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Thread: My 87 TC stereo/ Anyone add a powered subwoofer to Premium Sound?

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    Member ZackN920's Avatar
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    Default My 87 TC stereo/ Anyone add a powered subwoofer to Premium Sound?

    Hey guys. Since my Lincoln is more so a weekend cruiser (or would be if it weren't for this pandemic) it gets a little more road time than the everyday daily drivers that I'm in for 5 minutes at a time. And because I don't have loud exhaust on this one (like every other vehicle I own) I figured I should at least have a stereo that I like the sound of.

    For the most part though, this "premium sound" really sucks ass- in my pov. The only thing good about it is that it's reliable and everything seems to work... Unlike the stereo in my full size jeep that cuts out whenever it feels like...

    Big + for me is that the tape deck works great, and that's one main reason I want to keep It. I have more cassettes than cd's and don't have any kind of an mp3 player. That and all aftermarket stereos now a days look gaudy as hell and stupid in an old classic car like this. They also expect ya to have a bigass sub and external amps to sound any good and I don't like clutter/wasted space in my vehicles.

    Overall, It sounds ok but has no real bass. I can crank bass up but it sounds more like a low midrange to me. Another thing about my system is that it doesn't sound the same side to side. The right and left channels sound different. Almost a little muddy on the left and little more clear on the right. One side has deeper bass as well- don't remember which at this time. If they sounded the same, I'd be a little more satisfied with the system.
    I'm really not sure if this is a problem with the head unit or the "wonderfull" football octagon silver amp in the back... That I keep reading is a shitty bastard set up- especially in the 87's. Problem sounds worse in the front half of the car rather than the rear, which I have read is powered strictly by the head unit. That's why in the past I thought it was more so that amp.

    Anyways- on to what this thread is about. I figure I could tolerate the system better If I could get a little more bass from a dedicated sub rather than having the bass at max all the time. Really don't want to take up much space in the trunk. Also don't want to add a bunch of weight. Through research, I have learned about these "powered" all in one mini subs you can get. Then once hooked up, can be slid under a seat. Anyone try one of these in their car? I'm not looking to rattle windows, just add some low end to the sound inside the car. The one I'm looking at for the car would fit underneath either front seat.

    If I do this how do you pull the rear seat in an 87 Lincoln ? I figure I would splice into the wires for the rear speakers to send line level input into the mini sub amp and then run the wires under the carpeting.

    Whatcha all think?
    1987 Lincoln Town Car Signature Series-98k miles- LOPO 302, AOD, open 3.27, Dual exhaust w/ Thrush Turbo mufflers

    the others...
    1926 Dodge Brothers Business Sedan- 212ci I4/3 speed/crank start
    1987 Dodge Dakota- 3.9/A999/3.90/2wd (storage)
    1990 Jeep Grand Wagoneer-AMC360/727/NP229/3.08/2" lift(daily)
    1994 GMC Burban L05 350/4L60e/241/3.42
    2001 Jeep Cherokee 4.0/AW4/231/3.73 (limbo)

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    Beater gonna beat sly's Avatar
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    The difference side to side may be a channel going out in the amp. When I originally got the Mark VI I ended up selling to sxcpotatoes, it had the front right channel dead on the premium sound. It would work fine from the head unit with the premium amp turned off. I ended up just replacing all of it with aftermarket stuff. It was pretty easy in that car since it was 8-wires from the amp back up to the head unit area and then out to the speakers so I could just remove the amp loop and use the power connector and 8-wire speaker connector for the aftermarket stuff.

    That said...
    If you really want to keep yours stock, running an amp that uses speaker inputs (high level) to drive a subwoofer and just tapping off the rear speakers would probably work the best for you. May add more distortion depending on how clean the premium sound amp is now. You may also need to have the premium sound amp rebuilt (replaces caps at least).

    Only two things are infinite, the universe and human stupidity, and I'm not sure about the former. -- Albert Einstein
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    I'm an air-conditioned gypsy gadget73's Avatar
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    the premium sound amps are pretty wimpy honestly. I dumped it in the Continental for period correct JBL and its way better. About 4x the power, and it will actually produce decent bass.

    86 Lincoln Town Car (Galactica).
    5.0 HO, CompCams XE258,Scorpion 1.72 roller rockers, 3.55 K code rear, tow package, BHPerformance ported E7 heads, Tmoss Explorer intake, 65mm throttle body, Hedman 1 5/8" headers, 2.5" dual exhaust, ASP underdrive pulley

    91 Lincoln Mark VII LSC SE, triple black (Timewarp) - poly front bushings, KYB struts and shocks, Holley SystemMax1 lower intake, SilverFox AOD valve body,

    1984 Lincoln Continental TurboDiesel - rolls coal

    Quote Originally Posted by phayzer5 View Post
    I drive a Lincoln. I can't be bothered to shift like the peasants and rabble rousers

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    Member clutch47's Avatar
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    I'm concocting a similar plan for Sherrie.
    I'm starting with a six-speaker replacement plan, and going from there. It pains me to replace the factory head unit, but I think it's going to have to happen.
    Eventually, She'll end up with a sub of some kind. Nothing too big. We'll see what hatches...
    All FORD All The Time

  5. #5
    I'm an air-conditioned gypsy gadget73's Avatar
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    It should be possible to mate a factory radio with a less-crappy amp but it will need to be an amp that will accept speaker-level inputs. I've never personally done it but there really is nothing unique about the stock radio. The only thing that might get bitchy is the fact there is a single common ground wire for the two front speakers feeding to the amp. The radio itself does actually have + and - for each speaker, but its not hooked up when used with the amp. The rear speakers have 4 wires like you'd expect. The 4 channel amp I think has just 6 wires total for input.

    Handily there are 4 wires heading back to the front, so you can mate an aftermarket amp with the factory harness to avoid running speaker wires up front. Speakers in the trunk are no problem if thats where the amp is going to live.


    I actually converted the Continental to JBL using the factory 1984 harness. The 86 JBL used twisted pairs of wires for the low level signal, 8 total. 4 of them were grounds that went to the same place at each end. Since I had 7 wires heading to the trunk from the factory radio, I just used 4 hots and 3 grounds to get it done. Output from the JBL amp goes to the stock harness to feed the front speakers and direct to the rear speakers from the amp. You could in theory use the wires in a similar way but land them to RCA jacks. I won't guarantee it won't pick up strange noise but it worked out for me. Mind you that is a diesel with no ignition noise or fuel pump wiring to the back.
    Last edited by gadget73; 05-18-2020 at 05:16 PM.

    86 Lincoln Town Car (Galactica).
    5.0 HO, CompCams XE258,Scorpion 1.72 roller rockers, 3.55 K code rear, tow package, BHPerformance ported E7 heads, Tmoss Explorer intake, 65mm throttle body, Hedman 1 5/8" headers, 2.5" dual exhaust, ASP underdrive pulley

    91 Lincoln Mark VII LSC SE, triple black (Timewarp) - poly front bushings, KYB struts and shocks, Holley SystemMax1 lower intake, SilverFox AOD valve body,

    1984 Lincoln Continental TurboDiesel - rolls coal

    Quote Originally Posted by phayzer5 View Post
    I drive a Lincoln. I can't be bothered to shift like the peasants and rabble rousers

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    Member clutch47's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by gadget73 View Post
    Handily there are 4 wires heading back to the front, so you can mate an aftermarket amp with the factory harness to avoid running speaker wires up front. Speakers in the trunk are no problem if thats where the amp is going to live.
    Considering my car is totally uncut, adding the head unit should be a plug-in affair given the right adapter plug...
    In the spirit of adding a 4 channel JBL amp I've had forever.. can you give me more info on the 4 wires you mentioned.?
    All FORD All The Time

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    I'm an air-conditioned gypsy gadget73's Avatar
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    this is from my 86 Towncar manual but I expect an 86 Vic is identical

    RF + W/LG
    RF - DG/O
    LF + O/LG
    LF - LB/W

    If you connect those to your amp, the front speakers will work. Those are the connections at the trunk-mounted amplifier heading to the front speakers.

    The wiring at the head unit end is slightly different though.
    RF+ LG
    LF + W/R
    front - BK/W

    no individual ground wires go from front to back for the front speakers.

    RR+ PK/LB
    RR - DG/O
    LR + PK/LG
    LR - PK/LB

    the rear speakers do share a color for the negative side, but they are individual wires.

    Vics could be had without the premium sound amp. Those cars have 2 wires from each speaker to the radio, no trunk stuff.
    LF -

    86 Lincoln Town Car (Galactica).
    5.0 HO, CompCams XE258,Scorpion 1.72 roller rockers, 3.55 K code rear, tow package, BHPerformance ported E7 heads, Tmoss Explorer intake, 65mm throttle body, Hedman 1 5/8" headers, 2.5" dual exhaust, ASP underdrive pulley

    91 Lincoln Mark VII LSC SE, triple black (Timewarp) - poly front bushings, KYB struts and shocks, Holley SystemMax1 lower intake, SilverFox AOD valve body,

    1984 Lincoln Continental TurboDiesel - rolls coal

    Quote Originally Posted by phayzer5 View Post
    I drive a Lincoln. I can't be bothered to shift like the peasants and rabble rousers

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    Member clutch47's Avatar
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    Thanks. I'm still running the fiberboard boxes over the speakers with the wire retainers and the holey football too.
    Man oh man if someone were enterprising enough to concoct a stock replica head unit with real power, and a corded USB input or Bluetooth I think they'd sell.
    I'm using a cig lighter powered FM transmitter that takes a Micro-USB chip to get music. It actually works pretty well for what it is.
    https://www.amazon.com/Upgraded-Blue...ef_=ast_sto_dp
    All FORD All The Time

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    I'm an air-conditioned gypsy gadget73's Avatar
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    if you don't care about playing tapes, bluetooth wouldn't be that hard to do. Modules exist for doing this kind of thing but I suspect the tape deck would have to go just so there was a place to install the thing. Same for a card reader. Not impossible someone makes a board that does both. Could maybe source such a thing and mount it so the slot is behind the old tape deck door.

    86 Lincoln Town Car (Galactica).
    5.0 HO, CompCams XE258,Scorpion 1.72 roller rockers, 3.55 K code rear, tow package, BHPerformance ported E7 heads, Tmoss Explorer intake, 65mm throttle body, Hedman 1 5/8" headers, 2.5" dual exhaust, ASP underdrive pulley

    91 Lincoln Mark VII LSC SE, triple black (Timewarp) - poly front bushings, KYB struts and shocks, Holley SystemMax1 lower intake, SilverFox AOD valve body,

    1984 Lincoln Continental TurboDiesel - rolls coal

    Quote Originally Posted by phayzer5 View Post
    I drive a Lincoln. I can't be bothered to shift like the peasants and rabble rousers

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    GMN Regular DerekTheGreat's Avatar
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    Like gadget said, I tossed my premium stuff in favor of the JBL goodness which for '88 is plug & play. I also upgraded all the speakers to the JBL units, except for the dash ones as I could never find a set which wasn't roached. However, you can purchase an adapter harness for the signal feed where the factory harness feeds into the factory amp. It'll give you RCA connectors which you can use to power an external amp or split for just and external amp powering a sub. I've never done that but I'd be tempted to with the next Townie I own. Depends how it all sounds, I know there is a hefty amount of EQ built into any of the factory amps and probably a good amount in the decks too.
    1985 LTD Crown Victoria - SOLD
    1988 Town Car Signature - Current Party Barge

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    Member clutch47's Avatar
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    It's going to come down to this for me..
    If I can get the cracking out of the volume and other controls completely and easily It'll stay for a while. The CRC spray we discussed a while ago worked pretty well and almost completely stopped it, but it's still dirty a little bit. I'm going to try it again.
    Should it piss me off, Crutchfield will make another sale.
    All FORD All The Time

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    GMN Regular DerekTheGreat's Avatar
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    I'd be tempted to go that route. I don't care much about car audio like I used to, so I think the factory deck amplified via aftermarket flubber with equally flabby aftermarket sub ought to suit the bill. Least I'd still have the factory deck and appearance.
    1985 LTD Crown Victoria - SOLD
    1988 Town Car Signature - Current Party Barge

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    I'm an air-conditioned gypsy gadget73's Avatar
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    I sorta hate the aftermarket deck in the Towncar. Keep thinking maybe its time to dump it for a stock one, or at least something thats less obnoxious to look at.

    86 Lincoln Town Car (Galactica).
    5.0 HO, CompCams XE258,Scorpion 1.72 roller rockers, 3.55 K code rear, tow package, BHPerformance ported E7 heads, Tmoss Explorer intake, 65mm throttle body, Hedman 1 5/8" headers, 2.5" dual exhaust, ASP underdrive pulley

    91 Lincoln Mark VII LSC SE, triple black (Timewarp) - poly front bushings, KYB struts and shocks, Holley SystemMax1 lower intake, SilverFox AOD valve body,

    1984 Lincoln Continental TurboDiesel - rolls coal

    Quote Originally Posted by phayzer5 View Post
    I drive a Lincoln. I can't be bothered to shift like the peasants and rabble rousers

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    Member ZackN920's Avatar
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    WOW, this thread blew up. I know I've been gone for a week but woah. It'll take me a bit to go through this.


    Quote Originally Posted by sly View Post
    The difference side to side may be a channel going out in the amp. When I originally got the Mark VI I ended up selling to sxcpotatoes, it had the front right channel dead on the premium sound. It would work fine from the head unit with the premium amp turned off. I ended up just replacing all of it with aftermarket stuff. It was pretty easy in that car since it was 8-wires from the amp back up to the head unit area and then out to the speakers so I could just remove the amp loop and use the power connector and 8-wire speaker connector for the aftermarket stuff.

    That said...
    If you really want to keep yours stock, running an amp that uses speaker inputs (high level) to drive a subwoofer and just tapping off the rear speakers would probably work the best for you. May add more distortion depending on how clean the premium sound amp is now. You may also need to have the premium sound amp rebuilt (replaces caps at least).
    Well, I could see ditching the silver football amp. I'm pretty sure the amp is only for the front speakers so IF signal from the head unit is clean and it is just that amp that is screwy I should be fine. I'm pretty sure the rear speakers are driven by the head itself.

    Hmm, I took that amp apart for inspection last winter and everything looked ok. No buldged/odd looking capacitors or bad solder joints. I've also found in the past (while repairing a few vintage stereo receivers) that not all sound problems in solid state equipment is caps. Plenty of times it's been transitor problems as well and that's always harder to diagnose.

    Hopefully it's not the head unit with the problem. I really don't want something different that would look out of place in the car. I should add I've got no problem with pulling it to check it out - if problems are common with these old Ford car stereos.

    Quote Originally Posted by gadget73 View Post
    the premium sound amps are pretty wimpy honestly. I dumped it in the Continental for period correct JBL and its way better. About 4x the power, and it will actually produce decent bass.
    Being wimpy isn't that big of a deal to me since I don't have open exhaust with glasspacks on the car-LOL. Just as long as things sound good is all that matters to me. Good bass, treble, some mid range and it's missing the bass.
    From what I've read though, it won't be easy to swap jbl in my car since it's an 87'. I've read that it's it's own set up that is incompatable with other stock systems. Unless I want to pull apart the interior and rewire everything. I'd like to avoid That.
    That and I still haven't found a parts car in the junkyard that has the JBL equipment. All is either standard or "premium sound".

    Quote Originally Posted by clutch47 View Post
    I'm concocting a similar plan for Sherrie.
    I'm starting with a six-speaker replacement plan, and going from there. It pains me to replace the factory head unit, but I think it's going to have to happen.
    Eventually, She'll end up with a sub of some kind. Nothing too big. We'll see what hatches...
    Are the stock "premium sound" speakers themselves that bad? I really don't know- that's why I ask.
    1987 Lincoln Town Car Signature Series-98k miles- LOPO 302, AOD, open 3.27, Dual exhaust w/ Thrush Turbo mufflers

    the others...
    1926 Dodge Brothers Business Sedan- 212ci I4/3 speed/crank start
    1987 Dodge Dakota- 3.9/A999/3.90/2wd (storage)
    1990 Jeep Grand Wagoneer-AMC360/727/NP229/3.08/2" lift(daily)
    1994 GMC Burban L05 350/4L60e/241/3.42
    2001 Jeep Cherokee 4.0/AW4/231/3.73 (limbo)

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    I'm an air-conditioned gypsy gadget73's Avatar
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    My Continental is about as silent as it gets. It still just had no bass and distorted easily. Everything was working properly, it just sucked. Same speakers with the better amp is a world of improvement. The Conti in 84 had the same system your 87 had. Football premium sound amp, ran the front speakers only. I was able to get creative and make 1986 JBL stuff work using the factory harness and a DIY adapter. The car harness is unmolested and I can plug the football amp back in if I want to. I do have a 4 channel football out of a later car. Slightly more re-work and it can be totally as-built from the factory. No wires are cut, I just moved a few things around. I won't say i advise it since its slightly goofy and I'm still relying on 30 year old electronics that are prone to death. The chips in the JBL amps die and they basically can't be gotten anymore.

    86 Lincoln Town Car (Galactica).
    5.0 HO, CompCams XE258,Scorpion 1.72 roller rockers, 3.55 K code rear, tow package, BHPerformance ported E7 heads, Tmoss Explorer intake, 65mm throttle body, Hedman 1 5/8" headers, 2.5" dual exhaust, ASP underdrive pulley

    91 Lincoln Mark VII LSC SE, triple black (Timewarp) - poly front bushings, KYB struts and shocks, Holley SystemMax1 lower intake, SilverFox AOD valve body,

    1984 Lincoln Continental TurboDiesel - rolls coal

    Quote Originally Posted by phayzer5 View Post
    I drive a Lincoln. I can't be bothered to shift like the peasants and rabble rousers

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    GMN Regular DerekTheGreat's Avatar
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    The JBL 6x9's and dash speakers are notably different from the premium stuff. Door speakers seem to be identical except the JBL's got a "FORD-JBL" sticker on the back. But you will notice cleaner & more defined treble and deeper bass out of those JBL 6x9's. I really like those things, even to this day they are hard to beat without spending $300+ on a new set. JBL was a bad M'er F'er when it came to speakers back in the day. When shit shifted to Mexico in the late 90's, that's about when they fell apart. Shame.
    1985 LTD Crown Victoria - SOLD
    1988 Town Car Signature - Current Party Barge

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    I'm an air-conditioned gypsy gadget73's Avatar
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    Mine is still running the Optimus (old school Radio Shack) rear speakers it came with. Tweeters are blown in them too, so all they're doing is making bass really. Kishy has a set of the proper Conti JBL speakers and grilles for me. The grilles give the midranges someplace to go, they don't clear with the flat rear deck that it has.

    86 Lincoln Town Car (Galactica).
    5.0 HO, CompCams XE258,Scorpion 1.72 roller rockers, 3.55 K code rear, tow package, BHPerformance ported E7 heads, Tmoss Explorer intake, 65mm throttle body, Hedman 1 5/8" headers, 2.5" dual exhaust, ASP underdrive pulley

    91 Lincoln Mark VII LSC SE, triple black (Timewarp) - poly front bushings, KYB struts and shocks, Holley SystemMax1 lower intake, SilverFox AOD valve body,

    1984 Lincoln Continental TurboDiesel - rolls coal

    Quote Originally Posted by phayzer5 View Post
    I drive a Lincoln. I can't be bothered to shift like the peasants and rabble rousers

  18. #18
    Member clutch47's Avatar
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    The stock Premium Sound speakers in my car are well beyond their half-life. 3 have the deathbuzz..
    I'll find a deal on Crutchfield for a matched set of something that'll fit. I think anything available short of a Pringles lid will do better than my 3 bad ones.
    Run of the mill Sony or Kenwoods are fine.
    I have a box of Bass Blockers from back in the day...so they'll live a long life without some really low Hz being thrown at a little speaker.
    We'll see.....
    All FORD All The Time

  19. #19
    I'm an air-conditioned gypsy gadget73's Avatar
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    yeah my door speakers were shot. Seized, no surrounds. Its running a set of Mark VII JBL front speakers I got from Derek. Working speakers > dead speakers.

    The dash speakers are the only ones that really kinda need a bass blocker.

    86 Lincoln Town Car (Galactica).
    5.0 HO, CompCams XE258,Scorpion 1.72 roller rockers, 3.55 K code rear, tow package, BHPerformance ported E7 heads, Tmoss Explorer intake, 65mm throttle body, Hedman 1 5/8" headers, 2.5" dual exhaust, ASP underdrive pulley

    91 Lincoln Mark VII LSC SE, triple black (Timewarp) - poly front bushings, KYB struts and shocks, Holley SystemMax1 lower intake, SilverFox AOD valve body,

    1984 Lincoln Continental TurboDiesel - rolls coal

    Quote Originally Posted by phayzer5 View Post
    I drive a Lincoln. I can't be bothered to shift like the peasants and rabble rousers

  20. #20
    GMN Regular DerekTheGreat's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by gadget73 View Post
    Mine is still running the Optimus (old school Radio Shack) rear speakers it came with. Tweeters are blown in them too, so all they're doing is making bass really. Kishy has a set of the proper Conti JBL speakers and grilles for me. The grilles give the midranges someplace to go, they don't clear with the flat rear deck that it has.
    Funny, later (roundy, late 90's style) JBL equipped Continentals got essentially the same 6x9's box townies got minus the coaxial job- Magnet is the same size (no JBL logo), surrounds are the same and the cone looks to be the same material.. Wiring schematics from Ford dubbed them "subwoofers." The 5x7's Ford stuffed in the rear doors handled midrange and treble. The door speakers are suitable replacements for box door speakers as well, especially if you aren't running dash speakers as those are two way. I put a set of those in our old F150, sounded pretty damn decent.

    Quote Originally Posted by clutch47 View Post
    ...Run of the mill Sony or Kenwoods are fine.
    I have a box of Bass Blockers from back in the day...so they'll live a long life without some really low Hz being thrown at a little speaker.
    We'll see.....
    No my friend, just no. Those will sound harsh and shrill. They won't crackle or buzz but your ears aren't going to be happy with them either. If you must go aftermarket, go Infinity Kappa. Also, pay attention the sensitivity ratings too, especially if you're using the factory stuff deck/football. Anything less than 94dB, don't bother. I've got spare premium and maybe JBL stuff in boxes. I'd rather see you run that stuff in working condition than run aftermarket junk. Tell me what you need and I'll report back with what I've got.
    1985 LTD Crown Victoria - SOLD
    1988 Town Car Signature - Current Party Barge

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