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Thread: Advice sought on replacing center rear brake hose 1985 Town Car

  1. #1

    Default Advice sought on replacing center rear brake hose 1985 Town Car

    Hello,
    I recently had the back brakes go out on my 1985 Town Car.
    The hose going to the rear axle has failed. I want to replace it and the 2 hardlines going to the wheel cylinders.
    Whats the easiest way to go about doing this with a jack and jackstands?
    Thanks.

  2. #2
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    Yes, on my 90 that center hose had a seized torx bolt. Spray the living shit out of it with pb blaster and hope you donít have to grind the head off like I did.


    Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

  3. #3
    Wagon Addicted Tiggie's Avatar
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    Without a flaring tool, you’re best to estimate the length of the hard line and go buy some in a a close length. I think they usually sell it in 10” increments or so. Comes with the fittings installed. Bend it to make it close to the right shape as possible.

    It’s also a good time to buy a flaring tool, a tube bender, some line, and some fittings and replace them all if they look suspect. The line from the rear hose to the front of the car is almost always crusty if the car has seen any salt.

  4. #4
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    If you do the lines yourself buy the nickle line. Longer life and easier to bend. Make sure the flares look perfect or do them again. Also make sure you put the new fittings on the line before you flare it.

    Being proactive any lines which look rusted will save you time and trouble.

    You can splice with a female/female adapter and two regular fittings. pressure fitting are not legal. A splice is generally only worth it if the line you are splicing into is in excellent condition all the way to the master.
    Last edited by jaywish; 07-23-2020 at 03:28 AM.
    "X" car 89 Colony Park LS Mods>Engine delete, SS duals magnaflow hflow cats, 2010 Must GT mufflers, auto air shocks, Posi, Tran cooler, big front brakes, 03+ rear disks, Large 3g alt, Tripminder, GS grill, 86 seats, 16" HPP wheels, winter boots=96 Cartier wheels, 215-65/16 Goodyear ULTRA GW3 snows, pi rear sway, alum driveshaft.
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    Very important to break free all four bleeder screws before starting the rest of the work. This way you can buy replacement calipers or wheel cylinders or remove the broken screws before it is time to bleed the brakes. Freeing bleeder screws is part art part luck.
    "X" car 89 Colony Park LS Mods>Engine delete, SS duals magnaflow hflow cats, 2010 Must GT mufflers, auto air shocks, Posi, Tran cooler, big front brakes, 03+ rear disks, Large 3g alt, Tripminder, GS grill, 86 seats, 16" HPP wheels, winter boots=96 Cartier wheels, 215-65/16 Goodyear ULTRA GW3 snows, pi rear sway, alum driveshaft.
    03 Marauder DBP, HS, 6disk, Organizer, Silver Stars, M&Z rear control arms, Oil deflector.
    02 SL500 Silver Arrow
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  6. #6

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    Going to try and take care of this today. I did try to loosen the rear bleeders. They both came loose with no issues.
    The front calipers were replaced by the previous owner 2 years ago so I am not concerned with the bleeders being rusted on like the back ones.

  7. #7
    Fastest Box In South Jersey 86VickyLX's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by jaywish View Post
    Very important to break free all four bleeder screws before starting the rest of the work. This way you can buy replacement calipers or wheel cylinders or remove the broken screws before it is time to bleed the brakes. Freeing bleeder screws is part art part luck.
    Air chisel with hammer attachment with slight force on the bleeder normally breaks them free 85% of the time. Add a little heat to the mix an you're 95% gonna get those things to come loose!

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    You are saying hammer the cylinder/caliper body with a light wrench on the bleeder?
    "X" car 89 Colony Park LS Mods>Engine delete, SS duals magnaflow hflow cats, 2010 Must GT mufflers, auto air shocks, Posi, Tran cooler, big front brakes, 03+ rear disks, Large 3g alt, Tripminder, GS grill, 86 seats, 16" HPP wheels, winter boots=96 Cartier wheels, 215-65/16 Goodyear ULTRA GW3 snows, pi rear sway, alum driveshaft.
    03 Marauder DBP, HS, 6disk, Organizer, Silver Stars, M&Z rear control arms, Oil deflector.
    02 SL500 Silver Arrow
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    I remember using a tool to remove bleeders, kinda like this one

    https://surrauto.com/kits/bb007/

    Worked pretty good
    ..

  10. #10
    Member of the Orb Alliance packman's Avatar
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    I rebuilt my rear several years ago; I will post the link to my thread, which should have the parts and the part numbers I used. I had the rear out of the car when I did this though. My rear had a broken T-fitting bolt, so I had my Dad's friend weld a bolt to the nub and extract it. I will be revisiting this in the near future as the 3AN line I used in place of the rubber line is corroding; and the rear lines need replacing.

    http://www.grandmarq.net/vb/showthre...toria-LX/page5

  11. #11
    I'm an air-conditioned gypsy gadget73's Avatar
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    Best fix for stuck bleeders is a new wheel cylinder. If the bleeder is stuck the cylinder probably isn't worth a damn anyway. The most expensive wheel cylinder on Rockauto is less than $7. Most of them are under $4. For that price, its not worth the effort to screw with rusty bleeders.

    86 Lincoln Town Car (Galactica).
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    Quote Originally Posted by phayzer5 View Post
    I drive a Lincoln. I can't be bothered to shift like the peasants and rabble rousers

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    The Brown Blob 87gtVIC's Avatar
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    You get into the "can I remove the brake line" game next.....

    After that is all new brake lines and wheel cylinders.
    ~David~

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    Quote Originally Posted by DerekTheGreat View Post
    But, that's just coming from me, this site's biggest pessimist. Best of luck

  13. #13
    GMN Regular slack's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by jaywish View Post
    If you do the lines yourself buy the nickle line. Longer life and easier to bend.

    I second this x1000. Nickle Copper lines are the best. The bend stupid easy without kinking and flare really easy as well. I had to do a bunch of lines on my cars last year and went with this stuff to save the hassle. It's nice to be able to just bend it easy and flare once and be done instead of getting bad flares on the steel lines and having to keep cutting back until you're running low on slack. (I'm crap at flaring so YMMV )

  14. #14
    I'm an air-conditioned gypsy gadget73's Avatar
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    also have given up on steel lines. The nicopp lines are the way to go.

    part of making decent flares is a good tool. Shitty ones don't hold the line properly and it ends up slipping through the block enough to cause problems.

    86 Lincoln Town Car (Galactica).
    5.0 HO, CompCams XE258,Scorpion 1.72 roller rockers, 3.55 K code rear, tow package, BHPerformance ported E7 heads, Tmoss Explorer intake, 65mm throttle body, Hedman 1 5/8" headers, 2.5" dual exhaust, ASP underdrive pulley

    91 Lincoln Mark VII LSC SE, triple black (Timewarp) - poly front bushings, KYB struts and shocks, Holley SystemMax1 lower intake, SilverFox AOD valve body,

    1984 Lincoln Continental TurboDiesel - rolls coal

    Quote Originally Posted by phayzer5 View Post
    I drive a Lincoln. I can't be bothered to shift like the peasants and rabble rousers

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    Quote Originally Posted by gadget73 View Post
    Best fix for stuck bleeders is a new wheel cylinder. If the bleeder is stuck the cylinder probably isn't worth a damn anyway. The most expensive wheel cylinder on Rockauto is less than $7. Most of them are under $4. For that price, its not worth the effort to screw with rusty bleeders.
    I agree
    Cheap enough to not even bother with

    Which made me wonder-
    Do a lot of ppl do disc brake conversions on these cars like they do on the fox mustangs?
    Last edited by massacre; 08-04-2020 at 11:14 PM.
    ..

  16. #16
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    Yes.

    bigger in front. different rear disk options.
    "X" car 89 Colony Park LS Mods>Engine delete, SS duals magnaflow hflow cats, 2010 Must GT mufflers, auto air shocks, Posi, Tran cooler, big front brakes, 03+ rear disks, Large 3g alt, Tripminder, GS grill, 86 seats, 16" HPP wheels, winter boots=96 Cartier wheels, 215-65/16 Goodyear ULTRA GW3 snows, pi rear sway, alum driveshaft.
    03 Marauder DBP, HS, 6disk, Organizer, Silver Stars, M&Z rear control arms, Oil deflector.
    02 SL500 Silver Arrow
    08 TC Signature Limited, HID's Mods>235/55-17 Z rated Cooper Zeon RS3-A, Addco 1" rear Sway, Posi, Compustar Remote Start, floor liners, trunk organizer, Winter=05 Mustang GT rims, Nokian Hakkapeliitta R-2 235/55-17

  17. #17
    Member of the Orb Alliance packman's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by gadget73 View Post
    also have given up on steel lines. The nicopp lines are the way to go.

    part of making decent flares is a good tool. Shitty ones don't hold the line properly and it ends up slipping through the block enough to cause problems.
    Truth; I don't remember who it was on here that turned me on to the MasterTool hydraulic flaring tool. Probably the best purchase I've made; done brake and fuel lines with that tool with no hassle. Definitely worth the money.

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    I have a line straightener, eastwood turret flare tool, and their hand line bender. Can do a whole panther in no time. Was a good investment, since I've done about 10 whole vehicles for friends and fam.

  19. #19
    2 decades of DDing Box Panthers, now in a Whale VicCrownVic's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by packman View Post
    Truth; I don't remember who it was on here that turned me on to the MasterTool hydraulic flaring tool. Probably the best purchase I've made; done brake and fuel lines with that tool with no hassle. Definitely worth the money.
    A friend of mine has one (Mastercool). We flared some stainless steel line back in Nov/Dec timeframe and it was unbelievably quick and easy compared to wasting time with a cheap flare tool.
    Vic

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  20. #20
    I post a lot... mitymerc's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by packman View Post
    Truth; I don't remember who it was on here that turned me on to the MasterTool hydraulic flaring tool. Probably the best purchase I've made; done brake and fuel lines with that tool with no hassle. Definitely worth the money.
    I did a web search & found "MasterCool"brand, is that what you have?

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