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My 1968 Mustang Rustang

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    #91
    I’ll get those knobs in on another order.

    Fighting with the clutch linkage. I bought what was supposed to be a complete setup out of a 67. It’s happy on the transmission end, the middle pivot, but not the top. Ordered a new rod from the pedal to the equalizer bar. Shaped very differently but didn’t help. Might have to order another equalizer bar.

    Put the shifter in tonight. That was a major thing in terms of mental health haha. Also put the starter on. Got lucky on a reman starter (if it works). It’s a correct 1967 Mustang casting with a 1968 date. Not that anyone sees it but kind of school in my OCD book of things that matter least to the majority.

    To do before starting and running around the block:

    Solve Clutch Linkage Puzzle
    Carb check and install (rebuilt in 2015ish... on the shelf since)
    Fuel line from pump to carb
    Vacuum lines to distributor, other things.
    ATF in the T5
    A yoke in the T5 to keep the fluid in
    A right length driveshaft to hold the yoke to hold the fluid in...
    Install PS and AC on engine
    Fan Shroud
    Radiator
    Hoses
    H-pipe
    Fluid for PS
    Battery
    Top off axle fluid
    Bleed brakes
    Temporary fuel source.

    In theory this could be done in about a week. In reality, 50/50 for a 2020 crank up. Might wait until 2021 the way this year has gone.
    1990 Country Squire - weekend cruiser, next project
    1988 Crown Vic LTD Wagon - waiting in the wings

    GMN Box Panther History
    Box Panther Horsepower and Torque Ratings
    Box Panther Production Numbers

    Comment


      #92
      Clutch puzzle solved I think. The equalizer bar was bent. I persuaded it to be better with leverage.

      Shifter eye candy. The round thing is reverse lockout which is not used but will look right. It’s fun.




      Been screwing around with paint to try to make a gold cad plating appearance. Not much luck. This final combo is the closest I have gotten but it’s not quite right. This is a gold base with a yellow Dulpicolor Metalcast topcoat. It’s a little dark.

      Measured the driveshaft tonight. 50” center to center of u-joint caps would be ideal.




      Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
      1990 Country Squire - weekend cruiser, next project
      1988 Crown Vic LTD Wagon - waiting in the wings

      GMN Box Panther History
      Box Panther Horsepower and Torque Ratings
      Box Panther Production Numbers

      Comment


        #93
        I get using what you have to try and achieve your gold cad results but if you are still not satisfied maybe something like this can help out:

        https://www.eastwood.com/eastwood-go...plete-kit.html

        What you have would look fine for me. Cheaper to keep her.
        ~David~

        My 1987 Crown Victoria Coupe: The Brown Blob
        My 2004 Mercedes Benz E320:The Benz

        Originally posted by ootdega
        My life is a long series of "nevermind" and "I guess not."

        Originally posted by DerekTheGreat
        But, that's just coming from me, this site's biggest pessimist. Best of luck

        Originally posted by gadget73
        my car starts and it has AC. Yours doesn't start and it has no AC. Seems obvious to me.




        Comment


          #94
          Originally posted by 87gtVIC View Post
          I get using what you have to try and achieve your gold cad results but if you are still not satisfied maybe something like this can help out:

          https://www.eastwood.com/eastwood-go...plete-kit.html

          What you have would look fine for me. Cheaper to keep her.
          I looked that over. I’d go for it if I had something more expensive to do like a brake booster. I even looked into the chemistry side of the plating process but it’s a little too much for this chemistry teacher to setup. I tried a few bolts but I didn’t have the sodium dichromate (used potassium dichromate), but got zero results. I can get a new plated fan and pulley for not much cash, so I might go for that instead if it bugs me. Bleeding cash this month so not yet.
          1990 Country Squire - weekend cruiser, next project
          1988 Crown Vic LTD Wagon - waiting in the wings

          GMN Box Panther History
          Box Panther Horsepower and Torque Ratings
          Box Panther Production Numbers

          Comment


            #95
            Got off my butt and got this thing cranking today.

            A lot of things went well. Some didn’t. In order of occurrence:

            1.) Dex/Merc in my hair and on my hood flannel shirt.
            2.) Got fire extinguisher ready.
            3.) Big sparks when hooking up the battery, disconnected.
            4.) Suspected the pretty but not so sure it works alternator to be the cause of the sparks. Disconnected the alternator. No more sparks, battery happy.
            5.) Turn key to ON.... not start... But the starter said let’s roll. Turned switch off and starter stopped. Disconnect the lead at the solenoid for temporary relief. Maybe the cause is my rushed, unresearched bypass of the neutral safety wiring, or the pretty repop solenoid is actually junk.
            6.) Crossed the solenoid to be sure things were working happily otherwise. Other than it skipping a cylinder likes it’s gonna compression, that went okay
            7.) Gave it a little sip of fuel in the carb. Crossed the solenoid and was met with some cylinders firing close to right.
            8.) Gave it another sip and hooked up the fuel pump.
            9.) Another crank and some fire and fuel squirting out of the fuel line to fuel hose joint. Threw out the cool factory looking squeeze clamp. Replaced with generic worm drive clamp.
            10.) Another crank, ran kinda. Wanted the timing way retarded on the distributor... so maybe a couple teeth advanced on the distributor. Pulled that and went counterclockwise. Which I think is advancing it further. No start. Pulled again and went two forward. No start.

            Had to stop to get dinner on the table. Needed to clear brain anyway to think this one through.

            Major concern is why a cylinder seems to have no compression. It held air for the valve seals after rotating the valves to clear corrosion on the seats. This was my first cam install but it seemed pretty foolproof. Who knows. I lined up the two timing gear dots at number 1 TDC compression stroke. Gonna troubleshoot this weekend. Verify compression and timing. Suggestions welcome.

            It didn’t catch on fire so there’s that.
            1990 Country Squire - weekend cruiser, next project
            1988 Crown Vic LTD Wagon - waiting in the wings

            GMN Box Panther History
            Box Panther Horsepower and Torque Ratings
            Box Panther Production Numbers

            Comment


              #96
              Verified Distributor timing last night and got it right. I think it was right to start with, and then I got excited and moved it the other day.

              Here's a Video of cranking. You can hear the no compression cylinder. Going to verify some compression numbers tomorrow. Seems to be good on leakdown, but no cranking compression. Again, going to verify tomorrow.

              https://drive.google.com/file/d/1cO8...ew?usp=sharing

              Got it running minus the one cylinder. Does it sound right (minus the cylinder)?

              https://drive.google.com/file/d/1bYX...ew?usp=sharing
              Last edited by Tiggie; 12-11-2020, 11:38 AM.
              1990 Country Squire - weekend cruiser, next project
              1988 Crown Vic LTD Wagon - waiting in the wings

              GMN Box Panther History
              Box Panther Horsepower and Torque Ratings
              Box Panther Production Numbers

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                #97
                I'm at work and our security won't let me view the video. If you've verified the initial timing and you don't have a cracked spark plug or a bad wire, my next look would be the lifters for that cylinder. If you replaced the cam and lifters it's not uncommon these days to get bad ones out of the box. Either failing to pump up or sticking in the collapsed position is something they just do. If you have any other valve covers you can cut windows in them to watch everything working and verify proper oiling and drainback. I've done this quite a few times and it's really not a big deal. SOMETIMES you get lucky and find the lifter...Screw with the pushrod after removing the rocker arm, and they'll let go. Good luck.
                All FORD All The Time

                Comment


                  #98
                  I cannot comment on things sounding correct but have you let it run long enough while you pull plug wires to verify which cylinders are firing and which ones aren't by listening for a change in tone?
                  ~David~

                  My 1987 Crown Victoria Coupe: The Brown Blob
                  My 2004 Mercedes Benz E320:The Benz

                  Originally posted by ootdega
                  My life is a long series of "nevermind" and "I guess not."

                  Originally posted by DerekTheGreat
                  But, that's just coming from me, this site's biggest pessimist. Best of luck

                  Originally posted by gadget73
                  my car starts and it has AC. Yours doesn't start and it has no AC. Seems obvious to me.




                  Comment


                    #99
                    Originally posted by clutch47 View Post
                    I'm at work and our security won't let me view the video. If you've verified the initial timing and you don't have a cracked spark plug or a bad wire, my next look would be the lifters for that cylinder. If you replaced the cam and lifters it's not uncommon these days to get bad ones out of the box. Either failing to pump up or sticking in the collapsed position is something they just do. If you have any other valve covers you can cut windows in them to watch everything working and verify proper oiling and drainback. I've done this quite a few times and it's really not a big deal. SOMETIMES you get lucky and find the lifter...Screw with the pushrod after removing the rocker arm, and they'll let go. Good luck.
                    I do have a valve cover that be used for that purpose. The lifters are the original roller lifters to this engine. They were used. This engine also sat for so long so it’s possible a lifter had pressure on it for decades which may have made it unhappy. I can remove the rocker and move that pushrod around while running?

                    Anyone chime in here: if the intake valve isn’t opening, would that make it easier to crank? I’ve been operating under the idea that an exhaust valve is hanging open or is bent.

                    It’s also possible someone tried to start this with nasty fuel while still in the donor car. I haven’t heard an EFI engine do it, but I know that can stick a valve on carb’d stuff.

                    Originally posted by 87gtVIC View Post
                    I cannot comment on things sounding correct but have you let it run long enough while you pull plug wires to verify which cylinders are firing and which ones aren't by listening for a change in tone?
                    It doesn’t have any water/antifreeze in it yet so I don’t know how long I can run it.

                    Compression and spark checks tomorrow.
                    1990 Country Squire - weekend cruiser, next project
                    1988 Crown Vic LTD Wagon - waiting in the wings

                    GMN Box Panther History
                    Box Panther Horsepower and Torque Ratings
                    Box Panther Production Numbers

                    Comment


                      You cant run it long without water but you can crank it with no covers or cut covers to take a gander on valve action.
                      03 Marauder DPB, HS, 6disk, Organizer Mods> LED's in & Out, M&Z rear control arms, Oil deflector, U-Haul Trans Pan, Blue Fuzzy Dice
                      02 SL500 Silver Arrow
                      08 TC Signature Limited, HID's Mods>235/55-17 Z rated BFG G-Force Comp-2 A/S Plus, Addco 1" rear Sway, Posi Carrier, Compustar Remote Start, floor liners, trunk organizer, Two part Sun Visors, B&M Trans drain Plug, Winter=05 Mustang GT rims, Nokian Hakkapeliitta R-2 235/55-17
                      12 Escape Limited V6 AWD, 225/65R17 Vredestein Quatrac Pro, Winter 235/70-16 Conti Viking Contact7 Mods>Beamtech LED headlight bulbs, Husky floor liners

                      Comment


                        Did a lot of troubleshooting today.

                        Short story: I think the cam timing is off. Advanced I think? Not really sure.

                        How I think I know: It runs pretty good with the timing retarded 40 degrees. The miss is gone, all cylinders firing happily.

                        Other things:
                        Number 4 was the dead cylinder (exhaust port not getting warm). It has 150psi of cranking compression. It has spark also. Got a new plug and a different wire just to verify. It was just letting the compression out before the spark got there.

                        Tried the lopo firing order. It ran but not well. My cam is supposed to be a stock early grind HO but it’s more or less me taking a guy at his word. But it runs better on the HO order.

                        Sounds like a drag car at 12 degrees timing. Until you retard the timing 40 degrees. Then it sounds kind of like an HO should for the most part.

                        It crosses my mind that the balancer reading is wrong. It’s at zero at TDC compression. It doesn’t run very well at normal levels of timing, 6-12 degrees. The balancer is new and has several sets of timing marks but I’m pretty confident it’s one the correct set with my timing pointer. TDC compression at zero on the balancer is pretty foolproof? I know it’s the compression cycle.

                        Out of time today. Going to try to verify cam timing tomorrow by looking at the timing gear marks. Don’t have a degree wheel. Do I have to have one?
                        1990 Country Squire - weekend cruiser, next project
                        1988 Crown Vic LTD Wagon - waiting in the wings

                        GMN Box Panther History
                        Box Panther Horsepower and Torque Ratings
                        Box Panther Production Numbers

                        Comment


                          If you really want to know if the cam is timed correctly then you need to degree it. Unfortunately a kit cost around $100. You also need to know all of the higher output cam specs, which should be easy to find online. Even if it is dot to dot It might not be correct. Although it’s highly unlikely it’s off by that much, usually it’s only off by a few degrees if that. It’s too bad you don’t live closer by, I just got a degree kit for my cam. I would let you borrow it
                          Last edited by Brown_Muscle; 12-12-2020, 05:40 PM.
                          -Phil

                          sigpic

                          +1982 Ford LTD-S Police Car. Built 351w, Trickflow 11R 190 Heads, Holley Sniper EFI, RPM Intake+ Hyperspark dizzy, WR-AOD, Full exhaust headers to tails. 3.27 Trac-Lok Rear. Aluminum Police Driveshaft. Speedway Springs+Bilstein Shocks, Intermediate Brakes, HPP Steering Box.

                          +2003 Acura CL Type S 6-speed

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                            I would definitely double check the balancer marks. sometimes there are different key -ways to install them on as well. Sounds more like ignition timing issue than a cam timing issue
                            -Phil

                            sigpic

                            +1982 Ford LTD-S Police Car. Built 351w, Trickflow 11R 190 Heads, Holley Sniper EFI, RPM Intake+ Hyperspark dizzy, WR-AOD, Full exhaust headers to tails. 3.27 Trac-Lok Rear. Aluminum Police Driveshaft. Speedway Springs+Bilstein Shocks, Intermediate Brakes, HPP Steering Box.

                            +2003 Acura CL Type S 6-speed

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                              At this point, I’m a timing cover and balancer away from knowing for sure if the cam is right on. I’ll check it for peace of mind. I’ve always thought a degree wheel was nice but you could get pretty close without it. Hopefully I am right. Gonna check the balancer again.

                              What’s normal compression on a lopo? I thought 150 was good but honestly a little higher than expected.
                              1990 Country Squire - weekend cruiser, next project
                              1988 Crown Vic LTD Wagon - waiting in the wings

                              GMN Box Panther History
                              Box Panther Horsepower and Torque Ratings
                              Box Panther Production Numbers

                              Comment


                                Yeah for your application, you should be fine. It's generally for piece of mind in case the timing set, or something else is off, especially with higher performance engines looking to get every bit of power out of a build

                                150 is good, especially if they are all close to that number, variation among cylinders is what you don't want
                                -Phil

                                sigpic

                                +1982 Ford LTD-S Police Car. Built 351w, Trickflow 11R 190 Heads, Holley Sniper EFI, RPM Intake+ Hyperspark dizzy, WR-AOD, Full exhaust headers to tails. 3.27 Trac-Lok Rear. Aluminum Police Driveshaft. Speedway Springs+Bilstein Shocks, Intermediate Brakes, HPP Steering Box.

                                +2003 Acura CL Type S 6-speed

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