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Prudence, my 87 Town Car

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    You can change the shocks yourself pretty easily. Two bottom screws, one top one. Slides right out. I would hold the suspension with a floor jack and use it to raise the suspension if needed when installing the top bushings and nut. Have the frame on jack stands. No special tools needed. One hour if you don't have to deal with rust.
    I also would check the wheel bearings again. Disassemble. You might have a bad bearing.Especially if it has a plastic not metal cage. Did you put a new carter pin in ?

    Comment


      Even if you have to deal with rust on the fronts, the top bolt will hopefully just snap off and then you can take it out after unscrewing the bottoms.

      That's what happened for both sides of my CV: http://www.grandmarq.net/vb/showthre...l=1#post720265

      The threaded inserts into the lower control arms could strip out, if that's the case you'll need to nut & bolt it on. not a big deal though.

      '78 LTD | '87 Grand Marquis | '89 Crown Vic (RIP) | '91 Grand Marquis (RIP) | '94 Town Car (RIP) | '97 Town Car (RIP)

      Comment


        if the top nut is stuck like it usually is, you can just stick a deep socket and a long extension on there and rock it back and forth a few times until it snaps off.

        The bottom screws stripping out is the bigger problem, but still nothing that can't be dealt with.
        86 Lincoln Town Car (Galactica).
        5.0 HO, CompCams XE258,Scorpion 1.72 roller rockers, 3.55 K code rear, tow package, BHPerformance ported E7 heads, Tmoss Explorer intake, 65mm throttle body, Hedman 1 5/8" headers, 2.5" dual exhaust, ASP underdrive pulley

        91 Lincoln Mark VII LSC grandpa spec white and cranberry

        1984 Lincoln Continental TurboDiesel - rolls coal

        Originally posted by phayzer5
        I drive a Lincoln. I can't be bothered to shift like the peasants and rabble rousers

        Comment


          I don't see any rust on mine. In fact, the upper washer and nuts look brand new. The lower half looks pretty good, too. Knock on wood, but I'm hoping there won't be any trouble.

          My biggest fear for this job is the tarantula hawk that rumbled into the garage yesterday and is now unsettlingly quiet. I don't really want to be under the car while he comes poking around.

          re: Tom - The new bearings are Nationals, and they all have metal cages. I did reuse the cotter pins, which are probably two years old now from when I had the rotors replaced.

          In other news, I'm still occasionally noticing some engine vibration at idle, in drive or park. I'm planning on swapping out the ignition coil, since that and the TFI module are the only parts of the ignition system that haven't been replaced since I got the car. And to my understanding, the TFI module either works or it doesn't. So hopefully the coil is on its way out and swapping it produces results.
          1987 Lincoln Town Car - Signature, "Prudence"

          Comment


            Usually the TFI behaves in a working or not way. However I did have one that I picked up from the JY which introduced a miss at higher RPMs. I was able to confirm that the TFI was indeed the culprit when swapping between modules and that one always introduced that miss with all other ignition parts not changed and same timing. Now, I'm not saying that your issue is the TFI, but if the coil is not the issue don't completely rule out the TFI module.
            Vic

            ~ 1989 MGM LS Colony Park - Large Marge
            ~ 1998 MGM LS - new DD
            ~ 1991 MGM LS "The Scab"
            ~ 1991 MGM GS "The Ice Car"

            Comment


              yeah they can get goofy, and in ways that are intermittent or act like any number of other things. Its a moody ignition system and since the injectors are driven from the output it makes everything stupid along with it.
              86 Lincoln Town Car (Galactica).
              5.0 HO, CompCams XE258,Scorpion 1.72 roller rockers, 3.55 K code rear, tow package, BHPerformance ported E7 heads, Tmoss Explorer intake, 65mm throttle body, Hedman 1 5/8" headers, 2.5" dual exhaust, ASP underdrive pulley

              91 Lincoln Mark VII LSC grandpa spec white and cranberry

              1984 Lincoln Continental TurboDiesel - rolls coal

              Originally posted by phayzer5
              I drive a Lincoln. I can't be bothered to shift like the peasants and rabble rousers

              Comment


                New shocks are in. That was pretty easy. Old shocks were Monroe 5960ST's. Driver's side was totally dead - pushed it in and it just stayed there - while the passenger's side had a little bit of life in it. Had to compress the new shocks with the bottle jack to get the lower bolts started, but that wasn't a big deal. Only question I have about the whole thing is torquing the upper nut(s). The nuts are fully on the shock, plenty of thread above, and the washer and rubber are secured. But before I can get any sort of torque reading the nuts just spin with the shock. Is this a problem, or will the upper nut keep the lower one in place?

                Went on a test drive and bumps feel a bit smoother. Unfortunately, the pulse/vibration is still there.

                My new working theory, notwithstanding other problems in the suspension: it's the transmission.

                Evidence:
                1) I've noticed when accelerating at certain speeds - at least between 30-35 - as soon as I let off the throttle I'll feel a small jerk, similar in feel to the intermittent pulse.

                2) Shifts into 2nd have been producing a similar jerk. Coming from 1st, I'll be accelerating up to about 15 mph, feel a bit of pressure building, and then a quick, pulse-like release into 2nd. Going down from 3rd due to slowing down can produce a similar jerkiness. I don't believe I've experienced this behavior when going from a stop all the way up to highway speeds.

                3) While not the only trigger, the pulsing does seem to correlate with long inclines, both up and down hill. Coasting or braking may also trigger this behavior.

                Counterpoints:
                1) The car has a large exhaust leak. Although I would expect the pulsing to correlate more with acceleration if this were the cause.

                2) Trans fluid level seems to be good. It's red on the dipstick, but pretty full of clutch stuff when wiped on a towel. A fluid change is still on my agenda.

                Conclusion:
                My uneducated guess is this has something to do with the valve body. Maybe it's full of gunk, something is sticking, and as it imperfectly operates it produces this pulsing sensation? And if so, changing the fluid might help, but cleaning out the valve body might be the ultimate solution?

                Does this sound plausible? While I was thinking suspension before, and definitely found parts that needed replacement, the closeness in feeling of the pulse to points 1 and 2 make me think there's some shared cause there.
                1987 Lincoln Town Car - Signature, "Prudence"

                Comment


                  Sometimes spark plugs can miss in a way that feels like a trans issue. As if they are, or often just one is, fouled but not bad enough to miss all the time.
                  Number 8 being the primary culprit to foul first on these engines, then 7 or 4 next. Worth a shot to take a look at something cheap and (relatively) easy first if you haven't already.
                  Vic

                  ~ 1989 MGM LS Colony Park - Large Marge
                  ~ 1998 MGM LS - new DD
                  ~ 1991 MGM LS "The Scab"
                  ~ 1991 MGM GS "The Ice Car"

                  Comment


                    I still have a herky jerk on decel on my rig, but I'm kinda running out of things to check/replace on the engine side of things... And I really don't want it to be a trans issue.
                    1985 Mercury Grand Marquis LS, "Maisa"
                    1995 Chevrolet Caprice Classic STW, "Sally"

                    Comment


                      driveline slop from bad U joints or trans mounts does odd things. Clutch material in the fluid not a wonderful sign though. The AOD is not exactly known for being the smoothest transmission ever created so a bit of clunk and bang may just be what it is. Low pressure in the trans also makes it tend to shudder, but that also goes with quick upshifts, laggy downshifts, and general death and destruction from clutch slippage so if its in overdrive by 30, thats not good.

                      If the shocks have jam nuts, run the lower one down until it starts to squish the rubber mounts or the shaft spins. Lock the second nut against it. Install torque on this isn't important, you just want some compression out of the rubber so things stay put.
                      86 Lincoln Town Car (Galactica).
                      5.0 HO, CompCams XE258,Scorpion 1.72 roller rockers, 3.55 K code rear, tow package, BHPerformance ported E7 heads, Tmoss Explorer intake, 65mm throttle body, Hedman 1 5/8" headers, 2.5" dual exhaust, ASP underdrive pulley

                      91 Lincoln Mark VII LSC grandpa spec white and cranberry

                      1984 Lincoln Continental TurboDiesel - rolls coal

                      Originally posted by phayzer5
                      I drive a Lincoln. I can't be bothered to shift like the peasants and rabble rousers

                      Comment


                        Good to know on the shocks. The instructions are all just pictograms, so not a lot of nuance there.

                        I'll give the plugs a look. They were done with the rotor, cap, and wires the summer before last, so if one's bad already I wouldn't be too happy. Although I've already replaced two wires from managing to break the metal connector off inside the boot when I pull them from the plugs. Presumably my technique is wrong and they're not meant to be that delicate. Everything feels like it's seated properly now, but I do worry that one isn't making contact behind one of the boots.

                        Back in the trans, shift points still happen at the right spot. I still have OD, which kicks in right around 38. The only weirdness with shifting is going into 2nd. Although there was also the slipping in 1st going up out of a parking garage, which I haven't experienced since but only because the circumstances haven't happened again.

                        Both u joints are brand new. The trans mount could well be shot, though. It's been marinating in some sort of leaked fluid for awhile now. I'd swap it out, but I can't find a replacement part anywhere and any junkyard mount is probably not much better at this point.
                        1987 Lincoln Town Car - Signature, "Prudence"

                        Comment


                          I believe the Mustang mount is basically the same, but you have to use a grinder to egg out the holes in the crossmember or something. I'm pretty sure its been posted on here before with pics, I just don't happen to remember the specifics off the top of my head.

                          they're mostly toast by now, the fluid turns them into a jelly-like material and nothing holds solid. I had the same situation with the rack mount bushings on my Continental and the motor mounts on the Towncar. Original trans mount was completely wasted, but the crossmember was also rusted and by some miracle the crossmember I found laying on the ground in the junkyard had a nearly new mount on it so thats what went in the car and still lives there 15 years later. Oil leaks are bad for more than just messy floor reasons.
                          86 Lincoln Town Car (Galactica).
                          5.0 HO, CompCams XE258,Scorpion 1.72 roller rockers, 3.55 K code rear, tow package, BHPerformance ported E7 heads, Tmoss Explorer intake, 65mm throttle body, Hedman 1 5/8" headers, 2.5" dual exhaust, ASP underdrive pulley

                          91 Lincoln Mark VII LSC grandpa spec white and cranberry

                          1984 Lincoln Continental TurboDiesel - rolls coal

                          Originally posted by phayzer5
                          I drive a Lincoln. I can't be bothered to shift like the peasants and rabble rousers

                          Comment


                            Yes, I picked up a Mustang mount and held it up to the car - the studs that go through the crossmember are inset maybe half an inch. Pretty strange that Ford would go through the trouble of making two different mounts that are nearly identical to each other. I don't have a die grinder, so I'll have to farm that job out to someone here on post.
                            1987 Lincoln Town Car - Signature, "Prudence"

                            Comment


                              What's the best way to do the trans mount?

                              I was figuring I'd unbolt the mount, jack the trans up, and pull the mount out. But an LMR video showed them supporting the trans and dropping the crossmember. That was on a Fox body, but I assume it's all close enough.
                              1987 Lincoln Town Car - Signature, "Prudence"

                              Comment


                                Its easier on a fox body to actually drop the trans crossmember.

                                Our crossmember is not the same at all. When i did mine I jacked up trans and I think I had to unbolt crossmember too. Depending on exhaust set up it aint easy getting it out. Just need to get it out of the way some and you should be able to wrestle the old out and new in.
                                ~David~

                                My 1987 Crown Victoria Coupe: The Brown Blob
                                My 2004 Mercedes Benz E320:The Benz

                                Originally posted by ootdega
                                My life is a long series of "nevermind" and "I guess not."

                                Originally posted by DerekTheGreat
                                But, that's just coming from me, this site's biggest pessimist. Best of luck

                                Originally posted by gadget73
                                my car starts and it has AC. Yours doesn't start and it has no AC. Seems obvious to me.




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