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    #16
    Even a big radiator has tiny passages. If the engine is full of gunk, a big radiator will still clog.
    I'd suggest bypassing the heater core temporarily (so as to avoid damaging it), and having a radiator shop (or at least a shop that is set up to do a chemical flush of the cooling system, not just the garden hose type flush) go through the system.
    If you're feeling energetic, pull the water pump and make sure it's not gunked up and that the impeller is actually in good shape. I've seen more than a few cars where the impeller came off the shaft, or the blades just eroded away (especially if they were low on coolant or had leaks to where they could cavitate).

    Also check your timing. Sometimes if it's advanced a bit too far, aside from pinging, it can nudge the temperature higher.

    Last but not least: just to be sure--it's actually overheating, and not just a gauge reading or a light coming on? I'm pretty sure you've verified that, but back when I was a mechanic i had more than one customer come in prepared for major cooling work and leave with a sensor or switch.

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      #17
      The only time I’ve had my car get hotter than I like is idling in stop and go traffic for long periods of time in 85+ degree temps and the AC on (getting up to 210-215ish). My engines coolant system has always been pristine. switching to the larger aluminum radiator fixed the issue.
      -Phil

      sigpic

      +1982 Ford LTD-S Police Car. Built 351w, Trickflow 11R 190 Heads, Holley Sniper EFI, RPM Intake+ Hyperspark dizzy, WR-AOD, Full exhaust headers to tails. 3.27 Trac-Lok Rear. Aluminum Police Driveshaft. Speedway Springs+Bilstein Shocks, Intermediate Brakes, HPP Steering Box.

      +2003 Acura CL Type S 6-speed

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        #18
        The stock radiator will get it done, but only if its not clogged up with muck and the clutch fan is working. There isn't a ton of extra capacity though so once the cooling system starts to get in bad shape you'll have problems. They get real nasty when the coolant is never changed, or its filled with straight water. If its mixed with hard tap water, that can also be troublesome. I've gotten lots of crusty shit out of radiators that were filled off the garden hose.
        86 Lincoln Town Car (Galactica).
        5.0 HO, CompCams XE258,Scorpion 1.72 roller rockers, 3.55 K code rear, tow package, BHPerformance ported E7 heads, Tmoss Explorer intake, 65mm throttle body, Hedman 1 5/8" headers, 2.5" dual exhaust, ASP underdrive pulley

        91 Lincoln Mark VII LSC grandpa spec white and cranberry

        1984 Lincoln Continental TurboDiesel - rolls coal

        Originally posted by phayzer5
        I drive a Lincoln. I can't be bothered to shift like the peasants and rabble rousers

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          #19
          Only times mine have gotten hot were while towing with the stock radiator or when the thermal clutch died and got stuck in traffic.

          Only two things are infinite, the universe and human stupidity, and I'm not sure about the former. -- Albert Einstein
          rides: 93 Crown Vic LX (The Red Velvet Cake), 2000 Crown Vic base model (Sandy), 2003 Expedition (the vacation beast)
          Originally posted by gadget73
          ... and it should all work like magic and unicorns and stuff.
          Originally posted by dmccaig
          Overhead, some poor bastards are flying in airplanes.

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            #20
            I agree also with the timing should be checked along with checking slop in the timing chain. If the chain has stretched significantly and the base timing has been adjusted to compensate it could lead to higher than normal temperatures, not to mention engine oil sludge build up in the block can lead to can lead to over heating by retaining heat and restricting oil flow.
            A stock sized radiator on a properly maintained vehicle should be all any car needs under normal driving conditions.
            2007 Ford Crown Victoria LX Sport

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              #21
              Originally posted by sly View Post
              Only times mine have gotten hot were while towing with the stock radiator or when the thermal clutch died and got stuck in traffic.
              X2

              Fan clutch replaced and it’s been cool as a cucumber.
              1990 Country Squire - weekend cruiser, next project
              1988 Crown Vic LTD Wagon - waiting in the wings

              GMN Box Panther History
              Box Panther Horsepower and Torque Ratings
              Box Panther Production Numbers

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                #22
                Didn’t I see something floating around about an F250 radiator retrofit for awhile? Regardless, all the radiator in the world is useless if the block is sludged up and it’s not efficiently rejecting heat into the cooling system.
                '85 CV coupe- 351W, T5-Z, FAST Ez-Efi, shorty headers, 2.5" duals with knock off flowmasters, 2.5" Impala tails, seriously worked GT-40 irons, Comp 265DEH cam, 1.7rr's, Mallory HyFire 6A, Taylor ThunderVolt 50 10.4mm wires, 75mm t/b, 3G alt swap, 140mph PI speedo, PI rear sway bar, '00 PI booster/MC, 95-97 front spindles, '99 front hub bearings/brakes, '92-'94 front upper control arms/ball-joints, 3.73's with rebuilt traction-lok, '09 PI rear disc swap, '96 Mustang GT wheels with 235/55R17's.

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                  #23
                  I put a dual core 1990 4.9L (300 straight 6) F150 radiator in my 93. The boxes should use the 5.0L radiator IIRC to get the trans cooler on the correct side. Modifications require cutting off the side supports from the tanks on the radiator and hogging out the lower radiator support block on the thin side to fit the thicker radiator as well as getting another long side upper radiator bracket. You will also need to plug the "steam port" on the radiator as the panthers are not equipped with that top little hose.

                  Only two things are infinite, the universe and human stupidity, and I'm not sure about the former. -- Albert Einstein
                  rides: 93 Crown Vic LX (The Red Velvet Cake), 2000 Crown Vic base model (Sandy), 2003 Expedition (the vacation beast)
                  Originally posted by gadget73
                  ... and it should all work like magic and unicorns and stuff.
                  Originally posted by dmccaig
                  Overhead, some poor bastards are flying in airplanes.

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                    #24
                    I think part of the problem with my Malibu was that I never thought of checking the block to see if it was clogged. Once that started having vapor locking issues, I automatically went with a 4-row unit. That problem went away; the other problem I had with that car was during the winter it wouldn't get warmer than 170*. I used to block the radiator with cardboard to get it above 180*; and monitor the temperature (for temps over 40*F). This thread reminds me of how much fun I had with that car :-/

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                      #25
                      I really don't think you need a truck radiator. One of the larger units that fits into the un-modified rad support is more than capable of cooling one of these cars. Consider they left the factory with a single row aluminum and it got the job done. Fit a 2 or 3 core aluminum and it will get rid of heat like nobody's business so long as the fan is moving air across it.
                      86 Lincoln Town Car (Galactica).
                      5.0 HO, CompCams XE258,Scorpion 1.72 roller rockers, 3.55 K code rear, tow package, BHPerformance ported E7 heads, Tmoss Explorer intake, 65mm throttle body, Hedman 1 5/8" headers, 2.5" dual exhaust, ASP underdrive pulley

                      91 Lincoln Mark VII LSC grandpa spec white and cranberry

                      1984 Lincoln Continental TurboDiesel - rolls coal

                      Originally posted by phayzer5
                      I drive a Lincoln. I can't be bothered to shift like the peasants and rabble rousers

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                        #26
                        The stock larger radiator still requires the longer mount for both sides instead of one short and one long and the hogging out of the lower rubber mount to get the larger stock rad to fit.

                        Only two things are infinite, the universe and human stupidity, and I'm not sure about the former. -- Albert Einstein
                        rides: 93 Crown Vic LX (The Red Velvet Cake), 2000 Crown Vic base model (Sandy), 2003 Expedition (the vacation beast)
                        Originally posted by gadget73
                        ... and it should all work like magic and unicorns and stuff.
                        Originally posted by dmccaig
                        Overhead, some poor bastards are flying in airplanes.

                        Comment


                          #27
                          Click image for larger version

Name:	483ADF68-E89F-48D7-9032-02F96EF5B7E9.jpeg
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ID:	1287002Knocked out a freeze plug and there wasn’t any sludge just rusty water. My radiator looks small. I’ll add a picture of it. Is this a small radiator? Maybe I’ll try to buy a bigger one at junk yard.

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                            #28
                            Looks about as large as the one in my car. Nick installed it before I got it, and it's been fine. It has spent plenty of 95*+ days in the southeast in traffic or on long trips and never overheated. I've got a temperature gauge installed, and it's stays steady after the thermostat opens.

                            A good clean system is important, along with a water pump that's doing its job, no leaks in the system, a functional fan clutch, a thermostat that works, and a radiator cap that's actually holding pressure.

                            If that brown stuff is what's coming out of the car, it needs a real good flushing. Some mild discoloration isn't horrible if it's with normal coolant that's changed regularly, but ugly brown rusty color coming out with stuff isn't good. Reminds me of folks who just fill cars with straight water and it rusts the whole system out. That buildup can certainly reduce the effectiveness of the radiator. That said, if the radiator has a bunch of scale/gunk build up and chemical flushing doesn't clean it out, you may need to replace it. However, if the system isn't clean and you just toss in a radiator, you'll be back doing the same thing.

                            An acquaintance of mine got an '84 Mustang with a cooling system that was serviced with just water prior to his ownership. I took a heater hose off, removed the lower radiator hose, and just ran water from the heater line back through everything and kept going until it started turning clear. Super nasty. Did similar work on the radiator until things got clean. Then chemically flushed the system until everything started running clear. Refilled with 50/50 mix and it was all good afterwards.
                            Last edited by Kodachrome Wolf; 05-17-2020, 12:29 AM.


                            My Cars:
                            -1964 Comet 202 (116K Miles) - Long Term Project
                            -1986 Dodge D-150 Royale SE (112K Miles) - Slowly Getting Put Back Together
                            -1987 Grand Marquis Colony Park LS (325K Miles) - April 2017 + September 2019 POTM Winner
                            -1997 Grand Marquis LS (240K Miles) - The Daily Workhorse & March 2015 + January 2019 POTM Winner

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                              #29
                              looks like the standard one. Prob half clogged. A good stock radiator and a good clutch fan will get the job done fine but if either are in bad shape, no dice.

                              rusty water in the block means its got rusty crap everywhere else too. Prob why the radiator doesn't cool the car off. I'd give that a flush and maybe a new thermostat just for grins.
                              86 Lincoln Town Car (Galactica).
                              5.0 HO, CompCams XE258,Scorpion 1.72 roller rockers, 3.55 K code rear, tow package, BHPerformance ported E7 heads, Tmoss Explorer intake, 65mm throttle body, Hedman 1 5/8" headers, 2.5" dual exhaust, ASP underdrive pulley

                              91 Lincoln Mark VII LSC grandpa spec white and cranberry

                              1984 Lincoln Continental TurboDiesel - rolls coal

                              Originally posted by phayzer5
                              I drive a Lincoln. I can't be bothered to shift like the peasants and rabble rousers

                              Comment


                                #30
                                Thank you for the pointers. Am doing a lot of work on the car mostly for the hell of it. Gets very hot in Tucson, AZ. I’ll keep the forum posted on progress and results. This forum is invaluable in making this old car run and run well.

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