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Thread: My '85 MGM, "Maisa"

  1. #181
    Lost and driftin' Arquemann's Avatar
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    I got the parts today, started installing the new strikers.

    Now I've got a bit of a problem...
    The door shut too "deep" with the new striker and it's not opening.

    It's not locked, the handle has tension and I tried pushing against the door and pressing it up and down while trying to open it.
    I put the new striker in about the same location the old one was in, pretty middle, though I suspect the latch in the door has been adjusted aswell before.

    The latch adjustment is done from the doorjamb... How the hell do I open the door?
    Can I get things loosened from inside the door? I need to remove the door panel anyways.
    1985 Mercury Grand Marquis LS
    1997 Volvo 850 GLE Estate

  2. #182
    Member WagonMan's Avatar
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    Try opening it from the inside. Pull the handle and shove hard with your shoulder against the door. WagonMan
    1990 Colony Park
    1970 HEMI Superbird

  3. #183
    2 decades of DDing Box Panthers, now in a Whale VicCrownVic's Avatar
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    Can't say that I've run into this myself, as far as I recall.
    My guess is the "fingers" of the latch may be biting into the new striker bushing and getting stuck. Perhaps repeated hitting of the door (non-damaging/non-denting of course) with the handle in the open position might jar the "fingers" loose. Pulling the handle harder is not something I would recommend, as tempting as that may seem.
    Vic

    ~ 1998 Mercury Grand Marquis LS - new DD
    ~ 1991 Mercury Grand Marquis LS "The Scab" - plenty of rot, summer DD
    ~ 1997 GMC Yukon - wannabe winter DD - returning summer 2020, I finally have an engine
    ~ 1991 Mercury Grand Marquis GS "The Ice Car" - Rotting Retired Winter DD
    ~ 1989 Mercury Grand Marquis GS - Rotting Retired DD
    Gone but not forgotten:
    ~ 1988 Country Squire ~ 1987 Ford Crown Vic

  4. #184
    Lost and driftin' Arquemann's Avatar
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    What a PITA.
    Even managed to jam my foot into the sharp edges of a trailer while fumbling with the door.

    I somehow failed to mention that it was the right rear door that decided to be a dick, even though I remember writing it.

    Anyways, shoulder shoving the door from the inside worked, but only after I loosened the hinges to relieve some of the tension.
    I don't think it's an adjustment problem, I tried moving it around alot, even checked with different amounts of shims and made sure nothing was catching the black hook thing. It ought to be more like something what Vic said. (the rear door needs some more front-to-back adjustment still, didn't quite get it back right)

    The door easily catches the wind catch / whatever, but is really hard to shut properly, and subsequently get really hard to open.

    With the new bushings, the front doors shut and open pretty mint, the rear left shuts nice too but requries quite a bit more effort to the handle.
    Could it just be that the bushing digs into the latch too hard? Tomorrow I'll try and jam the removed new striker into the door latch and see what's going on.
    1985 Mercury Grand Marquis LS
    1997 Volvo 850 GLE Estate

  5. #185
    2 decades of DDing Box Panthers, now in a Whale VicCrownVic's Avatar
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    That sounds like a good plan to get a better view of what is going on. I suppose the OD of the new bushings might be at the high end of the tolerable range, especially that right rear. If you have the old striker available, even without a bushing, do the same with it since I assume there was not a problem releasing the latch with the old striker. That might also give you some insight on how the latch kicks unlatched and how/where it is catching on the new striker/bushing.
    Vic

    ~ 1998 Mercury Grand Marquis LS - new DD
    ~ 1991 Mercury Grand Marquis LS "The Scab" - plenty of rot, summer DD
    ~ 1997 GMC Yukon - wannabe winter DD - returning summer 2020, I finally have an engine
    ~ 1991 Mercury Grand Marquis GS "The Ice Car" - Rotting Retired Winter DD
    ~ 1989 Mercury Grand Marquis GS - Rotting Retired DD
    Gone but not forgotten:
    ~ 1988 Country Squire ~ 1987 Ford Crown Vic

  6. #186
    2 decades of DDing Box Panthers, now in a Whale VicCrownVic's Avatar
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    Although, if the old striker did not have a bushing and the door alignment was good with the old striker, perhaps the new striker should be adjusted a hair down from where the old striker was mounted. My thought is that the new one with bushing mounted in the same spot might be putting more tension on the upper finger of the latch causing it to not want to move, and lowing it a hair might relieve that tension (as long as there is room to not introduce too much tension on the lower latch finger, i.e. bushing OD is not at the high end of the tolerance range).
    Vic

    ~ 1998 Mercury Grand Marquis LS - new DD
    ~ 1991 Mercury Grand Marquis LS "The Scab" - plenty of rot, summer DD
    ~ 1997 GMC Yukon - wannabe winter DD - returning summer 2020, I finally have an engine
    ~ 1991 Mercury Grand Marquis GS "The Ice Car" - Rotting Retired Winter DD
    ~ 1989 Mercury Grand Marquis GS - Rotting Retired DD
    Gone but not forgotten:
    ~ 1988 Country Squire ~ 1987 Ford Crown Vic

  7. #187
    I'm an air-conditioned gypsy gadget73's Avatar
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    sounds like alignment problems. The door should be flush front and back, and the gap should also be even. If the hinge is bent, worn, or misadjusted it won't work right. Also quite honestly some of these cars are a little tweaked and the doors end up a little bit screwy looking in order for the latch to operate. I had to lose a fender and a door from some asshole backing into my car in order to get my driver's door completely right. Somehow in the process it tweaked the pillar in a favorable way and now everything lines up and works nicely.

    86 Lincoln Town Car (Galactica).
    5.0 HO, CompCams XE258,Scorpion 1.72 roller rockers, 3.55 K code rear, tow package, BHPerformance ported E7 heads, Tmoss Explorer intake, 65mm throttle body, Hedman 1 5/8" headers, 2.5" dual exhaust, ASP underdrive pulley

    91 Lincoln Mark VII LSC SE, triple black (Timewarp) - poly front bushings, KYB struts and shocks, Holley SystemMax1 lower intake, SilverFox AOD valve body,

    1984 Lincoln Continental TurboDiesel - rolls coal

    Quote Originally Posted by phayzer5 View Post
    I drive a Lincoln. I can't be bothered to shift like the peasants and rabble rousers

  8. #188
    The Brown Blob 87gtVIC's Avatar
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    Right rear door is statistically used the least. Lube up the latch. Can’t hurt. May make things slide loose for you.
    ~David~

    My 1987 Crown Victoria Coupe: The Brown Blob
    My 2004 Mercedes Benz E320:The Benz

    Quote Originally Posted by DerekTheGreat View Post
    But, that's just coming from me, this site's biggest pessimist. Best of luck

  9. #189
    Lost and driftin' Arquemann's Avatar
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    The bushing is a bit too large. It's about half a mil thicker than the others.
    I was barely able to push the striker into the the latch by hand. It just about locks in fully. And when I pull the handle, nothing happens.
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    Adjusted the door slightly more, it sits pretty well, gap between door is even, but a little small as the rear door slightly touches the door ding strips. The window frame at the top is a bit crooked but the bottom of the door is pretty good? Yeah whatever none of the door have fit perfectly anyways.
    The back of the rear door is adjusted well now too

    I put some oil on the latch fingers (couldn't find grease yet), then I held the inside handle open and yanked the door shut a few dozen times.
    I'm now able to pull the door open two-handed from the outside.
    Probably should remove the striker one more time and sand it down a bit.

    Every time I fix something, I break something it seems.
    As I was adjusting the door by the hinges (with a mallet and piece of wood) I think I caused some weird tension or something in the hinges. I managed to break one of the hinge-to-body bolts. The bolt snapped scary easily and the hinge shifted.
    Fucken' amateur hour... Atleast it's drillable.
    1985 Mercury Grand Marquis LS
    1997 Volvo 850 GLE Estate

  10. #190
    The Brown Blob 87gtVIC's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Arquemann View Post
    The bushing is a bit too large. It's about half a mil thicker than the others.
    I was barely able to push the striker into the the latch by hand. It just about locks in fully. And when I pull the handle, nothing happens.
    Click image for larger version. 

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    Adjusted the door slightly more, it sits pretty well, gap between door is even, but a little small as the rear door slightly touches the door ding strips. The window frame at the top is a bit crooked but the bottom of the door is pretty good? Yeah whatever none of the door have fit perfectly anyways.
    The back of the rear door is adjusted well now too

    I put some oil on the latch fingers (couldn't find grease yet), then I held the inside handle open and yanked the door shut a few dozen times.
    I'm now able to pull the door open two-handed from the outside.
    Probably should remove the striker one more time and sand it down a bit.

    Every time I fix something, I break something it seems.
    As I was adjusting the door by the hinges (with a mallet and piece of wood) I think I caused some weird tension or something in the hinges. I managed to break one of the hinge-to-body bolts. The bolt snapped scary easily and the hinge shifted.
    Fucken' amateur hour... Atleast it's drillable.
    I seen that after match of a broken hinge bolt before...then the broken tap stuck in it!
    ~David~

    My 1987 Crown Victoria Coupe: The Brown Blob
    My 2004 Mercedes Benz E320:The Benz

    Quote Originally Posted by DerekTheGreat View Post
    But, that's just coming from me, this site's biggest pessimist. Best of luck

  11. #191
    I'm an air-conditioned gypsy gadget73's Avatar
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    breaking a tap off is way worse than breaking a bolt.

    I think you might be able to remove the plate those screw into from inside the B pillar. I know Towncars have a removable plate in the A pillar, mostly because one of mine self-removed unintentionally at one point and it was a giant pain in the ass to fish it out of the pillar and then get it back in place. They have little hooks in the body that are meant to keep the plate in place, but I guess mine bent.

    86 Lincoln Town Car (Galactica).
    5.0 HO, CompCams XE258,Scorpion 1.72 roller rockers, 3.55 K code rear, tow package, BHPerformance ported E7 heads, Tmoss Explorer intake, 65mm throttle body, Hedman 1 5/8" headers, 2.5" dual exhaust, ASP underdrive pulley

    91 Lincoln Mark VII LSC SE, triple black (Timewarp) - poly front bushings, KYB struts and shocks, Holley SystemMax1 lower intake, SilverFox AOD valve body,

    1984 Lincoln Continental TurboDiesel - rolls coal

    Quote Originally Posted by phayzer5 View Post
    I drive a Lincoln. I can't be bothered to shift like the peasants and rabble rousers

  12. #192
    Lost and driftin' Arquemann's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by gadget73 View Post
    I think you might be able to remove the plate those screw into from inside the B pillar.
    Hopefully I don't have to go that far. The other 2 bolts ought to keep the plate in place while drilling the broken bolt. Though the bolt snapped pretty uneven so starting a hole might be tricky. It's on the lower hinge so I have good access to it straight on.

    My dad's bolt extractors are heavily used and still intact surprisingly. Though them being over 40 years old and made in the USSR may have something to do with it.

    Also I'm off to a swap meet tomorrow! We'll see if I can find anything dumb and/or useless
    1985 Mercury Grand Marquis LS
    1997 Volvo 850 GLE Estate

  13. #193
    I'm an air-conditioned gypsy gadget73's Avatar
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    was thinking if you can pull the plate, rather than having to drill the bolt out you can probably grab it from the back side and just spin it out.

    86 Lincoln Town Car (Galactica).
    5.0 HO, CompCams XE258,Scorpion 1.72 roller rockers, 3.55 K code rear, tow package, BHPerformance ported E7 heads, Tmoss Explorer intake, 65mm throttle body, Hedman 1 5/8" headers, 2.5" dual exhaust, ASP underdrive pulley

    91 Lincoln Mark VII LSC SE, triple black (Timewarp) - poly front bushings, KYB struts and shocks, Holley SystemMax1 lower intake, SilverFox AOD valve body,

    1984 Lincoln Continental TurboDiesel - rolls coal

    Quote Originally Posted by phayzer5 View Post
    I drive a Lincoln. I can't be bothered to shift like the peasants and rabble rousers

  14. #194
    Lost and driftin' Arquemann's Avatar
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    I've been feeling quite down lately, haven't gotten anything done anywhere.

    But today I went at the passenger front door lock.
    Click image for larger version. 

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    It's crusty, not really responding anymore. I put some oil down the shaft and moved it by hand.
    With the shaft unattached and the motor plugged in, it moves sometimes. Finding the sweet spot by hand and it might even go both ways.
    I can't be arsed to try and resuscitate it, since they're available from RA.


    Other thing I tackled is the crooked bumper.
    Loosened the pinch bolt and got the bumper loose quite easily. Locked the bumper straight with vice grips, since it had stayed slightly crooked for so long, it wouldn't cooperate without a little force.

    So I put back the pinch bolt and started tightening. It just goes and goes and goes. Three times as much threads visible vs driver side, the bumper is still loose. Won't go as far back as it was originally though, solid clunk, not just tension.
    I'm afraid that I'll crush the frame rail. Did something fall out of place or did something break?
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    That's how much it was crooked. Except for the spot where the edge had rubbed the paint, all the bumper fillers seem fine and unbroken, surprisingly.
    1985 Mercury Grand Marquis LS
    1997 Volvo 850 GLE Estate

  15. #195
    Lost and driftin' Arquemann's Avatar
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    I ended up putting a couple tack welds around the bumper "pipe". It stays in place now and will break the tacks if something bumps hard into it. I guess that's how it ought to work?
    Couldn't figure out what was supposed to be inside the frame to pinch the thing in place.

    Also opened the pass. rear door, since the window was stuck.
    Got it loosened by gently prying between the door frame and the regulator cog. I'll regrease it too before putting thing back together.
    I remember reading some other threads about window motors, about "barrel" and "pancake" motors. I don't remember what was supposed to be what, but I've got a "barrel" in this door atleast.
    Click image for larger version. 

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    2 quick questions.
    -Should I put some silicone spray or such in the window channels?
    -Is the back of the rear window channel supposed to slide up and down with the glass? 'Cause it does...
    1985 Mercury Grand Marquis LS
    1997 Volvo 850 GLE Estate

  16. #196
    all the CFI are belong to me
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    I can vouch for the "Ultra Power" lock actuators from Rock Auto - they will do the job nicely, and at the right price. They only include adequate rods to use for front doors, but with a little creativity you can use them for rears as needed too.

    (Ultra Power is a sort of house brand for a specific warehouse in Texas. The parts under that brand are from many different brands, or are "white box" generic parts.)

    I am not familiar with that aspect of bumper mounting so can't offer anything there.

    The skinny/pancake motors were introduced, if I recall correctly, as a partial year '89 change. You do have the barrel/chubby ones. Just as a side note, on some cars, there is a bolt hole misalignment that prevents installing the newer motor in the older car. I am not exactly sure of the applications that fit and those which don't...I think you can use either motor on an 89-91 but prior to the existence of the skinny motor you can't use them.

    On the rear doors, the rear piece of window channel is somehow integrated with the glass and slides with it. That is normal. It is weird, but normal.
    I use an automotive silicone spray on door seals, but I leave the window channels alone. I'm not sure what would happen if you used it on them. I suspect it would cause the window to be kind of greasy around the edge but it might help preserve the rubber somewhat. Hard to be sure.
    Last edited by kishy; 08-19-2020 at 11:03 AM.

    83 GM 2dr POTM 10/2019 | 84 TC POTM 1/2017 & 4/2019 | 85 CS | 85 Ranger +trlr | 86 GM | 91 GM POTM 12/2017 | Junkyards
    Gone: 97CV | 83 TC

  17. #197
    Lost and driftin' Arquemann's Avatar
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    As mentioned in the lowering thread I made, cutting the springs is a no go.

    This thing needs every single ball joint rubber. Upper ball joint seriously had an inch thick of crud on top of it.
    All the joints have grease fittings so I assume they aren't original?
    Trying to use said fittings ended up with the grease spewing out of everywhere, the rubbers are pretty shot.

    Also ordered an "ultra power" window lock motor and some door panel clips from RA. They ought to be here next week.

    Took off the hubcap mounting thingys, I'll try to clean up the original steelies tomorrow, maybe they'll be somewhat black under all that dirt and crap. I might get some brushable black paint if I get bored.
    Also had a stupid vision about spiked lugnuts, but those are actually pretty expensive...

    I might run the bare steelies for a while, even those look more "rock n roll" than the grandpa-spec wire hubcaps.
    The Tbirds steelies have too small of a center-bore, getting those enlarged would be about 160€, which is kinda high, not sure what to do with those yet.
    1985 Mercury Grand Marquis LS
    1997 Volvo 850 GLE Estate

  18. #198
    I'm an air-conditioned gypsy gadget73's Avatar
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    prob replaced if they have fittings. Do they have any slop at all? Put a jack under the lower control arm and lift the tire off the ground. If there is play the tire will rock top/bottom if really bad, or you might have to put a bar under the tire and pry up on it. If it moves, they're done. Considering the ball joint has to come out of the spindle to replace the boot, you're already most of the way to just replacing the thing anyway. Did that on my Continental, the joints were tight but no boots and it was being aligned anyway. Only lowers on that, but same basic process otherwise.

    86 Lincoln Town Car (Galactica).
    5.0 HO, CompCams XE258,Scorpion 1.72 roller rockers, 3.55 K code rear, tow package, BHPerformance ported E7 heads, Tmoss Explorer intake, 65mm throttle body, Hedman 1 5/8" headers, 2.5" dual exhaust, ASP underdrive pulley

    91 Lincoln Mark VII LSC SE, triple black (Timewarp) - poly front bushings, KYB struts and shocks, Holley SystemMax1 lower intake, SilverFox AOD valve body,

    1984 Lincoln Continental TurboDiesel - rolls coal

    Quote Originally Posted by phayzer5 View Post
    I drive a Lincoln. I can't be bothered to shift like the peasants and rabble rousers

  19. #199
    Lost and driftin' Arquemann's Avatar
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    They ought to be fine, car feels solid driving, wouldn't hurt to check.
    Also the car passed inspection just fine earlier this summer so they can't be that bad, otherwise you get a fix it- order.

    Yeah I decided against lowering the car now. I don't have the proper tools to remove the ball joints without damaging the boots more and the shocks are a bit of a mystery to remove.
    I might reconsider cutting the springs if I get to replacing the ball joints at some point. Still dreaming about a P71...
    Replacing the whole ball joints vs just the boots wouldn't necessarily be that much more work.
    Though they are riveted on, which confused me initially since they have grease fittings.

    Could do with new tie rods / tie rod end boots aswell, I managed to puncture the boot on the driver side by applying too much grease...
    1985 Mercury Grand Marquis LS
    1997 Volvo 850 GLE Estate

  20. #200
    I'm an air-conditioned gypsy gadget73's Avatar
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    I've seen a lot of ball joints checked with the suspension at full droop. They never show play that way, it has to be done with the suspension off the stops.


    The uppers I think did come with grease fittings originally. Unless someone changed the whole arm. The official Ford procedure is that when the ball joints are worn, you change the whole arm. The thinking is if you need ball joints, you need bushings too. I won't say they are wrong.

    86 Lincoln Town Car (Galactica).
    5.0 HO, CompCams XE258,Scorpion 1.72 roller rockers, 3.55 K code rear, tow package, BHPerformance ported E7 heads, Tmoss Explorer intake, 65mm throttle body, Hedman 1 5/8" headers, 2.5" dual exhaust, ASP underdrive pulley

    91 Lincoln Mark VII LSC SE, triple black (Timewarp) - poly front bushings, KYB struts and shocks, Holley SystemMax1 lower intake, SilverFox AOD valve body,

    1984 Lincoln Continental TurboDiesel - rolls coal

    Quote Originally Posted by phayzer5 View Post
    I drive a Lincoln. I can't be bothered to shift like the peasants and rabble rousers

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