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My '85 MGM, "Maisa"

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    When you set your expectations low as fuck, you'll be satisfied more often! I painted the valve covers.

    Let's see:
    -Dented, rusty and pitted valve covers that are greasier than a McDonalds next to a vape store.
    -Expertly removed a couple dents and created atleast as many more. Gouged the other one nicely aswell as I removed the spotwelded solenoid bracket.
    -Hour and a half of prepping with a rag, a wire brush, a strippin disc and paint stripper goop from 1993, fueled by Nekromantix, cheap beer and frustration.
    -An old can of some rust-stopper primer and 6,99€ can of general purpose gold spray paint. Might be incompatible paints, might not.
    -Painting outside on the windy and dusty driveway.
    -Getting runs in the primer means getting runs in the color coat doesn't annoy as much.

    They looked like absolute garbage with the primer spat on them, but the metallic gold "texture" actually hides the rust pitting pretty well all considered.
    Buuuut as if anyone is going the even see those valve covers under the million hoses and lines in the engine bay anyways.
    The shade isn't as orange in person:
    Click image for larger version

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    I guess I'll be reusing the factory heater hose fitting:
    Click image for larger version

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    The straight fitting looks dumb as shit, even though the hose ends up just as high with the 45° fitting.
    I'll be cleaning up that damn fitting aswell...
    1985 Mercury Grand Marquis LS, "Maisa"
    1995 Chevrolet Caprice Classic STW, "Sally"

    Comment


      I was thinking it was 25 for the stock aluminum intake into iron heads but its not a whole lot. The bolts are not big, but there are a lot of them. Making things tighter doesn't necessarily make them seal better anyway. Too much and it can bend the intake or smash the gasket and then you have a leak. The force needs to be evenly distributed across the whole line otherwise it doesn't work right.
      86 Lincoln Town Car (Galactica).
      5.0 HO, CompCams XE258,Scorpion 1.72 roller rockers, 3.55 K code rear, tow package, BHPerformance ported E7 heads, Tmoss Explorer intake, 65mm throttle body, Hedman 1 5/8" headers, 2.5" dual exhaust, ASP underdrive pulley

      91 Lincoln Mark VII LSC grandpa spec white and cranberry

      1984 Lincoln Continental TurboDiesel - rolls coal

      Originally posted by phayzer5
      I drive a Lincoln. I can't be bothered to shift like the peasants and rabble rousers

      Comment


        Okay, I might be able to make a perfect TV-solution, or I might lose my trans. Or I might've lost my sanity.
        So, the key factors of the engine side TV-rod mounting is the correct radius from the pivot point / throttle shaft to the ball stud AND being able to be adjusted minutely, independent of the throttle cable.

        My Holley is a relatively new unit, a Street Avenger series, and it has an extra linkage, which is by design for the C6 trans kickdown. This piece of linkage is separate from the throttle bracket, and an adjustment screw can be installed on the end (placeholder in the image)
        The lower hole on the kickdown linkage has the same radius as the factory TV-rod linkage, almost to the millimeter.

        Seemingly, if I installed the TV-rod in the lower hole (wrench in image), the rod's travel would be almost identical to the factory linkages. This isn't rocket science, just a pivot point and a certain radius.
        Full travel both ways, minute adjustment possible, only needs a separate return spring if the trans-side spring isn't enough.
        There's also a hole on the main throttle bracket that's very close to the same radius as on the factory CFI throttle.
        All I need is a couple ball studs.

        Why wouldn't it work!?

        If the AOD blows, I'm getting an AOD-E...
        Attached Files
        1985 Mercury Grand Marquis LS, "Maisa"
        1995 Chevrolet Caprice Classic STW, "Sally"

        Comment


          My understanding of the reason that traditional carb kickdown attachment points were historically considered no good for the AOD TV linkage was less about the correct radius, more about kickdown linkages not following the throttle through their full range of motion.

          That is, TV follows the throttle through its full arc, from closed to fully open.
          Whereas kickdown might not follow the throttle all the way down to closed, and hang out somewhere in the middle waiting for the throttle to open enough to begin actuating the kickdown linkage.

          This would cause one of two potential issues: either you'd compensate by setting the TV pressure at the kickdown linkage's "not actuated" position to be appropriate for mid-throttle, which would engage gears harshly and only upshift at high RPM,
          or
          TV would be too low for most of the throttle's travel and roast the transmission.

          I have no experience with this; it's just what my understanding was.
          If the setup you've got here does not have this issue, then I'd have to agree you're probably fine.

          Current driver: Ranger
          Panthers: 83 GM 2dr | 84 TC | 85 CS
          | 88 TC | 91 GM
          Not Panthers: 85 Ranger | Ranger trailer | 91 Acclaim | 05 Focus
          Gone: 97 CV | 83 TC | 04 Focus | 86 GM
          | Junkyards

          Comment


            Originally posted by kishy View Post
            My understanding of the reason that traditional carb kickdown attachment points were historically considered no good for the AOD TV linkage was less about the correct radius, more about kickdown linkages not following the throttle through their full range of motion.

            That is, TV follows the throttle through its full arc, from closed to fully open.
            Whereas kickdown might not follow the throttle all the way down to closed, and hang out somewhere in the middle waiting for the throttle to open enough to begin actuating the kickdown linkage.

            This would cause one of two potential issues: either you'd compensate by setting the TV pressure at the kickdown linkage's "not actuated" position to be appropriate for mid-throttle, which would engage gears harshly and only upshift at high RPM,
            or
            TV would be too low for most of the throttle's travel and roast the transmission.

            I have no experience with this; it's just what my understanding was.
            If the setup you've got here does not have this issue, then I'd have to agree you're probably fine.
            Initially the kickdown linkage is set up to move only after some throttle movement, but by adding the "adjustment screw", it does indeed follow the entire travel of the throttle.
            1985 Mercury Grand Marquis LS, "Maisa"
            1995 Chevrolet Caprice Classic STW, "Sally"

            Comment


              As long as full throttle = max TV lever travel and line pressure at idle is close to whatever it's supposed to be, I think you are fine in my opinion.
              The more traditional Ford lockdown doesn't start moving until well into the throttle, which is why they are no bueno for the AOD.
              1990 Country Squire - weekend cruiser, next project
              1988 Crown Vic LTD Wagon - waiting in the wings

              GMN Box Panther History
              Box Panther Horsepower and Torque Ratings
              Box Panther Production Numbers

              Comment


                yeah if it tracks I think you'll be fine. Honestly the usual cable that gets used is a pretty shitty piece of engineering so being able to use the factory rod would be my personal preference.
                86 Lincoln Town Car (Galactica).
                5.0 HO, CompCams XE258,Scorpion 1.72 roller rockers, 3.55 K code rear, tow package, BHPerformance ported E7 heads, Tmoss Explorer intake, 65mm throttle body, Hedman 1 5/8" headers, 2.5" dual exhaust, ASP underdrive pulley

                91 Lincoln Mark VII LSC grandpa spec white and cranberry

                1984 Lincoln Continental TurboDiesel - rolls coal

                Originally posted by phayzer5
                I drive a Lincoln. I can't be bothered to shift like the peasants and rabble rousers

                Comment


                  Today was some progress and some setbacks.
                  -I reused the factory heater hose to intake fitting, but it turns by hand to about 3/4 turns from where I need it. It get's too hard to turn for my sanity about 90° from where I want it... I've witnessed an intake go "TINK" and crack, and I don't want that to happen to me. Fucking tapered threads.
                  -Thermostat housing, manifold plugs, vacuum fittings, coolant temp sender installed.
                  -Studs, carb and heat insulator spacer installed. Fuel inlet fittings are currently with o-rings, but I'll change them to copper washers if they leak.
                  -Started running fuel lines, cut the factory steel lines in convenient spots and ran the T-piece and lines for the 2 fuel bowls on the Holley. Need to mount the pressure reg to finalize fuel line routing.
                  -Cleaned and painted the throttle cable & coil brackets.

                  -Apparenly those carb throttle ball studs w/ a 1/4" ball are such a rarity that I can't get them locally from any store. A guy off forums is sending me a couple so I don't have to buy from overseas.
                  -The AOD TV-rod doesn't quite reach the new stud spot, going from 2bbl to 4bbl and it being a bit higher, so it'll need some adjusting under the car, but now's not the time.
                  -Biggest setback so far: the hole on the factory air cleaner is larger than the spot for it on the holley. I'll see what I can do, I really want to stay with the stock cleaner. Also CAI, duh!
                  -Hood clearance is totally fine though.

                  Tomorrow I'll try to mount the fuel pressure reg, run lines. Reinstall valve cover and coil + bracket. I'll try to install the HEI module and heatsink on the coil bracket aswell.
                  I managed to buy the shop manuals for '85 Panther, which should be arriving tomorrow. Deal included a Ford OBD-1 scanner but I politely refused it due to somewhat obvious reasons.

                  The setup on this shit is gonna be a whole lotta work. First I gotta get it to run and idle, then I can set the timing, then I can set the idle mixture, then I'll have to adjust the AOD. When all of that is kosher, I can start actually driving and tuning the carb jetting.

                  Does the throttle cable have any adjustment?
                  1985 Mercury Grand Marquis LS, "Maisa"
                  1995 Chevrolet Caprice Classic STW, "Sally"

                  Comment


                    Yeah... tapered threads... I always use sealing tape on those with a torque wrench. When it clicks, I stop... no matter how it "looks".

                    Every stock throttle cable I've seen has the adjustment at the mounting bracket clip. That cable has various fins that you can slide in and out to mount the cable at different locations within about an inch (~25mm). If it doesn't have that and is a single slot, it may not have any adjustment and just require bending said bracket to the point desired.

                    Only two things are infinite, the universe and human stupidity, and I'm not sure about the former. -- Albert Einstein
                    rides: 93 Crown Vic LX (The Red Velvet Cake), 2000 Crown Vic base model (Sandy), 2003 Expedition (the vacation beast)
                    Originally posted by gadget73
                    ... and it should all work like magic and unicorns and stuff.
                    Originally posted by dmccaig
                    Overhead, some poor bastards are flying in airplanes.

                    Comment


                      If the intake was not yet installed I am curious if tapping the hole deeper would allow you to get the fitting to both seal and be in the proper orientation.
                      ~David~

                      My 1987 Crown Victoria Coupe: The Brown Blob
                      My 2004 Mercedes Benz E320:The Benz

                      Originally posted by ootdega
                      My life is a long series of "nevermind" and "I guess not."

                      Originally posted by DerekTheGreat
                      But, that's just coming from me, this site's biggest pessimist. Best of luck

                      Originally posted by gadget73
                      my car starts and it has AC. Yours doesn't start and it has no AC. Seems obvious to me.




                      Comment


                        Yeah I'll reinstall the throttle cable bracket tomorrow and see how it lines up, it seemed a bit wonky when I mocked the cable up to the linkage today, without the bracket.

                        Dunno about the heater hose fitting... Some folks on the internet say it could go for a turn after finger tight, but man it feels bad. I have silicone RTV applied to the threads, it isn't nearly as restrictive as pipe dope. But it can't stay like it currently is, I can just weeblewooble it tighter and looser with jus my fingers, since it's a 45° and it offers just that bit of leverage.
                        The other choice is the straight new fitting I have, but it looks dumb as hell (see post #616, previous page)
                        1985 Mercury Grand Marquis LS, "Maisa"
                        1995 Chevrolet Caprice Classic STW, "Sally"

                        Comment


                          Taper threads into aluminum you have to be careful with. they can split the intake if you go too nuts with it. If you can turn it by hand, its not tight enough.

                          tapping it deeper will change where it fetches up at.
                          86 Lincoln Town Car (Galactica).
                          5.0 HO, CompCams XE258,Scorpion 1.72 roller rockers, 3.55 K code rear, tow package, BHPerformance ported E7 heads, Tmoss Explorer intake, 65mm throttle body, Hedman 1 5/8" headers, 2.5" dual exhaust, ASP underdrive pulley

                          91 Lincoln Mark VII LSC grandpa spec white and cranberry

                          1984 Lincoln Continental TurboDiesel - rolls coal

                          Originally posted by phayzer5
                          I drive a Lincoln. I can't be bothered to shift like the peasants and rabble rousers

                          Comment


                            Might be worth just chasing the threads to make sure it was tapped correctly to begin with.

                            Only two things are infinite, the universe and human stupidity, and I'm not sure about the former. -- Albert Einstein
                            rides: 93 Crown Vic LX (The Red Velvet Cake), 2000 Crown Vic base model (Sandy), 2003 Expedition (the vacation beast)
                            Originally posted by gadget73
                            ... and it should all work like magic and unicorns and stuff.
                            Originally posted by dmccaig
                            Overhead, some poor bastards are flying in airplanes.

                            Comment


                              -Heater hose fitting is now better, I just went for it and it did turn the last 3/4 of a turn I needed. No longer schloppy and shouldn't leak
                              -Valve covers are on with new gaskets (on both sides now)
                              -Fuel pressure regulator is mounted and all fuel lines ran (a temp setup between T-piece and reg for now)
                              -Throttle & cruise bracket is installed and the throttle cable lines up perfectly
                              -Made a small bracket for the HEI module & heatsink, I'll attach it below the coil, so it gets airflow from the rad fan
                              -Made an "adapter" to the air cleaner base, aka just a sheetmetal ring that I'll epoxy or something to the air cleaner.

                              Does the TFI coil ground throught the bracket or something?

                              It's slowly coming together, I'm quite happy about my pressure reg placement. A dumb design with irremovable hose barbs and the feed, output and return all pointing in different ways. But a proven design and a cheap price.
                              The gold isn't too bad, though my plan 9 might've been overall the smarter choice.
                              Attached Files
                              1985 Mercury Grand Marquis LS, "Maisa"
                              1995 Chevrolet Caprice Classic STW, "Sally"

                              Comment


                                Coil primary grounds through the TFI module. 12V in (hot in run/start), trigger (coil GND) to TFI. Spark output (secondary) I think grounds to the coil case and likes being on a bracket connected to the heads. I'd ring out one if I had one on hand, but everything I have now is coil on plug.

                                Only two things are infinite, the universe and human stupidity, and I'm not sure about the former. -- Albert Einstein
                                rides: 93 Crown Vic LX (The Red Velvet Cake), 2000 Crown Vic base model (Sandy), 2003 Expedition (the vacation beast)
                                Originally posted by gadget73
                                ... and it should all work like magic and unicorns and stuff.
                                Originally posted by dmccaig
                                Overhead, some poor bastards are flying in airplanes.

                                Comment

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