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Thread: How do you remove rusted screws? :(

  1. #1

    Default How do you remove rusted screws? :(

    Hey guys I figured I'd start a new topic for this, I'm trying to replace the headlights in the car, I got the low beams replaced no problem, but the high beam bulbs I can't get that stupid metal trim piece off, the screws are so rusted, I already tried lubricant, a power drill and of course old fashion screw driver. I haven't had success. So frustrating being in the salt states.

  2. #2
    Wagon Addicted Tiggie's Avatar
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    Try to shock them with a hammer. These are always very tight in my experience.
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    The Brown Blob 87gtVIC's Avatar
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    You took the headlight bezel off first? Will give you greater access to futz with it all. Grille does have to come off though first for the crown vics to do things safely though one may just loosen and gently bend grille out of way to sneak out headlight bezel.

    Once the headlight bezel is removed maybe you can get a dremel cut off wheel in there to cut a slot for a flat head to fit. Heat from dremel cutt off wheel will help loosen up things as well. If you can get two removed (two tops or two bottoms) you can bend the trim out of the way and slip out and in a new lamp.

    One tip...if using phillips or eventually flat head (if you cut a slot in it) use a screw driver that has a square shank somewhere on the shaft and slip a wrench over that. Put your body weight into the screwdriver onto the fastener and use the wrench to turn it.
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  4. #4
    fomoco panthers !
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    Try PB blaster. let it soak in for a little while. both sides if you can, I find it works very well. Agree with the others on their suggestions too.
    Last edited by Mainemantom; 02-02-2021 at 07:40 PM.

  5. #5
    I'm an air-conditioned gypsy gadget73's Avatar
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    Fire. Might do some collateral damage but the screw definitely loses in the end.

    if the head is already destroyed, drill the head off and then remove the entire headlight bucket so you can get the broken bit of screw out of the bucket in order to replace it. Do this as an absolute last case effort because its not going to be any fun at all.

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  6. #6
    P31 Pursuit Car Brown_Muscle's Avatar
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    They make a tool that has interchangeable phillips/flat heads in it, and you smack it with a hammer, as you smack it it twists. I've removed many stubborn screws that way, and it helps prevent stripping the head to
    -Phil



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  7. #7
    Hobbit
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    Take the lights off then let em soak in PB Blaster or something similar overnight. If you don't care about preserving the screw you can cut a slot in it with a dremel and use a flat head to get the screw out. Mini torch might also help but may cause damage to chrome. If it's roached beyond removal drill it out then tap and die.

  8. #8

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    Thanks for the suggestions guys, I'll try to shock the screws tomorrow with a hammer, I can't get the lights off, already tried removing the whole housing (the alignment screws) and those are just as rusted. If I could get the lights themselves out I would just smash the old ones until the bezel trim popped off cause I'm installing leds to replace these.
    Last edited by TwiztidRat; 02-03-2021 at 12:56 AM.

  9. #9
    I post a lot...
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    That tool is an impact hammer or impact driver the old fashioned kind.
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  10. #10
    Beater gonna beat sly's Avatar
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    manual impact driver. I have one in my pile. It's come in quite handy.

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  11. #11

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    Thanks for the help guys I got them out, just did the shock and awe method with a hammer and eventually got them to loosen.

  12. #12
    GMN Regular DerekTheGreat's Avatar
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    Once I discovered "percussive persuasion" I've never looked back.
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  13. #13
    I'm an air-conditioned gypsy gadget73's Avatar
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    I still like fire. If it doesn't remove the screw but turns the miserable thing into a lump of molten slag I still feel better about it.

    86 Lincoln Town Car (Galactica).
    5.0 HO, CompCams XE258,Scorpion 1.72 roller rockers, 3.55 K code rear, tow package, BHPerformance ported E7 heads, Tmoss Explorer intake, 65mm throttle body, Hedman 1 5/8" headers, 2.5" dual exhaust, ASP underdrive pulley

    91 Lincoln Mark VII LSC SE, triple black (Timewarp) - poly front bushings, KYB struts and shocks, Holley SystemMax1 lower intake, SilverFox AOD valve body,

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    Quote Originally Posted by phayzer5 View Post
    I drive a Lincoln. I can't be bothered to shift like the peasants and rabble rousers

  14. #14

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    Haha yeah fire will always win. If I had a torch I wouldíve used that iíll have to look into getting one of them pocket ones you can buy.

  15. #15
    Member tbear853's Avatar
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    I once found a set of screw extractors at HF, they have a tip that drills, then a fluted extractor like thread ... they use reverse so you just pick it size you need, each has two ends ... then chuck in the reversible drill, set drill to reverse and drill. When the tip drills the hole, the extractor threads engage and in my use, grab and back the fubar screw out.

    You'll need new screws but they are easy to find. Not HF, but these should work too. I looked but didn't see the set I bought online.

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  16. #16
    I'm an air-conditioned gypsy gadget73's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by TwiztidRat View Post
    Haha yeah fire will always win. If I had a torch I would’ve used that i’ll have to look into getting one of them pocket ones you can buy.
    I was thinking oxy-acetelyene. Might burn the car to the ground but there won't be a screw to worry about anymore.

    86 Lincoln Town Car (Galactica).
    5.0 HO, CompCams XE258,Scorpion 1.72 roller rockers, 3.55 K code rear, tow package, BHPerformance ported E7 heads, Tmoss Explorer intake, 65mm throttle body, Hedman 1 5/8" headers, 2.5" dual exhaust, ASP underdrive pulley

    91 Lincoln Mark VII LSC SE, triple black (Timewarp) - poly front bushings, KYB struts and shocks, Holley SystemMax1 lower intake, SilverFox AOD valve body,

    1984 Lincoln Continental TurboDiesel - rolls coal

    Quote Originally Posted by phayzer5 View Post
    I drive a Lincoln. I can't be bothered to shift like the peasants and rabble rousers

  17. #17

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    How about thermite plasma? Itís easy to make

  18. #18
    I'm an air-conditioned gypsy gadget73's Avatar
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    brilliant!

    86 Lincoln Town Car (Galactica).
    5.0 HO, CompCams XE258,Scorpion 1.72 roller rockers, 3.55 K code rear, tow package, BHPerformance ported E7 heads, Tmoss Explorer intake, 65mm throttle body, Hedman 1 5/8" headers, 2.5" dual exhaust, ASP underdrive pulley

    91 Lincoln Mark VII LSC SE, triple black (Timewarp) - poly front bushings, KYB struts and shocks, Holley SystemMax1 lower intake, SilverFox AOD valve body,

    1984 Lincoln Continental TurboDiesel - rolls coal

    Quote Originally Posted by phayzer5 View Post
    I drive a Lincoln. I can't be bothered to shift like the peasants and rabble rousers

  19. #19

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    Haha. So who here lives in the salt states? We finally got the fun negative billion degrees below zero. The poor mercury definitely hates it, drives pretty sluggish till it warms up but motor does start strong.

  20. #20
    Lost and driftin' Arquemann's Avatar
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    I might not be in the US, but we got cold, snow, roadsalt and rust here too.
    The Volvo has given me a handful of new issues due to the freezing temps, nothing unusual. There's a disctinct difference in every vehicle when they're frozen and when it's warm out. Every car feels way shittier when they're cold.

    Our government and traffic safety agency doesn't like rust, so rust repairs are a good business.
    For rusty nuts and bolts: heat and violence.
    1985 Mercury Grand Marquis LS
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