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    #16
    If time permits charge the battery fully. let it sit for 2 days, give a quick short to pull surface charge and check voltage. Can you charge it and take it to auto zone or wherever you got the battery to check it?
    03 Marauder DPB, HS, 6disk, Organizer Mods> LED's in & Out, M&Z rear control arms, Oil deflector, U-Haul Trans Pan, Blue Fuzzy Dice
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      #17
      Sly, it’s a plain Jane p71 no auto headlights but that’s a good theory. A thought though, dark mode is still on but I wonder if something in the lcm is activated when the doors open without the key in the ignition. Perhaps that would explain the drain I found and need to wait until it’s gone to “sleep” and pop the hood without the door open and then test so it thinks it’s been sitting without someone getting into the car for longer. Just a thought, maybe it’ll be lower I don’t know.

      Jay, great idea. I can get it to an Autozone in the next couple of days. I hate leaving a battery in my car though and I would have to do that due to how far I work and little time I have. I once bought a battery years ago and it sat in my car all day. I move it to the trunk and went to my ex’s house. Well I started to feel a little burning around my stomach so I went to the bathroom and was shocked to see holes in my shirt! I guess battery acid leaked out of out gassed and condensed onto the battery and got on my clothes when I moved it. I might have something to put it in though.


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        #18
        What voltage are you reading at the battery when it is running? If it was mostly dead, let it run a while, keep monitoring voltage at the battery. Next turn on the headlights, and the heater on full blast. Whats the voltage reading at the battery (car still running)?

        Shut off the car, if everything above is normal (13.5volts all the way to 14.9 volts is okay) disconnect the alternator, the plug AND the big battery wire--at the alternator, make sure the big wire can't touch anything, stick a bag over the end in case overnight squirrels come visiting and knock the cable about. Let car sit over night. Measure battery voltage in the morning. If its okay, short in the alternator. If it is dead, then its time to go poking at the fuses and do fuse voltage drop tests, the easy way to checj draw, also keep in mind that by opening/closing doors, pulling fuses, disconnecting the battery is going to wake up modules and give you false readings due to the module waking up. I forget how long the ford needs to sit to go back to sleep, but typically it is 20 minutes. And around 100mA during sleep is normal. Old wives tale that 65mA is the most you should see--that was fine in older cars with minimal electronics. Even my box drew 95mA at rest. I forget what my 2008 draws, but it'll be up there also, probably into the 100mA range.

        Anyway fuse voltage drop testing, quick intro https://www.searchautoparts.com/moto...parasitic-draw

        And a chart. make sure you use the right one for the fuse type you are checking.
        https://www.powerprobetek.com/wp-con...use-charts.pdf

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          #19
          Thanks I’ll try that in the morning. The battery has been charging for the past couple of days so it should be good to go in the morning.


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            #20
            Ok so after letting it charge my battery reads 13.5v or so sitting and 14.66v while running. I got another reading after sitting for 5 or so minutes and it’s around 13.25v but because the battery has been discharged a few times I’m sure it’s going to be at the lower end of healthy. Anyway I tried the voltage drop test and all read 0, even the lcm fuses but this time I put a screwdriver in the latch to simulate door being closed.

            Next up, I know the alternator is brand new but I know even if it’s new doesn’t mean it’s good so I set my meter to ac current and put them across the terminals and sure enough it says 31.1v. That sounds very high to me. I had it on the 200v scale by the way. Bad diode? Shouldn’t I have picked that up when I did the original parasitic drag test? I unplugged the alternator connector (not the big one) and it didn’t change.


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              #21
              yeah... alternator (voltage regulator) is bad if there's that much AC coming out. That's not good for any of the electronics in the car.

              Only two things are infinite, the universe and human stupidity, and I'm not sure about the former. -- Albert Einstein
              rides: 93 Crown Vic LX (The Red Velvet Cake), 2000 Crown Vic base model (Sandy), 2003 Expedition (the vacation beast)
              Originally posted by gadget73
              ... and it should all work like magic and unicorns and stuff.
              Originally posted by dmccaig
              Overhead, some poor bastards are flying in airplanes.

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                #22
                I’m hoping that’s the root cause of the battery draining issue too. I have a spare alternator in my pile o parts I’ll try out.


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                  #23
                  And the saga continues... I had a spare Denso 6g alternator stashed away for my 07 gt but since that car is sitting I thought I’d swap it on my vic. They’re pretty much identical so it was easy. I put my multimeter on it, 14.3v at cold idle even when revving. I set it to ac and... 31.1v! I’m pissing because I wasted my time swapping the damn alternator for no reason. I’m convinced it’s the meter, there’s no way both read the same thing. Maybe that’s also why there was no drain to be found on any of my circuits. The only way I found the original drain was putting the meter in line with the battery, checking the fuses one by one with the meter didn’t do anything. Needless to say, I will be swapping it out of a new meter and trying again. I’m going to leave the battery hooked up right now but I’ll check the voltage when I get home later tonight.

                  On a side note, apparently there is a shortage of battery cutoff switches. I went to 3 auto part stores yesterday and none had a single one. The guy at the register said the manufacturer has been shut down until a week or so ago. I have one somewhere but of course when I really need it it goes missing. Anyway, I don’t know how true that is but it seems to be the case in my area.


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                    #24
                    I second the meter being faulty. I’ve seen many guys in my line of work use those Klein meters only to get strange readings resulting in frustration. They calm down after I hand them my fluke. Not saying you need to use a fluke just something other than Klein.


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                      #25
                      +1 bad meter. Use the lower (20V 2V) AC settings and see if those work. My experience with meters is that they usually don't break all settings, but just one here or there.

                      Only two things are infinite, the universe and human stupidity, and I'm not sure about the former. -- Albert Einstein
                      rides: 93 Crown Vic LX (The Red Velvet Cake), 2000 Crown Vic base model (Sandy), 2003 Expedition (the vacation beast)
                      Originally posted by gadget73
                      ... and it should all work like magic and unicorns and stuff.
                      Originally posted by dmccaig
                      Overhead, some poor bastards are flying in airplanes.

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                        #26
                        I was thinking the same thing, I’ll swing by Home Depot tomorrow to grab another one before work. Also it only has 200v and 600v ac scales for some strange reason. I’m a little annoyed by all of this right now and work isn’t making it any better.


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                          #27
                          wow... even the Harbor Freight almost POS DMM (the $23 one - the $6 one is no different) has more AC settings than that.

                          Only two things are infinite, the universe and human stupidity, and I'm not sure about the former. -- Albert Einstein
                          rides: 93 Crown Vic LX (The Red Velvet Cake), 2000 Crown Vic base model (Sandy), 2003 Expedition (the vacation beast)
                          Originally posted by gadget73
                          ... and it should all work like magic and unicorns and stuff.
                          Originally posted by dmccaig
                          Overhead, some poor bastards are flying in airplanes.

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                            #28
                            I let the car sit from yesterday at about noon to this morning and sure enough it started right up. I don’t know if it was the alternator or what, that’s the only thing I did so I’m at a loss but it seems to be fixed.


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                              #29
                              If one of the rectifier diodes is shorted, it'll draw current when the car is off and drain out the battery. I got a clamp meter specifically for testing for this problem (ExTech MA220) so I could just clamp over the charge cable and see if there was current when the car was off. I've found 4 bad alternators that way so far. One was pulling 5 amps when off too. That one would drain the battery in about 2.5 hours. One was only pulling half an amp. That would would drain a battery over night.

                              Only two things are infinite, the universe and human stupidity, and I'm not sure about the former. -- Albert Einstein
                              rides: 93 Crown Vic LX (The Red Velvet Cake), 2000 Crown Vic base model (Sandy), 2003 Expedition (the vacation beast)
                              Originally posted by gadget73
                              ... and it should all work like magic and unicorns and stuff.
                              Originally posted by dmccaig
                              Overhead, some poor bastards are flying in airplanes.

                              Comment


                                #30
                                I’m a novice with electronics, that’s the only reason I didn’t get a better meter but they do look cool lol. I’ll get a better one.


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