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As a side note... if you have the original tensioner pulley with the huge guides, you may have to remove the positioning bolt from the back side (the one that locks the pulley in place) after loosening it and the pivot bolt to get the belt over the lip. Once the belt is over the lip, the bolt will go back in. You might also run the top section of belt under the pulley. I think both ways will clear. I know my OCD preferred the look of the over the top method with the smog pump gone.
My beemer came with rubber mats uo front and canvas in the back. Since it's going to be a winter car, I bought new rubber mats for the rear.
The bmw rear mats fit quite well in the MGM, except for the color.
The aftermarket mats in the MGM are shit anyways, now I gotta figure out some matching up front.
I've been pondering on the wheel / tire question and came to the conclusion that I want to keep this car on the steelies, for now.
But the horrible sunken in back wheels have to be addressed. I've decided to go with spacers.
I measured the wheel studs and they are about 33mm in length, so I should be good with 35mm of spacer. Currently I've got about 70mm of gap from the tire to the arch, so I should be able to fit 235s in the rear, with the spacers.
Spacers are cheap, and they can be removed to pass inspection. No need to modify anything either.
I thought about getting a pair of the steelies to a wheel shop to get widened or the backspacing reduced. That would cost somewhere around 120€ for two rims, plus having to refinish and paint them. Also reversed / widened steelies are illegal in Finland, though I haven't actually heard anyone getting ticketed for them. Usually cops and inspection guys just warn or wag a finger about them.
Getting bigger and better wheels would be great, except they cost a bunch of money and there isn't really anything interesting used for sale.
She's finally getting the alignment done next monday. The shop guy confirmed that they can do it, testfitted the alignment projectors/prisms onto the car.
I'll probably order the spacers some day, then see about ordering new rear tires.
1985 Mercury Grand Marquis LS, "Maisa"
1995 Chevrolet Caprice Classic STW, "Sally"
Did a little spring cleaning today, thorough vacuum and dusting, cleaned the windows and adjusted the hood latch so the front corners don't flop.
The car keeps on reminding me that plush is really shitty to vacuum. Still better than leather because it's less sweaty on hot days.
Was going to apply vinyl and leather care stuff on the dash and door panels, except the relatively warm day got the dash absolutely scorching hot.
Also ordered up a pair of 25mm bolt-on spacer and a pair of 8mm pancakes. It might be a little close to the wheel studs but nothing a little flap disk can't deal with.
1985 Mercury Grand Marquis LS, "Maisa"
1995 Chevrolet Caprice Classic STW, "Sally"
I loosened the AC/smog belt today and felt around. The smog pump doesn't feel as bad as it looks, but it does have some slop in the shaft. It does make some nasty scratching noises when turned, but there's basically zero resistance on turning it.
Guess I'll leave it be for now, if it gets worse and shreds / throws a belt, I'll get to it.
Are the metal fitting pieces check valves? The ones where the rubber hoses end from the Thermactor and change into metal pipes to the backs of the cyl heads and to cats.
I kinda want to clean up the Thermactor mess except for the metal pipes.
A couple quick pics from yesterdays sunset cruise:
1985 Mercury Grand Marquis LS, "Maisa"
1995 Chevrolet Caprice Classic STW, "Sally"
I have 1 1/4" (32mm) spacers on mine and it works, just have to watch the height of the lug nuts to make sure they don't sit past the top of the spacer. Not sure if those steel wheels have clearance dimples around the holes or not.
and make sure you torque the spacers properly. I had a stupid moment and it ended up with a wheel coming off the car.
86 Lincoln Town Car (Galactica).
5.0 HO, CompCams XE258,Scorpion 1.72 roller rockers, 3.55 K code rear, tow package, BHPerformance ported E7 heads, Tmoss Explorer intake, 65mm throttle body, Hedman 1 5/8" headers, 2.5" dual exhaust, ASP underdrive pulley
91 Lincoln Mark VII LSC grandpa spec white and cranberry
1984 Lincoln Continental TurboDiesel - rolls coal
Originally posted by phayzer5
I drive a Lincoln. I can't be bothered to shift like the peasants and rabble rousers
Got the car back from the alignment, right wheel was cambered in awfully lot, causing the inside wear. Seems a bit sharper to drive now too. Guy commented that all of the joints have barely have any play in them, which is great to hear, since they all look like shit.
Steering wheel is still a bit crooked, less so now, but to the other direction Is the steering wheel keyed to the steering shaft or just splined? I'd like to adjust it a bit if possible.
1985 Mercury Grand Marquis LS, "Maisa"
1995 Chevrolet Caprice Classic STW, "Sally"
Got the car back from the alignment, right wheel was cambered in awfully lot, causing the inside wear. Seems a bit sharper to drive now too. Guy commented that all of the joints have barely have any play in them, which is great to hear, since they all look like shit.
[ATTACH=CONFIG]56369[/ATTACH]
Steering wheel is still a bit crooked, less so now, but to the other direction Is the steering wheel keyed to the steering shaft or just splined? I'd like to adjust it a bit if possible.
This is a huge gripe I have with alignment shops. Align your car and then give you a crooked steering wheel. Is that a different service that they provide? Seems silly to me.
I dont believe it is adjustable from up top. After doing my own alignment on my Crown Victoria I had to continually mess with the toe by adjusting the adjusting sleeves in unison to keep toe correct BUT get steering wheel centered. PITA. Maybe why alignment shops don't bother. lol
I just paid $150 to have my front end aligned on my Superbird. Steering wheel is off about two inches from being centered. I complained and they said it was because the tires are worn uneven. Car runs true and doesn't pull left or right. Luckily I can remove the one fat spline on the steering wheel and center the wheel myself. WagonMan
89 Colony Park
90 Colony Park
70 HEMI Daytona Convertible
Eh, I think I'll just leave it be if the steering wheel can't be adjusted. It's maybe 15-20 degrees to the right, used to be probably nearly 40 degrees to the left.
It feels so off now, I've driven the car for over 2 seasons with the crooked steering wheel, it would feel off even if it was completely straight.
I paid 85€ for the alignment and I'd consider that to be on the cheap side.
1985 Mercury Grand Marquis LS, "Maisa"
1995 Chevrolet Caprice Classic STW, "Sally"
just keep flooding the joints with grease each oil change and they should last a good while anyhow. Replacing the boots will make them last even longer.
yeah, lack of lube is what does them in. Dirt is the other part. Even if you don't do the boots, pumping grease in pushes the dirt and water out. Just wipe off the grease zerk first otherwise you may be pumping dirt in with the grease. And clean it again afterward, we're not savages
86 Lincoln Town Car (Galactica).
5.0 HO, CompCams XE258,Scorpion 1.72 roller rockers, 3.55 K code rear, tow package, BHPerformance ported E7 heads, Tmoss Explorer intake, 65mm throttle body, Hedman 1 5/8" headers, 2.5" dual exhaust, ASP underdrive pulley
91 Lincoln Mark VII LSC grandpa spec white and cranberry
1984 Lincoln Continental TurboDiesel - rolls coal
Originally posted by phayzer5
I drive a Lincoln. I can't be bothered to shift like the peasants and rabble rousers
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