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Thread: Window motor replacement

  1. #1

    Default Window motor replacement

    I did some research but couldnít find much on how to remove the window motor. I took the door card off and can see there are a few bolts but theyíre not accessable. Iíve done the motor bushings on my old 98 p71 but this setup is different. So how do I remove the motor?


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  2. #2
    I post a lot...
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    There are two un-drilled dimples in the bottom of the door panel. They need to be drilled out to allow access to your socket. I can't remember the sizes. IIRC there are three bolts. minor PITA. Usually a little blood sacrifice is required.

    Use some black tape or sticky stuff in the sockets to help with removal & reinstall.
    "X" car 89 Colony Park LS Mods>Engine delete, SS duals magnaflow hflow cats, 2010 Must GT mufflers, auto air shocks, Posi, Tran cooler, big front brakes, 03+ rear disks, Large 3g alt, Tripminder, GS grill, 86 seats, 16" HPP wheels, winter boots=96 Cartier wheels, 215-65/16 Goodyear ULTRA GW3 snows, pi rear sway, alum driveshaft.
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  3. #3
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    Jaywish is correct if you are using 1/4" tools drill the 3 dimples with a 1/2" bit & then your 8mm socket on an extension will fit through to access bolts.

  4. #4
    The Brown Blob 87gtVIC's Avatar
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    Amazingly some have forgone drilling and used wrenches to remove the three bolts. Now that is dedication to preserving the door.
    ~David~

    My 1987 Crown Victoria Coupe: The Brown Blob
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    Quote Originally Posted by DerekTheGreat View Post
    But, that's just coming from me, this site's biggest pessimist. Best of luck

  5. #5
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    Quote Originally Posted by 87gtVIC View Post
    Amazingly some have forgone drilling and used wrenches to remove the three bolts. Now that is dedication to preserving the door.
    You are a glutton for punishment David. My hands & patience no longer work good enough to even think about doing that with wrenches lol.

  6. #6
    The Brown Blob 87gtVIC's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Mustang Eddie View Post
    You are a glutton for punishment David. My hands & patience no longer work good enough to even think about doing that with wrenches lol.
    Oh no was not me. Screw that.
    ~David~

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    Quote Originally Posted by DerekTheGreat View Post
    But, that's just coming from me, this site's biggest pessimist. Best of luck

  7. #7

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    Oh ok Iíll look for those dimples the next time Iím out there but hopefully I can get them without drilling.


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  8. #8
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    DRILL BABY DRILL!!

    The old girl needs a thrill!
    "X" car 89 Colony Park LS Mods>Engine delete, SS duals magnaflow hflow cats, 2010 Must GT mufflers, auto air shocks, Posi, Tran cooler, big front brakes, 03+ rear disks, Large 3g alt, Tripminder, GS grill, 86 seats, 16" HPP wheels, winter boots=96 Cartier wheels, 215-65/16 Goodyear ULTRA GW3 snows, pi rear sway, alum driveshaft.
    03 Marauder DBP, HS, 6disk, Organizer, Silver Stars, M&Z rear control arms, Oil deflector.
    02 SL500 Silver Arrow
    08 TC Signature Limited, HID's Mods>235/55-17 Z rated Cooper Zeon RS3-A, Addco 1" rear Sway, Posi, Compustar Remote Start, floor liners, trunk organizer, Winter=05 Mustang GT rims, Nokian Hakkapeliitta R-2 235/55-17

  9. #9
    2 decades of DDing Box Panthers, now in a Whale VicCrownVic's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by 87GrandMarq View Post
    Oh ok I’ll look for those dimples the next time I’m out there but hopefully I can get them without drilling.


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    It can be done without drilling, if you want to spend that much time. It's extremely frustrating to get the bolts back in. Lots of tape, magnets, Operation (the game) experience, some MacGyver like thinking, more cursing than the drill method, and more chance of blood sacrifice than the drill method.
    I only did the no-drill method once on my first window motor replacement a couple decades(ish) ago. I don't remember how many hours it took but I did get it.

    Don't tighten any of the bolts until they are all started. Try to tape the bolts in place before putting the motor in place might help, maybe tape on the end of the tiny wrench, tape wherever might be useful, and very skinny fingers are definitely helpful. Put a big magnet in the bottom of the door since you will drop a bolt many times.

    There wasn't one specific thing I remember working for the no-drill method, other than lots of time.

    The drill really is the best way and is the method in the service manual.

    Edit: just saw David's post. Based on experience, I highly don't recommend the no-drill method.
    Last edited by VicCrownVic; 01-05-2021 at 02:13 AM.
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  10. #10

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    Son and i drilled all four to rebuild the motors. I wouldnt even try no drill.

  11. #11

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    So I stepped up and drilled the dimples. They came out clean until I stepped up to the 1/2 but then they got jagged, oh well itís behind the door panel. I got the motor out and opened it up to find the bushings were completely gone, goop all over and the plastic gear broke. I had ordered only the bushings thinking that was the only problem, oh well. I ended up getting one of those kits by Dorman with the plastic and metal gears, bushings and lube. Itíll be here on Thursday.





    I didnít take a picture of the plastic gear but the part that the bushings go in are what broke not the gear itself. Itís hidden behind the small metal gear.


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  12. #12
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    After you do the bloody install. slap a little paint around the bare metal. Do a nice job with the door seal. It is worth it. It does not need to be pretty. you can get 1/2 plugs that look nice in those holes.
    "X" car 89 Colony Park LS Mods>Engine delete, SS duals magnaflow hflow cats, 2010 Must GT mufflers, auto air shocks, Posi, Tran cooler, big front brakes, 03+ rear disks, Large 3g alt, Tripminder, GS grill, 86 seats, 16" HPP wheels, winter boots=96 Cartier wheels, 215-65/16 Goodyear ULTRA GW3 snows, pi rear sway, alum driveshaft.
    03 Marauder DBP, HS, 6disk, Organizer, Silver Stars, M&Z rear control arms, Oil deflector.
    02 SL500 Silver Arrow
    08 TC Signature Limited, HID's Mods>235/55-17 Z rated Cooper Zeon RS3-A, Addco 1" rear Sway, Posi, Compustar Remote Start, floor liners, trunk organizer, Winter=05 Mustang GT rims, Nokian Hakkapeliitta R-2 235/55-17

  13. #13
    The Brown Blob 87gtVIC's Avatar
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    For future reference (not that you did anything wrong as I have done this hundreds of times before knowing) thinner sheet metal like this does not take kindly to drill bits. A step bit works out nicer. The flutes in the standard drill bit like to bit and suck your drill in and you get some flaring of the metal from that. A step bit on the other hand wont do that and leave you with a cleaner hole.

    New tools I see. They are not all scratched and dirtied up yet.
    ~David~

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    Quote Originally Posted by DerekTheGreat View Post
    But, that's just coming from me, this site's biggest pessimist. Best of luck

  14. #14
    I'm an air-conditioned gypsy gadget73's Avatar
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    was just gonna say step drill. It also de-burrs the metal so its not quite so slicey.

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  15. #15

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    Thanks for the advise guys. Iím going to at least put a little paint on the edges. Yeah I noticed when I used the 1/2Ē bit it started grabbing the metal and making jagged edges. Anything under that though was fine and it actually looked clean lol.

    As for the tools, they hardly get used. The driver is about 2 years old and the drill about a year. I work at Home Depot on the side so I see ryobi stuff all the time and like the cheap price. Itís good enough for me because I use them only a few times a year and try to keep them clean. I guess Iím a little old school but I like using hand tools. Power tools definitely helped with this project though.


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  16. #16
    The Brown Blob 87gtVIC's Avatar
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    Oh man. If I had any ties to Home Depot I would be in big trouble. I have no need for more tools but probably couldn’t help myself from all the temptation. Too many things to avoid buying. I have no room here for more!
    ~David~

    My 1987 Crown Victoria Coupe: The Brown Blob
    My 2004 Mercedes Benz E320:The Benz

    Quote Originally Posted by DerekTheGreat View Post
    But, that's just coming from me, this site's biggest pessimist. Best of luck

  17. #17

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    Youíre telling me lol. Sometimes I go in on my days off to go see coworkers, just an excuse to browse and buy tools lol.


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  18. #18

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    Got it all back together earlier, I forgot how much of a bitch it was to put the bushings in lol. I also sprayed down the track to stop the window from skipping when going down. Wd40 seems to have done the trick. I have the door card off for the moment to make sure everything is good and to fix it since the backing is broken in the middle. No pics sorry.


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  19. #19
    The Brown Blob 87gtVIC's Avatar
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    new bushings fit in very tight. I liked trying to get all three and the gear (that ride on the regulator teeth) in at the same time instead of installing the three bushings and trying to press the gear in place. The first time I did that I could not understand how the heck it is all supposed to fit.
    ~David~

    My 1987 Crown Victoria Coupe: The Brown Blob
    My 2004 Mercedes Benz E320:The Benz

    Quote Originally Posted by DerekTheGreat View Post
    But, that's just coming from me, this site's biggest pessimist. Best of luck

  20. #20

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    Yeah it was a struggle for sure and I didnít want to use any tools or else Iíd end up breaking something Iím sure. But then it just slid right in. Iím glad that Dorman still makes these kits for our cars, Iím going to stock up just in case though.


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