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Roller Cam Engine? Do I have one, how do I know?

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    #16
    87- cars have stand-alone cruise, the ECM has nothing to do with operating it. Just have to keep the VSS in the transmission so it works.

    I don't think you can do launch control since that usually involves a computer-driven throttle. Possible someone makes such a thing but gut feeling is that it won't be cheap unless you can adapt a throttle body from something else. I also suspect you'd have to change to an electronically-controlled transmission at that point since there would be nothing for the TV cable to hook to. Maybe someone makes a universal fly by wire thing that has a solenoid that can attach to any cable but I'm not completely sure I'd trust some cheap "one size fits all" solution like that.
    86 Lincoln Town Car (Galactica).
    5.0 HO, CompCams XE258,Scorpion 1.72 roller rockers, 3.55 K code rear, tow package, BHPerformance ported E7 heads, Tmoss Explorer intake, 65mm throttle body, Hedman 1 5/8" headers, 2.5" dual exhaust, ASP underdrive pulley

    91 Lincoln Mark VII LSC grandpa spec white and cranberry

    1984 Lincoln Continental TurboDiesel - rolls coal

    Originally posted by phayzer5
    I drive a Lincoln. I can't be bothered to shift like the peasants and rabble rousers

    Comment


      #17
      Originally posted by gadget73 View Post
      87- cars have stand-alone cruise, the ECM has nothing to do with operating it. Just have to keep the VSS in the transmission so it works.

      I don't think you can do launch control since that usually involves a computer-driven throttle. Possible someone makes such a thing but gut feeling is that it won't be cheap unless you can adapt a throttle body from something else. I also suspect you'd have to change to an electronically-controlled transmission at that point since there would be nothing for the TV cable to hook to. Maybe someone makes a universal fly by wire thing that has a solenoid that can attach to any cable but I'm not completely sure I'd trust some cheap "one size fits all" solution like that.
      Noted on the cruise control, that means the Holley unit will suit all my needs perfectly. I just need to make sure I can keep my AC, because it works and I'm spoiled to having that after years of cars with no AC...

      Ah, I'll have to look into it, but I'll take the L on it if it means I'd have to go drive by wire. Call me skeptical, but I just don't trust it.

      Comment


        #18
        You can definitely keep your A/C. most aftermarket units also allow for an A/C trigger to up the Idle. But even if it doesn't you can still run A/C, that system is standalone as well.

        You probably saw this but if you are just using an AOD and don't need the transmission control this unit is a few hundred dollars cheaper: https://www.holley.com/products/fuel...parts/550-937F
        Last edited by Brown_Muscle; 02-22-2021, 11:35 AM.
        -Phil

        sigpic

        +1982 Ford LTD-S Police Car. Built 351w, Trickflow 11R 190 Heads, Holley Sniper EFI, RPM Intake+ Hyperspark dizzy, WR-AOD, Full exhaust headers to tails. 3.27 Trac-Lok Rear. Aluminum Police Driveshaft. Speedway Springs+Bilstein Shocks, Intermediate Brakes, HPP Steering Box.

        +2003 Acura CL Type S 6-speed

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          #19
          The AC system has almost no connection to the computer. It has a wide open throttle cutout relay, but the ECM has to power it to cut compressor power. with no ECM, nothing will power it. Would be better if the Holley system could operate it though, the compressor really doesn't want to be spinning at a ton of RPM. There is also a connection from compressor to ECM so it knows to bump the idle when the AC is on.

          pre-computer cars usually did this with a vacuum switch. Manifold vac under a certain point and the compressor would drop. There was also usually a simple throttle kicker that pushed the lever open a bit more at idle. my turbodiesel car has one switch for manifold boost pressure and one for vac pump output. The boost one is to drop the AC under high load (boost) conditions, the other keeps the compressor from engaging until the engine is actually running. No computer so the controls are very primitive.

          Chevys kicked the AC compressor out using a switch on the transmission. If you kicked the trans down a gear, it would cut the AC.
          86 Lincoln Town Car (Galactica).
          5.0 HO, CompCams XE258,Scorpion 1.72 roller rockers, 3.55 K code rear, tow package, BHPerformance ported E7 heads, Tmoss Explorer intake, 65mm throttle body, Hedman 1 5/8" headers, 2.5" dual exhaust, ASP underdrive pulley

          91 Lincoln Mark VII LSC grandpa spec white and cranberry

          1984 Lincoln Continental TurboDiesel - rolls coal

          Originally posted by phayzer5
          I drive a Lincoln. I can't be bothered to shift like the peasants and rabble rousers

          Comment


            #20
            Originally posted by Brown_Muscle View Post
            You can definitely keep your A/C. most aftermarket units also allow for an A/C trigger to up the Idle. But even if it doesn't you can still run A/C, that system is standalone as well.

            You probably saw this but if you are just using an AOD and don't need the transmission control this unit is a few hundred dollars cheaper: https://www.holley.com/products/fuel...parts/550-937F
            I did happen to see that one, as I would keep the AOD, likely need to have it built to handle power and such, but keep it since I already have it after all.

            Originally posted by gadget73 View Post
            The AC system has almost no connection to the computer. It has a wide open throttle cutout relay, but the ECM has to power it to cut compressor power. with no ECM, nothing will power it. Would be better if the Holley system could operate it though, the compressor really doesn't want to be spinning at a ton of RPM. There is also a connection from compressor to ECM so it knows to bump the idle when the AC is on.

            pre-computer cars usually did this with a vacuum switch. Manifold vac under a certain point and the compressor would drop. There was also usually a simple throttle kicker that pushed the lever open a bit more at idle. my turbodiesel car has one switch for manifold boost pressure and one for vac pump output. The boost one is to drop the AC under high load (boost) conditions, the other keeps the compressor from engaging until the engine is actually running. No computer so the controls are very primitive.

            Chevys kicked the AC compressor out using a switch on the transmission. If you kicked the trans down a gear, it would cut the AC.
            Definitely interesting. I'll have to ask one of the Holley guys how that would work, or scour other forums. I'm willing to pay the extra to gain ease of use. Also, certainly going with AFR Renegade 165cc heads, because I found a really good deal on them.

            Comment


              #21
              Holly terminator, Haltech Elite, etc etc... can also do the WOT disable by setting a trigger (low side (ground) triggered) to the AC/WOT relay to activate when TPS is over X value. Then just wire that trigger to the ground side of the coil on the AC/WOT relay. A momentary switch could also be used that grounds the coil on the AC/WOT relay at the go pedal by mounting it to the bracket so it gets triggered when the pedal is on the floor (or at some point above that while not restricting the movement of the pedal).

              Only two things are infinite, the universe and human stupidity, and I'm not sure about the former. -- Albert Einstein
              rides: 93 Crown Vic LX (The Red Velvet Cake), 2000 Crown Vic base model (Sandy), 2003 Expedition (the vacation beast)
              Originally posted by gadget73
              ... and it should all work like magic and unicorns and stuff.
              Originally posted by dmccaig
              Overhead, some poor bastards are flying in airplanes.

              Comment


                #22
                Originally posted by sly View Post
                Holly terminator, Haltech Elite, etc etc... can also do the WOT disable by setting a trigger (low side (ground) triggered) to the AC/WOT relay to activate when TPS is over X value. Then just wire that trigger to the ground side of the coil on the AC/WOT relay. A momentary switch could also be used that grounds the coil on the AC/WOT relay at the go pedal by mounting it to the bracket so it gets triggered when the pedal is on the floor (or at some point above that while not restricting the movement of the pedal).
                Makes sense to me! Thank you Sly!

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