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Thread: My '85 MGM, "Maisa"

  1. #121
    I'm an air-conditioned gypsy gadget73's Avatar
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    Thats what it shows for 82-85. I think its the same part on carb and CFI cars. SEFI stuff uses a different part which is curiously not actually listed for unknown reasons. Basically the C shaped bit where it goes over the throttle cable is rotated 90 degrees because of the way the cables sit relative to one another and the stud for the throttle body.

    86 Lincoln Town Car (Galactica).
    5.0 HO, CompCams XE258,Scorpion 1.72 roller rockers, 3.55 K code rear, tow package, BHPerformance ported E7 heads, Tmoss Explorer intake, 65mm throttle body, Hedman 1 5/8" headers, 2.5" dual exhaust, ASP underdrive pulley

    91 Lincoln Mark VII LSC SE, triple black (Timewarp) - poly front bushings, KYB struts and shocks, Holley SystemMax1 lower intake, SilverFox AOD valve body,

    1984 Lincoln Continental TurboDiesel - rolls coal

    Quote Originally Posted by phayzer5 View Post
    I drive a Lincoln. I can't be bothered to shift like the peasants and rabble rousers

  2. #122
    The Brown Blob 87gtVIC's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by gadget73 View Post
    not sure of a source but it looks like the connector block thing is E25Y-9C876-A and the clip is E1FZ-9D726-B

    dump valve is easiest to check from the engine bay. If you look at the side of the cruise servo you'll see a Y shaped fitting on it. One hose goes from the back to the front side of the servo, the other vanishes someplace else. That "someplace else" is the dump valve. Unhook the hose and see if it holds vacuum. If it does its good. If not, make sure its pushed far enough into the bracket that the button is pushed in by the brake pedal.
    One thing I found interesting reading up on the dump valve in the shop manual is its placement in relation to the adapter it hits on the brake pedal. If positioned to close under temperature changes the brake lights may actually turn on as the valve is pushing the pedal away. I don't buy it, but it was worth mentioning in the manual so who the hell knows.
    ~David~

    My 1987 Crown Victoria Coupe: The Brown Blob
    My 2004 Mercedes Benz E320:The Benz

    Quote Originally Posted by DerekTheGreat View Post
    But, that's just coming from me, this site's biggest pessimist. Best of luck

  3. #123
    I'm an air-conditioned gypsy gadget73's Avatar
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    yeah there is some small gap between the face of the valve and the back of the pedal specified. I forget what it is, probably like 2 matchbooks thick or something.

    86 Lincoln Town Car (Galactica).
    5.0 HO, CompCams XE258,Scorpion 1.72 roller rockers, 3.55 K code rear, tow package, BHPerformance ported E7 heads, Tmoss Explorer intake, 65mm throttle body, Hedman 1 5/8" headers, 2.5" dual exhaust, ASP underdrive pulley

    91 Lincoln Mark VII LSC SE, triple black (Timewarp) - poly front bushings, KYB struts and shocks, Holley SystemMax1 lower intake, SilverFox AOD valve body,

    1984 Lincoln Continental TurboDiesel - rolls coal

    Quote Originally Posted by phayzer5 View Post
    I drive a Lincoln. I can't be bothered to shift like the peasants and rabble rousers

  4. #124
    Member Arquemann's Avatar
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    The dump valve holds vacuum. I only gave it about 5 InHg since I don't want to break anything.
    Atleast that's good.
    1985 Mercury Grand Marquis LS
    1997 Volvo 850 GLE Estate

  5. #125
    Member Arquemann's Avatar
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    Is there anything in literature about the cruise control adjustment?
    I was thinking about using zipties or strong tape to attach the shafts together, with maybe a rubber piece inbetween so the cruise shaft won't crack against the metal throttle shaft and the angle wouldn't be as sharp.
    1985 Mercury Grand Marquis LS
    1997 Volvo 850 GLE Estate

  6. #126
    I'm an air-conditioned gypsy gadget73's Avatar
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    yes, but basically you set the cruise cable for no slack. Too tight and it will hold the throttle open at idle, too loose and it picks up speed when you set it.

    I don't see tape or zip ties holding that as solidly as it needs to be held for proper functionality.

    86 Lincoln Town Car (Galactica).
    5.0 HO, CompCams XE258,Scorpion 1.72 roller rockers, 3.55 K code rear, tow package, BHPerformance ported E7 heads, Tmoss Explorer intake, 65mm throttle body, Hedman 1 5/8" headers, 2.5" dual exhaust, ASP underdrive pulley

    91 Lincoln Mark VII LSC SE, triple black (Timewarp) - poly front bushings, KYB struts and shocks, Holley SystemMax1 lower intake, SilverFox AOD valve body,

    1984 Lincoln Continental TurboDiesel - rolls coal

    Quote Originally Posted by phayzer5 View Post
    I drive a Lincoln. I can't be bothered to shift like the peasants and rabble rousers

  7. #127
    Member Arquemann's Avatar
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    Here's how I attached the cruise shaft, just trying it out.
    Click image for larger version. 

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    One ziptie wouldn't really be tight enough so the shaft wouldn't slip, but another one behind it made it pretty sturdy. Only thing I'm considering is the angle of the cable, especially with more open throttle. The cable might bind up there.
    I'll have to attach the plug to the servo tomorrow and take it for a spin. Just "ON" and "SET" to activate, right?

    AC clutch and rad hose are here most likely tomorrow.
    Last edited by Arquemann; 06-03-2020 at 10:38 AM. Reason: maybe add the pic yeh?
    1985 Mercury Grand Marquis LS
    1997 Volvo 850 GLE Estate

  8. #128
    The Brown Blob 87gtVIC's Avatar
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    Yes. though I have a habit of on set then on again though it actually does nothing after you hit set as it is the final command.

    Be above 35 mph or whatever that is in Finnish.
    ~David~

    My 1987 Crown Victoria Coupe: The Brown Blob
    My 2004 Mercedes Benz E320:The Benz

    Quote Originally Posted by DerekTheGreat View Post
    But, that's just coming from me, this site's biggest pessimist. Best of luck

  9. #129
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    The cruise works mint!
    35mph is 56 km/h and a pretty usual speed limit is 60km/h so it's juuust fine.
    I might revise the attachment method, but it works.

    On the test drive the car decided to randomly shut off approaching an intersection (cruise wasn't on at all). I cranked and cranked and it wouldn't fire back up. Waited about 15 seconds or so and it fired pretty much as usual.
    1985 Mercury Grand Marquis LS
    1997 Volvo 850 GLE Estate

  10. #130
    Beater gonna beat sly's Avatar
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    that kind of dying is typically the ignition module.

    Only two things are infinite, the universe and human stupidity, and I'm not sure about the former. -- Albert Einstein
    rides: 93 Crown Vic LX (The Red Velvet Cake), 2000 Crown Vic base model (Sandy), 2003 Expedition (the vacation beast)
    Quote Originally Posted by gadget73
    ... and it should all work like magic and unicorns and stuff.
    Quote Originally Posted by dmccaig
    Overhead, some poor bastards are flying in airplanes.

  11. #131
    Member Arquemann's Avatar
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    Drove around some more today, didn't shut off. Maybe that was just a random occurrence. Last time I had the hood open in the rain for a while when plugging in the cruise servo, and I drove in the rain, if that makes any difference.
    It has rained a lot in the last few days, I can confidently say that the trunk doesn't anymore where I sealed it (three times)! Except now I noticed a leak from under the taillight holes, and it's crusty.

    The AC clutch and rad hose have been stuck in the Fedex warehouse since wednesday, when I paid the duties. Maybe they'll get going tomorrow, since it's monday.

    I've been pondering on the direction I want to take this car...
    The more I look at photos on the interweb, the less difference I see between tire sizes.
    I'd like an old-school look with thick meats and 15's. Then again, bigger wheels don't look that big on these boxes.

    I've got these 14" Chrome reverses.
    Click image for larger version. 

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    With the 14's, it would definitely need some lowering springs 2-4 inches maybe. Also 14" tires are hard to find nowadays and are kinda expensive.
    I'd like to go with ~245 width, as the rims are wider than stock.
    How much do lowering springs affect the ride? I'd like a little less body roll...
    I'm not looking for a "handling" car but some corners frighten me and make passenger pale.

    15's would keep that classic old-school look and tire selection is okay. American racing outlaws, slot mags, centerline auto drags..

    Or I could go with some cool wheels in 17's or 18's. Kinda indifferent about torq thrusts.
    This pic of knucklehead's Vic was nice, those are 18's right? They don't even look that big.
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    Bigger wheels would offer more and cheaper tire options and would affect the handling in a somewhat positive way.
    Only con I can think of is tire clearance, I remember knucklehead mentioning some rub on his setup.

    Random pics I found and kinda liked:
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    1985 Mercury Grand Marquis LS
    1997 Volvo 850 GLE Estate

  12. #132
    The Brown Blob 87gtVIC's Avatar
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    The last three photos are definitely members cars. I liked the wheels on the tan vic ALOT. When he was parting/selling the car out (yes it came to that)I wanted the wheels bad. Then I was ghosted. lol
    ~David~

    My 1987 Crown Victoria Coupe: The Brown Blob
    My 2004 Mercedes Benz E320:The Benz

    Quote Originally Posted by DerekTheGreat View Post
    But, that's just coming from me, this site's biggest pessimist. Best of luck

  13. #133
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    A heavy rear sway bar will flatten out the ride without making it harsh. any sway is better than no sway. If you go too big on the rear you might need to upsize the front so the car is balanced in a slide rather then too much over or understeer.
    "X" car 89 Colony Park LS Mods>Engine delete, SS duals magnaflow hflow cats, 2010 Must GT mufflers, auto air shocks, Posi, Tran cooler, big front brakes, 03+ rear disks, Large 3g alt, Tripminder, GS grill, 86 seats, 16" HPP wheels, winter boots=96 Cartier wheels, 215-65/16 Goodyear ULTRA GW3 snows, pi rear sway, alum driveshaft.
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  14. #134
    Beater gonna beat sly's Avatar
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    Random shut offs are usually grounding issues or flaky connectors. Had that issue with the TFI module connector on the Mad Marquis (88 MGM) I used to have and fixed it by pushing it full on and putting a zip tie around the clip to force it back into shape flush against the module instead of bowed out a little which allowed the connector to slip off just enough to make the connections not very good.

    Only two things are infinite, the universe and human stupidity, and I'm not sure about the former. -- Albert Einstein
    rides: 93 Crown Vic LX (The Red Velvet Cake), 2000 Crown Vic base model (Sandy), 2003 Expedition (the vacation beast)
    Quote Originally Posted by gadget73
    ... and it should all work like magic and unicorns and stuff.
    Quote Originally Posted by dmccaig
    Overhead, some poor bastards are flying in airplanes.

  15. #135
    I'm an air-conditioned gypsy gadget73's Avatar
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    Not a fan of small wheels with big tires. Its like driving on marshmallows. These things wallow enough, don't need a big mushy sidewall to make it worse.

    86 Lincoln Town Car (Galactica).
    5.0 HO, CompCams XE258,Scorpion 1.72 roller rockers, 3.55 K code rear, tow package, BHPerformance ported E7 heads, Tmoss Explorer intake, 65mm throttle body, Hedman 1 5/8" headers, 2.5" dual exhaust, ASP underdrive pulley

    91 Lincoln Mark VII LSC SE, triple black (Timewarp) - poly front bushings, KYB struts and shocks, Holley SystemMax1 lower intake, SilverFox AOD valve body,

    1984 Lincoln Continental TurboDiesel - rolls coal

    Quote Originally Posted by phayzer5 View Post
    I drive a Lincoln. I can't be bothered to shift like the peasants and rabble rousers

  16. #136
    Member Arquemann's Avatar
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    Things circle back around to the rear sway bar, as I expected.
    I don't have one and acquiring one might be a bit harder. Or the shipping will cost a fortune.
    A stock rear would pair up nicely with the stock front bar? Or a police rear bar/whatever preferrable?

    Also there's like 3 sets of american racing outlaws with correct bolt pattern for sale in Finland, cheap too. I guess those things are out of style nowadays. Perfect for me since I'm always out of style!
    1985 Mercury Grand Marquis LS
    1997 Volvo 850 GLE Estate

  17. #137
    I'm an air-conditioned gypsy gadget73's Avatar
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    anything in the back is better than nothing. These cars tend to understeer somewhat anyway so you can get away with the larger rear bar and a stock front one. Huge bar up front and nothing in the back makes them plow really bad in a turn. The problem is just finding any of them now. There isn't anything remarkable about these things. I'm surprised there isn't an aftermarket source of something, even if it was semi-generic with some janky brackets to make it work. Not exactly sure how the GM B body stuff mounts in the back, but maybe even one of those could be adapted.

    86 Lincoln Town Car (Galactica).
    5.0 HO, CompCams XE258,Scorpion 1.72 roller rockers, 3.55 K code rear, tow package, BHPerformance ported E7 heads, Tmoss Explorer intake, 65mm throttle body, Hedman 1 5/8" headers, 2.5" dual exhaust, ASP underdrive pulley

    91 Lincoln Mark VII LSC SE, triple black (Timewarp) - poly front bushings, KYB struts and shocks, Holley SystemMax1 lower intake, SilverFox AOD valve body,

    1984 Lincoln Continental TurboDiesel - rolls coal

    Quote Originally Posted by phayzer5 View Post
    I drive a Lincoln. I can't be bothered to shift like the peasants and rabble rousers

  18. #138
    Member Arquemann's Avatar
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    Are all box rear sway bars similar dimensions?
    Sedan, coupe, wagon and LTC?
    I'm guessing aeros and whales are different.

    Also are the rear sway bars mounted to the axle with the end links on the frame or vice versa?
    Last edited by Arquemann; 06-08-2020 at 02:27 AM.
    1985 Mercury Grand Marquis LS
    1997 Volvo 850 GLE Estate

  19. #139
    Road Warrior Kodachrome Wolf's Avatar
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    Aeros and Whales have end links that mount to the frame and then attach to the sway bar. Boxes used a sway bar that attached to each control arm.

    My Cars:
    -1987 Grand Marquis Colony Park LS (325K Miles) - April 2017 + September 2019 POTM Winner
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  20. #140
    I'm an air-conditioned gypsy gadget73's Avatar
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    box rear suspension is the same no matter what the body was. There are 2 bars that I know of, the skinny and the fat. Both bolt up the same. Only real trick is that some cars have the holes in the rear control arms, some do not. Nothing you can't fix with a hole-maker but just be aware of it. There are spacers that sit inside the arm so the bolts don't flatten it, but they can be subbed with bits of pipe or solid bar with a hole drilled through and cut to the right length.

    fat bar, taxi/police/HD 1 1/16" D9AZ-5A772-C or E7AZ-5A772-B
    skinny bar, 11/16" D9AZ-5A772-A or E7AZ-5A772-A

    86 Lincoln Town Car (Galactica).
    5.0 HO, CompCams XE258,Scorpion 1.72 roller rockers, 3.55 K code rear, tow package, BHPerformance ported E7 heads, Tmoss Explorer intake, 65mm throttle body, Hedman 1 5/8" headers, 2.5" dual exhaust, ASP underdrive pulley

    91 Lincoln Mark VII LSC SE, triple black (Timewarp) - poly front bushings, KYB struts and shocks, Holley SystemMax1 lower intake, SilverFox AOD valve body,

    1984 Lincoln Continental TurboDiesel - rolls coal

    Quote Originally Posted by phayzer5 View Post
    I drive a Lincoln. I can't be bothered to shift like the peasants and rabble rousers

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