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My '85 MGM, "Maisa"

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    Things circle back around to the rear sway bar, as I expected.
    I don't have one and acquiring one might be a bit harder. Or the shipping will cost a fortune.
    A stock rear would pair up nicely with the stock front bar? Or a police rear bar/whatever preferrable?

    Also there's like 3 sets of american racing outlaws with correct bolt pattern for sale in Finland, cheap too. I guess those things are out of style nowadays. Perfect for me since I'm always out of style!
    1985 Mercury Grand Marquis LS, "Maisa"
    1995 Chevrolet Caprice Classic STW, "Sally"

    Comment


      anything in the back is better than nothing. These cars tend to understeer somewhat anyway so you can get away with the larger rear bar and a stock front one. Huge bar up front and nothing in the back makes them plow really bad in a turn. The problem is just finding any of them now. There isn't anything remarkable about these things. I'm surprised there isn't an aftermarket source of something, even if it was semi-generic with some janky brackets to make it work. Not exactly sure how the GM B body stuff mounts in the back, but maybe even one of those could be adapted.
      86 Lincoln Town Car (Galactica).
      5.0 HO, CompCams XE258,Scorpion 1.72 roller rockers, 3.55 K code rear, tow package, BHPerformance ported E7 heads, Tmoss Explorer intake, 65mm throttle body, Hedman 1 5/8" headers, 2.5" dual exhaust, ASP underdrive pulley

      91 Lincoln Mark VII LSC grandpa spec white and cranberry

      1984 Lincoln Continental TurboDiesel - rolls coal

      Originally posted by phayzer5
      I drive a Lincoln. I can't be bothered to shift like the peasants and rabble rousers

      Comment


        Are all box rear sway bars similar dimensions?
        Sedan, coupe, wagon and LTC?
        I'm guessing aeros and whales are different.

        Also are the rear sway bars mounted to the axle with the end links on the frame or vice versa?
        Last edited by Arquemann; 06-08-2020, 02:27 AM.
        1985 Mercury Grand Marquis LS, "Maisa"
        1995 Chevrolet Caprice Classic STW, "Sally"

        Comment


          Aeros and Whales have end links that mount to the frame and then attach to the sway bar. Boxes used a sway bar that attached to each control arm.


          My Cars:
          -1964 Comet 202 (116K Miles) - Long Term Project
          -1986 Dodge D-150 Royale SE (112K Miles) - Slowly Getting Put Back Together
          -1987 Grand Marquis Colony Park LS (325K Miles) - April 2017 + September 2019 POTM Winner
          -1997 Grand Marquis LS (240K Miles) - The Daily Workhorse & March 2015 + January 2019 POTM Winner

          Comment


            box rear suspension is the same no matter what the body was. There are 2 bars that I know of, the skinny and the fat. Both bolt up the same. Only real trick is that some cars have the holes in the rear control arms, some do not. Nothing you can't fix with a hole-maker but just be aware of it. There are spacers that sit inside the arm so the bolts don't flatten it, but they can be subbed with bits of pipe or solid bar with a hole drilled through and cut to the right length.

            fat bar, taxi/police/HD 1 1/16" D9AZ-5A772-C or E7AZ-5A772-B
            skinny bar, 11/16" D9AZ-5A772-A or E7AZ-5A772-A
            86 Lincoln Town Car (Galactica).
            5.0 HO, CompCams XE258,Scorpion 1.72 roller rockers, 3.55 K code rear, tow package, BHPerformance ported E7 heads, Tmoss Explorer intake, 65mm throttle body, Hedman 1 5/8" headers, 2.5" dual exhaust, ASP underdrive pulley

            91 Lincoln Mark VII LSC grandpa spec white and cranberry

            1984 Lincoln Continental TurboDiesel - rolls coal

            Originally posted by phayzer5
            I drive a Lincoln. I can't be bothered to shift like the peasants and rabble rousers

            Comment


              New AC clutch is installed, AC works again.

              Jeeeeesus that was one worst jobs I've done on any car.
              What is supposed to be the correct procedure to take off the AC/air pump belt and put it back on?
              I fought quite a while to get the belt off and thrice that to get the belt back on. New clutch is different than the old but goes together the same and looks better, it did come with a handful of different sized shims, I used the one old and 2 new.

              The AC compressor isn't long for this world, it makes a lot of "krrrrr" noise when it kicks on.
              The noise seems sharper than last fall when I heard it last. Also the compressors underside was really really filthy, so it probably leaks aswell.
              If the thing goes out, I'll be ordering the kit with the drier, orifice tube and compressor and the retrofit valves.
              1985 Mercury Grand Marquis LS, "Maisa"
              1995 Chevrolet Caprice Classic STW, "Sally"

              Comment


                Removing/installing belt: loosen the pivot bolt that the belt tensioner rotates on to allow it to move and then loosen the set bolt on the back side of the bracket that holds the tensioner in place. Sometimes have to remove that bolt to get the belt to clear the original pulley due to the high guides on it. Reverse the process for installing a belt.

                Only two things are infinite, the universe and human stupidity, and I'm not sure about the former. -- Albert Einstein
                rides: 93 Crown Vic LX (The Red Velvet Cake), 2000 Crown Vic base model (Sandy), 2003 Expedition (the vacation beast)
                Originally posted by gadget73
                ... and it should all work like magic and unicorns and stuff.
                Originally posted by dmccaig
                Overhead, some poor bastards are flying in airplanes.

                Comment


                  Originally posted by sly View Post
                  Removing/installing belt: loosen the pivot bolt that the belt tensioner rotates on to allow it to move and then loosen the set bolt on the back side of the bracket that holds the tensioner in place. Sometimes have to remove that bolt to get the belt to clear the original pulley due to the high guides on it. Reverse the process for installing a belt.
                  Well that makes sense, I tried to see behind the bracket but I guess the bolt head was so caked with crap I couldn't see it.
                  1985 Mercury Grand Marquis LS, "Maisa"
                  1995 Chevrolet Caprice Classic STW, "Sally"

                  Comment


                    yeah, 2 bolts, one where you can see it, one where you basically have to feel for it. 15mm head I think? Its pretty hard to see back there but maybe with a light and a mirror. usually pretty filthy on the back side of that bracket too.

                    The FS-6 compressor clutch exists in 2 styles. The early one has the flat front, the later one has 3 round things on it. Those compressors also have an oil weep wick on the front. If you can see up from the bottom side of it you'll see what looks like a bit of string sticking out. The compressor oil is meant to weep out of there just a tiny bit to lube the seal. They're all pretty nasty on the bottom, and it just gets worse with age and seal wear. They're also kinda noisy even when things are right. I think its something with the internal valves that makes that buzzing noise. If the pressures are good and it has the right amount of oil in it, run it till it quits.
                    86 Lincoln Town Car (Galactica).
                    5.0 HO, CompCams XE258,Scorpion 1.72 roller rockers, 3.55 K code rear, tow package, BHPerformance ported E7 heads, Tmoss Explorer intake, 65mm throttle body, Hedman 1 5/8" headers, 2.5" dual exhaust, ASP underdrive pulley

                    91 Lincoln Mark VII LSC grandpa spec white and cranberry

                    1984 Lincoln Continental TurboDiesel - rolls coal

                    Originally posted by phayzer5
                    I drive a Lincoln. I can't be bothered to shift like the peasants and rabble rousers

                    Comment


                      Last few days have been too hot to work on things, I still need to polish the hood and that definitely requires atleast a cloudy day.
                      But the AC works great, so far For some reason I don't have high hopes for it lasting long. The compressor has quieted down a considerable bit, maybe the oil wasn't flowing well at first with the AC being non-functioning for a long while.

                      As mentioned by someone in another thread, the trunk release button is the culprit, as expected. It opens the trunk pretty violently, since the seal is new.
                      How is the button supposed to be removed? Doesn't seem to twist or turn. Didn't use force since the whole dash creaks along with the glovebox.
                      1985 Mercury Grand Marquis LS, "Maisa"
                      1995 Chevrolet Caprice Classic STW, "Sally"

                      Comment


                        it's "wing clips" you have to pinch the thin plastic clips in from the back side. A small mechanic's mirror will help you see that. There's a picture of one on the listing from LMR:
                        https://lmr.com/item/LRS-19542A/80-0...Release-Button

                        That should help you figure out what I'm saying.

                        Only two things are infinite, the universe and human stupidity, and I'm not sure about the former. -- Albert Einstein
                        rides: 93 Crown Vic LX (The Red Velvet Cake), 2000 Crown Vic base model (Sandy), 2003 Expedition (the vacation beast)
                        Originally posted by gadget73
                        ... and it should all work like magic and unicorns and stuff.
                        Originally posted by dmccaig
                        Overhead, some poor bastards are flying in airplanes.

                        Comment


                          yes, all you need are the eyeballs on the ends of your fingers along with the extra long double jointed hands to remove it.

                          or drop the glovebox door all the way open and its not so bad.
                          86 Lincoln Town Car (Galactica).
                          5.0 HO, CompCams XE258,Scorpion 1.72 roller rockers, 3.55 K code rear, tow package, BHPerformance ported E7 heads, Tmoss Explorer intake, 65mm throttle body, Hedman 1 5/8" headers, 2.5" dual exhaust, ASP underdrive pulley

                          91 Lincoln Mark VII LSC grandpa spec white and cranberry

                          1984 Lincoln Continental TurboDiesel - rolls coal

                          Originally posted by phayzer5
                          I drive a Lincoln. I can't be bothered to shift like the peasants and rabble rousers

                          Comment


                            The glovebox opening-stopper-screws were unbelievably tight, so my hands looked like after a cat attack just getting the glovebox out of the way.
                            I got the button out and cleaned it out since it was full of red grease. It works now.

                            Also finished buffing the car with the Auto Glym SRP, the hood I had left was the worst part. Last time this car has seen any sort of wax was probably in Florida last millenium. The SRP just like bakes on and solidifies as soon as the layer gets thin. It gets really difficult to buff off and leaves shitty residue streaks anyways. Took 3 passes to get the rag going smooth over the paint.
                            As the car is kinda glossy now, every single imperfection/dent/rock chip shows well, and boy is there alot of them. Which is kinda okay since I don't like my cars that shiny and mint. If you're scared of dirty roads and rain, you're doing it wrong lol

                            Dad was organising the garage a bit and found 2 door strikers with the bushings intact, I installed those in the front doors and now they shut nicely, no more slamming necessary.

                            It rained heavily last night and today morning, and the passenger front door sloshed. Probably over a litre of rusty black water poured out. Just to be sure I cleaned the drain holes in every door...
                            1985 Mercury Grand Marquis LS, "Maisa"
                            1995 Chevrolet Caprice Classic STW, "Sally"

                            Comment


                              I finally received the window run channels, after they sat 4 days at the customs for no apparent reason. I can already feel the 90° corners are going to be a pain in the arse, scared to do relief cuts or the sort. Maybe just jam it in, window up and apply heat?

                              I'm trying to jam everything together at the same time: the window run channels, the driver door needs the glass guide bushings (I may have the correct ones, never seen 'em), passenger front needs the lock mechanisms greased, keybarrel is stiff and power locks get uncooperative without regular use.
                              Also I have to open up the right rear door as the window stopped working and the lock is kinda stiff.

                              Otherwise, the car has worked pretty well for quite a while. AC works, cruise works, doesn't die anymore, runs almost smooth. Both front tires lose air slowly, doesn't help that it sits most days.
                              I want to do things to this car! Wheels, tires, stance, but I don't exactly what to do... And TBH I haven't gotten anything done as I can't be arsed to do anything even though all I do is lounge around all day everyday. Haven't heard back from the Mustang wheels -guy either.

                              Dad did take the 18" wheels off the Tbird, sick of how it drove with the worn tires. He got some "new" tires for the stock steelies.
                              So I confirmed my opinion of "ew, no".
                              Click image for larger version

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                              1985 Mercury Grand Marquis LS, "Maisa"
                              1995 Chevrolet Caprice Classic STW, "Sally"

                              Comment


                                For the corners or any transitions point with the run channels you can just cut slits nice and close to each other from the back of the material towards the leading edges BUT NOT GOING THOUGH the faces of the window run. This will make it flexible in corners.
                                ~David~

                                My 1987 Crown Victoria Coupe: The Brown Blob
                                My 2004 Mercedes Benz E320:The Benz

                                Originally posted by ootdega
                                My life is a long series of "nevermind" and "I guess not."

                                Originally posted by DerekTheGreat
                                But, that's just coming from me, this site's biggest pessimist. Best of luck

                                Originally posted by gadget73
                                my car starts and it has AC. Yours doesn't start and it has no AC. Seems obvious to me.




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