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Thread: Prudence, my 87 Town Car

  1. #81
    The Brown Blob 87gtVIC's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Lutrova View Post
    Went on a whim to the junkyard in Hesperia this past Sunday. There was a '90 P74 Crown Vic that had come into the yard that Friday, and I was hopeful it might have a rear sway bar. Sure enough, it did, though I believe it's the smaller, handling package bar. But I understand that any rear sway bar is better than nothing, and for $25 it seems like it's worth a shot. I had to get past a black widow while taking the wheels off, my first desert spider encounter while living down here. The drums were covered in what I think were egg sacs and former spiders. Glad that wasn't my car.



    I also grabbed the washer fluid reservoir. Haven't tested the pump or sensor, but it does hold water. David, I know you had passed up one long ago due to broken mounting tabs, and this one's no better in that regard. But if you want it, let me know, otherwise I'll compare it to the '90 TC reservoir to see which one fits my inner fender better.



    Side question: the 90s Boxes moved some relays from the fender to the vacuum reservoir to free up space for the washer tank, but is there anything special about the way they're mounted on the 80s Boxes? Are they grounded through the fender or would otherwise not function if I unbolted them and let them dangle?
    You can test fit it with your car. If you pass on it maybe we can work something out. I would not use it other than test fitting and if it passes that test I would peruse a suitable replacement to install into my car. My question and something I pretty much now the answer of is if it clears the fender braces that wagons come with.

    Nice score on the bar and hardware.
    ~David~

    My 1987 Crown Victoria Coupe: The Brown Blob
    My 2004 Mercedes Benz E320:The Benz

    Quote Originally Posted by DerekTheGreat View Post
    But, that's just coming from me, this site's biggest pessimist. Best of luck

  2. #82
    fomoco panthers !
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    Quote Originally Posted by DerekTheGreat View Post
    Pics or it didn't happen. Speaking of, you need to make us rust belters cry with photos of the all the "good" cars that are junked out your way. Wife and I went to a yard in FLA when we visited my dad and almost cried with the clean old cars that were discarded..
    Yes too many nice vehicles are junked before their time. Either tired of it, Didn't pass smog and the repair person wanted to rip them off, so they junked it, impounds. Even back in the early 70s dealers junked great cars because they were WHITE. Dealers did not want white on their lots. I remember rows of beautiful cars just a few years old in San Diego at A-1 Metals. Junk yard had to agree not to sell them as whole cars. Gave me PTSD on that issue.

  3. #83
    GMN Regular DerekTheGreat's Avatar
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    Jeez... You know, I didn't like white until I owned a white car. Was the first car I ever insured actually, but I came to love the color. Forget what GM called it but it had a very, very slight blue hue to it, was a '94 Grand Am.
    1985 LTD Crown Victoria - SOLD
    1988 Town Car Signature - Current Party Barge

  4. #84
    Carthago delenda est Lutrova's Avatar
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    Got the car back together and running last night for the first time in a month. Unfortunately, the exhaust leak I set out to fix is noticeably worse. Or it's moved. I can clearly hear a tick on acceleration coming from below the passenger floor and a generally louder exhaust sound, whereas before the leak was only audible when reflected off curbs or nearby walls. Will have to hook the vacuum up to a tailpipe and check for leaks. The obvious culprit would be the manifold to downpipe connection. There is no play in the pipes, but the way those two pieces connect make me think I might have them seated wrong. Really hoping it's not between the manifold and head or anything with the smog pump tubes.

    Other than that all the other recent acquisitions seem to be working well. Fan shroud and coolant overflow are in, as is the new air intake. Definitely like having all this open space beside the engine now. I'm waiting to install the washer reservoir while I figure out what to do with the fender liner and the newly displaced relays.



    The rear sway bar seems to have cut down on body roll a bit, though it's still a boat. I'm glad I have it installed anyway.

  5. #85
    Wagon Addicted Tiggie's Avatar
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    Looking modern under there.
    1990 Country Squire - weekend cruiser, next project
    1988 Crown Vic LTD Wagon - waiting in the wings

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  6. #86
    fomoco panthers !
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    Looks very good. I would like to do that mod to one of my Lincolns. Need a good junkyard to go to.

  7. #87
    The Brown Blob 87gtVIC's Avatar
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    Very nice. I was quite happy the first time I did that do my car..big improvement in the looks department.
    ~David~

    My 1987 Crown Victoria Coupe: The Brown Blob
    My 2004 Mercedes Benz E320:The Benz

    Quote Originally Posted by DerekTheGreat View Post
    But, that's just coming from me, this site's biggest pessimist. Best of luck

  8. #88
    GMN Regular DerekTheGreat's Avatar
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    Yeah, that really cleans & opens things up in there.
    1985 LTD Crown Victoria - SOLD
    1988 Town Car Signature - Current Party Barge

  9. #89
    Carthago delenda est Lutrova's Avatar
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    Took another look at the exhaust last night, this time with the vacuum hooked up. Had a major leak at the passenger manifold to downpipe connection, as I suspected. Took a little coaxing to reseat, but fortunately the passenger side flange is the easier of the two to get to. Still have some little leaks to take care of, but things are much quieter now.

    Drove Prudence down to Barstow today for groceries. I'm definitely noticing a decent amount of vibration, both at cruising speed but moreso at idle. It goes away, though, if I shift into park. Since it happens at idle I assume it's not the brakes. The differential has always whined on acceleration, but that hasn't seemed to change recently. I'm not really sure how to go about diagnosing from here.

    On another note, I started to hear a clank, like driving over a steel plate or railroad tracks, when going over bumps or dips. Turns out one of the sway bar bushings finally gave up the ghost. I measure 31/32" with the calipers, but most bushings I see online are 15/16". Is that close enough?

  10. #90
    I'm an air-conditioned gypsy gadget73's Avatar
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    Does it do this when idling and not moving? If so that sounds like either a misfire or really shitty motor mounts.

    If it only happens when moving, go for the U joints.


    15/16 is 30/32, the rubber will give 1/32 easily.

    86 Lincoln Town Car (Galactica).
    5.0 HO, CompCams XE258,Scorpion 1.72 roller rockers, 3.55 K code rear, tow package, BHPerformance ported E7 heads, Tmoss Explorer intake, 65mm throttle body, Hedman 1 5/8" headers, 2.5" dual exhaust, ASP underdrive pulley

    91 Lincoln Mark VII LSC SE, triple black (Timewarp) - poly front bushings, KYB struts and shocks, Holley SystemMax1 lower intake, SilverFox AOD valve body,

    1984 Lincoln Continental TurboDiesel - rolls coal

    Quote Originally Posted by phayzer5 View Post
    I drive a Lincoln. I can't be bothered to shift like the peasants and rabble rousers

  11. #91
    Carthago delenda est Lutrova's Avatar
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    Yeah, it's most noticeable when stopped while in gear, but I definitely can pick up on something when it gets above 40 or so, too. Goes away entirely as soon as it shifts into park.

    I'll try running a scan test tonight and see if I get any codes.

    One, maybe both mounts were soaked in oil from past leaks. I wouldn't be surprised if that didn't help their longevity. Though I'm not particularly excited by the idea of replacing them.

  12. #92
    GMN Regular DerekTheGreat's Avatar
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    Try throwing a strong magnet on the diff cover, might help with the whine and prolong the life of it.
    1985 LTD Crown Victoria - SOLD
    1988 Town Car Signature - Current Party Barge

  13. #93
    I'm an air-conditioned gypsy gadget73's Avatar
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    another thought, did you have the fan off to do the shroud? If so, did it have a bushing inside the clutch that maybe got lost? The replacement clutches have a larger bore than what our pumps use, and there is a bronze bushing that goes in there to make it all work. If the bushing is gone the fan doesn't center properly and it makes things vibrate. Easy enough to tell, watch the clutch with the engine running. If its running off center you'll see it pretty quick.

    86 Lincoln Town Car (Galactica).
    5.0 HO, CompCams XE258,Scorpion 1.72 roller rockers, 3.55 K code rear, tow package, BHPerformance ported E7 heads, Tmoss Explorer intake, 65mm throttle body, Hedman 1 5/8" headers, 2.5" dual exhaust, ASP underdrive pulley

    91 Lincoln Mark VII LSC SE, triple black (Timewarp) - poly front bushings, KYB struts and shocks, Holley SystemMax1 lower intake, SilverFox AOD valve body,

    1984 Lincoln Continental TurboDiesel - rolls coal

    Quote Originally Posted by phayzer5 View Post
    I drive a Lincoln. I can't be bothered to shift like the peasants and rabble rousers

  14. #94
    Carthago delenda est Lutrova's Avatar
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    I did, though I always just unbolt the fan from the water pump pulley. I don't believe I've ever separated the clutch from the fan. Will take a look, though.

    I had to replace a spark plug wire that broke on removal for the exhaust job, and I'm a little worried that another wire might appear to be good but doesn't actually make a good connection. But now that I think of it, there was some idle vibration even before doing the exhaust manifolds and fan shroud, though it wasn't quite as pronounced. Overall, the engine sounds good.

    Quote Originally Posted by DerekTheGreat View Post
    Try throwing a strong magnet on the diff cover, might help with the whine and prolong the life of it.
    On the outside or inside? If I'm opening it up, I suppose there are probably other things I should be looking at while I'm in there.

  15. #95
    I'm an air-conditioned gypsy gadget73's Avatar
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    Sounds odd and I have absolutely no idea if its anecdotal but when I did the pinion seal on the Conti I found that the pinion had no preload on it. One of the steps for doing seals is check the preload and if its at or above spec, put it back where it was. If its below, torque it until its in spec. When I set mine back to spec, the slight whine the diff had went away.

    preload on these is checked with a small inch-pound beam type wrench. Forget the specs offhand, something like 20 inch-pounds of drag, but basically you make the nut in the center of the flange tighter until you get that much drag when rotating the diff with the wheels off the ground and the brakes not dragging. If you've never had the diff open to change the oil though, its due for that and probably an axle inspection.


    The bushing sits in the clutch and centers it on the water pump shaft. Its not between the fan and the clutch.

    86 Lincoln Town Car (Galactica).
    5.0 HO, CompCams XE258,Scorpion 1.72 roller rockers, 3.55 K code rear, tow package, BHPerformance ported E7 heads, Tmoss Explorer intake, 65mm throttle body, Hedman 1 5/8" headers, 2.5" dual exhaust, ASP underdrive pulley

    91 Lincoln Mark VII LSC SE, triple black (Timewarp) - poly front bushings, KYB struts and shocks, Holley SystemMax1 lower intake, SilverFox AOD valve body,

    1984 Lincoln Continental TurboDiesel - rolls coal

    Quote Originally Posted by phayzer5 View Post
    I drive a Lincoln. I can't be bothered to shift like the peasants and rabble rousers

  16. #96
    GMN Regular DerekTheGreat's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Lutrova View Post
    ...On the outside or inside? If I'm opening it up, I suppose there are probably other things I should be looking at while I'm in there.
    If you're going to rebuild it, then you'd put it on the inside. If done right, you won't need it. Otherwise just toss it on the outside of the cover, supposed to help. I've got no first hand experience with that but I'd do it if I had a whine.
    1985 LTD Crown Victoria - SOLD
    1988 Town Car Signature - Current Party Barge

  17. #97
    Carthago delenda est Lutrova's Avatar
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    I watched a couple videos on rebuilding differentials last night, and I now know enough to know it's not a job I care to do myself. At least not anytime soon anyway. Looks like there are a good number of specialized tools required. Gear oil, though, I'm sure I can do.

    Haven't been out to the garage in a couple days, so I haven't finished checking out the engine or fan. Although I'm coming around to the idea that it could be the motor mounts. In talking with some guys at the office, it sounds like replacing them aren't quite as hard a job as I'm imagining them to be. Is this the correct mount? It looks like they make different parts for the driver and passenger sides, so I'd obviously get both.

    From looking around the forum, it sounds like I'll need a special flex socket if I want to keep the lower control arm in place. Is 13mm the right size?

    The shop manual just says support the engine with a jack and wood block. Does that mean pushing up on the oil pan? And if so, from in front of or behind the crossmember?

  18. #98
    Member WagonMan's Avatar
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    Most of the pre 1988 5.0s had lifting tabs on the exhaust manifolds. If you have an engine crane you can lift the engine up from under the hood. WagonMan
    1990 Colony Park
    1970 HEMI Superbird

  19. #99
    The Brown Blob 87gtVIC's Avatar
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    Yes 13mm swivel.. LOW LOW PROFILE not some deep socket. Look here:

    http://www.grandmarq.net/vb/showthre...l=1#post775079
    ~David~

    My 1987 Crown Victoria Coupe: The Brown Blob
    My 2004 Mercedes Benz E320:The Benz

    Quote Originally Posted by DerekTheGreat View Post
    But, that's just coming from me, this site's biggest pessimist. Best of luck

  20. #100
    I'm an air-conditioned gypsy gadget73's Avatar
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    kind of a bitch to change them. Only set I did with the LCA in I used a floor jack and a 2x6 on the pad to lift the engine by the front of the oil pan.

    with the right tools its possible, without you may as well forget it. Integrated swivel not-deep and a good long extension will get it. Go for a locking extrnsion if possible, otherwise tape the socket on if it doesn't fit real tight.

    86 Lincoln Town Car (Galactica).
    5.0 HO, CompCams XE258,Scorpion 1.72 roller rockers, 3.55 K code rear, tow package, BHPerformance ported E7 heads, Tmoss Explorer intake, 65mm throttle body, Hedman 1 5/8" headers, 2.5" dual exhaust, ASP underdrive pulley

    91 Lincoln Mark VII LSC SE, triple black (Timewarp) - poly front bushings, KYB struts and shocks, Holley SystemMax1 lower intake, SilverFox AOD valve body,

    1984 Lincoln Continental TurboDiesel - rolls coal

    Quote Originally Posted by phayzer5 View Post
    I drive a Lincoln. I can't be bothered to shift like the peasants and rabble rousers

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