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Progress on fixing up my 86 MGM

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    #16
    whack the floor back down with a hammer and a chunk of 2x4. If the metal isn't ripped it should bend back down close enough to where it belongs that the hump in the floor will go away. Not a big deal. If you want it more exactly right you'll probably have to pull the carpet and do more careful hammer and dolly work.
    86 Lincoln Town Car (Galactica).
    5.0 HO, CompCams XE258,Scorpion 1.72 roller rockers, 3.55 K code rear, tow package, BHPerformance ported E7 heads, Tmoss Explorer intake, 65mm throttle body, Hedman 1 5/8" headers, 2.5" dual exhaust, ASP underdrive pulley

    91 Lincoln Mark VII LSC grandpa spec white and cranberry

    1984 Lincoln Continental TurboDiesel - rolls coal

    Originally posted by phayzer5
    I drive a Lincoln. I can't be bothered to shift like the peasants and rabble rousers

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      #17
      Gearbox? Steering gearbox?

      As far as becoming a beater, that's what the one I just retired was; a winter beater at that. No negative judgment from me.

      The '98-'02 steel wheels with '98 Mountaineer center caps and snow tires went well with the rugged look of my old car. Although, if you decide to make the car nice, any '98-'02 CV/MGM/LTC wheels will bolt right on. That also gives you a 16" wheel which would allow for the big brake swap ('98-'02 front brakes) later down the road.
      Vic

      ~ 1989 MGM LS Colony Park - Large Marge
      ~ 1998 MGM LS - new DD
      ~ 1991 MGM LS "The Scab"
      ~ 1991 MGM GS "The Ice Car"

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        #18
        Thanks for the suggestion Vic I will look into that, when you mean steelies I thought you meant the old ones from the common 70s and junk. Also guys thanks for informing me about the floor pan fix, I will try pounding that hump out and see how it goes, i'm not giving up on this car yet, well not that I did but my plans almost changed I thought she was too damaged, also is there suppose to be a small hump by the driver seat where you step in? I think that's a hump too I was gonna try pounding out but wanted to make sure it's not something under the car that's suppose to be there. I suppose if I took a pic it could help but right now I'm just gonna focus on pounding the back seat hump first anyways.

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          #19
          Hey guys big update, I've finally been fixing up some issues on the car over the last few months. It needed a new front brake job, brake line replacement, the rotor, pads, and caliper. My uncle has been helping me with the brake junk but now I am confused. He initially got the wrong caliper cause he thought the car was an 84-85 and the caliper would not bolt tight to the assembly it kind of wiggled I guess is the best way to describe it. So we got the right caliper cause it bolts tight and has no play in it, but the car still is grinding when you try to move it, the wheel is locked up so the caliper doesn't fully release. The confusion now is the parts store thinks my uncle put the wrong rotor on it, cause he said if it's for an 87 but he got a rotor that was older it would not work cause the thickness isn't the same or whatever. I went to talk to the guy at the store and they only had the one rotor assembly that was stated it was good for 79-87 but this other guy said depending on if the car is the GS or LS it would make a difference on the rotor. At this point I can't get a hold of my uncle to check the part numbers cause he has the boxes, but would the rotor matter if he got the wrong year 84-85 when the car is an 87? Would it also matter if it's the GS or LS I think it's something with the caliper in how he installed it but I haven't had time to look at the car myself but I don't know what to do at this point. Cause obviously it can't even really be driven now cause the wheel is locked up.

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            #20
            same calipers and rotors on all trim levels 1979-1991. The only real difference is some have phenolic caliper pistons and some have steel. The caliper fits the spindle the same, but the hole in the middle is a different size and the brake pad clip is different to match. Phenolic center hole is much smaller than the steel. either the pad won't go into the caliper, or it will just fall out. Pretty obvious if you have mismatched parts there. It doesn't matter all that much which you use, just have the same on both sides otherwise doing a brake job means buying 2 sets of pads. It will work, its just stupid.



            Marquis vs Grand Marquis is different, but its completely different. 4 lug wheel vs 5, and none of the parts will go together.

            The calipers do need to float somewhat. The pins screw in to the spindle, but there is a shoulder under the head and a long pin end sticking out the back that the caliper actually sits on. The caliper has to move or it will not release. The pins need to be clean and slightly lubed with brake caliper grease, and the calipers need to have the guide pin bushings installed. They usually look like black rubber things pushed into the caliper body. If the brake hose is shot it might be holding pressure too. Crack the bleeder loose. If the rotor spins free after you burp it, the line is bad.

            related to the bleeder, there is a left and right caliper. The difference is where the bleeder is. It should be facing upward and sit above the hose connection. If its below the hose, you have the caliper on the wrong side.

            Some pics of what you have going on would help here.
            86 Lincoln Town Car (Galactica).
            5.0 HO, CompCams XE258,Scorpion 1.72 roller rockers, 3.55 K code rear, tow package, BHPerformance ported E7 heads, Tmoss Explorer intake, 65mm throttle body, Hedman 1 5/8" headers, 2.5" dual exhaust, ASP underdrive pulley

            91 Lincoln Mark VII LSC grandpa spec white and cranberry

            1984 Lincoln Continental TurboDiesel - rolls coal

            Originally posted by phayzer5
            I drive a Lincoln. I can't be bothered to shift like the peasants and rabble rousers

            Comment


              #21
              Ok thanks Gadget, I'll get a pic tomorrow when I take the wheel off I'm pretty sure it's the caliper that is the problem with how it was installed.

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                #22
                Hey guys bumping this because I noticed in the cold weather here when the engine is warmed fully, if the car is idling and you put it in gear the engine light is flickering more. I know the oil pressure is low but should I use a thicker oil for this cold or just ignore it.

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                  #23
                  I'd maybe try some 15W-40 or some 20W-50 and see what happens. If it's already that tired, probably ain't much gonna bring it back. Some folks around here drove around for a while with a flickering ENGINE light since a LoPo doesn't know when to quit.

                  If it was warmer, I'd be curious to see what a straight grade oil would do. Don't see too many people running around running SAE 30 on the regular.


                  My Cars:
                  -1964 Comet 202 (116K Miles) - Long Term Project
                  -1986 Dodge D-150 Royale SE (112K Miles) - Slowly Getting Put Back Together
                  -1987 Grand Marquis Colony Park LS (325K Miles) - April 2017 + September 2019 POTM Winner
                  -1997 Grand Marquis LS (240K Miles) - The Daily Workhorse & March 2015 + January 2019 POTM Winner

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                    #24
                    I had a 93 F150 like that. 289K miles when I sold it on to a contract laborer. Beat to hell, but still ran fine.

                    Only two things are infinite, the universe and human stupidity, and I'm not sure about the former. -- Albert Einstein
                    rides: 93 Crown Vic LX (The Red Velvet Cake), 2000 Crown Vic base model (Sandy), 2003 Expedition (the vacation beast)
                    Originally posted by gadget73
                    ... and it should all work like magic and unicorns and stuff.
                    Originally posted by dmccaig
                    Overhead, some poor bastards are flying in airplanes.

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                      #25
                      Dad ran straight 50 weight and motor honey in "my" '87 CV when I was a junior in high school. He sold that car to a friend of his that needed a car a couple years after I drove it when I was put into the '88 Country Squire. No idea what mileage was on the '87 CV.
                      I run 20w50 in The Scab which likely has 250k+ miles on it. It's a little chatty with lighter 10w40.

                      Dad said he ran that because of some sort of engine noise which went away with the thick oil.
                      The Scab is mainly run in nice weather so I'm not sure how it would like the thick oil in cold weather. Although it starts and runs fine when I start it up periodically throughout the winter.
                      Last edited by VicCrownVic; 02-14-2021, 12:06 AM.
                      Vic

                      ~ 1989 MGM LS Colony Park - Large Marge
                      ~ 1998 MGM LS - new DD
                      ~ 1991 MGM LS "The Scab"
                      ~ 1991 MGM GS "The Ice Car"

                      Comment


                        #26
                        Yeah I'm not really concerned if the motor was to go, I'm ready for anything with this old girl. Just thought if I was hurting the motor more with running it in this deep freeze weather but if it's not gonna really matter I'm cool with that lol.

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                          #27
                          There’s a cheap way to bandaid this. A high volume oil pump will make it happy for a while if it’s running quiet. As for putting it in... that’s no fun. You have to drop the oil pan which basically means the engine needs to be lifted up/ready to remove. If I went that far, I’d be tempted to just plop in more healthy engine.

                          Low oil pressure is hurting it and it will ultimately get some rod knock. Could be next week, or in three years. Try that 20w-50 and see if you can get by for a little longer.
                          1990 Country Squire - weekend cruiser, next project
                          1988 Crown Vic LTD Wagon - waiting in the wings

                          GMN Box Panther History
                          Box Panther Horsepower and Torque Ratings
                          Box Panther Production Numbers

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                            #28
                            Yeah right now it's not knocking even on cold start. I think this engine still has a few years left before it gets more catastrophic but it does leak oil at the oil pan so I keep an eye on that. You make a good point though Tiggie if the motor has to be lifted at that point I'd just swap a different motor in it at that point but even then I doubt this car will ever see that, it's not in the greatest shape body wise being a MN car all it's life I seen worse, but it wouldn't be practical to sink $2k+ into this car at this point. Drive it and pamper it is what I'm doing till she decides to start knocking on heaven's door

                            EDIT:

                            But yeah I will try the thicker oil to at least give it at least more comfort till whenever.
                            Last edited by TwiztidRat; 02-14-2021, 08:10 PM.

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                              #29
                              There is always STP. Or do they still make that ? Got to warm that stuff up in the can or you will never get it out when it is cold.

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                                #30
                                Yeah at this time I'll just keep running it as is. If the motor starts knocking or sounding like a diesel than maybe I'll try additives but for now just keeping an eye on the oil level cause I know this car leaks it, but thankfully it's a slow leak maybe a half quart low since topping it off in december.

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