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Do these headers look like they will clear GT40p Heads plug angle?

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    Do these headers look like they will clear GT40p Heads plug angle?

    Hey everyone. I know this is a long shot… but can anyone tell by the pics I provided if these headers will clear the spark plug angle of GT40p heads? It would be ideal to just get some GT40p heads & mock the headers up to see for my self… but I don’t want to buy heads if I cant use them lol.

    I attached some pics below... photobucket is acting up so I used on-site attachments.

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    I’m planning on going with an explorer motor but it’s rare to find 1996 & early 97 5.0 motors w/ the GT40 3 bar heads in wrecking yards… most are the GT40p heads from 97-01.

    As a side note, if anyone has a nice set of gt40 3 bar heads I’ll buy them! ( :

    Any help is appreciated, Kyle.
    Attached Files
    1987 slick top Wagon

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    #2
    Looks like it should... you can always notch the flange if needed, but those look like they have the proper taper.

    Only two things are infinite, the universe and human stupidity, and I'm not sure about the former. -- Albert Einstein
    rides: 93 Crown Vic LX (The Red Velvet Cake), 2000 Crown Vic base model (Sandy), 2003 Expedition (the vacation beast)
    Originally posted by gadget73
    ... and it should all work like magic and unicorns and stuff.
    Originally posted by dmccaig
    Overhead, some poor bastards are flying in airplanes.

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      #3
      Here are some pics i took of my p-headers. The drivers side is the only one that makes them "p" headers. the passenger is the same as the regular FRPP shortie.

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        #4
        Holy crap those pics are perfect! Thanks mang that helps me out a ton... I'll go measure my headers here in a bit and compare them to yours... I'll report back.
        1987 slick top Wagon

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          #5
          I took similar pics like Jeff's with measuring tape in the same spot. Looks like I have about 1/2" more space on the passenger side... But the drivers side I have 1" less from the primary tube... Not sure if it will fit without 90 degree plug boots based off of various other forum posts. Last pic is from ebay showing the plug room with gt40p ford racing headers like what you have Jeff.

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          Still not sure if I should just try and run gt40p's or wait for some 3 bar gt40's.
          1987 slick top Wagon

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            #6
            Here's a comparison pic of my headers vs Jeff's ford racing gt40p's:

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            They may work based off this thread on foureyedpride:

            http://vb.foureyedpride.com/showthre...ader-conundrum

            Anyone run the bbk short tubes with gt40p's? Seems like my headers are very similar to them. My main concern is my ford racing 9MM plug wires... they have large 90 degree boots and I'm thinking they may touch the headers. I might have to splice on some smaller 90 degree boots kinda like what they use on the distributor side. I'm kinda bouncing idea's out there... Let me know if I'm over thinking this lol.
            1987 slick top Wagon

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            Comment


              #7
              Just going off the pictures, clearance looks like its going to be tight with your headers, IMO.

              I've read on other forums that regular BBK 1515 short tube headers will work with P-heads if 90 degree boots are used.

              I'd run a 90 degree boot wrapped in some reflective tape and call it done.

              You could also use some of those boot insulators for solidarity.

              The header dilemma is what has driven me away from P-heads, although they do perform well.
              1985 2-Door: CFI, K&N Filter, Edelbrock Performer 289 Intake, E7 Heads, BBK Shorty Headers, Summit H-pipe, Hooker Max Flow Mufflers, E-Fan, 3G Alternator, ASP Underdrive Crank Pulley, Bilstein Rear Shocks, Rear Lowering Springs, KYB Front Shocks, Front Lowering Springs, FTI 2400 Stall Converter, PA Performance Valve Body, Ford Racing 4.10 Gear, Eaton LSD Differential - I own the fastest CFI powered box to the 1/8th mile: 9.658@70.74mph
              1991 4-Door (Dad's Car): Pro-M EFI, 306ci, Forged Pistons, Ford Racing Aluminum Heads, COMP XE264HR cam, Cobra 1.7 Rockers, Edelbrock Performer RPM 2 Intake, 30lb. Injectors, Custom 65mm TB/EGR Spacer, Pro-M 75mm MAF, BBK Ceramic Shorties, Custom Summit H-pipe, Walker Mufflers, Jegs Built AOD, Roadrunner 3000 Stall Converter, Ford Racing 4.10 Gear - Best 1/8th mile time: 9.76@72.03

              Comment


                #8
                Yeah I think your right slug, I'll probably just hold out for some gt40's or just save up for aftermarket heads. I've been reading some horror story's of people having to remove the drivers side header just to change plugs! Meh, maybe it's just hyped up about how bad the fitment is... I just dont want to chance it.
                1987 slick top Wagon

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                  #9
                  really sucks those FRPP headers went out of production. They were decent quality, fit well, and were not stupid expensive.
                  86 Lincoln Town Car (Galactica).
                  5.0 HO, CompCams XE258,Scorpion 1.72 roller rockers, 3.55 K code rear, tow package, BHPerformance ported E7 heads, Tmoss Explorer intake, 65mm throttle body, Hedman 1 5/8" headers, 2.5" dual exhaust, ASP underdrive pulley

                  91 Lincoln Mark VII LSC grandpa spec white and cranberry

                  1984 Lincoln Continental TurboDiesel - rolls coal

                  Originally posted by phayzer5
                  I drive a Lincoln. I can't be bothered to shift like the peasants and rabble rousers

                  Comment


                    #10
                    Agreed gadget... those headers are like $300-$500 used now. Not worth it just to run p heads imo. Sucks but what can you do.
                    1987 slick top Wagon

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                      #11
                      Originally posted by Alice87 View Post
                      Yeah I think your right slug, I'll probably just hold out for some gt40's or just save up for aftermarket heads. I've been reading some horror story's of people having to remove the drivers side header just to change plugs! Meh, maybe it's just hyped up about how bad the fitment is... I just dont want to chance it.
                      With the right headers, you don't have to remove anything. I have a set of P heads and headers in the garage, no longer in use.
                      1989 Country Squire - Twilight Blue, 347 stroker


                      2005 Crown Victoria Sport - Black - Stainless Works full exhaust with Borla Pro XS mufflers, BBK 75mm TB, Accufab plenum, CVPI airbox, Heinous control arms, etc...

                      Comment


                        #12
                        Stock shorty headers will clear. You just have to use 90 degree spark plug boots and heat insulators around the plug boot and wire at the head on cylinders 5, 6 and 7.

                        Comment


                          #13
                          I appreciate all the responses on this topic. Vicky summed it up in post 12... Small 90 degree boots with insulators is the only way to get regular shorty's to work with gt40p's.

                          Luckily I wont have to deal with that... Today I ended up getting a complete 96' explorer for the price of a set of re-manufactured gt40 3 bar heads lol. It doesn't have a title which is why I drove it home for only $800!

                          I confirmed it has the 3 bar GT40 headed motor; It runs great and will do well in my wagon (my old man looks on approvingly in the pic lol):

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                          Drove it about 120 miles home. This engines got great pull even with the craptastic factory exhaust... Looking forward to getting it dropped into my wagon. Done a few engines swaps before so It shouldn't be too hard of a swap. Only concerning thing is getting the MPFI to run right... Still trying to decide between Megasquirt Or just go with a MAF swap.
                          1987 slick top Wagon

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                            #14
                            Good find with the Explorer.

                            I'd go the Megasquirt route .

                            Your tuning options open up a whole lot.
                            1985 2-Door: CFI, K&N Filter, Edelbrock Performer 289 Intake, E7 Heads, BBK Shorty Headers, Summit H-pipe, Hooker Max Flow Mufflers, E-Fan, 3G Alternator, ASP Underdrive Crank Pulley, Bilstein Rear Shocks, Rear Lowering Springs, KYB Front Shocks, Front Lowering Springs, FTI 2400 Stall Converter, PA Performance Valve Body, Ford Racing 4.10 Gear, Eaton LSD Differential - I own the fastest CFI powered box to the 1/8th mile: 9.658@70.74mph
                            1991 4-Door (Dad's Car): Pro-M EFI, 306ci, Forged Pistons, Ford Racing Aluminum Heads, COMP XE264HR cam, Cobra 1.7 Rockers, Edelbrock Performer RPM 2 Intake, 30lb. Injectors, Custom 65mm TB/EGR Spacer, Pro-M 75mm MAF, BBK Ceramic Shorties, Custom Summit H-pipe, Walker Mufflers, Jegs Built AOD, Roadrunner 3000 Stall Converter, Ford Racing 4.10 Gear - Best 1/8th mile time: 9.76@72.03

                            Comment


                              #15
                              Your right Slug, MegaSquirt really is the better option... I need to do more research to make sure I can use it with my set up.
                              1987 slick top Wagon

                              Search "photobucket embed fix" to remove watermark from photos

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