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    Starter Solenoids

    I know this has been covered before but I couldnt find a definitive answer... I did a bunch of research online and couldnt find anything either.

    I got a brand new HD solenoid that easily sticks (have to hit it to get it to stop). Should I be looking at glow plug relays, or a made in china motorcraft one like SW7663. I just want to buy something quality that will last...not so worried about the price. I put the old one back on for now but its 40 years old.

    Thanks

    -Phil
    -Phil

    sigpic

    +1982 Ford LTD-S Police Car. Built 351w, Trickflow 11R 190 Heads, Holley Sniper EFI, RPM Intake+ Hyperspark dizzy, WR-AOD, Full exhaust headers to tails. 3.27 Trac-Lok Rear. Aluminum Police Driveshaft. Speedway Springs+Bilstein Shocks, Intermediate Brakes, HPP Steering Box.

    +2003 Acura CL Type S 6-speed

    #2
    The only real issue with the glow plug one is the lack of a flyback diode just in case anything funky happened. Given you're running a carbureted 351, that really might not be an issue if you're no longer using a feedback carburetor where more sensitive electronics might have been. One in theory could add a diode in-line to keep things okay, but I'd say give the the Motorcraft one a swing or see if you can get a NOS one.

    I've seen plenty of the fender mounted type solenoid come back through my workplace under warranty, usually getting fused stuck in the way you describe. It's considerably more common though in the cheaper ones, than say a Standard brand type which I see considerably less come back on. I'm not sure who's presently manufacturing the Motorcraft units though.


    My Cars:
    -1964 Comet 202 (116K Miles) - Long Term Project
    -1986 Dodge D-150 Royale SE (112K Miles) - Slowly Getting Put Back Together
    -1987 Grand Marquis Colony Park LS (325K Miles) - April 2017 + September 2019 POTM Winner
    -1997 Grand Marquis LS (240K Miles) - The Daily Workhorse & March 2015 + January 2019 POTM Winner

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      #3
      Not sure the glow plug relays will survive the current load of a starter. They're meant for constant duty at lower amps. Flyback diode is easy enough to fit externally if thats a concern.

      I kinda need one too, the one on my Towncar works when it feels like it. Doesn't stick (yet) but sometimes it just doesn't crank. Whack the thing and it goes. No idea what it is, I know I got it at some parts store but when and where, NFC at this point.

      one possibility, if you swap to the later style starter the relay does so little that you can use damn near anything. The solenoid lives on the starter, the relay only handles the current to pull it. The ones on the Conti and both of my 200k+ Mark VII's are original, they all use that style starter.
      86 Lincoln Town Car (Galactica).
      5.0 HO, CompCams XE258,Scorpion 1.72 roller rockers, 3.55 K code rear, tow package, BHPerformance ported E7 heads, Tmoss Explorer intake, 65mm throttle body, Hedman 1 5/8" headers, 2.5" dual exhaust, ASP underdrive pulley

      91 Lincoln Mark VII LSC grandpa spec white and cranberry

      1984 Lincoln Continental TurboDiesel - rolls coal

      Originally posted by phayzer5
      I drive a Lincoln. I can't be bothered to shift like the peasants and rabble rousers

      Comment


        #4
        In my opinion, Motorcraft is the best. NOS if possible. IF you get aftermarket buy the upper end of the brand, not the economy end.

        Comment


          #5
          Yes even Standard has a high and low line. I have always been happy with the high line.
          03 Marauder DPB, HS, 6disk, Organizer Mods> LED's in & Out, M&Z rear control arms, Oil deflector, U-Haul Trans Pan, Blue Fuzzy Dice
          02 SL500 Silver Arrow
          08 TC Signature Limited, HID's Mods>235/55-17 Z rated BFG G-Force Comp-2 A/S Plus, Addco 1" rear Sway, Posi Carrier, Compustar Remote Start, floor liners, trunk organizer, Two part Sun Visors, B&M Trans drain Plug, Winter=05 Mustang GT rims, Nokian Hakkapeliitta R-2 235/55-17
          12 Escape Limited V6 AWD, 225/65R17 Vredestein Quatrac Pro, Winter 235/70-16 Conti Viking Contact7 Mods>Beamtech LED headlight bulbs, Husky floor liners

          Comment


            #6
            Starting to really like Standard products myself, haven't been let down by them yet.
            1985 LTD Crown Victoria - SOLD
            1988 Town Car Signature - Current Party Barge

            Comment


              #7
              If the stuck snaking it usually works to get it to stop cranking . I too had trouble with cheaper brands and got a hovercraft

              Comment


                #8
                I wish i had a hovercraft,

                I ended up buying a NOS motorcraft unit. it's been good to me so far, and im keeping the original as a backup
                -Phil

                sigpic

                +1982 Ford LTD-S Police Car. Built 351w, Trickflow 11R 190 Heads, Holley Sniper EFI, RPM Intake+ Hyperspark dizzy, WR-AOD, Full exhaust headers to tails. 3.27 Trac-Lok Rear. Aluminum Police Driveshaft. Speedway Springs+Bilstein Shocks, Intermediate Brakes, HPP Steering Box.

                +2003 Acura CL Type S 6-speed

                Comment


                  #9
                  Yes keeping a backup with it's box in the trunk is very wise. I have two crap out on me, years ago. Glad I had the spare.

                  Comment


                    #10
                    if the car is eating solenoids, its usually a problem with the starter. Draws too much current and melts the contacts inside. Also usually only a problem on the pre-1990 chunky boy starters. Later ones carry very little current.
                    86 Lincoln Town Car (Galactica).
                    5.0 HO, CompCams XE258,Scorpion 1.72 roller rockers, 3.55 K code rear, tow package, BHPerformance ported E7 heads, Tmoss Explorer intake, 65mm throttle body, Hedman 1 5/8" headers, 2.5" dual exhaust, ASP underdrive pulley

                    91 Lincoln Mark VII LSC grandpa spec white and cranberry

                    1984 Lincoln Continental TurboDiesel - rolls coal

                    Originally posted by phayzer5
                    I drive a Lincoln. I can't be bothered to shift like the peasants and rabble rousers

                    Comment


                      #11
                      Originally posted by jaywish View Post
                      Yes even Standard has a high and low line. I have always been happy with the high line.
                      Is not the "T" the lower level Standard Solenoid and the part without the "T" the higher level? I prefer the Motorcraft part but will use the Standard in a pinch. Keeping at least one spare, in the trunk, is a great idea!
                      What I Own: 1993 Mercury Grand Marquis GS
                      What I Help Maintain: 1996 CV / 1988 CV / 1988 Tempo

                      Comment


                        #12
                        Yes T is the low line. I prefer motorcraft myself but Standard (not T line) has been good to me. No failures.
                        03 Marauder DPB, HS, 6disk, Organizer Mods> LED's in & Out, M&Z rear control arms, Oil deflector, U-Haul Trans Pan, Blue Fuzzy Dice
                        02 SL500 Silver Arrow
                        08 TC Signature Limited, HID's Mods>235/55-17 Z rated BFG G-Force Comp-2 A/S Plus, Addco 1" rear Sway, Posi Carrier, Compustar Remote Start, floor liners, trunk organizer, Two part Sun Visors, B&M Trans drain Plug, Winter=05 Mustang GT rims, Nokian Hakkapeliitta R-2 235/55-17
                        12 Escape Limited V6 AWD, 225/65R17 Vredestein Quatrac Pro, Winter 235/70-16 Conti Viking Contact7 Mods>Beamtech LED headlight bulbs, Husky floor liners

                        Comment

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