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locking nuts for upper control arms

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    locking nuts for upper control arms

    I plan on replacing the front control arm bushings on my '89 CV LX. Does anyone have a set of the locking nuts needed for the upper control arms? As I seem to have read, the originals are not re-usable.

    #2
    I have a few, but to be honest you’d probably do just as well ordering them from where I did: https://www.grainger.com/product/FAB...ock-Nut-29DU72
    -Phil

    sigpic

    +1982 Ford LTD-S Police Car. Built 351w, Trickflow 11R 190 Heads, Holley Sniper EFI, RPM Intake+ Hyperspark dizzy, WR-AOD, Full exhaust headers to tails. 3.27 Trac-Lok Rear. Aluminum Police Driveshaft. Speedway Springs+Bilstein Shocks, Intermediate Brakes, HPP Steering Box.

    +2003 Acura CL Type S 6-speed

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      #3
      I torqued them to spec and one actually came loose...so I'd use the locking nuts AND lock tite...
      -Phil

      sigpic

      +1982 Ford LTD-S Police Car. Built 351w, Trickflow 11R 190 Heads, Holley Sniper EFI, RPM Intake+ Hyperspark dizzy, WR-AOD, Full exhaust headers to tails. 3.27 Trac-Lok Rear. Aluminum Police Driveshaft. Speedway Springs+Bilstein Shocks, Intermediate Brakes, HPP Steering Box.

      +2003 Acura CL Type S 6-speed

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        #4
        I ended up using some jam nuts on a couple of the pinch nuts I got because they wouldn't hold.

        Only two things are infinite, the universe and human stupidity, and I'm not sure about the former. -- Albert Einstein
        rides: 93 Crown Vic LX (The Red Velvet Cake), 2000 Crown Vic base model (Sandy), 2003 Expedition (the vacation beast)
        Originally posted by gadget73
        ... and it should all work like magic and unicorns and stuff.
        Originally posted by dmccaig
        Overhead, some poor bastards are flying in airplanes.

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          #5
          Um.... isnt that a metric thread? M16x1.5 is dang close to 5/8-18 like within .005" on both diameter and pitch.

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            #6
            Would make sense for it to be metric, all of the other body and suspension hardware is. Wasn't something I considered at the time, the sticky on here I think specifies 5/8 fine.

            McMaster-Carr is my usual go-to for hardware. Also just seems to be better quality than the stuff I get from Grainger at work.

            I think I'm using 5/8 hardware on mine, McMaster sourced, and it hasn't come loose in the almost 15 years its been on there. When I re-used the original nuts they came loose almost immediately.
            86 Lincoln Town Car (Galactica).
            5.0 HO, CompCams XE258,Scorpion 1.72 roller rockers, 3.55 K code rear, tow package, BHPerformance ported E7 heads, Tmoss Explorer intake, 65mm throttle body, Hedman 1 5/8" headers, 2.5" dual exhaust, ASP underdrive pulley

            91 Lincoln Mark VII LSC grandpa spec white and cranberry

            1984 Lincoln Continental TurboDiesel - rolls coal

            Originally posted by phayzer5
            I drive a Lincoln. I can't be bothered to shift like the peasants and rabble rousers

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              #7
              Thanks for the info, fellas.

              I went ahead and ordered nuts from McMaster-Carr. Ordered body mount bolts, too.

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