best degree and the oil light went away during cranking.
    I should probably hook up an oil pressure gauge to see what's it do actually, but I guess I can't do much at this point. I'll throw in some RVS for funsies and just drive the car. I'll let it clicketyclack away until the "replace engine light" comes on or it does something else fun.
    I did notice the occasional clacking a couple years ago, but it has gotten worse during the last two seasons. Not like I didn't see this coming, still bums me out.
    1985 Mercury Grand Marquis LS, "Maisa"
    1995 Chevrolet Caprice Classic STW, "Sally"

  15. #855
    GMN Regular DerekTheGreat's Avatar
    Join Date
    Sep 2014
    Location
    Warren, MI
    Posts
    6,990

    Default

    The "W" only matters if cold starts are a thing, so the lower the better. You primarily want to care about the number on the right. I've seen 0W-40 out there and would go for that if I still ran 40. Or well, whatever one provides the highest film strength. But thanks to some more reading on 5-40 Rat, I'm back to 5W-30, full synthetic Quaker State.

    That 20w-50 VR1 oil kept the oil pressure light off in my Fury. Although it never made any noise back when the light came on. 10W-40 had the same effects you noticed on cold starts, hence my suggestions not to go any thicker than that if vehicle subjected to cold starts. Perhaps try 0W-40 in that case or 0/5/10W-50 if it exists. It got a few cold starts when I sold it- ::shudder:: I think the lifters tapped for up to a minute before that sludge made it's way through them.

    I will say that in my current DD, I used to run 5W-40 Rotella T6. Since switching to 5W-30 FS Quaker State, the 40 weight T6 was good for an additional 5psi hot pressure @ idle according to the dummy dash gauge.

    A good oil filter helps fight noise on start up. According to 5-40Rat, Motorcraft oil filters are amidst the best you can buy as they have a great anti-drain back valve. This seems to be most important. Another decent filter according to him is the bottom tier Purolater. I switched the 2002 Tahoe in the fleet to one of those + the Quaker State stuff and the 10-20 seconds of lifter tap it had on start up went to being either non-existent or less than 5 seconds and really quiet. I didn't think it would make a difference since the filter is already vertical, but it did.
    Last edited by DerekTheGreat; 08-17-2022 at 09:16 AM.
    1985 LTD Crown Victoria - SOLD
    1988 Town Car Signature - Current Party Barge

  16. #856
    Lost and driftin' Arquemann's Avatar
    Join Date
    Jul 2019
    Location
    Finland
    Posts
    1,459

    Default

    Quote Originally Posted by DerekTheGreat View Post
    The "W" only matters if cold starts are a thing, so the lower the better. You primarily want to care about the number on the right. I've seen 0W-40 out there and would go for that if I still ran 40. Or well, whatever one provides the highest film strength. But thanks to some more reading on 5-40 Rat, I'm back to 5W-30, full synthetic Quaker State.

    That 20w-50 VR1 oil kept the oil pressure light off in my Fury. Although it never made any noise back when the light came on. 10W-40 had the same effects you noticed on cold starts, hence my suggestions not to go any thicker than that if vehicle subjected to cold starts. Perhaps try 0W-40 in that case or 0/5/10W-50 if it exists. It got a few cold starts when I sold it- ::shudder:: I think the lifters tapped for up to a minute before that sludge made it's way through them.

    I will say that in my current DD, I used to run 5W-40 Rotella T6. Since switching to 5W-30 FS Quaker State, the 40 weight T6 was good for an additional 5psi hot pressure @ idle according to the dummy dash gauge.

    A good oil filter helps fight noise on start up. According to 5-40Rat, Motorcraft oil filters are amidst the best you can buy as they have a great anti-drain back valve. This seems to be most important. Another decent filter according to him is the bottom tier Purolater. I switched the 2002 Tahoe in the fleet to one of those + the Quaker State stuff and the 10-20 seconds of lifter tap it had on start up went to being either non-existent or less than 5 seconds and really quiet. I didn't think it would make a difference since the filter is already vertical, but it did.
    Yeah, I've ran 40 weight on this since I got it, but this time I tried thicker 50 weight if the clattering might quiet down a bit, which it didn't.
    I've used Motorcraft filters every time, mainly because I didn't know if anything was better than OEM.

    I ran 0W30 in my Volvo for the first year, but switched to synthetic 0W40 for the second year. Oil consumption was reduced and it ran a bit smoother.
    1985 Mercury Grand Marquis LS, "Maisa"
    1995 Chevrolet Caprice Classic STW, "Sally"

  17. #857
    GMN Regular DerekTheGreat's Avatar
    Join Date
    Sep 2014
    Location
    Warren, MI
    Posts
    6,990

    Default

    540 RAT Oil Wear Protection Ranking List (2019).pdf

    Here's a neat list from 540 Rat, circa 2019. A bit dated, but still relevant. Can't go wrong with Mobil 1.. Before I read through his stuff, I used to think zinc content mattered and I used MotorKote engine oil additive. Straight up oil for me from now on. About the only thing I ever added to my oil and noticed a difference with was SeaFoam. The MotorKote did actually help my lawn mower, it doesn't knock any more.

    Quote Originally Posted by Arquemann View Post
    ...I've used Motorcraft filters every time, mainly because I didn't know if anything was better than OEM...
    Seems like in the case of Ford, no. 540 Rat dude didn't have good things to say about A/C Smelco filters, which is what I used to use on my GM products. Then somewhere about three to five years ago I switched to Wix XP filters. Heard they supposedly make filters for OEM's and generally make a good filter. Rat dude didn't say good things about those either, so now I'm trying the Purolaters out since I can get them for all of the vehicles in the fleet.
    Last edited by DerekTheGreat; 08-17-2022 at 10:05 AM.
    1985 LTD Crown Victoria - SOLD
    1988 Town Car Signature - Current Party Barge

  18. #858
    Still Wrenchin'! friskyfrankie's Avatar
    Join Date
    Dec 2021
    Posts
    784

    Default

    I have only used Motorcraft OEM Oil Filters, for MANY decades and have never had an issue. We're talking Ford vehicles only. Not to say other high quality filter won't work as well but I am not one to experiment with my cars.
    What I Own: 1993 Mercury Grand Marquis GS
    What I Help Maintain: 1996 CV / 1988 CV / 1988 Tempo

  19. #859
    Lost and driftin' Arquemann's Avatar
    Join Date
    Jul 2019
    Location
    Finland
    Posts
    1,459

    Default

    Interesting list, especially the Royal Purples being mostly down low. I've got some fanboy friends who swear by that pompous shit.

    Oh by the way, the rear shocks are yellow Monroes, does that mean they're old as shit or those po-po spec ones? Couldn't make out part numbers sadly.
    Either way the rear shocks look pretty toast.
    1985 Mercury Grand Marquis LS, "Maisa"
    1995 Chevrolet Caprice Classic STW, "Sally"

  20. #860
    GMN Regular DerekTheGreat's Avatar
    Join Date
    Sep 2014
    Location
    Warren, MI
    Posts
    6,990

    Default

    Quote Originally Posted by Arquemann View Post
    Interesting list, especially the Royal Purples being mostly down low. I've got some fanboy friends who swear by that pompous shit...
    Right?? Lots of Motul and Redline fanboys as well. Hype is why I switched to Shell Rotella T6, it was reputed to be great stuff. People using it in their LS powered Corvettes and all that on track day. Yet on his list, it's complete shit, think it only offers about 45,000psi of protection. I think somewhere on his blog he said 85 or 80k psi is the minimum for most applications, anything over is great and anything over 100k is outstanding. Something was also mentioned about additives similar to MotorKote- they increase the film strength of the oil but also increase the likelyhood of corrosion or something like that over time. Something to do with the chemistry of the additive. So that's why I won't use that any more except for in the lawn mower because well, lawn mower.

    He also said something to the effect of "Don't pay attention to what the bottle says, only the performance of what's in it." Recommends 5W-30 in any application regardless what the OEM specifies. He's got reasons and logic as to why and all that on his blog.

    Edit: I think yellow Monroes are heavy duty shocks- my truck has them on all four corners. Still doing good some three years after the fact. They're now mostly black thanks to Krown.
    Last edited by DerekTheGreat; 08-17-2022 at 12:04 PM.
    1985 LTD Crown Victoria - SOLD
    1988 Town Car Signature - Current Party Barge

Page 43 of 46 FirstFirst ... 334142434445 ... LastLast

Posting Permissions

  • You may not post new threads
  • You may not post replies
  • You may not post attachments
  • You may not edit your posts
  •  
GMN Approved Links!


www.rockauto.com www.adtr.net