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Thread: 1990 Country Squire bought for 390 dollars.

  1. #21
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    Quote Originally Posted by Mainemantom View Post
    On the pre 79 back seat. I doubt it will fit. Pre 79s are wider.
    Got it. Nevertheless, the guy has a seat from a sedan, so it does not really help.

    Quote Originally Posted by Mainemantom View Post
    Regarding the title: The title is different from the shipping and customs documents. Title was given by the insurance company as salvage. At that time the car was whole. What happened after it was sold to the buyer is another story. When a vehicle arrives in a country it is taxed on that country's rules. When "parts" arrive. the tax can be much less. The title from the US may or may not be used to register the vehicle when it is put back together. It is possible that your car arrived as a whole car OR it came as parts. You may never know.
    Received and understood!

    Quote Originally Posted by Arquemann View Post
    Caprices and box panthers sold new in Finland are often easy to identify, ain't got shit for options: no power locks, crank windows, partial power seats, no AC, no cruise, but it's gotta be a wagon.
    As far as I am concerned, same for Poland, when it comes to eg. Geo Metro, or Dodge Neon. As basic as possible.

    Quote Originally Posted by Arquemann View Post
    That Caprice you linked, I've never seen such, so much ornamentation. Is that just due to... Catholicism?
    Rather keep up with the Joneses. But it's a part of the Polish version of Catholicism, which is... somewhat special.

    Best examples have 3 rows of seats, each a different color.
    Saw it in case of Volvos, but never in case of amcar hearses. Generally people assume they will use them as panel vans, or something like that. If it was a Mercedes, then getting a set of spare seats is not that difficult as in case of amcars.

    In the meantime!
    Found some ~30 minutes today to fiddle with the CV. Mechs did a nice job cutting all the screws etc. so I could take some of the hearse upholstery down. Managed to dismantle the coffin lift, and all the floor panels. The effect is as below:





    Also, inspected the backseat. Looks like the lower part is original, with new fabric, and that small "backrest" is actually the upper part of the original backrest. The white stuff all over the place is snow.



    I really love the SPARE letters on the spare tyre!

    Next session - on Sunday. I will try to get rid of the hearse fabric from door panels, and maybe dismantle the separator wall.

  2. #22
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    Another busy day!

    I started with seeking for the original sticker. It was in place, but heavily damaged. Can we still learn anything from it?


    The second step was to find the the original options sheet. It was in place, damaged, but not that much as in the Colon:


    Those thing were found by the way. Probably gonna keep 'em, they look quite decent.


    Another step was to dismantle the door mats and see if they are still ok, under the hearse upholstery. They are somewhat damaged, but salvageable, I guess... BTW: was the car white, and than repainted to burgundy and THEN to black, or this white-ish colour is the protective undercoat paint? The whole car is painted with that, as far as I have found.




    Now, it's time to say goodbye to the zombie apocalypse protector screen...


    And here we are! There were only two screws that kept it in place. The car looks far more clean now than it was when acquired.


    As most of the unused hearse stuff was already driven to the garage today, I decided to hide the spare parts in the underground compartment. There is still plenty of space inside.


    And two final photos from today. This is what I have at the moment. Hearse upholstery remains on pillars, tailgate cover, left cargo compartment doors, and left rear door mat. I am going to get rid of them during the next visit.



    Found an info how much coolant gas should be ingested. 1.5kg is quite a large amount, I think?


    A close-up of one of the scrapped tyres I got the car with. Probably around 20 years old!


    The plan for the nearest future is to get a working battery for the car, and find a replacement for the backseat. I friend of mine is running a small yard, and we are going to try a few beige seats from EU cars tomorrow. This is quite important as I need to have the rear seat complete with belts if I want to have the car registered for 5 passengers, not just 2.

  3. #23
    Wagon Addicted Tiggie's Avatar
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    Hmm. We really need to find you a seat back. I would think you can make one of of a sedan with a fair amount of custom work but having the real thing would certainly make life easier.

    Can't tell too much from your door sticker. I see that it was originally ordered for the Philadelphia, Pennsylvania district. 3.08 open rear axle ratio. The exterior color is on the part that's disappeared.

    As far as original color, the buildsheet has it if you can read it. Look at the top right above the box that says "seats". There is an H there and something else. EH or 2H would be the medium Cabernet (dark red/maroon). AH would be the pastel alabaster (light tan).
    1990 Country Squire - weekend cruiser, next project
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  4. #24
    The Brown Blob 87gtVIC's Avatar
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    With you finding the white color ever where I would say the car was white from birth. Factory did not add any protective sprays anywhere.
    ~David~

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    Quote Originally Posted by DerekTheGreat View Post
    But, that's just coming from me, this site's biggest pessimist. Best of luck

  5. #25
    Member of the Orb Alliance packman's Avatar
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    That one pic with your wagon cleared out makes it look as if you're getting ready to put out some serious decibels LOL

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    Quote Originally Posted by Tiggie View Post
    Hmm. We really need to find you a seat back. I would think you can make one of of a sedan with a fair amount of custom work but having the real thing would certainly make life easier.
    No matter how I do appreciate your kind offer of helping me, I am afraid that getting one from the US might not work at all at the moment. As far as I am concerned, the price for the shipping solely would be around 500 dollars, which is kinda high, I guess? The sedan one could be an idea, but panther sedans are even less popular in Europe.
    An idea we got with a friend is to search German offers, as he has a couple of friends there and someone could pick it up, and arrange sending (price would be around 100 dollars, I guess - getting the Lakeside reed organs from Leiden to Kraków was around that price). If only I were travelling to the Netherlands as I used to, that could also be an option.

    Quote Originally Posted by Tiggie View Post
    Can't tell too much from your door sticker. I see that it was originally ordered for the Philadelphia, Pennsylvania district. 3.08 open rear axle ratio. The exterior color is on the part that's disappeared.

    As far as original color, the buildsheet has it if you can read it. Look at the top right above the box that says "seats". There is an H there and something else. EH or 2H would be the medium Cabernet (dark red/maroon). AH would be the pastel alabaster (light tan).
    Thanks! I managed to scan the buildsheet today:

    I presume it is listed as AH - so pastel alabaster, like this: http://topclassiccarsforsale.com/for...-original.html ? That was certainly a beautiful car once. The interior steel panels, like that of the cargo compartment, are beige, so that would fit...


    Quote Originally Posted by 87gtVIC View Post
    With you finding the white color ever where I would say the car was white from birth. Factory did not add any protective sprays anywhere.
    Maybe the body went through a more extensive coating then? Placing a white underpaint, conserving, magenta colour, and then the final black one? Still looks weird to me...

    Quote Originally Posted by packman View Post
    That one pic with your wagon cleared out makes it look as if you're getting ready to put out some serious decibels LOL
    Well, that would be a solution to the backseat problem

    In the meantime, checked a couple of rear seats today. The ones from Passat and Volvo 850 do not fit well, they are too narrow, same for V40, BUT! The one from Lancia Lybra looks moreover the right size, and he just measured the last one, light beige, leather, from Volvo S60, and this one should be moreover the needed width. It is not a perfect one, but the price is around 10 dollars... so I can give it a try. As a temporary seat, it could be a good starter.
    Also, there are a few stretch towncars for parts, but their seats are expensive, and black. So they wouldn't look much better than the one from Volvo...

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    Wagon Addicted Tiggie's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by bnw View Post
    Thanks! I managed to scan the buildsheet today:

    I presume it is listed as AH - so pastel alabaster, like this: http://topclassiccarsforsale.com/for...-original.html ? That was certainly a beautiful car once. The interior steel panels, like that of the cargo compartment, are beige, so that would fit...
    I think so. The cargo area in both of mine are body color. So that buried cargo area is probably original exterior paint.
    1990 Country Squire - weekend cruiser, next project
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  8. #28
    2 decades of DDing Box Panthers, now in a Whale VicCrownVic's Avatar
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    +1, cargo area sports the original color.
    I really like that color combo on a wagon, but I'm also a bit partial since that's the color my '88 Country Squire was.
    Vic

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    ~ 1991 Mercury Grand Marquis LS "The Scab" - plenty of rot, summer DD
    ~ 1997 GMC Yukon - wannabe winter DD - returning sometime in the 2020s, I finally have an engine
    ~ 1991 Mercury Grand Marquis GS "The Ice Car" - Rotting Retired Winter DD
    ~ 1989 Mercury Grand Marquis GS - Rotting Retired DD
    Gone but not forgotten:
    ~ 1988 Country Squire ~ 1987 Ford Crown Vic

  9. #29
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    So, did a few things today, and the results are nice. I drove to my friends house today, and picked up the seats. He prepared two of them: chamois leather, beige, from a Lybra estate, and leather, light beige, from a Volvo S60. I decided to test them both. First, Lybra:






    Pros:
    -> good colour match;
    -> "baroque" style that moreover fits the CV;
    -> similar shape of headrests.

    Cons:
    -> different seat mounting points;
    -> large, black plastic covers of backrest mounting points;
    -> pre-installed belt sockets so I would need to find Lybra belts;
    -> a bit too narrow;
    -> does not fit the doors/floor well.

    Therefore, I decided to not unpack them at all, and test the S60 ones:









    Pros:
    -> seat nearly the same size, fits well;
    -> relatively good width;
    -> cover panels seem to fit surprisingly well with door armrests;
    -> they are from a sedan, so they operate in similar manner, eg. the seat remains in position, while the backrest is folded down.

    Cons:
    -> colour mismatch, beige is too light;
    -> different headrests;
    -> different style than the front seats.

    Nevertheless, I decided to go for them. Getting a proper replacement is not possible atm, and I want to do some progress on the car. I am thinking of doing a slight repaint of the seats, and maybe figuring out a different set of headrests, so they match the front seats. On the other hand, there is a number of CVs/MGMs with TC seats, so... Let's see.

    The next step is to fill the AC with R-gas, as it turned out to be hole-free. Also, the mechs are going to do the last inspection of the underbelly: if the car passes it, it will receive the protective coating, and the exhaust will be refitted soon. That + interior cleaning, painting, and seat installation + emblems should be enough to start the registration process.

  10. #30
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    Wagons never came with headrests on the rear seats. You should just do away with them. WagonMan
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  11. #31
    Wagon Addicted Tiggie's Avatar
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    Not too bad at all. Gotta do the best you can with what you have available. I say it looks better than I expected.
    1990 Country Squire - weekend cruiser, next project
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  12. #32
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    News incoming!

    First of all, the CV has now a working Airco. Sounds pretty cool. Pun intended.
    I went to see the car on Sunday, with a new battery, and a 2-gallon can of fuel... and took the car for the first ride outside the garage. Just to the other side of the road, where a car wash is. Here are a few photos right after getting it cleaned:




    It already started to look better, but the paint was quite matte, not gloss. So I left it to dry, and returned on Monday, with a lot of rags and liquid, black car wax. The first photo shows the wax applied, the second - polished.



    I also decided to do something with the missing crosshair. Got an MGM spare, without the lower stand, and wired it to the understructure of the beak. Tom and Pete have already prepared a nice set of hood and side ornaments, but it will take some time before they arrive, and I don't want anyone to think that the car is abandoned, or used as a parts one, so they can take something out of it.


    Then we went to examine the underside of the car. Here is the reason why there is another half a litre ATF missing. Could anyone point me out to the particular part that has to be replaced to prevent the leak?


    And the underside itself. It's not _that_ bad in general. There are a few dents, but it was soaked well in a rust-preventing mastics, so now it needs just to be reinforced a bit in the weak spots, and then re-coated again. But the point is, to drive to the tinsmith, one has to register the car. To do it, it has to have a complete, hole-less exhaust... so we will start with rebuilding the exhaust, and then the tinsmith will have to dismantle it. Sounds crazy... but hauling the car from the garage to the tinsmith and back costs more than dismantling the exhaust...









    The wheel arcs... is this silver belt over the arc original? It looks like it was made out of aluminium wire...



    The next visit is on Friday. I will install the roof rack, and put some US plates. The car should not be left on the original plates (as these were unregistered), but having it standing there without any plates is asking for a problem. So I got a nice, matching set from Montana. Never been there... maybe I should go there, someday? Who knows.

    BTW: does anyone remember the size of the screws used to install the rack? Would appreciate help, all the hardware stores are only working online, so I have to order screws in advance...

  13. #33
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    Montana has got to be just about the farthest thing from Poland, but entirely appropriate on your wagon. They call it the Big Sky Country. A vast, untamed frontier of endless plains and Rocky Mountains. There were long stretches when I last drove through where the only man-made object in sight was the road we were traveling on. For many years they didn't have a speed limit. If you ever were to visit, you'd probably want to see Glacier and Yellowstone National Parks. The whole American West is worth seeing, though. Experiencing it can explain quite a lot about our national character.

    I have the same leak on my trans. Don't know what the part's called, but I'm curious to find out. Doesn't seem like it would be a very difficult repair.

    That black paint seems to shine up nicely. Especially on a large car like yours. If it's single stage it might respond well to a little compound and polish.

  14. #34
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    Quote Originally Posted by bnw View Post
    Could anyone point me out to the particular part that has to be replaced to prevent the leak?
    Tail shaft / output shaft seal, you might even find one locally. AOD and C4 trans both use the same part IIRC. Probably even T5 and the later electronic versions of the AOD.
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    I second the tail shaft seal. Also called output shaft seal or extension housing seal. Grab the yoke and shake it up and down. A little movement is okay. A lot of movement means the bushing is bad and/or the yoke is worn. The bushing requires the tail shaft be removed to replace it. If it feels pretty tight, I'd try the seal only first. Seals are cheap and relatively easy to install yourself if you can get the car up in the air.
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  16. #36
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    The wheel arch trim is factory.

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  17. #37
    The Brown Blob 87gtVIC's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by sly View Post
    The wheel arch trim is factory.
    Well. Yes normally. In his case it does not look right. There appears to be no return/flange for the trim be held by.

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    But, that's just coming from me, this site's biggest pessimist. Best of luck

  18. #38
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    Quote Originally Posted by Lutrova View Post
    Montana has got to be just about the farthest thing from Poland, but entirely appropriate on your wagon. They call it the Big Sky Country. A vast, untamed frontier of endless plains and Rocky Mountains. There were long stretches when I last drove through where the only man-made object in sight was the road we were traveling on. For many years they didn't have a speed limit. If you ever were to visit, you'd probably want to see Glacier and Yellowstone National Parks. The whole American West is worth seeing, though. Experiencing it can explain quite a lot about our national character.
    Sounds like a place I could actually like. So far, I have been to NM, TX, and CA. Liked NM very much... but their cars come mostly with a single plate, and I wanted two, to fill both holes. The less are the cops attracted, the better. And there is plenty of them in the area; there is a large hospital, a mall, and an IRS building nearby, and they seem to check if people are masked up. The City Watch is also sniffing at anything that could end up with a 500 PLN fine
    I was also looking for WV plates, too - because of John Denver - but to no avail. Those MT plates look nice and they will make a fine accent on the CV, and later - on any car awaiting restoration in my shed.

    Quote Originally Posted by Lutrova View Post
    I have the same leak on my trans. Don't know what the part's called, but I'm curious to find out. Doesn't seem like it would be a very difficult repair.
    Quote Originally Posted by Arquemann View Post
    Tail shaft / output shaft seal, you might even find one locally. AOD and C4 trans both use the same part IIRC. Probably even T5 and the later electronic versions of the AOD.
    Quote Originally Posted by Tiggie View Post
    I second the tail shaft seal. Also called output shaft seal or extension housing seal. Grab the yoke and shake it up and down. A little movement is okay. A lot of movement means the bushing is bad and/or the yoke is worn. The bushing requires the tail shaft be removed to replace it. If it feels pretty tight, I'd try the seal only first. Seals are cheap and relatively easy to install yourself if you can get the car up in the air.
    Thank you! There is certainly too much movement. Is that the right part? https://midparts.com.pl/pl/p/AOD-AOD...SZEROKOSC/3471 - this is what the shop found for me, but I am worried that it seems to have mainly 3spd trannies listed...

    Quote Originally Posted by sly View Post
    The wheel arch trim is factory.
    Quote Originally Posted by 87gtVIC View Post
    Well. Yes normally. In his case it does not look right. There appears to be no return/flange for the trim be held by.
    To me it looks like a hand-made thing resembling the original arch trim. I was certain that it was original before I lifted the car and saw it from a short distance - there are places, where it does not fit the wheel arch very well, and it looks... bruised? I wonder what I can use to make another fake arch, for my MGM.

    The mech checked the holes in the roof, they are 6mm ones. I am going to order a pack of 6x20 and 6x30mm Allen bolts, one of them should do the trick. I expect the 30mm ones to be ok... but will see. The other question is the holes for the sunshades. I guess it's something basic, 1.5 or 2mm? Also, I need to figure out what can be placed in the hole that was left by the giant cross. A dragon dildo sounds tempting... but THAT would certainly attract all possible police forces

  19. #39
    fomoco panthers !
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    Just a few comments to help you .
    1. Replace the fuel filter. It looks pretty old. It is shown in the 3rd under body picture by the hoist arm. Make sure the new filter comes with new plastic clips. Old one could be reused but do so if only if you have to. Keep the old ones for emergency spares.
    2. The wheel edge molding in your picture is the stick on aftermarket plastic stuff. Not factory stainless with the inside lip with holes for the attaching screws.
    3. The center section of your front bumper could use a center molding with plate holder that was made for that spot. Occasionally a new one pops up for sale. The bumper face has to be taken off fro the bumper frame to install it properly.
    4. Just for Info. Two license plates are required in CA.Many people think it is cool to only display one. Many tickets have been written for just one. There are so many versions of CA plates available. I think TX requires two plates too.
    In your country do you have to display your country's plates, then below,above or to the side display other plates ? Those other plates can be expired or not registered to your vehicle ? Better be sure before displaying.

  20. #40
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    Quote Originally Posted by bnw View Post
    There is certainly too much movement. Is that the right part? https://midparts.com.pl/pl/p/AOD-AOD...SZEROKOSC/3471 - this is what the shop found for me, but I am worried that it seems to have mainly 3spd trannies listed...
    That looks like the bushing mentioned here. If it's true that there's "too much movement", you'll need that too. Installing it requires you to remove the trans rear housing (tail shaft housing) to press out the bushing.

    The seal looks about like this:

    It can be removed and installed with just the driveshaft removed.
    1985 Mercury Grand Marquis LS
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