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    #16
    +1, 1/4. I've used 5/16 and may have started that misinformation. The clamp seals it just fine and the 5/16 hose comes off real easy next time.
    Vic

    ~ 1989 MGM LS Colony Park - Large Marge
    ~ 1998 MGM LS - new DD
    ~ 1991 MGM LS "The Scab"
    ~ 1991 MGM GS "The Ice Car"

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      #17
      Well I've taken the plunge down the rabbit hole of gaskets, vacuum lines, hoses, and generally cleaning things out. Fel-Pro gaskets and a new thermostat are already ordered.

      I discovered another vacuum line coming off the front of the intake that ran up toward the battery and was tucked behind the header panel. The diagram I've found doesn't show any vacuum for the horn, so I assume someone disconnected it long ago and the engine has been running with a vacuum leak for a very long time. It might've gone to something labeled 'CPRV' on the way to 'V REST' and what I assume is the charcoal canister and fuel tank? Not really sure what the implications of that leak might be on the previously vacuum-receiving end.

      I also understand that I should probably replace the lower intake manifold bolts when I put in the new gasket. What is the part number for these? It looks like LMR sells a replacement set, but 45 bucks for 12 bolts seems a little steep. And are there any other bolts on the intake or throttle body that shouldn't be reused?
      1987 Lincoln Town Car - Signature, "Prudence"

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        #18
        That should be the canister purge solenoid, CANP. It hangs in space between the battery and the AC compressor. The other side of that solenoid goes to the charcoal can under the battery. So long as the manifold side is not leaking it won't usually cause major problems but if the manifold side is open it will be unhappy. I've had that hose sliced by the belt from improper routing before. Makes the idle high and stupid.
        86 Lincoln Town Car (Galactica).
        5.0 HO, CompCams XE258,Scorpion 1.72 roller rockers, 3.55 K code rear, tow package, BHPerformance ported E7 heads, Tmoss Explorer intake, 65mm throttle body, Hedman 1 5/8" headers, 2.5" dual exhaust, ASP underdrive pulley

        91 Lincoln Mark VII LSC grandpa spec white and cranberry

        1984 Lincoln Continental TurboDiesel - rolls coal

        Originally posted by phayzer5
        I drive a Lincoln. I can't be bothered to shift like the peasants and rabble rousers

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          #19
          I did have an emissions test last fall (just to see where the car was at) and it passed, but nearly failed hydrocarbons at idle. I wonder if the CANP being disconnected would have anything to do with that.
          1987 Lincoln Town Car - Signature, "Prudence"

          Comment


            #20
            if the vacuum side was unhooked, probably. Low vacuum to the MAP makes the ECM add fuel.
            86 Lincoln Town Car (Galactica).
            5.0 HO, CompCams XE258,Scorpion 1.72 roller rockers, 3.55 K code rear, tow package, BHPerformance ported E7 heads, Tmoss Explorer intake, 65mm throttle body, Hedman 1 5/8" headers, 2.5" dual exhaust, ASP underdrive pulley

            91 Lincoln Mark VII LSC grandpa spec white and cranberry

            1984 Lincoln Continental TurboDiesel - rolls coal

            Originally posted by phayzer5
            I drive a Lincoln. I can't be bothered to shift like the peasants and rabble rousers

            Comment


              #21
              Turns out the canister purge solenoid was attached to the line. It was so totally encrusted in dirt, though, that I didn't notice it. Also surprising was my discovery that the charcoal canister lives under the battery by the cornering lamp. I had thought for some reason that it would be back by the gas tank. They didn't make it easy to get a good look at that thing, but it shouldn't be too hard to reattach the vacuum line.

              I took my first step toward working on the actual engine yesterday by pulling apart the throttle body and upper intake. I didn't expect everything behind the throttle plate to be so thoroughly coated in carbon. It looks like the buildup on the intake passage is thicker and 'wetter' than the exhaust return beneath it. Is this normal and should I try to clean what I can in there? It looks like it's impossible to physically reach most of the intake, but maybe a little cleaning is better than nothing.

              The gasket to the lower intake has '93334' written on it, which makes me think it's a Fel-Pro and someone's been here before.
              Attached Files
              1987 Lincoln Town Car - Signature, "Prudence"

              Comment


                #22
                They get nasty. Small center hole is exhaust gas flow for EGR, which ends up pulling through the 8 runners when the EGR valve opens. It also gets some oil through the PCV. I wouldn't go crazy with it but if you can dump some degreaser in there to soak for a while and give it a scrub it won't hurt. Spray 9 works pretty good and won't destroy aluminum. The others also work but just watch leaving anything with sodium hydroxide (lye) as an active ingredient in conctact with aluminum for too long. It does bad things.

                if the valve covers are not leaking oil, thats probably why someone has been here before. The cork gaskets these came with 30+ years ago just don't survive forever. The lower intake gasket in the rear is also a common oil vomit point.
                86 Lincoln Town Car (Galactica).
                5.0 HO, CompCams XE258,Scorpion 1.72 roller rockers, 3.55 K code rear, tow package, BHPerformance ported E7 heads, Tmoss Explorer intake, 65mm throttle body, Hedman 1 5/8" headers, 2.5" dual exhaust, ASP underdrive pulley

                91 Lincoln Mark VII LSC grandpa spec white and cranberry

                1984 Lincoln Continental TurboDiesel - rolls coal

                Originally posted by phayzer5
                I drive a Lincoln. I can't be bothered to shift like the peasants and rabble rousers

                Comment


                  #23
                  It appears, after a little cleaning around the edges, that the valve cover gaskets have been replaced. I was going to pull the covers just to see how things look inside, but now I'm thinking it might be better to just leave them be.

                  I'm having a hell of a time disconnecting the fuel lines. I think I understand how the disconnects work in principle, but in practice they aren't budging. I'm also not sure where I should be sticking the disconnect tool. The line over by the thermostat appears to have room to stick a disconnect tool over the narrowest part of the line, pulling it apart from the larger, transmission-shaped thing. But on the other line the geometry differs and the line flares into the largest part of the "transmission" apparatus. The only place I can seem to fit a disconnect tool is on the back side of the flared part, as shown in the picture attached. But it looks like there's an o-ring in there.

                  So all in all I'm a little confused. But I'm hoping to get the fuel rail disconnected and off so I can move on to the part where the intake bolts snap off on me.
                  Attached Files
                  1987 Lincoln Town Car - Signature, "Prudence"

                  Comment


                    #24
                    You have it on right. Push it up in there as far as it will go to release the clip. Then you have to pull, hard, if they haven’t been messed with in a while. Sometimes helps to have a helper pull the other side of the line while you hold the tool in and pull the opposing side.
                    1990 Country Squire - weekend cruiser, next project
                    1988 Crown Vic LTD Wagon - waiting in the wings

                    GMN Box Panther History
                    Box Panther Horsepower and Torque Ratings
                    Box Panther Production Numbers

                    Comment


                      #25
                      I seriously underestimated how hard I had to pull to get get it off, but one down, one to go.

                      The last big thing I'm uncertain about is pulling the distributor. If I understand correctly, the cap should only go on one way, so that shouldn't be a problem. Then the rotor and distributor both can move and are important to mark their position. The rotor should be fixed in place by the gear, so I don't need to worry too much about getting that right? But the distributor will rotate in place as soon as I loosen the bolt? What I don't have a good feel for is how fussy that rotation is to the ignition timing. Does one degree of rotation on the distributor equal one degree on the timing mark? If so then I guess I have to be basically dead on with the position to retain the old timing.
                      1987 Lincoln Town Car - Signature, "Prudence"

                      Comment


                        #26
                        Oh yeah, you better believe you ought to record the position of the rotor before you pull the dizzy out. I made that mistake with Ashley's old '89 TC. I ended up stabbing the thing back in a tooth retarded. Fired right up but had zero balls, couldn't even get it out of the grass.. Lots of steam from the exhaust too, I think it was the tig man himself who helped us out of that bind. I was mere millimeters away from calling a tow truck..
                        1985 LTD Crown Victoria - SOLD
                        1988 Town Car Signature - Current Party Barge

                        Comment


                          #27
                          The rotor will rotate too when you pull it out. Mark the tip of the rotor to the distributor cap “bottom part”. Mark the base of the distributor at the engine block. As long as both line up when put it back in, you are good.
                          1990 Country Squire - weekend cruiser, next project
                          1988 Crown Vic LTD Wagon - waiting in the wings

                          GMN Box Panther History
                          Box Panther Horsepower and Torque Ratings
                          Box Panther Production Numbers

                          Comment


                            #28
                            Dont rotate engine while dizzy is removed.
                            ~David~

                            My 1987 Crown Victoria Coupe: The Brown Blob
                            My 2004 Mercedes Benz E320:The Benz

                            Originally posted by ootdega
                            My life is a long series of "nevermind" and "I guess not."

                            Originally posted by DerekTheGreat
                            But, that's just coming from me, this site's biggest pessimist. Best of luck

                            Originally posted by gadget73
                            my car starts and it has AC. Yours doesn't start and it has no AC. Seems obvious to me.




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                              #29
                              I usually mark the rotor position twice, once with the distributor installed, and again when it comes out. Makes it slightly easier to re-align when it goes back in. Make sure the gasket set comes with the distributor O-ring too. Lube that when you install it otherwise it will be annoying.

                              +1 on not rotating the engine.

                              Its not all that hard to re-orient those parts if something does happen but no point in doing it if you don't have to.
                              86 Lincoln Town Car (Galactica).
                              5.0 HO, CompCams XE258,Scorpion 1.72 roller rockers, 3.55 K code rear, tow package, BHPerformance ported E7 heads, Tmoss Explorer intake, 65mm throttle body, Hedman 1 5/8" headers, 2.5" dual exhaust, ASP underdrive pulley

                              91 Lincoln Mark VII LSC grandpa spec white and cranberry

                              1984 Lincoln Continental TurboDiesel - rolls coal

                              Originally posted by phayzer5
                              I drive a Lincoln. I can't be bothered to shift like the peasants and rabble rousers

                              Comment


                                #30
                                I made great strides toward unearthing the lower intake today. Distributor was marked and removed. The new gasket set did come with a replacement o-ring, but the distributor itself is only 7 months old (after the ignition pickup died just out of Eureka on our honeymoon.) Are these o-rings single use or can they go a few years between replacement?

                                The fuel rail made it off following the disconnect of the second line. I didn't think it'd ever come apart, but after plenty of coaxing and pulling it finally humored me and came loose. So far I've spilled a little gas and coolant, which probably makes me an eco-fugitive in the State of California.

                                I removed the stud holding the upper alternator bracket to the intake and found the threads coated in a bit of oil. Not sure whether this means the head to intake gasket failed and I've been burning oil in the #5 cylinder (and maybe elsewhere), or oil has just been pouring out the front and rear valley seals and a little splashed up from below.

                                Tomorrow is the moment of truth. I hit all the bolts with a little WD40 overnight to hopefully loosen up anything that might need it. If I can get everything unbolted without issue then I think I'll be okay. I have FelPro replacement gaskets, including the rubber pieces that span between the heads. Are these worth using over a thick bead of RTV? And what's the best practice on sealant around the coolant passages? Is it a little extra insurance or am I potentially compromising the gasket's effectiveness by adding more material around these points?
                                Attached Files
                                1987 Lincoln Town Car - Signature, "Prudence"

                                Comment

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