My '85 MGM, "Maisa"

[Arquemann]

I'll make sure to clean off the paint in the couple spots where it attaches to the heads and intake. Didn't even think about it before I started making the HEI bracket and remembered that the module needs to be grounded via mounting.

[gadget73]

HEI modules are inside the distributor, unless you have something weird that isn't HEI. The whole thing with that setup is you need just one wire to make it work.

related to that, make sure you have power to that supply in both key-on and while cranking.

[matth825]

Looking good! Can’t wait to see it finished!


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[Tiggie]

I just want to say this is looking much more spectacular under the hood.

Also, I added a ground from the coil to the body when I moved my coil from the A/C bracket to the plastic fender well. I can't remember if there was a specific reason other than good vibes.

[Arquemann]

HEI modules are inside the distributor, unless you have something weird that isn't HEI. The whole thing with that setup is you need just one wire to make it work.

related to that, make sure you have power to that supply in both key-on and while cranking.

I have a Duraspark II distributor, which I'm pairing with a normal 2+2 pin HEI module. http://www.carbdford.com/tech/HEI/hei.htm
(the module needs to be grounded to the dizzy aswell)
The module will be mounted to a heatsink so it doesn't cook itself to death. In normal HEI setups the distributor body works as the heatsink.
https://www.amazon.com/ACDelco-10474.../dp/B0012P2EQU

As easy as it would've been, I absolutely do not want to see a hideous HEI distributor smack dab in the middle of my pretty Ford engine bay. It might've not fit with the stock air cleaner too.

[Arquemann]

-Wiring harness is out of the car
-Coil and HEI module is mounted, I mounted the coil backwards so the plug wire connector hides the small electrical connector behind it. Fuggin' genius!
-Air cleaner adapter is done



The biggest questions currently are:
-where should I get switched power for my fuel pump relay? There seems to be an "R/LG" that should come from the ignition switch, still need to look around more.
-Do I need to reuse the 1.3 ohm resistance wire that originally feeds the fuel pump relay? Or if I use a stronger resistor, will it harm the fuel pump?

[sly]

Fuel pump relay should be hot at all times on the switched side. The coil side should be from whatever source is controlling the fuel pump on/off switching. If you're just keeping it simple, then from hot in run/start and ground the other side of the coil. If using the stock ignition control, you'll have to wait for one of the others to chime in as I don't have any clue what carb/CFI cars did with that. If the 1.3ohm wire is on the coil side, no need with modern relays. If it was on the fuel pump power side, you should reuse that or the fuel pump may burn up with the added current.

[gadget73]

the HEI dizzys are hideous, I'll give you that. Their other big advantage is how easy it is to mess with the timing advance stuff. Doing it with a Ford distributor requires tearing the whole thing apart from the gear upwards to get at the weights. For whatever reason they made everything in the distributor as inaccessible as humanly possible.

[Arquemann]

The 1,3 ohm resistor wire is between the constant hot power (battery) and the FP relay. As far as I understand the resistor lowers the voltage the pump receives. I'm not particularly knowledgeable in relay components, especially in english, but I assume the coil side means the low amperage circuit used to activate / energize the relay? In which case, no, the resistor wire is not on the coil side

I'm considering between pillaging the factory harness for the pump relay and resistor wire, but it would be way easier wire a new relay and a power wire (including resistor), plus not having to rip apart the harness that a certain person might want to buy. Obviously the relay bracket and cover would be nice to keep.

[DerekTheGreat]

Engine bay looks nice, I dig the gold paint on the rocker covers. I imagine you'll be much happier with the car once you get it going again.

[Arquemann]

After some consideration, I'll reuse the original resistor wire setup. I won't have to get a new resistor or fuse and I'll be 100% sure that the resistor holds up to the amps the fuel pump pulls.

From the factory, the fuel pump relay receives constant power via the 1.3 ohm resistor wire, but also a direct 12v when cranking.
Probably no use to keep the "bypass" wire, as with a carb the fuel pressure isn't nearly as critical.

There's a (now vacant) 6-pin plug next to the cruise servo and ECM, it has an R/LG wire and a larger gauge gray wire. Both have 12 volts with the key ON, but only the R/LG has power when cranking.
I think I'll use the R/LG, even though not running the fuel pump during cranking would help the starter.
Dunno if I should also pillage the fuel pump relay or just use a generic one, just as much snipping and crimping either way.

[sly]

yeah, coil side means the low voltage side.
+1 keep the resistor wire.

Fuel pump doesn't "need" to be triggered in crank for a carb setup, but can be helpful to be if extended troubleshooting is needed that requires lots of cranking. Though pause at key on should solve that issue. As for the relay itself... using the common Bosch style relay instead of the Ford one might be better if your going through all the trouble to rewire all of this anyhow. Especially if using an aftermarket fuse/relay box to put them in. Would save a lot of trouble finding parts later on if needed.

[kishy]

From the factory, the fuel pump relay receives constant power via the 1.3 ohm resistor wire, but also a direct 12v when cranking.

Are you certain it actually is that way?
I found the same in my 84 EVTM a long time ago, and it was remarked upon here that it's a ludicrous arrangement and there is no technological justification for it.

I seem to recall theorizing that it was left in the EVTM by error and may have been a Fox platform dual-pump system leftover that the manual writers didn't know the Panthers didn't have. There are other errors like this sprinkled throughout the EVTMs so it isn't the most unlikely thing.

Edit: found the context.

[Arquemann]

Are you certain it actually is that way?
I found the same in my 84 EVTM a long time ago, and it was remarked upon here that it's a ludicrous arrangement and there is no technological justification for it.

I seem to recall theorizing that it was left in the EVTM by error and may have been a Fox platform dual-pump system leftover that the manual writers didn't know the Panthers didn't have. There are other errors like this sprinkled throughout the EVTMs so it isn't the most unlikely thing.

Edit: found the context.

Just like in the EVTM, I got the EVTM pics from matth825, so it "probably" is an '85 EVTM.


Here's the wires I removed from the harness:


Both wires start from the starter relay, the yellow wire shares a ring terminal with another wire, and the fusible link also splits into two. The pinkish wire attaches to the "I" post on the starter relay
Yellow wire is the resistor wire, clearly marked along it's length multiple times, it is spliced to the pinkish wire which goes all the way to the fuel pump relay.

There was a short period some time ago where I had the "I" post ring terminal removed and definitely didn't make any difference in starting.
I guess ford liked ballast resistors so much that they wanted one for their fuel pump(s).

[gadget73]

never heard of a resistor wire in the power feed to the fuel pump. Pretty sure my 86 doesn't have that.

coil side would be the low amperage circuit controlled by the ECM in stock form.