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    Door Entry Pad Code

    I'm thinking about buying a 2010 Lincoln Town Car, but seller doesn't know the door pad entry code. Can I get this code somewhere in/on the car, or from a dealer (based on VIN)?

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    #2
    Driver door module - pull driver door panel off and should be a sticker on the module itself. Sticker may be on the back side of the module. Simply unbolt from the door.

    Only two things are infinite, the universe and human stupidity, and I'm not sure about the former. -- Albert Einstein
    rides: 93 Crown Vic LX (The Red Velvet Cake), 2000 Crown Vic base model (Sandy), 2003 Expedition (the vacation beast)
    Originally posted by gadget73
    ... and it should all work like magic and unicorns and stuff.
    Originally posted by dmccaig
    Overhead, some poor bastards are flying in airplanes.

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      #3
      Originally posted by sly View Post
      Driver door module - pull driver door panel off and should be a sticker on the module itself. Sticker may be on the back side of the module. Simply unbolt from the door.
      Thank you. Simple enough. Here's what I'm looking at.
      https://www.cars.com/shopping/lincol...iladelphia-pa/
      My 2004 is beginning to rust out in the rear quarter panels and my body guy (who will only do a complete metal replacement, not a bondo job) wants $3K for the job. Concidering the work and paint involved, it isn't bad, but is the car worth it? Any pre-fab repair quarter panel fender wells exist for this purpose?

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      Last edited by 94Magna_Tom; 11-15-2020, 07:32 PM.

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        #4
        If the body is rusting out, what does the frame and the lines underneath look like? Having spent a lot of money fixing a rusty car, I can tell you its a better idea to get one that doesn't have rust if at all possible.

        The quarter panels on my car were cut out of junkyard cars that weren't rusty. Maybe repair panels exist for newer ones, don't know.
        86 Lincoln Town Car (Galactica).
        5.0 HO, CompCams XE258,Scorpion 1.72 roller rockers, 3.55 K code rear, tow package, BHPerformance ported E7 heads, Tmoss Explorer intake, 65mm throttle body, Hedman 1 5/8" headers, 2.5" dual exhaust, ASP underdrive pulley

        91 Lincoln Mark VII LSC grandpa spec white and cranberry

        1984 Lincoln Continental TurboDiesel - rolls coal

        Originally posted by phayzer5
        I drive a Lincoln. I can't be bothered to shift like the peasants and rabble rousers

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          #5
          Pretty sure that's where my guy would get them from too. There's a fair amount of rust in the frame, and on all the attachment brackets that secure the plastic body parts to the frame. The car still looks great, but in another year, it'll start to show. If I get the newer, cleaner one, I can sell mine for $3-4K to put towards it.
          Here my '04.
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          Last edited by 94Magna_Tom; 11-15-2020, 07:58 PM.

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            #6
            3,000 in rust repair IF it was not complete throughout the car would be too much in my opinion. The Lincolns/CV/MGMs of those years at auction are going cheap. 800-2500 sometimes a little more. At retail they are more but may have the same problems. If those cars were in rust free areas of the country they are worth so much more. Here they are mostly used as taxis and are quickly driven into the ground.
            If you really love your car, then it does not matter the cost within reason, to keep it on the road. You know what you have.

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              #7
              I got the 2010 Lincoln Town Car. Just enough room in the driveway for the two of them.

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                #8
                Nice Lincoln. Always nice to have two.

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