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Thread: My 1968 Mustang Rustang

  1. #81
    Member of the Orb Alliance packman's Avatar
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    Whoa!!! That is friggin clean! I like the color contrast too

  2. #82
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    Quote Originally Posted by 87gtVIC View Post
    Do you have clearance for the speedometer cable to come out behind the cross member? Hard to tell in photos.

    Is that the parking brake cables under the tail of the transmission?

    Everything looks like you can eat off of it under there. Very nice.
    Oh snap. Didn't think about the speedo cable. Will investigate tonight. It still has the VSS from the donor plugged in there, so hopefully there will be more room than it looks like. And yes on the parking brake. Haven't eaten under there yet but maybe soon lol.


    Quote Originally Posted by packman View Post
    Whoa!!! That is friggin clean! I like the color contrast too
    Clean for now. I want to drive this so it won't be that way for too long once we hit the road. The color is close to what came under there believe it or not. I think my camera makes it a little more red than it is, its supposed to be red oxide. I have heard they came all kinds of colors. Whatever slop they had leftover.
    1990 Country Squire - weekend cruiser, next project
    1988 Crown Vic LTD Wagon - waiting in the wings

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  3. #83
    Wagon Addicted Tiggie's Avatar
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    Speedo cable fits fine!

    Been prepping lots of little parts for installation.

    Running a 50oz engine on 3 bolt pulleys meant an aftermarket balancer was required. Luckily, belt alignment looks spot on.



    Tiny space between the fan and pulley. Welcome to a game show called you better have just the right pulleys and brackets or itís not gonna work. Iíd hate to see a big block car.



    Other little stuff done. Heater hose route is wack but how the assembly manual said it should go. This is a giant model car.




    Next project is to pull the pinion flange off again and reseal. The pinion seal is fine. The splines leak. Going to try that plumber goo stuff. Didnít have my puller to pull the flange tonight. The driveshaft install if itís the right length. Supposed to be.


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    1988 Crown Vic LTD Wagon - waiting in the wings

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  4. #84
    Wagon Addicted Tiggie's Avatar
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    Default My 1968 Mustang Rustang

    Todayís project was the alternator.

    I ordered one from Amazon warehouse l, intending to steal the guts to put in my kind of correct Autolite case. What arrived is a mix up of a dead on correct ďteardropĒ Autolite rear case and a more modern square tab front case.

    Scavenged the front off my donor and installed on my Amazon guts and rear case.

    Now for the Amazon Warehouse story. I first noticed some very wear on the pulley, and just barely on the brushes inside. Made me wonder why itís at the warehouse...

    Then I found extra black insulator that had been rattling around in the case.


    Also, this lovely broken brush holder. I think it was broken when it was assembled. Had to use the one from the donor.

    And mismatched springs.



    AC Delco Professional, but remanufactured in China. Not the best quality.

    As a side note, the 88 also has an Amazon Warehouse AC Delco 2G. The brushes were installed wrong on that.

    It would seem that AC has some QC issues, and Amazon warehouse ďinspectedĒ really means nothing.


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  5. #85
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    I will not buy anything mechanical from Amazon warehouse again. Quality control seems to be non existent. The discount you get is not worth the hassle.

  6. #86
    Wagon Addicted Tiggie's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Mainemantom View Post
    I will not buy anything mechanical from Amazon warehouse again. Quality control seems to be non existent. The discount you get is not worth the hassle.
    I agree. I just wanted the rectifier and bearings originally. It all worked out this time. I think quality control everywhere is going downhill.

    Ordered some stuff from VA Classic Mustang yesterday and they called today with a question. Spoke with them a while. Great folks. We discussed Scott Drake being sold to an investment group, of which I was unaware. Quality is going down will with them.

    They didn’t have my clock knob, and didn’t have my shifter knob. Jokingly told me to run a three speed knob and see how long it takes for someone to notice it’s got two extra gears.
    1990 Country Squire - weekend cruiser, next project
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  7. #87
    fomoco panthers !
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    What kind of clock knob are you looking for ?

  8. #88
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    Quote Originally Posted by Mainemantom View Post
    What kind of clock knob are you looking for ?
    This one: https://www.npdlink.com/product/knob...1968&year=1968
    1990 Country Squire - weekend cruiser, next project
    1988 Crown Vic LTD Wagon - waiting in the wings

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  9. #89
    The Brown Blob 87gtVIC's Avatar
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    ~David~

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    Quote Originally Posted by DerekTheGreat View Post
    But, that's just coming from me, this site's biggest pessimist. Best of luck

  10. #90
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    I also would not use CJpony parts. Had some bad dealings with them. Never again

    OP- engine is coming out great! Nice job
    ..

  11. #91
    Wagon Addicted Tiggie's Avatar
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    I’ll get those knobs in on another order.

    Fighting with the clutch linkage. I bought what was supposed to be a complete setup out of a 67. It’s happy on the transmission end, the middle pivot, but not the top. Ordered a new rod from the pedal to the equalizer bar. Shaped very differently but didn’t help. Might have to order another equalizer bar.

    Put the shifter in tonight. That was a major thing in terms of mental health haha. Also put the starter on. Got lucky on a reman starter (if it works). It’s a correct 1967 Mustang casting with a 1968 date. Not that anyone sees it but kind of school in my OCD book of things that matter least to the majority.

    To do before starting and running around the block:

    Solve Clutch Linkage Puzzle
    Carb check and install (rebuilt in 2015ish... on the shelf since)
    Fuel line from pump to carb
    Vacuum lines to distributor, other things.
    ATF in the T5
    A yoke in the T5 to keep the fluid in
    A right length driveshaft to hold the yoke to hold the fluid in...
    Install PS and AC on engine
    Fan Shroud
    Radiator
    Hoses
    H-pipe
    Fluid for PS
    Battery
    Top off axle fluid
    Bleed brakes
    Temporary fuel source.

    In theory this could be done in about a week. In reality, 50/50 for a 2020 crank up. Might wait until 2021 the way this year has gone.
    1990 Country Squire - weekend cruiser, next project
    1988 Crown Vic LTD Wagon - waiting in the wings

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  12. #92
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    Clutch puzzle solved I think. The equalizer bar was bent. I persuaded it to be better with leverage.

    Shifter eye candy. The round thing is reverse lockout which is not used but will look right. Itís fun.




    Been screwing around with paint to try to make a gold cad plating appearance. Not much luck. This final combo is the closest I have gotten but itís not quite right. This is a gold base with a yellow Dulpicolor Metalcast topcoat. Itís a little dark.

    Measured the driveshaft tonight. 50Ē center to center of u-joint caps would be ideal.




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    1990 Country Squire - weekend cruiser, next project
    1988 Crown Vic LTD Wagon - waiting in the wings

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  13. #93
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    I get using what you have to try and achieve your gold cad results but if you are still not satisfied maybe something like this can help out:

    https://www.eastwood.com/eastwood-go...plete-kit.html

    What you have would look fine for me. Cheaper to keep her.
    ~David~

    My 1987 Crown Victoria Coupe: The Brown Blob
    My 2004 Mercedes Benz E320:The Benz

    Quote Originally Posted by DerekTheGreat View Post
    But, that's just coming from me, this site's biggest pessimist. Best of luck

  14. #94
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    Quote Originally Posted by 87gtVIC View Post
    I get using what you have to try and achieve your gold cad results but if you are still not satisfied maybe something like this can help out:

    https://www.eastwood.com/eastwood-go...plete-kit.html

    What you have would look fine for me. Cheaper to keep her.
    I looked that over. I’d go for it if I had something more expensive to do like a brake booster. I even looked into the chemistry side of the plating process but it’s a little too much for this chemistry teacher to setup. I tried a few bolts but I didn’t have the sodium dichromate (used potassium dichromate), but got zero results. I can get a new plated fan and pulley for not much cash, so I might go for that instead if it bugs me. Bleeding cash this month so not yet.
    1990 Country Squire - weekend cruiser, next project
    1988 Crown Vic LTD Wagon - waiting in the wings

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  15. #95
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    Got off my butt and got this thing cranking today.

    A lot of things went well. Some didnít. In order of occurrence:

    1.) Dex/Merc in my hair and on my hood flannel shirt.
    2.) Got fire extinguisher ready.
    3.) Big sparks when hooking up the battery, disconnected.
    4.) Suspected the pretty but not so sure it works alternator to be the cause of the sparks. Disconnected the alternator. No more sparks, battery happy.
    5.) Turn key to ON.... not start... But the starter said letís roll. Turned switch off and starter stopped. Disconnect the lead at the solenoid for temporary relief. Maybe the cause is my rushed, unresearched bypass of the neutral safety wiring, or the pretty repop solenoid is actually junk.
    6.) Crossed the solenoid to be sure things were working happily otherwise. Other than it skipping a cylinder likes itís gonna compression, that went okay
    7.) Gave it a little sip of fuel in the carb. Crossed the solenoid and was met with some cylinders firing close to right.
    8.) Gave it another sip and hooked up the fuel pump.
    9.) Another crank and some fire and fuel squirting out of the fuel line to fuel hose joint. Threw out the cool factory looking squeeze clamp. Replaced with generic worm drive clamp.
    10.) Another crank, ran kinda. Wanted the timing way retarded on the distributor... so maybe a couple teeth advanced on the distributor. Pulled that and went counterclockwise. Which I think is advancing it further. No start. Pulled again and went two forward. No start.

    Had to stop to get dinner on the table. Needed to clear brain anyway to think this one through.

    Major concern is why a cylinder seems to have no compression. It held air for the valve seals after rotating the valves to clear corrosion on the seats. This was my first cam install but it seemed pretty foolproof. Who knows. I lined up the two timing gear dots at number 1 TDC compression stroke. Gonna troubleshoot this weekend. Verify compression and timing. Suggestions welcome.

    It didnít catch on fire so thereís that.
    1990 Country Squire - weekend cruiser, next project
    1988 Crown Vic LTD Wagon - waiting in the wings

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  16. #96
    Wagon Addicted Tiggie's Avatar
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    Verified Distributor timing last night and got it right. I think it was right to start with, and then I got excited and moved it the other day.

    Here's a Video of cranking. You can hear the no compression cylinder. Going to verify some compression numbers tomorrow. Seems to be good on leakdown, but no cranking compression. Again, going to verify tomorrow.

    https://drive.google.com/file/d/1cO8...ew?usp=sharing

    Got it running minus the one cylinder. Does it sound right (minus the cylinder)?

    https://drive.google.com/file/d/1bYX...ew?usp=sharing
    Last edited by Tiggie; 12-11-2020 at 11:38 AM.
    1990 Country Squire - weekend cruiser, next project
    1988 Crown Vic LTD Wagon - waiting in the wings

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  17. #97
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    I'm at work and our security won't let me view the video. If you've verified the initial timing and you don't have a cracked spark plug or a bad wire, my next look would be the lifters for that cylinder. If you replaced the cam and lifters it's not uncommon these days to get bad ones out of the box. Either failing to pump up or sticking in the collapsed position is something they just do. If you have any other valve covers you can cut windows in them to watch everything working and verify proper oiling and drainback. I've done this quite a few times and it's really not a big deal. SOMETIMES you get lucky and find the lifter...Screw with the pushrod after removing the rocker arm, and they'll let go. Good luck.
    All FORD All The Time

  18. #98
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    I cannot comment on things sounding correct but have you let it run long enough while you pull plug wires to verify which cylinders are firing and which ones aren't by listening for a change in tone?
    ~David~

    My 1987 Crown Victoria Coupe: The Brown Blob
    My 2004 Mercedes Benz E320:The Benz

    Quote Originally Posted by DerekTheGreat View Post
    But, that's just coming from me, this site's biggest pessimist. Best of luck

  19. #99
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    Quote Originally Posted by clutch47 View Post
    I'm at work and our security won't let me view the video. If you've verified the initial timing and you don't have a cracked spark plug or a bad wire, my next look would be the lifters for that cylinder. If you replaced the cam and lifters it's not uncommon these days to get bad ones out of the box. Either failing to pump up or sticking in the collapsed position is something they just do. If you have any other valve covers you can cut windows in them to watch everything working and verify proper oiling and drainback. I've done this quite a few times and it's really not a big deal. SOMETIMES you get lucky and find the lifter...Screw with the pushrod after removing the rocker arm, and they'll let go. Good luck.
    I do have a valve cover that be used for that purpose. The lifters are the original roller lifters to this engine. They were used. This engine also sat for so long so it’s possible a lifter had pressure on it for decades which may have made it unhappy. I can remove the rocker and move that pushrod around while running?

    Anyone chime in here: if the intake valve isn’t opening, would that make it easier to crank? I’ve been operating under the idea that an exhaust valve is hanging open or is bent.

    It’s also possible someone tried to start this with nasty fuel while still in the donor car. I haven’t heard an EFI engine do it, but I know that can stick a valve on carb’d stuff.

    Quote Originally Posted by 87gtVIC View Post
    I cannot comment on things sounding correct but have you let it run long enough while you pull plug wires to verify which cylinders are firing and which ones aren't by listening for a change in tone?
    It doesn’t have any water/antifreeze in it yet so I don’t know how long I can run it.

    Compression and spark checks tomorrow.
    1990 Country Squire - weekend cruiser, next project
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  20. #100
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    You cant run it long without water but you can crank it with no covers or cut covers to take a gander on valve action.
    "X" car 89 Colony Park LS Mods>Engine delete, SS duals magnaflow hflow cats, 2010 Must GT mufflers, auto air shocks, Posi, Tran cooler, big front brakes, 03+ rear disks, Large 3g alt, Tripminder, GS grill, 86 seats, 16" HPP wheels, winter boots=96 Cartier wheels, 215-65/16 Goodyear ULTRA GW3 snows, pi rear sway, alum driveshaft.
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