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    Window motor replacement

    I did some research but couldn’t find much on how to remove the window motor. I took the door card off and can see there are a few bolts but they’re not accessable. I’ve done the motor bushings on my old 98 p71 but this setup is different. So how do I remove the motor?


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    #2
    There are two un-drilled dimples in the bottom of the door panel. They need to be drilled out to allow access to your socket. I can't remember the sizes. IIRC there are three bolts. minor PITA. Usually a little blood sacrifice is required.

    Use some black tape or sticky stuff in the sockets to help with removal & reinstall.
    03 Marauder DPB, HS, 6disk, Organizer Mods> LED's in & Out, M&Z rear control arms, Oil deflector, U-Haul Trans Pan, Blue Fuzzy Dice
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      #3
      Jaywish is correct if you are using 1/4" tools drill the 3 dimples with a 1/2" bit & then your 8mm socket on an extension will fit through to access bolts.

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        #4
        Amazingly some have forgone drilling and used wrenches to remove the three bolts. Now that is dedication to preserving the door.
        ~David~

        My 1987 Crown Victoria Coupe: The Brown Blob
        My 2004 Mercedes Benz E320:The Benz

        Originally posted by ootdega
        My life is a long series of "nevermind" and "I guess not."

        Originally posted by DerekTheGreat
        But, that's just coming from me, this site's biggest pessimist. Best of luck

        Originally posted by gadget73
        my car starts and it has AC. Yours doesn't start and it has no AC. Seems obvious to me.




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          #5
          Originally posted by 87gtVIC View Post
          Amazingly some have forgone drilling and used wrenches to remove the three bolts. Now that is dedication to preserving the door.
          You are a glutton for punishment David. My hands & patience no longer work good enough to even think about doing that with wrenches lol.

          Comment


            #6
            Originally posted by Mustang Eddie View Post
            You are a glutton for punishment David. My hands & patience no longer work good enough to even think about doing that with wrenches lol.
            Oh no was not me. Screw that.
            ~David~

            My 1987 Crown Victoria Coupe: The Brown Blob
            My 2004 Mercedes Benz E320:The Benz

            Originally posted by ootdega
            My life is a long series of "nevermind" and "I guess not."

            Originally posted by DerekTheGreat
            But, that's just coming from me, this site's biggest pessimist. Best of luck

            Originally posted by gadget73
            my car starts and it has AC. Yours doesn't start and it has no AC. Seems obvious to me.




            Comment


              #7
              Oh ok I’ll look for those dimples the next time I’m out there but hopefully I can get them without drilling.


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                #8
                DRILL BABY DRILL!!

                The old girl needs a thrill!
                03 Marauder DPB, HS, 6disk, Organizer Mods> LED's in & Out, M&Z rear control arms, Oil deflector, U-Haul Trans Pan, Blue Fuzzy Dice
                02 SL500 Silver Arrow
                08 TC Signature Limited, HID's Mods>235/55-17 Z rated BFG G-Force Comp-2 A/S Plus, Addco 1" rear Sway, Posi Carrier, Compustar Remote Start, floor liners, trunk organizer, Two part Sun Visors, B&M Trans drain Plug, Winter=05 Mustang GT rims, Nokian Hakkapeliitta R-2 235/55-17
                12 Escape Limited V6 AWD, 225/65R17 Vredestein Quatrac Pro, Winter 235/70-16 Conti Viking Contact7 Mods>Beamtech LED headlight bulbs, Husky floor liners

                Comment


                  #9
                  Originally posted by 87GrandMarq View Post
                  Oh ok I’ll look for those dimples the next time I’m out there but hopefully I can get them without drilling.


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                  It can be done without drilling, if you want to spend that much time. It's extremely frustrating to get the bolts back in. Lots of tape, magnets, Operation (the game) experience, some MacGyver like thinking, more cursing than the drill method, and more chance of blood sacrifice than the drill method.
                  I only did the no-drill method once on my first window motor replacement a couple decades(ish) ago. I don't remember how many hours it took but I did get it.

                  Don't tighten any of the bolts until they are all started. Try to tape the bolts in place before putting the motor in place might help, maybe tape on the end of the tiny wrench, tape wherever might be useful, and very skinny fingers are definitely helpful. Put a big magnet in the bottom of the door since you will drop a bolt many times.

                  There wasn't one specific thing I remember working for the no-drill method, other than lots of time.

                  The drill really is the best way and is the method in the service manual.

                  Edit: just saw David's post. Based on experience, I highly don't recommend the no-drill method.
                  Last edited by VicCrownVic; 01-05-2021, 02:13 AM.
                  Vic

                  ~ 1989 MGM LS Colony Park - Large Marge
                  ~ 1998 MGM LS - new DD
                  ~ 1991 MGM LS "The Scab"
                  ~ 1991 MGM GS "The Ice Car"

                  Comment


                    #10
                    Son and i drilled all four to rebuild the motors. I wouldnt even try no drill.
                    1987 CV LX 5.0

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                      #11
                      So I stepped up and drilled the dimples. They came out clean until I stepped up to the 1/2 but then they got jagged, oh well it’s behind the door panel. I got the motor out and opened it up to find the bushings were completely gone, goop all over and the plastic gear broke. I had ordered only the bushings thinking that was the only problem, oh well. I ended up getting one of those kits by Dorman with the plastic and metal gears, bushings and lube. It’ll be here on Thursday.





                      I didn’t take a picture of the plastic gear but the part that the bushings go in are what broke not the gear itself. It’s hidden behind the small metal gear.


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                        #12
                        After you do the bloody install. slap a little paint around the bare metal. Do a nice job with the door seal. It is worth it. It does not need to be pretty. you can get 1/2 plugs that look nice in those holes.
                        03 Marauder DPB, HS, 6disk, Organizer Mods> LED's in & Out, M&Z rear control arms, Oil deflector, U-Haul Trans Pan, Blue Fuzzy Dice
                        02 SL500 Silver Arrow
                        08 TC Signature Limited, HID's Mods>235/55-17 Z rated BFG G-Force Comp-2 A/S Plus, Addco 1" rear Sway, Posi Carrier, Compustar Remote Start, floor liners, trunk organizer, Two part Sun Visors, B&M Trans drain Plug, Winter=05 Mustang GT rims, Nokian Hakkapeliitta R-2 235/55-17
                        12 Escape Limited V6 AWD, 225/65R17 Vredestein Quatrac Pro, Winter 235/70-16 Conti Viking Contact7 Mods>Beamtech LED headlight bulbs, Husky floor liners

                        Comment


                          #13
                          For future reference (not that you did anything wrong as I have done this hundreds of times before knowing) thinner sheet metal like this does not take kindly to drill bits. A step bit works out nicer. The flutes in the standard drill bit like to bit and suck your drill in and you get some flaring of the metal from that. A step bit on the other hand wont do that and leave you with a cleaner hole.

                          New tools I see. They are not all scratched and dirtied up yet.
                          ~David~

                          My 1987 Crown Victoria Coupe: The Brown Blob
                          My 2004 Mercedes Benz E320:The Benz

                          Originally posted by ootdega
                          My life is a long series of "nevermind" and "I guess not."

                          Originally posted by DerekTheGreat
                          But, that's just coming from me, this site's biggest pessimist. Best of luck

                          Originally posted by gadget73
                          my car starts and it has AC. Yours doesn't start and it has no AC. Seems obvious to me.




                          Comment


                            #14
                            was just gonna say step drill. It also de-burrs the metal so its not quite so slicey.
                            86 Lincoln Town Car (Galactica).
                            5.0 HO, CompCams XE258,Scorpion 1.72 roller rockers, 3.55 K code rear, tow package, BHPerformance ported E7 heads, Tmoss Explorer intake, 65mm throttle body, Hedman 1 5/8" headers, 2.5" dual exhaust, ASP underdrive pulley

                            91 Lincoln Mark VII LSC grandpa spec white and cranberry

                            1984 Lincoln Continental TurboDiesel - rolls coal

                            Originally posted by phayzer5
                            I drive a Lincoln. I can't be bothered to shift like the peasants and rabble rousers

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                              #15
                              Thanks for the advise guys. I’m going to at least put a little paint on the edges. Yeah I noticed when I used the 1/2” bit it started grabbing the metal and making jagged edges. Anything under that though was fine and it actually looked clean lol.

                              As for the tools, they hardly get used. The driver is about 2 years old and the drill about a year. I work at Home Depot on the side so I see ryobi stuff all the time and like the cheap price. It’s good enough for me because I use them only a few times a year and try to keep them clean. I guess I’m a little old school but I like using hand tools. Power tools definitely helped with this project though.


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