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Thread: My '85 MGM, "Maisa"

  1. #161
    The Brown Blob 87gtVIC's Avatar
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    Bummer on the weatherstripping. I am happy with my results, especially after wasting hundreds on NOS pieces that turned out to be dried out turds within a years time before trying the WC3396.

    The window guide rod bushings can be found....these should work:

    https://lmr.com/item/LRS-22292A/88-9...or-Convertible

    May have to fully remove it for install. Been quite some time since I did this.

    I think on my vic the guide rod bushings were different top to bottom. My car is a two door done know if that changed anything for comparisons sake. I am fairly sure I just replaced it with two of the same that I could find like a above.

    Visually it appears as if you would have used two of the same....based on hole size. Cannot comment about rear doors..dont have any.


    EDIT: more info here from yesteryear...http://www.grandmarq.net/vb/showthre...g-Installation

    Mustangs unlimited is now out of business....hence no links work in the linked thread above.
    Last edited by 87gtVIC; 07-18-2020 at 03:02 PM.
    ~David~

    My 1987 Crown Victoria Coupe: The Brown Blob
    My 2004 Mercedes Benz E320:The Benz

    Quote Originally Posted by DerekTheGreat View Post
    But, that's just coming from me, this site's biggest pessimist. Best of luck

  2. #162
    Member Arquemann's Avatar
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    I don't need any for my rear windows, but as I need to open the right rear anyways because the window stopped working, I wanted to make sure that the rear bushings are the same were I to make my own or get ones 3d printed.

    Looking at the picture I took, the top one looks slightly rectangular, but not as much as the "rectangular ones" in the linked thread. The bottom one looks to be about the same.
    Brown_Muscle said the square ones fit his 4d and the rectangulars didn't. You linked the rectangular ones here.
    LMR has a 4-pack of the square ones 17.99 vs the 9.99 for one of the rectangulars you've linked.

    I dunno maaan...
    If I can figure which I actually need I might try to wrangle with LMR to get them shipped internationally, versus carving my own out of a block of plastic or getting some 3d printed. It's a simple shape that can be made in 3d easily without expensive 3d scanning. Making them myself would give some "creative freedom" to make it easier to carve out and install: it's a piece of plastic with a hole in it and it needs to go around a hole in a metal bracket and stay there.

    On monday I'll pop into a couple local industrial stores if could get some plastic pipe with a fitting outer diameter for the door strikers. ID isn't as important as I can drill out the pipe or wrap tape around the striker pin if need be. I'd like to diy and probably save money on those since LMR doesn't have international shipping. Also I definitely wouldn't worry about slamming doors if my hinge bushings can be fixed with 50 cents worth of pipe

    I'll still have to do a highway test with the new window channels, and preferrably with intact striker bushings so that won't affect things.
    1985 Mercury Grand Marquis LS
    1997 Volvo 850 GLE Estate

  3. #163
    The Brown Blob 87gtVIC's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Arquemann View Post
    I don't need any for my rear windows, but as I need to open the right rear anyways because the window stopped working, I wanted to make sure that the rear bushings are the same were I to make my own or get ones 3d printed.

    Looking at the picture I took, the top one looks slightly rectangular, but not as much as the "rectangular ones" in the linked thread. The bottom one looks to be about the same.
    Brown_Muscle said the square ones fit his 4d and the rectangulars didn't. You linked the rectangular ones here.
    LMR has a 4-pack of the square ones 17.99 vs the 9.99 for one of the rectangulars you've linked.
    I didnt even notice that the singular one I linked was rectangular. In my head I thought it was a single square one (quick glance and it looked square to me) and was bummed that they only sold the square ones. lol Reading.....


    Maybe other outlets produce these things as well as the strikers and ship overseas? I just reference LMR as it is quick and easy for me to find.
    ~David~

    My 1987 Crown Victoria Coupe: The Brown Blob
    My 2004 Mercedes Benz E320:The Benz

    Quote Originally Posted by DerekTheGreat View Post
    But, that's just coming from me, this site's biggest pessimist. Best of luck

  4. #164
    I'm an air-conditioned gypsy gadget73's Avatar
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    If you use the Ford OE number it will probably turn up some source that will ship to you there. I'd be very surprised if there are no sources of Mustang parts for EU owners.

    86 Lincoln Town Car (Galactica).
    5.0 HO, CompCams XE258,Scorpion 1.72 roller rockers, 3.55 K code rear, tow package, BHPerformance ported E7 heads, Tmoss Explorer intake, 65mm throttle body, Hedman 1 5/8" headers, 2.5" dual exhaust, ASP underdrive pulley

    91 Lincoln Mark VII LSC SE, triple black (Timewarp) - poly front bushings, KYB struts and shocks, Holley SystemMax1 lower intake, SilverFox AOD valve body,

    1984 Lincoln Continental TurboDiesel - rolls coal

    Quote Originally Posted by phayzer5 View Post
    I drive a Lincoln. I can't be bothered to shift like the peasants and rabble rousers

  5. #165
    Member Arquemann's Avatar
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    The part no. brings up a nice selection of sellers, even one in France! I can't order in french though
    Atleast a couple have international shipping.
    LMR's 4-pack is priced competitively and two of those would be enough to fix all of them.

    E3AZ-5422362-A being the square one, that's the one I need right?
    1985 Mercury Grand Marquis LS
    1997 Volvo 850 GLE Estate

  6. #166
    Member Arquemann's Avatar
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    I'm looking to buy the door striker bushings and the window guide bushings at the same time. Foxresto.com has fair prices and most importantly, seems to offer international shipping
    My pipe hunt failed miserably and the washers don't come off the striker bolts. As discovered by many others on foxbody and other forums. Though there's that one guy saying just hit it with a hammer...

    So I need new strikers, I just want confirmation that the mustangs post and guard/hook style will work with my car.
    Gadget said this a while back...
    Quote Originally Posted by gadget73 View Post
    My 86 were post-only. Later ones are the hooky kind. There might be 2 different thread sizes but I won't swear to that. Something is tickling my memories and saying I tried using a striker from something on something else and the threaded bit didn't match up. Couldn't tell you any more than that.
    I'm assuming the hook is just a visual thing. The doors or latch mechanisms wouldn't have changed right?
    1985 Mercury Grand Marquis LS
    1997 Volvo 850 GLE Estate

  7. #167
    I'm an air-conditioned gypsy gadget73's Avatar
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    I've used both the hook and non-hook type on the same car. Doesn't seem to bother anything. The latch did not change so far as I know. I don't honestly know what the purpose of the hook is.

    86 Lincoln Town Car (Galactica).
    5.0 HO, CompCams XE258,Scorpion 1.72 roller rockers, 3.55 K code rear, tow package, BHPerformance ported E7 heads, Tmoss Explorer intake, 65mm throttle body, Hedman 1 5/8" headers, 2.5" dual exhaust, ASP underdrive pulley

    91 Lincoln Mark VII LSC SE, triple black (Timewarp) - poly front bushings, KYB struts and shocks, Holley SystemMax1 lower intake, SilverFox AOD valve body,

    1984 Lincoln Continental TurboDiesel - rolls coal

    Quote Originally Posted by phayzer5 View Post
    I drive a Lincoln. I can't be bothered to shift like the peasants and rabble rousers

  8. #168
    Member WagonMan's Avatar
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    The washers DO come off, they unscrew off the threads! WagonMan
    1990 Colony Park
    1970 HEMI Superbird

  9. #169
    Member Arquemann's Avatar
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    4 window guides and 4 complete strikers ordered from CJ pony parts. The beforementioned foxresto.com wanted $75 for shipping, no thanks. CJPP did with $43.

    And WagonMan, the washers don't come off on these atleast. I tried.
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    1985 Mercury Grand Marquis LS
    1997 Volvo 850 GLE Estate

  10. #170
    The Brown Blob 87gtVIC's Avatar
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    There are different type of strikers...Some come off and some do not. Why?.who the hell knows.
    ~David~

    My 1987 Crown Victoria Coupe: The Brown Blob
    My 2004 Mercedes Benz E320:The Benz

    Quote Originally Posted by DerekTheGreat View Post
    But, that's just coming from me, this site's biggest pessimist. Best of luck

  11. #171
    Member Arquemann's Avatar
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    I got impatient waiting for the strikers, so I made a couple of temporary ones from garden hose and duct tape, hose was just slightly smaller ID than the striker bolt, so I cut a slit in it and slid it over, held in place with duct tape.
    Doors shut better, but not as well as with the proper bushings. We'll see if they last till I get the real ones from across the pond.
    The strikers are marked as "ships in 5-7 days" on CJponyparts. Order status shows that one of four ordered has been received, ordered 8 days ago. And ofcourse they won't send the window bushes separately.

    Front passenger doors power lock has been uncooperative every now and then. The lock cylinder is pretty stiff with a key, and today the power lock tab on the door panel didn't even flinch when I hit the lock/unlock buttons, but does move with key. The power lock actuator is functioning.
    I'll be opening up the door again sometime soon I guess, a thorough greasing is necessary it seems.
    1985 Mercury Grand Marquis LS
    1997 Volvo 850 GLE Estate

  12. #172
    I'm an air-conditioned gypsy gadget73's Avatar
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    its usually the actuator getting stiff. The rubber boot fails and it gets water inside. If its not seized you can probably pull it and get enough lube in there to save it. Maybe. I'd probably go for light oil to make sure it gets down inside and work it to make sure any rust is out of the thing. If its real bad you can pop the retaining clip off, remove the cup, try to not lose the 3 balls that sit under the cup, and then pull the rod out to get access to spray down inside the actuator.

    86 Lincoln Town Car (Galactica).
    5.0 HO, CompCams XE258,Scorpion 1.72 roller rockers, 3.55 K code rear, tow package, BHPerformance ported E7 heads, Tmoss Explorer intake, 65mm throttle body, Hedman 1 5/8" headers, 2.5" dual exhaust, ASP underdrive pulley

    91 Lincoln Mark VII LSC SE, triple black (Timewarp) - poly front bushings, KYB struts and shocks, Holley SystemMax1 lower intake, SilverFox AOD valve body,

    1984 Lincoln Continental TurboDiesel - rolls coal

    Quote Originally Posted by phayzer5 View Post
    I drive a Lincoln. I can't be bothered to shift like the peasants and rabble rousers

  13. #173
    2 decades of DDing Box Panthers, now in a Whale VicCrownVic's Avatar
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    +1, actuator.
    That's the reason on my last 3 boxes ('89, The Ice Car, The Scab) I just removed the actuators and had manual locks up front. It's really fun when they freeze in the winter due to the reason gadget mentioned.
    Vic

    ~ 1998 Mercury Grand Marquis LS - new DD
    ~ 1991 Mercury Grand Marquis LS "The Scab" - plenty of rot, summer DD
    ~ 1997 GMC Yukon - wannabe winter DD - returning summer 2020, I finally have an engine
    ~ 1991 Mercury Grand Marquis GS "The Ice Car" - My rotting winter DD
    ~ 1989 Mercury Grand Marquis GS - Rotting Retired DD
    Gone but not forgotten:
    ~ 1988 Country Squire ~ 1987 Ford Crown Vic

  14. #174
    Member Arquemann's Avatar
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    Like I mentioned in the off topic thread, I now had to try out the dog dishes my dad had on the Tbird (originally from a '62 Ranch Wagon we had)
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    Those on and a coil or two chopped off each corner and I'd be set.

    I like it quite a bit, doesn't look as conflicting with the granny trim and vinyl top as I thought.
    Those first 2 pic are just the Tbirds steelies rolled next to it, as those are almost black and have the nubs for the dog dishes. Didn't expect to have those on the MGM's steelies anyways.
    Last pic I quickly mocked up the cap on the original steelie. I had the backing thingy / lockbolt mount off as I welded the square nut back on it.

    Can't attach dog dishes on my steelies, Tbird's steelies need new tires. I guess I have to shell out money either way.
    1985 Mercury Grand Marquis LS
    1997 Volvo 850 GLE Estate

  15. #175
    Member Arquemann's Avatar
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    I think I want to revert back to the original style amber parking lights in the blinker housings.

    How should I go about accessing the headlight wiring and bulb sockets?
    The sealed beam housings and adjustments seem kinda crusty...
    Could the sockets be accessed from below?
    The other header panel I had had one wire snipped that went to the blinker sockets. Current parking lights are separate bulbs in the low beam housings, which is good as I can just unplug those.

    Also my front bumper is pushed in a bit on one side. Any real strategy for getting it slid out again? These have those 5mph shock absorber things right?
    1985 Mercury Grand Marquis LS
    1997 Volvo 850 GLE Estate

  16. #176
    The Brown Blob 87gtVIC's Avatar
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    There is a pinch bolt holding the “bumper shock” To the frame rails. You can loosen that and try to pull out the bumper.

    I’d wager the bumper likely took a memory to the new shape and is bent too. May need to hook it up to something solid and gently drive the car away from it to pull out. Sketchy.
    ~David~

    My 1987 Crown Victoria Coupe: The Brown Blob
    My 2004 Mercedes Benz E320:The Benz

    Quote Originally Posted by DerekTheGreat View Post
    But, that's just coming from me, this site's biggest pessimist. Best of luck

  17. #177
    Beater gonna beat sly's Avatar
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    I didn't need to bend anything out when replacing the bumpers on my 93. I did have to put the mounts in first and then mount the bumper to them.

    Only two things are infinite, the universe and human stupidity, and I'm not sure about the former. -- Albert Einstein
    rides: 93 Crown Vic LX (The Red Velvet Cake), 2000 Crown Vic base model (Sandy), 2003 Expedition (the vacation beast)
    Quote Originally Posted by gadget73
    ... and it should all work like magic and unicorns and stuff.
    Quote Originally Posted by dmccaig
    Overhead, some poor bastards are flying in airplanes.

  18. #178
    Member WagonMan's Avatar
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    I have knocked a lot of bumper shocks out to there original positions. I have a 6" X 6" X 20" block of wood that I smack against the outer bumper edge forcing the shock out again. SLACK came to my house to buy bumper shocks and I simply knocked his back out again. Just be sure to catch the end of the bumper and not hit the fender! LOL! WagonMan
    1990 Colony Park
    1970 HEMI Superbird

  19. #179
    Beater gonna beat sly's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by WagonMan View Post
    I have knocked a lot of bumper shocks out to there original positions. I have a 6" X 6" X 20" block of wood that I smack against the outer bumper edge forcing the shock out again. SLACK came to my house to buy bumper shocks and I simply knocked his back out again. Just be sure to catch the end of the bumper and not hit the fender! LOL! WagonMan
    I've done this too, on the 88 I used to have, but I use a 4 pound hammer directly on the mount plate on the bumper shock. Took about 4 hits to get it back out the inch or so it had been pushed in.

    Only two things are infinite, the universe and human stupidity, and I'm not sure about the former. -- Albert Einstein
    rides: 93 Crown Vic LX (The Red Velvet Cake), 2000 Crown Vic base model (Sandy), 2003 Expedition (the vacation beast)
    Quote Originally Posted by gadget73
    ... and it should all work like magic and unicorns and stuff.
    Quote Originally Posted by dmccaig
    Overhead, some poor bastards are flying in airplanes.

  20. #180
    I'm an air-conditioned gypsy gadget73's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Arquemann View Post
    I think I want to revert back to the original style amber parking lights in the blinker housings.

    How should I go about accessing the headlight wiring and bulb sockets?
    The sealed beam housings and adjustments seem kinda crusty...
    Could the sockets be accessed from below?
    The other header panel I had had one wire snipped that went to the blinker sockets. Current parking lights are separate bulbs in the low beam housings, which is good as I can just unplug those.
    easiest way is to just remove the headlights. Pull the outer bezel then the 4 screws holding the trim ring to the bucket. The lamp will fall out and the wiring will be in your hands at that point. I don't think there is quite enough room on the Ford/Merc models to get your hand in there to unplug it.

    Put some oil on the adjuster screws (which do not need to be moved in order to remove the headlamp or the bezel) before trying to adjust them. They turn into a plastic thing so its not likely stuck but if the screws are dry and dirty it makes it much more difficult to actually turn them.

    86 Lincoln Town Car (Galactica).
    5.0 HO, CompCams XE258,Scorpion 1.72 roller rockers, 3.55 K code rear, tow package, BHPerformance ported E7 heads, Tmoss Explorer intake, 65mm throttle body, Hedman 1 5/8" headers, 2.5" dual exhaust, ASP underdrive pulley

    91 Lincoln Mark VII LSC SE, triple black (Timewarp) - poly front bushings, KYB struts and shocks, Holley SystemMax1 lower intake, SilverFox AOD valve body,

    1984 Lincoln Continental TurboDiesel - rolls coal

    Quote Originally Posted by phayzer5 View Post
    I drive a Lincoln. I can't be bothered to shift like the peasants and rabble rousers

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