PotM GrandMarq.NET - Panther Headquarters Forum Index PotM
GMN Chat Room GMN's STORE!! GMN's Gallery Please!!
Page 2 of 2 FirstFirst 12
Results 21 to 40 of 40

Thread: ['02 MGM LS] Air suspension diagnostics?

  1. #21
    Member
    Join Date
    Dec 2018
    Location
    Poznan, Poland
    Posts
    53

    Default

    Well, Dereck's writeup says the ride height sensor should be driven with 3.3V during the bench ohm-out. I do not know why said 3.3V specifically.

    It's either a specifically test-bench voltage value, or the air suspension control module indeed steps down from +12 V and outputs 3.3V to the positive input on the height sensor; the height sensor receives input voltage via circuit 418 (control module to air suspension switch (in the trunk), followed by circuit 429 (air suspension switch to height sensor (+) input).
    This indeed will be verified with the diag procedure from the FSM, it includes voltage and ohm testing of circuit 429.
    Last edited by SpitShine_PL; 05-28-2020 at 02:16 AM.
    '00 Mercury Grand Marquis LS, Silver Frost, the "Sharona": runs, drives and currently with mods in progress
    '96 Chrysler Grand Voyager LE 3.3 V6
    "You obviously have not been introduced to the ASTM Guidance for Profanity Gauging of Technical Services, Addendum#1, American English to Polish Scale Conversion, by which a repair done at a rate of 35 kurwas per 5 minutes means normal performance."

  2. #22
    Member
    Join Date
    Dec 2018
    Location
    Poznan, Poland
    Posts
    53

    Default

    UPDATE:

    The weekend was semi-successful with the air suspension diagnostics.
    The vent valve is dead (the diode on the coil and the winding are). Ordered a new compressor from Arnott; the old one had the dryer replaced some time ago, that's why I thought it was OK before I yanked the whole thing out; then I found out that the compressor cylinder casing started to rot, so I decided to relegate it to trash.

    While I didn't begin deep testing the circuits (continuity and volts), I found something funky already.

    I popped the glove box tray wide open and found the air suspension module resting on that white corrugated tube under the dash. Well, when you see a factory module not in its bracket, you know someone's been playing with it.

    Connector C2131b, grey/black wire (circuit 679), goes from the suspension control module to the vehicle speed sensor. What do I find here? 2 inches from the connector, there's an ugly splice made into the GY/BK wire. The splice wire lives in that floppy, black protective sleeve and comes off the GY/BK wire toward the radio. I tugged that splice wire gently and something rattled behind the dash close to the driver's footwell panel. Definitely not factory.

    The wiring diagram says there should be no splice into the GY/BK wire #679 this close to the suspension control module.

    "WE NEED TO GO DEEPER. DEEPER UNDER THE DASH!"
    '00 Mercury Grand Marquis LS, Silver Frost, the "Sharona": runs, drives and currently with mods in progress
    '96 Chrysler Grand Voyager LE 3.3 V6
    "You obviously have not been introduced to the ASTM Guidance for Profanity Gauging of Technical Services, Addendum#1, American English to Polish Scale Conversion, by which a repair done at a rate of 35 kurwas per 5 minutes means normal performance."

  3. #23
    Beater gonna beat sly's Avatar
    Join Date
    Mar 2010
    Location
    Lewisville, TX
    Posts
    21,616

    Default

    Looks like you're in for a lot of detective work.

    Only two things are infinite, the universe and human stupidity, and I'm not sure about the former. -- Albert Einstein
    rides: 93 Crown Vic LX (The Red Velvet Cake), 2000 Crown Vic base model (Sandy), 2003 Expedition (the vacation beast)
    Quote Originally Posted by gadget73
    ... and it should all work like magic and unicorns and stuff.
    Quote Originally Posted by dmccaig
    Overhead, some poor bastards are flying in airplanes.

  4. #24
    Member
    Join Date
    Dec 2018
    Location
    Poznan, Poland
    Posts
    53

    Default

    Yup, but I'm in luck: got the whole FSM diagnostic procedure on hand. I don't have the Super Star II scanner for the air suspension, but from what I garner from there and the wiring diagrams, the 'non-functional' tests (the ground work with a multimeter and a test light, opposed to the 'functional' tests triggered in the control module by SSII) are basically the troubleshooting steps taken when a SS II test fails or there is a DTC returned by the tester / air suspension control module. They should tell me exactly what is wrong, and along which circuit / wire to look.
    '00 Mercury Grand Marquis LS, Silver Frost, the "Sharona": runs, drives and currently with mods in progress
    '96 Chrysler Grand Voyager LE 3.3 V6
    "You obviously have not been introduced to the ASTM Guidance for Profanity Gauging of Technical Services, Addendum#1, American English to Polish Scale Conversion, by which a repair done at a rate of 35 kurwas per 5 minutes means normal performance."

  5. #25
    Fastest Box In South Jersey 86VickyLX's Avatar
    Join Date
    Jan 2007
    Location
    Westmont, New Jersey
    Posts
    10,375

    Default

    I will say that the vss input is used for the variable steering assist. It goes to the radio for speed sensitive volume. It also comes through the drivers side firewall from the ecm harness and also for the cruise control servo assembly under the hood.

  6. #26
    Member
    Join Date
    Dec 2018
    Location
    Poznan, Poland
    Posts
    53

    Default

    I dug into the dash.

    The mystery splice off connector C2131b, grey/black wire (circuit 679) followed across the dash and down pillar A. It joined a harness that was not in the cable ducting along the door jambs... I traced the whole wire back to the trunk, where it was spliced into a defunct connector, a leftover from a cellphone hands-free set (I also found an antenna cable left from the hands-free set).

    The good thing is that I found no more funky splices. The suspicion is that there still might be a broken or short line in the RAS wiring; the worst case scenario is a dead air suspension control module.

    Will continue FSM diagnostic tests today.
    '00 Mercury Grand Marquis LS, Silver Frost, the "Sharona": runs, drives and currently with mods in progress
    '96 Chrysler Grand Voyager LE 3.3 V6
    "You obviously have not been introduced to the ASTM Guidance for Profanity Gauging of Technical Services, Addendum#1, American English to Polish Scale Conversion, by which a repair done at a rate of 35 kurwas per 5 minutes means normal performance."

  7. #27
    Member
    Join Date
    Dec 2018
    Location
    Poznan, Poland
    Posts
    53

    Default

    More updates:

    On with the RAS diagnostic procedure.
    I already pinpointed several problems:
    Circuit 57, suspension module harness pin 6 (wired to the steering position / angle sensor) has 80 ohms instead of < 5 ohms. LOL.
    Circuit 419, suspension module harness pin 11 (goes to the Check Air Suspension warning light on the digi dash) reads 6.5 volts instead of > 10 volts.
    Circuit 419, air suspension test connector pin 4 (spliced to suspension module harness pin 11), reads 0.1 millivolt instead of > 10 volts.
    (So there is a problem in circuit 419.)
    Circuit 432, air suspension test connector pin 2 (ground wire, spliced to the ground wire from the ride height sensor and spliced to the circuit 432 leg going to suspension module harness pin 8), reads 11 volts instead of 0 volts.

    Will have to look for splices and test some more.
    I'm also waiting for a replacement air suspension control module; since I got no SS II on hand, I'm hitting a wall without a replacement module to confirm the results.
    '00 Mercury Grand Marquis LS, Silver Frost, the "Sharona": runs, drives and currently with mods in progress
    '96 Chrysler Grand Voyager LE 3.3 V6
    "You obviously have not been introduced to the ASTM Guidance for Profanity Gauging of Technical Services, Addendum#1, American English to Polish Scale Conversion, by which a repair done at a rate of 35 kurwas per 5 minutes means normal performance."

  8. #28
    Member
    Join Date
    Dec 2018
    Location
    Poznan, Poland
    Posts
    53

    Default

    UPDATE:

    Getting there, but slowly (no time on my hands until next week, gah!).
    I'm gonna run FSM diagnostics on the EVO/steering angle sensor connections, since circuit 57 is affected. Gonna keep you posted.
    '00 Mercury Grand Marquis LS, Silver Frost, the "Sharona": runs, drives and currently with mods in progress
    '96 Chrysler Grand Voyager LE 3.3 V6
    "You obviously have not been introduced to the ASTM Guidance for Profanity Gauging of Technical Services, Addendum#1, American English to Polish Scale Conversion, by which a repair done at a rate of 35 kurwas per 5 minutes means normal performance."

  9. #29
    Member
    Join Date
    Dec 2018
    Location
    Poznan, Poland
    Posts
    53

    Default

    OK, UPDATE:
    Finally got some free time to continue the diagnostics:

    Hooked up a new compressor and a known working RAS control module. Nada, got the CAS warning light again. This is definitely a wiring or steering angle sensor issue. Need to check out the VSS (vehicle speed sensor) connection and performance, too; although I know the EVO (VAPS) works, the steering gets stiffer at highway speeds. Gonna test out the VSS, the steering angle sensor and the defective wiring circuit today and tomorrow.
    Making longer strides here, finally.
    '00 Mercury Grand Marquis LS, Silver Frost, the "Sharona": runs, drives and currently with mods in progress
    '96 Chrysler Grand Voyager LE 3.3 V6
    "You obviously have not been introduced to the ASTM Guidance for Profanity Gauging of Technical Services, Addendum#1, American English to Polish Scale Conversion, by which a repair done at a rate of 35 kurwas per 5 minutes means normal performance."

  10. #30
    Member
    Join Date
    Dec 2018
    Location
    Poznan, Poland
    Posts
    53

    Default

    UPDATE, DAY 2:
    With the new compressor and a known working RAS module, I installed both (brand new) air spring solenoid valves.
    Now I lost voltage at air suspension control module harness-side pins 1 and 15, which should be hot all times; pin 16 on the same harness is hot with the ignition key on (as it should).
    The BJB (battery J-box) fuse # 8 (30 amps) feeds pins 1 and 15 and should be hot all times, +12 V. It is not. The suspension relay is OK (tested), its wiring side has proper voltage on the correct pins.

    I'm starting to lose my mind here.
    '00 Mercury Grand Marquis LS, Silver Frost, the "Sharona": runs, drives and currently with mods in progress
    '96 Chrysler Grand Voyager LE 3.3 V6
    "You obviously have not been introduced to the ASTM Guidance for Profanity Gauging of Technical Services, Addendum#1, American English to Polish Scale Conversion, by which a repair done at a rate of 35 kurwas per 5 minutes means normal performance."

  11. #31
    Member
    Join Date
    Dec 2018
    Location
    Poznan, Poland
    Posts
    53

    Default

    MOAR NEWS: The plot thickens.
    The fun part is that when I hook up the control module AND turn on the ignition, I get 12 V on both RAS-related fuses (CJB #5 and BJB #8)... and with one of the 2 connectors of the control module unhooked (with pins 1, 15 and 16), pin 16 reads 12 V (OK), and pins 1 and 15 read 7 V, instead 10+ V. Note that CJB fuse 5 and BJB fuse 8 should be all times hot.
    '00 Mercury Grand Marquis LS, Silver Frost, the "Sharona": runs, drives and currently with mods in progress
    '96 Chrysler Grand Voyager LE 3.3 V6
    "You obviously have not been introduced to the ASTM Guidance for Profanity Gauging of Technical Services, Addendum#1, American English to Polish Scale Conversion, by which a repair done at a rate of 35 kurwas per 5 minutes means normal performance."

  12. #32
    I'm an air-conditioned gypsy gadget73's Avatar
    Join Date
    Jan 2005
    Posts
    39,275

    Default

    Sorry I'm just of no help here but I'm enjoying watching the process.

    86 Lincoln Town Car (Galactica).
    5.0 HO, CompCams XE258,Scorpion 1.72 roller rockers, 3.55 K code rear, tow package, BHPerformance ported E7 heads, Tmoss Explorer intake, 65mm throttle body, Hedman 1 5/8" headers, 2.5" dual exhaust, ASP underdrive pulley

    91 Lincoln Mark VII LSC SE, triple black (Timewarp) - poly front bushings, KYB struts and shocks, Holley SystemMax1 lower intake, SilverFox AOD valve body,

    1984 Lincoln Continental TurboDiesel - rolls coal

    Quote Originally Posted by phayzer5 View Post
    I drive a Lincoln. I can't be bothered to shift like the peasants and rabble rousers

  13. #33
    Member
    Join Date
    Dec 2018
    Location
    Poznan, Poland
    Posts
    53

    Default

    Sure, grab a seat, brewskis, and popcorn!
    '00 Mercury Grand Marquis LS, Silver Frost, the "Sharona": runs, drives and currently with mods in progress
    '96 Chrysler Grand Voyager LE 3.3 V6
    "You obviously have not been introduced to the ASTM Guidance for Profanity Gauging of Technical Services, Addendum#1, American English to Polish Scale Conversion, by which a repair done at a rate of 35 kurwas per 5 minutes means normal performance."

  14. #34
    Member
    Join Date
    Dec 2018
    Location
    Poznan, Poland
    Posts
    53

    Default

    UPDATE: Okay, the day has been somewhat successful.
    I dug through the wiring diagrams and found the splices and power distribution connectors between which the things going on now in the wiring should not happen. Can't stretch the day to 30 h, tho, so I'll certainly come back to it in a day or two, or the next weekend in the worst case.

    By design, the RAS control module takes 12 V power for pins 1, 15, and 16 from two sources:
    (1) Pins 1 and 15 are fed in this sequence: the source is the BJB (battery J-box), circuit 1053 (LB/PK). At splice S114, circuit 1053 branches out to several engine bay components (including the air compressor and its vent valve) and goes to C214, a HUGE multi-pin distribution connector that lives in RH footwell, on the bottom of pillar A, right hand side. Then the single wire of circuit 1053 goes to splice S411 beneath and above the glove box, where it splits to two lines down to pin 1 and 15 at the RAS control module connector.
    This means there's something funky between C214 and S411, or upstream of that, between the BJB and C214; pins 1 and 15 go live with the ignition switched on and read 7-7.5 V.

    (2) Pin 16 takes power from the CJB (central J-box) in the left footwell; it's circuit 298 that goes to splice S226, follows to C212 (another multi-pin power distribution connector) and comes down directly to the RAS control module. It is switched power by design. It reads 11.5 V at the RAS control module connector, which is normal.
    '00 Mercury Grand Marquis LS, Silver Frost, the "Sharona": runs, drives and currently with mods in progress
    '96 Chrysler Grand Voyager LE 3.3 V6
    "You obviously have not been introduced to the ASTM Guidance for Profanity Gauging of Technical Services, Addendum#1, American English to Polish Scale Conversion, by which a repair done at a rate of 35 kurwas per 5 minutes means normal performance."

  15. #35
    Member
    Join Date
    Dec 2018
    Location
    Poznan, Poland
    Posts
    53

    Default

    THE SAGA CONTINUES, AND THE SITH STRIKE BACK.

    Meaning - we're not there yet.
    Still have so little time to do this, but I keep at it.
    Here's what I've done so far:
    1. Decided to unhook all related connectors - from the RAS control module, the solenoid valves, the height sensor, the RAS power switch in the trunk. The height sensor and solenoid valve connectors had some grease-like gunk on the pins, so I sprayed the life outta those suckers with contact cleaner, and reconnected everything. I also contact-cleaned the steering wheel sensor pins, for the hell of it.
    2. Hooked up the new air compressor, the new solenoid valves for the air springs, a known (working) height sensor.
    3. Decided to repeat every RAS diagnostic test in the FSM from scratch. Who knows, might have cocked up something the last time (and I actually did with one measurement, left the voltmeter in auto and misread 1 MILIVOLT for 1 VOLT. I feel so st00pid now).

    Here's what I got:
    1. Pins 1 and 15 which should be all times hot are 7 V with the ignition off... and 9 V with the ignition on. FSM says 10+ V all times hot. Something's still off.
    2. The steering angle sensor related pin 6 of the RAS control module is OK, the ohms check out fine.
    3. Pretty much other pins and wires I've tested so far check out fine (the 11 V I found on the test connector in the trunk were... 11 mVolts. I set the voltmeter wrong. LMAO!!!).
    4. NOW THE BIG THING: Shoulda started from it --
    The 12 V input of the air suspension power switch in the trunk has no voltage. It should get all-times-hot voltage from output pin 2 of the RAS control module (most likely from the all-times-hot input pins 1 and 15 which get volts from the BJB, processed by the module and output to pin 2, component side).
    Since it's circuit 418 which goes along a single wire without any splices or connector up to the trunk switch, I ohmed it out by hooking up the meter between pin 2, harness side, and 12 V input, harness side, of the air suspension switch in the trunk. The circuit reads 0.5 ohms, which means continuity.
    It might mean the following:
    (1) The RAS control module is defective. Or both are, since I god a used, known to work replacement. It can't be so, because the module governs EVO (VAPS), variable steering, and variable steering works.
    (2) The wiring between RAS control module output pin 2 and the 12 V side of the RAS trunk switch is short to ground measured from the switch side and the pin 2 side, for I read 0.5 ohms on both ends of that circuit. Will have to test it per the FSM tomorrow.
    '00 Mercury Grand Marquis LS, Silver Frost, the "Sharona": runs, drives and currently with mods in progress
    '96 Chrysler Grand Voyager LE 3.3 V6
    "You obviously have not been introduced to the ASTM Guidance for Profanity Gauging of Technical Services, Addendum#1, American English to Polish Scale Conversion, by which a repair done at a rate of 35 kurwas per 5 minutes means normal performance."

  16. #36
    Member
    Join Date
    Dec 2018
    Location
    Poznan, Poland
    Posts
    53

    Default

    Went further with testing, and the Wiring Botch-o-Meter is close to the red line!

    I'll repeat some things to make the findings clear:

    1. The RAS takes all times hot battery power for the control module, the air spring solenoids, the compressor vent solenoid and the compressor motor over a LT BLU/PINK wire, circuit 1053 via: BJB 30 A fuse and down to splice S114, where it splits into three LT BLU/PINK wires for (2) the compressor relay driver and power feeds, (2) the compressor vent solenoid, and (3) towards the RAS control module. The third wire in circuit 1053 upstream of the RAS control module branches out at splice S411 towards (1) both air spring solenoids (this splices for each of the solenoids downstream of the RAS connector behind the rear seat) and (2) two wires for the power input pins 1 and 15 (all times hot) at the RAS control module.

    2. The RAS control module input pins 1 and 15 power the module and the voltage is processed and output from the module over pin 22, circuit 429, on a 12V wire (VIO/LT GRN) to splice S431 where it branches out to the RAS power switch in the trunk and the power input of the RAS height sensor. The RAS power switch (with the contacts made) passes 12 V power back to the RAS control module with a single, continuous wire (no splices or connectors along the way) to the RAS control module input pin 2.

    I attached the RAS wiring diagram to make things easier:
    Click image for larger version. 

Name:	44VbGeO.jpg 
Views:	8 
Size:	100.1 KB 
ID:	54446

    The friendly digital multimeter shows this:
    1. The 30 A fuse of circuit 1053 in the BJB reads nice 12 V all times hot and 13 V something with the engine running.
    2. Pins 1 and 15 on the RAS control module harness side read only... 1.5 V (unlike 7 V the last time!) without the engine running and 8.5 V with the engine running.
    3. Pin 22, RAS control module side, reads 1.5 mV only when the engine is running. I guess the volts on pin 1 and 15 are too low to drive pin 22 which is a voltage output (FSM says that 10 V or more are normal on pin 1 and 15).
    4. Since the 12 V output from the module on pin 22 has almost no voltage, the RAS switch (powered from pin 22) reads 0 V and the 12 V input for the RAS height sensor downstream of splice 431 also reads 0 V. The RAS switch side wire which runs back to pin 2 (the 12 V input from the RAS switch, grounded when needed by module) also reads 0 V at the RAS switch.
    5. Circuit 1053, LT BLU/PINK wire reads 0 V at the RAS harness connector behind the back seat, so the air spring solenoids get no power; there is a fault near splice S411.
    6. SURPRISE MUTHAFUCKA! Pin 2 on the RAS control module harness side, which should read 0 V because its wire from the RAS switch is 0 V, reads... 8.5 V when the engine is running.
    7. The power wiring in circuit 1053 downstream of splice S114 (the first one downstream of BJB fuse 30 A) has normal 12 V for the RAS relay, the compressor and its vent solenoid.

    What does it all mean? Well, the RAS CM harness-side pin 2 wire goes back from the RAS switch along harness 14A005 which happens to feature circuit 1053 LT BLU/PINK 12 V power wire and splice 411. This means the pin 2 wire is short to the 12 V power LT BLU/PINK wire (circuit 1053) around splice S411, and the LT BLU/PINK wire (circuit 1053) downstream of S411 gives no all-times-hot power to the air spring solenoid valves. S411 lives within a section of harness 14A005 right at the RAS control module.

    I think I'm right these two are short to each other because (lemme repeat myself) pin 2 in the RAS control module harness has the same voltage as pins 1 and 15 powered over circuit 1053 from the BJB (the too low 8.5 V).
    '00 Mercury Grand Marquis LS, Silver Frost, the "Sharona": runs, drives and currently with mods in progress
    '96 Chrysler Grand Voyager LE 3.3 V6
    "You obviously have not been introduced to the ASTM Guidance for Profanity Gauging of Technical Services, Addendum#1, American English to Polish Scale Conversion, by which a repair done at a rate of 35 kurwas per 5 minutes means normal performance."

  17. #37
    I'm an air-conditioned gypsy gadget73's Avatar
    Join Date
    Jan 2005
    Posts
    39,275

    Default

    Unplug the relay that pin 2 drives and see if the voltage goes away. You may just be reading the voltage through the coil. It appears that the splice that feeds 2 and 15 also runs that coil, and the control module grounds on pin 2 to turn the relay on.

    Wonder why the voltage is ~8.5 instead of battery voltage. Does it read normally at the fuse under the hood? Something must be high resistance someplace and causing that. I'd guess the splice, but thats just a guess.
    Last edited by gadget73; 07-04-2020 at 06:56 AM.

    86 Lincoln Town Car (Galactica).
    5.0 HO, CompCams XE258,Scorpion 1.72 roller rockers, 3.55 K code rear, tow package, BHPerformance ported E7 heads, Tmoss Explorer intake, 65mm throttle body, Hedman 1 5/8" headers, 2.5" dual exhaust, ASP underdrive pulley

    91 Lincoln Mark VII LSC SE, triple black (Timewarp) - poly front bushings, KYB struts and shocks, Holley SystemMax1 lower intake, SilverFox AOD valve body,

    1984 Lincoln Continental TurboDiesel - rolls coal

    Quote Originally Posted by phayzer5 View Post
    I drive a Lincoln. I can't be bothered to shift like the peasants and rabble rousers

  18. #38
    Member
    Join Date
    Dec 2018
    Location
    Poznan, Poland
    Posts
    53

    Default

    The RAS fuse in the BJB reads normal battery voltage, +1 V more if the motor is running and the alt is charging.

    Uhhh... Pin 2 in the diagram (and the FSM wiring diagram) should receive 12 V from pin 22 of the control module, via the RAS trunk switch (it's labelled "Pressure reservoir contol switch" in this diagram, FSM labels it just as the "AIr suspension switch"), and that's it. Look closely (the light green line that goes to the switch which makes connection with the pin 22 violet line), it does not splice into the LT BLU/PNK wiring from splice S114; S114 powers the RAS relay which is grounded from relay pin 85 to the RAS control module pin 23. (Or my eyes do something funky with my brain, or the other way around!)

    That's why I think there's something funky around splice S411. I forgot that upstream of splice S411 there is one large multipin connector for power distribution, C214, it lives at the bottom of the right-hand pillar A, under the kick panel below the glove box.

    It's a good idea, tho - I'll try to unplug the RAS fuse in the BJB and look for voltage at pin 2, harness side of the RAS control module, and the relay too, just for the hell of it.
    Last edited by SpitShine_PL; 07-04-2020 at 10:36 AM.
    '00 Mercury Grand Marquis LS, Silver Frost, the "Sharona": runs, drives and currently with mods in progress
    '96 Chrysler Grand Voyager LE 3.3 V6
    "You obviously have not been introduced to the ASTM Guidance for Profanity Gauging of Technical Services, Addendum#1, American English to Polish Scale Conversion, by which a repair done at a rate of 35 kurwas per 5 minutes means normal performance."

  19. #39
    I'm an air-conditioned gypsy gadget73's Avatar
    Join Date
    Jan 2005
    Posts
    39,275

    Default

    d'oh, thats what I get for not looking closely. I saw the switch and the speed sensor drawn above it and somehow put that together as "relay" in my head.

    OK, so if pin 2 comes through the switch from 22, its quite likely that inside the module it connects from 1 to 22 so that would explain why the voltage matches. If you unplug the module there should be no connection so that would prove it out.

    86 Lincoln Town Car (Galactica).
    5.0 HO, CompCams XE258,Scorpion 1.72 roller rockers, 3.55 K code rear, tow package, BHPerformance ported E7 heads, Tmoss Explorer intake, 65mm throttle body, Hedman 1 5/8" headers, 2.5" dual exhaust, ASP underdrive pulley

    91 Lincoln Mark VII LSC SE, triple black (Timewarp) - poly front bushings, KYB struts and shocks, Holley SystemMax1 lower intake, SilverFox AOD valve body,

    1984 Lincoln Continental TurboDiesel - rolls coal

    Quote Originally Posted by phayzer5 View Post
    I drive a Lincoln. I can't be bothered to shift like the peasants and rabble rousers

  20. #40
    Member
    Join Date
    Dec 2018
    Location
    Poznan, Poland
    Posts
    53

    Default

    Yeah, but I tested the volts also with piercing probes. 1 and 15 have 8.5 V when the motor is running. With all connectors hooked up to the RAS control module, pin 22 has 1.5 mV most likely that anything less than 10 V on pin 1 and 15 is not processed by the module (FSM says less than 10 V on the inputs is wrong). At the same time, pin 2 reads 8.5 V, the same as pin 1 and 15 while pin 22 is 1.5 mV.
    It's funny I can't remember if pin 2 has 8.5 with the RAS module connectors unhooked and the motor running; gonna repeat the measurements.

Page 2 of 2 FirstFirst 12

Posting Permissions

  • You may not post new threads
  • You may not post replies
  • You may not post attachments
  • You may not edit your posts
  •  
GMN Approved Links!


www.rockauto.com www.adtr.net