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Cast Iron vs Aluminum Water Pumps

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    #16
    For what its worth ive been putting on GMB pumps (all the HD ones) and i havent had any problems...but they usually got replaced every 3-4 years when i did various things with the engine. Currently have a GMB aluminum
    -Phil

    sigpic

    +1982 Ford LTD-S Police Car. Built 351w, Trickflow 11R 190 Heads, Holley Sniper EFI, RPM Intake+ Hyperspark dizzy, WR-AOD, Full exhaust headers to tails. 3.27 Trac-Lok Rear. Aluminum Police Driveshaft. Speedway Springs+Bilstein Shocks, Intermediate Brakes, HPP Steering Box.

    +2003 Acura CL Type S 6-speed

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      #17
      Originally posted by Brown_Muscle View Post
      For what its worth ive been putting on GMB pumps (all the HD ones) and i havent had any problems...but they usually got replaced every 3-4 years when i did various things with the engine. Currently have a GMB aluminum
      That’s the brand I settled on. I’m going to go with their cast iron one. Googling resulted in mostly positive reviews.

      Time to place a rock auto order tomorrow! I also need valve cover gaskets and intake gaskets. I’ve had oil leaking from the back of the intake for awhile but coolant joined it before I put the car away for winter.


      Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

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        #18
        So I went down to the local NAPA and had a coffee and a BS session. One of the wise guys in there contacted Gates directly.
        After much discussion and a coffees worth of hold time, we decided on this pump.
        Bigger impeller and their police/taxi severe duty rating.
        Forgive the shaky hand picture. I was 5 coffees deep.

        Pulley Flange number
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        Box numbers
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        All FORD All The Time

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          #19
          I'm a bit late reporting here- my aluminum one loosened up somehow and started leaking at the back. I ordered the same Gates pump you did Clutch, and was pleasantly surprised that it was already painted....I re-painted it to match my engine of course.

          It appears the impeller is the exact same size as the aluminum one (3 5/8" for both, so smaller than that original HD pump). The overall internal design is different (as you can see from the pictures), however the aluminum ones impeller is deeper inside, aka the depth of the chamber is deeper than the HD one, and the HD one has a wider chamber... im not sure what all this means.
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          -Phil

          sigpic

          +1982 Ford LTD-S Police Car. Built 351w, Trickflow 11R 190 Heads, Holley Sniper EFI, RPM Intake+ Hyperspark dizzy, WR-AOD, Full exhaust headers to tails. 3.27 Trac-Lok Rear. Aluminum Police Driveshaft. Speedway Springs+Bilstein Shocks, Intermediate Brakes, HPP Steering Box.

          +2003 Acura CL Type S 6-speed

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            #20
            Is that ring behind the impeller blades actually part of the impeller? If so it should make it considerably stronger and ought to help it move more water since its not going to push anything up into the bearing cone area. If not part of the impeller, the relatively small clearance from blade to back ring should still move more water.

            With a centrifugal pump, you want the least amount of space between the impeller and the case to minimize water spilling off the sides the blades. Its not really a pressure pump but the more water that can get in the space between the housing and the impeller, the less it can actually move.
            86 Lincoln Town Car (Galactica).
            5.0 HO, CompCams XE258,Scorpion 1.72 roller rockers, 3.55 K code rear, tow package, BHPerformance ported E7 heads, Tmoss Explorer intake, 65mm throttle body, Hedman 1 5/8" headers, 2.5" dual exhaust, ASP underdrive pulley

            91 Lincoln Mark VII LSC grandpa spec white and cranberry

            1984 Lincoln Continental TurboDiesel - rolls coal

            Originally posted by phayzer5
            I drive a Lincoln. I can't be bothered to shift like the peasants and rabble rousers

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              #21
              When doing a water pump on a 302 or 351 w it is a good idea to remove front cover and replace timeing set. the cfi cars had nylon aluminumn gears and streacxhy single row chain. other reason to do so is the gasket on the timing cover to block is dried up from being 30 plus years old and will leak later if you dont chnage it. removing pump removes clamping to the timing gasket. usual leak will be oil or coolant on top of timing cover.

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                #22
                I just ordered the Gates 43050 cast-iron pump from RockAuto for $28. My 1989 Lincoln Town Car came with a cast iron pump even though all the online parts manuals say they only went up to 1988. I've had lots of trouble with coolant leaks at the timing cover to H2O pump seals over the years with the aluminum pumps, so I'm trying the cast-iron again. My theory is that with the Town Car/Grand Marquis/Crown Vic 2-belt system, and all those heavy accessories that bolt to the water pump studs may warp that little aluminum pump juuuuuust enough to cause a leak over time. Throwing on a new timing cover as well from Dorman, seems to be good quality. Be nice to drive Anabelle again after 3.5 years...
                Last edited by 89LincolnTWNcar; 11-26-2021, 10:06 PM.
                1989 Lincoln Town Car - "Anabelle" - Original block, .030 over with SpeedPro pistons, rods fitted with ARP hardware, FRPP +volume oil pump, GT-40 3bar heads, Crane 1.72 rockers, 89' Fox cam, 93' Cobra lower intake, Explorer upper and 65mm TB, 93' Lightning EGR spacer, K&N intake kit from a 4.0L Ranger, 19lb/hr injectors w/ 87 Mark VII ECM, cat/smog deletes, Big Brake conversion, 3.55 K-Code Trac-Lok/Disc brake rear axle, CVPI LCA's w/1" sway bar in rear, wagon front sway bar, BBK 2.5" off-road H-Pipe, Flowmaster super 40s, HPP wheels, 3G alternator w/LMR.com wiring kit, gear reduction starter conversion, Best 1/4 time: 16.0 @ 85mph.

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                  #23
                  had the aluminum one and the iron one new out of the box so took a few pics for comparison. Both are from Gates.

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                  1989 Lincoln Town Car - "Anabelle" - Original block, .030 over with SpeedPro pistons, rods fitted with ARP hardware, FRPP +volume oil pump, GT-40 3bar heads, Crane 1.72 rockers, 89' Fox cam, 93' Cobra lower intake, Explorer upper and 65mm TB, 93' Lightning EGR spacer, K&N intake kit from a 4.0L Ranger, 19lb/hr injectors w/ 87 Mark VII ECM, cat/smog deletes, Big Brake conversion, 3.55 K-Code Trac-Lok/Disc brake rear axle, CVPI LCA's w/1" sway bar in rear, wagon front sway bar, BBK 2.5" off-road H-Pipe, Flowmaster super 40s, HPP wheels, 3G alternator w/LMR.com wiring kit, gear reduction starter conversion, Best 1/4 time: 16.0 @ 85mph.

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                    #24
                    Seeing where the extra bolt holes are in the cast iron pump vs the cavities in the aluminum pump, looks ripe for extremely small surface area to seal to the cavity in the aluminum pumps.

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                      #25
                      Originally posted by GM_Guy View Post
                      Seeing where the extra bolt holes are in the cast iron pump vs the cavities in the aluminum pump, looks ripe for extremely small surface area to seal to the cavity in the aluminum pumps.
                      Holy crap... I didn't even see that before! I just noticed the extra bolt holes near those water jackets that always leaked on mine... I'm really looking forward to fixing those leaks once and for all... have to find those extra bolts in my parts bin
                      1989 Lincoln Town Car - "Anabelle" - Original block, .030 over with SpeedPro pistons, rods fitted with ARP hardware, FRPP +volume oil pump, GT-40 3bar heads, Crane 1.72 rockers, 89' Fox cam, 93' Cobra lower intake, Explorer upper and 65mm TB, 93' Lightning EGR spacer, K&N intake kit from a 4.0L Ranger, 19lb/hr injectors w/ 87 Mark VII ECM, cat/smog deletes, Big Brake conversion, 3.55 K-Code Trac-Lok/Disc brake rear axle, CVPI LCA's w/1" sway bar in rear, wagon front sway bar, BBK 2.5" off-road H-Pipe, Flowmaster super 40s, HPP wheels, 3G alternator w/LMR.com wiring kit, gear reduction starter conversion, Best 1/4 time: 16.0 @ 85mph.

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                        #26
                        i think its just a 5/16 or 3/8" bolt, nothing special. Doesn't need a stud or anything like that on the end of it.
                        86 Lincoln Town Car (Galactica).
                        5.0 HO, CompCams XE258,Scorpion 1.72 roller rockers, 3.55 K code rear, tow package, BHPerformance ported E7 heads, Tmoss Explorer intake, 65mm throttle body, Hedman 1 5/8" headers, 2.5" dual exhaust, ASP underdrive pulley

                        91 Lincoln Mark VII LSC grandpa spec white and cranberry

                        1984 Lincoln Continental TurboDiesel - rolls coal

                        Originally posted by phayzer5
                        I drive a Lincoln. I can't be bothered to shift like the peasants and rabble rousers

                        Comment

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