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    Need proper EGR delte write up

    I know there has to be someone who has already gone through the trouble of deleting their EGR stuff, I'd rather know how before I go tearing into it.

    I understand fully that there are no power gains, I understand some people care about what it 'might' do for the environment, and that in some cases it can help with gas mileage.
    If I cared about gas mileage I'd continue to daily drive my Miata (that has all emissions an EGR deleted, done by a previous owner) and get 323 MPG.

    I apologize for the mini-rant, I just want to make it clear that I understand the pros/cons or lack of either from EGR/emissions deletes.

    Thank you to anyone for your help!

    #2
    Unplug. If you really want to remove the valve, you will need a block-off (EGR delete) plate. You can also make your own with some bar stock, drill/shape it, and use a new EGR gasket as well. Then as 87gtVIC said in the other thread...

    Originally posted by 87gtVIC View Post
    You really just unplug it all and cap off any open lines. It is that simple.
    Pretty much you can also remove the EVR (larger of the 3 solenoids) that controls the vacuum to the EGR valve as well.

    Only two things are infinite, the universe and human stupidity, and I'm not sure about the former. -- Albert Einstein
    rides: 93 Crown Vic LX (The Red Velvet Cake), 2000 Crown Vic base model (Sandy), 2003 Expedition (the vacation beast)
    Originally posted by gadget73
    ... and it should all work like magic and unicorns and stuff.
    Originally posted by dmccaig
    Overhead, some poor bastards are flying in airplanes.

    Comment


      #3
      Originally posted by sly View Post
      Unplug. If you really want to remove the valve, you will need a block-off (EGR delete) plate. You can also make your own with some bar stock, drill/shape it, and use a new EGR gasket as well. Then as 87gtVIC said in the other thread...



      Pretty much you can also remove the EVR (larger of the 3 solenoids) that controls the vacuum to the EGR valve as well.
      Is it really that simple? I didn't know how it would act with the ECU, didn't want to throw codes and make my car not run.

      Comment


        #4
        What year car?

        You will throw some codes but it wont bother anything if its a 5.0.
        ~David~

        My 1987 Crown Victoria Coupe: The Brown Blob
        My 2004 Mercedes Benz E320:The Benz

        Originally posted by ootdega
        My life is a long series of "nevermind" and "I guess not."

        Originally posted by DerekTheGreat
        But, that's just coming from me, this site's biggest pessimist. Best of luck

        Originally posted by gadget73
        my car starts and it has AC. Yours doesn't start and it has no AC. Seems obvious to me.




        Comment


          #5
          Even the codes it throws won't light the Check Engine light. You will just get about 1-2 MPG less on the highway due to no EGR.

          Only two things are infinite, the universe and human stupidity, and I'm not sure about the former. -- Albert Einstein
          rides: 93 Crown Vic LX (The Red Velvet Cake), 2000 Crown Vic base model (Sandy), 2003 Expedition (the vacation beast)
          Originally posted by gadget73
          ... and it should all work like magic and unicorns and stuff.
          Originally posted by dmccaig
          Overhead, some poor bastards are flying in airplanes.

          Comment


            #6
            Coming into this way late, but I found that unplugging the EGR pintle position sensor can cause issues...such as pinging. Normally the EGR valve only opens during steady, light throttle operation, above certain speeds(like 50+). At this point, the computer has commanded the EVR solenoid to open and looks at the EGR pintle position to (1)confirm function and (2)to determine amount of timing to add...if the pintle indicates any position other than closed, the computer will advance ignition timing(because exhaust gas is inert and increases detonation resistance slightly.

            You can disconnect the vacuum source and leave the EGR position sensor plugged in and it will always indicate a “closed” position, preventing unwanted ignition advance.
            '85 CV coupe- 351W, T5-Z, FAST Ez-Efi, shorty headers, 2.5" duals with knock off flowmasters, 2.5" Impala tails, seriously worked GT-40 irons, Comp 265DEH cam, 1.7rr's, Mallory HyFire 6A, Taylor ThunderVolt 50 10.4mm wires, 75mm t/b, 3G alt swap, 140mph PI speedo, PI rear sway bar, '00 PI booster/MC, 95-97 front spindles, '99 front hub bearings/brakes, '92-'94 front upper control arms/ball-joints, 3.73's with rebuilt traction-lok, '09 PI rear disc swap, '96 Mustang GT wheels with 235/55R17's.

            Comment


              #7
              Step 1
              leave the EGR alone
              step 2
              enjoy your slightly improved fuel economy and reduced NOx emissions

              The end.

              don't understand the point in doing work to gain no power, lose fuel economy, and do nothing useful for the environment. Doing absolutely fuck-all to not move backwards is the lazy man's win here.
              86 Lincoln Town Car (Galactica).
              5.0 HO, CompCams XE258,Scorpion 1.72 roller rockers, 3.55 K code rear, tow package, BHPerformance ported E7 heads, Tmoss Explorer intake, 65mm throttle body, Hedman 1 5/8" headers, 2.5" dual exhaust, ASP underdrive pulley

              91 Lincoln Mark VII LSC grandpa spec white and cranberry

              1984 Lincoln Continental TurboDiesel - rolls coal

              Originally posted by phayzer5
              I drive a Lincoln. I can't be bothered to shift like the peasants and rabble rousers

              Comment


                #8
                Originally posted by gadget73 View Post
                Step 1
                leave the EGR alone
                step 2
                enjoy your slightly improved fuel economy and reduced NOx emissions

                The end.

                don't understand the point in doing work to gain no power, lose fuel economy, and do nothing useful for the environment. Doing absolutely fuck-all to not move backwards is the lazy man's win here.
                Pretty much...unless you’re blocking off the passage in the lower intake to try to keep the upper plenum cool...even the results of that are questionable.
                '85 CV coupe- 351W, T5-Z, FAST Ez-Efi, shorty headers, 2.5" duals with knock off flowmasters, 2.5" Impala tails, seriously worked GT-40 irons, Comp 265DEH cam, 1.7rr's, Mallory HyFire 6A, Taylor ThunderVolt 50 10.4mm wires, 75mm t/b, 3G alt swap, 140mph PI speedo, PI rear sway bar, '00 PI booster/MC, 95-97 front spindles, '99 front hub bearings/brakes, '92-'94 front upper control arms/ball-joints, 3.73's with rebuilt traction-lok, '09 PI rear disc swap, '96 Mustang GT wheels with 235/55R17's.

                Comment


                  #9
                  I say delete it. See how you like it.
                  You can always put everything back on if you don’t like it.
                  ..

                  Comment


                    #10
                    I ran with mine blocked off for a little while because the valve was stuck partially open. The only difference I noticed was decreased fuel mileage. I would say leave it on there. For our cars it helps us more than hinders us.


                    Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

                    Comment


                      #11
                      I've had the EGR unplugged on my CFI setup pretty much always, the vacuum signal it's getting is all over the place...
                      I haven't had pinging and due to the pretty obvious malfunction, the car runs better without EGR.
                      Though my best mileage on a tank has been about 16-17 mpg... Regularly under and around 15 mpg, probably just the type of driving I've done.
                      1985 Mercury Grand Marquis LS, "Maisa"
                      1995 Chevrolet Caprice Classic STW, "Sally"

                      Comment


                        #12
                        You’re gonna get opinions on both sides.
                        The only way to tell is to just do it and see if it’s for you. If it’s not, switch it back.
                        I had mine shut off in the tune so it wasn’t an issue.
                        ..

                        Comment


                          #13
                          when its working right EGR is basically invisible. When something is wrong it runs horribly. My car had a hesitation for years that I finally chased to the EGR system, and a bad EGR vac regulator. Replaced the regulator and the problem went away.
                          86 Lincoln Town Car (Galactica).
                          5.0 HO, CompCams XE258,Scorpion 1.72 roller rockers, 3.55 K code rear, tow package, BHPerformance ported E7 heads, Tmoss Explorer intake, 65mm throttle body, Hedman 1 5/8" headers, 2.5" dual exhaust, ASP underdrive pulley

                          91 Lincoln Mark VII LSC grandpa spec white and cranberry

                          1984 Lincoln Continental TurboDiesel - rolls coal

                          Originally posted by phayzer5
                          I drive a Lincoln. I can't be bothered to shift like the peasants and rabble rousers

                          Comment


                            #14
                            it runs better with out it hooked up as in fully closed.
                            also if it is disconected you can eliminate the cooler lines to have cooler throttle body and cooler air into engine.
                            on cfi. streigtline the heater hose and plug manifold with threaded plug.

                            on other efi i think you can just bypass the throttle body

                            Comment


                              #15
                              Originally posted by atlantic3000 View Post
                              it runs better with out it hooked up as in fully closed.
                              also if it is disconected you can eliminate the cooler lines to have cooler throttle body and cooler air into engine.
                              on cfi. streigtline the heater hose and plug manifold with threaded plug.

                              on other efi i think you can just bypass the throttle body
                              #1- doesn’t run better without it, period. Worse fuel economy and higher emissions output falls under the “not better” category.

                              #2- coolant hoses to EGR spacer are not EGR “cooling lines” but instead are there for the purpose of heating the throttle body to prevent instances of throttle shaft icing in colder climates. They have ZERO effect on EGR functionality. These are very different animals from late-model efi diesel engines.
                              '85 CV coupe- 351W, T5-Z, FAST Ez-Efi, shorty headers, 2.5" duals with knock off flowmasters, 2.5" Impala tails, seriously worked GT-40 irons, Comp 265DEH cam, 1.7rr's, Mallory HyFire 6A, Taylor ThunderVolt 50 10.4mm wires, 75mm t/b, 3G alt swap, 140mph PI speedo, PI rear sway bar, '00 PI booster/MC, 95-97 front spindles, '99 front hub bearings/brakes, '92-'94 front upper control arms/ball-joints, 3.73's with rebuilt traction-lok, '09 PI rear disc swap, '96 Mustang GT wheels with 235/55R17's.

                              Comment

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