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Transmission Noises and Leaks

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    #31
    Trans dipstick tube o-ring has been replaced. Despite how far up there that bolt is, it's not that difficult a job. I believe it's a 16mm bolt, but once it was broken loose it came out by hand the rest of the way. The trickiest part was just snaking the dipstick tube out and in through hoses and wires.

    The cooler lines are the quick connects. I've already replaced one that was leaking on the radiator. Wouldn't be the end of the world to do the ones going to the trans, but for now I'll just clean things up and monitor.

    My replacement dipstick o-ring was a specific match for that location and it fits snugly around the tube. For the output shaft and speedometer cable, though, I've just matched the diameter of the original o-rings as best I can. But both seem to be just slightly larger than stock. They fit within the metal grooves meant to hold them, but I can spin them around in place. Is it more important to match the previous o-ring's diameter in general, or to get the new o-ring snug enough that it is held by friction? I can see the outer surface of whatever the o-ring seals working to compress a slightly oversized ring into its groove, but I have no idea how well this nitrile stuff works in compression.
    1987 Lincoln Town Car - Signature, "Prudence"

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      #32
      I decided to go with the next size down for the o-rings. They're a bit more snug now, so I guess I'll find out soon if that was the right call.

      Extension housing is back on the trans, which is bolted back to the mount, etc. Driveshaft is back in as well. Before I came in for the night I dropped the oil pan to get a head start on the fluid change. I've noticed before that one of the pan bolts has RTV around it, which lead me to believe the fluid has been changed at least once and whoever did it stripped out that hole. But after I got the bolt out I looked in there and the threads looked pretty good. I believe the pan gasket has been a major source of leaking, though. Perhaps someone before me felt RTV was the quicker fix when the leak first cropped up.



      The fluid looks like it was in decent shape, though there's a decent amount of clutch stuff in the pan. I've got 3 1/2 gallons of Wal-Mart Dexron/Mercon fluid, plus an extra gallon of their 'high mileage' Dexron/Mercon. Don't know if whatever they add to it is worth putting in, or if I should just stick to the straight stuff.
      1987 Lincoln Town Car - Signature, "Prudence"

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        #33
        If you didn't find a plastic fishing bobber looking thing in the pan someone has already been in there.
        ~David~

        My 1987 Crown Victoria Coupe: The Brown Blob
        My 2004 Mercedes Benz E320:The Benz

        Originally posted by ootdega
        My life is a long series of "nevermind" and "I guess not."

        Originally posted by DerekTheGreat
        But, that's just coming from me, this site's biggest pessimist. Best of luck

        Originally posted by gadget73
        my car starts and it has AC. Yours doesn't start and it has no AC. Seems obvious to me.




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          #34
          make sure the filter is not over-torqued. Apparently it can warp the valve body enough to cause 3-4 shift issues. I changed the juice in my black Mark VII and OD engagement got funky. Possibly having the same issue on the white one too. Its some small number of inch pounds, if you have a torque wrench use it, otherwise barely snug is probably about right. I over-did it using just a nut driver with fluid on my hands.


          the pan also needs to be flat. If someone cranked it down and buckled around the bolt holes it will never seal. I've hammered a lot of valve covers out for the same problem. Not sure the pan torque offhand but its also not very much. They don't want sealer either. That looks like the right gasket, its sort of like a pressed cardboard looking material. The sealing surface on the trans side also needs to be perfectly clean and not damaged.

          standard fluid should be fine. The high mileage stuff usually has some extra sauce in it to swell and soften the seals.
          86 Lincoln Town Car (Galactica).
          5.0 HO, CompCams XE258,Scorpion 1.72 roller rockers, 3.55 K code rear, tow package, BHPerformance ported E7 heads, Tmoss Explorer intake, 65mm throttle body, Hedman 1 5/8" headers, 2.5" dual exhaust, ASP underdrive pulley

          91 Lincoln Mark VII LSC grandpa spec white and cranberry

          1984 Lincoln Continental TurboDiesel - rolls coal

          Originally posted by phayzer5
          I drive a Lincoln. I can't be bothered to shift like the peasants and rabble rousers

          Comment


            #35
            The service manual says 6-10 lb-ft on the pan, 16-20 lb-ft for the extension housing, and 80-120 lb-in for the filter. I somehow have two lb-in torque wrenches, one from Harbor Freight and the other is a little beam style wrench. I tried to follow the torque specs for all the trans bolts religiously and stayed on the low end for the filter.

            The pan is pretty beat up and the mating surface is definitely not flat. That's probably why it was leaking before. My replacement gasket, though, looks more like rubber than the cardboard stuff I took out. It might have enough give to seal. And if not then I guess I'll get to drop the pan again and probably replace it with a drain plug-featured one.

            I collected about 7 qts of fluid and added 8 back in - the standard, Wal-Mart stuff. Time will tell whether any leaks reappear.
            1987 Lincoln Town Car - Signature, "Prudence"

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              #36
              can probably just do some hammer and dolly work to flatten it back out. Need a hunk of metal that will fit reasonably up inside the pan rail as a backer and a smallish hammer. Don't need to brute force it, just tap it back flat.
              86 Lincoln Town Car (Galactica).
              5.0 HO, CompCams XE258,Scorpion 1.72 roller rockers, 3.55 K code rear, tow package, BHPerformance ported E7 heads, Tmoss Explorer intake, 65mm throttle body, Hedman 1 5/8" headers, 2.5" dual exhaust, ASP underdrive pulley

              91 Lincoln Mark VII LSC grandpa spec white and cranberry

              1984 Lincoln Continental TurboDiesel - rolls coal

              Originally posted by phayzer5
              I drive a Lincoln. I can't be bothered to shift like the peasants and rabble rousers

              Comment


                #37
                Originally posted by gadget73 View Post
                make sure the filter is not over-torqued. Apparently it can warp the valve body enough to cause 3-4 shift issues. s.
                what would these issues feel like? My sons been complaining of 3-4 shift after we did a filter and fluid swap.
                1987 CV LX 5.0

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                  #38
                  really sluggish 3-4 upshift or just no upshift. Depends how bad its sticking.
                  86 Lincoln Town Car (Galactica).
                  5.0 HO, CompCams XE258,Scorpion 1.72 roller rockers, 3.55 K code rear, tow package, BHPerformance ported E7 heads, Tmoss Explorer intake, 65mm throttle body, Hedman 1 5/8" headers, 2.5" dual exhaust, ASP underdrive pulley

                  91 Lincoln Mark VII LSC grandpa spec white and cranberry

                  1984 Lincoln Continental TurboDiesel - rolls coal

                  Originally posted by phayzer5
                  I drive a Lincoln. I can't be bothered to shift like the peasants and rabble rousers

                  Comment

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