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Thread: Ultrasonic cleaning to restore the YH-409 HVAC sensor and park brake vacuum switch

  1. #1

    Default Ultrasonic cleaning to restore the YH-409 HVAC sensor and park brake vacuum switch

    Had read somewhere on this forum that these YH-409 HVAC sensors are fragile to take apart, with usually breaking. Someone mentioned ultrasonic celaning for there´s not much going on inside.

    Since I have access to a Bandelin ultrasonic cleaner I grabbed the bull by the horns and threw the sensor in.
    Removed the brass tube and vacuum harness. Before, during and after cleaning I wiggled the spring loaded diaphragm through the intake port with my pinky and tweezers and used light compressed air to blow things free/clean.

    Bench testing the sensor after the ultrasonic cleaning looks promising: When applying hot or cold with a heatgun/hair dryer the vacuum on the larger line modulates, depending on position of the lever
    In car test has to follow.
    My AC is not working so I´m not sure how accurate the "in car test" will be. Up to now I only had full cold and no heat. Pulling the clear vacuum hose off of the gold servo motor like in the stickys described, flipped the heat duct door and I got full heat. My goal is to get working heat and cold control with this cleaned sensor, without the need to change to a manual cable setup.
    AC service/rebuild is planned for future.

    Btw:
    Also restored the automatic park brake release vacuum switch that sits on the steering column with ultrasonic cleaning. Before the bath there was a vacuum leak and the slide lever inside was moving freely/easy. Lots of black/brown residue where the rubber seal rides inside was visible. After the cleanning the switch is 100% leak free. Had to apply a slight coat of silicone to the plastic for the rubber seal was sealing so tight you couldn´t even move the slider when vacuum was applied.

  2. #2
    fomoco panthers !
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    Was the size of ultrasonic cleaning machine like for large jewelry ? Did you use cleaning formula ? How long was the cleaning cycle ?
    That was good thinking to try it. Couldn't lose much if it failed.

  3. #3
    fomoco panthers !
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    Was the size of ultrasonic cleaning machine like for large jewelry ? Did you use cleaning formula ? How long was the cleaning cycle ?
    That was good thinking to try it. Couldn't lose much if it failed.

  4. #4
    I'm an air-conditioned gypsy gadget73's Avatar
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    Thanks for posting results. I had a feeling it might work, but not having a US cleaner or a bad sensor I had no way to prove that idea. Good news since those stupid things cannot be had anymore. Ultrasonic cleaners can be had for reasonable money so its potentially a good solution to the issue.

    86 Lincoln Town Car (Galactica).
    5.0 HO, CompCams XE258,Scorpion 1.72 roller rockers, 3.55 K code rear, tow package, BHPerformance ported E7 heads, Tmoss Explorer intake, 65mm throttle body, Hedman 1 5/8" headers, 2.5" dual exhaust, ASP underdrive pulley

    91 Lincoln Mark VII LSC SE, triple black (Timewarp) - poly front bushings, KYB struts and shocks, Holley SystemMax1 lower intake, SilverFox AOD valve body,

    1984 Lincoln Continental TurboDiesel - rolls coal

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    I drive a Lincoln. I can't be bothered to shift like the peasants and rabble rousers

  5. #5

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    Hi,

    I work as a dentist so I had acess to a Bandelin Sonorex RK102 Ultrasonic cleaner in our dental shop. I think it is what they use for large jewelry, too.
    As formula I just used the burr/drill disinfection that was already in there. Any detergent or soap or dishwasher or washing soda should work, too.
    The RK 102 cleaner has a heated bath that I had set to 50°C.
    I let it in there for at least 20 minutes, sometimes rocking the mesh tray to move the parts.

  6. #6

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    Well, here´s the in car result:

    the ATC still doesn´t work. Seems like the ultrasonic bath of the sensor didn´t work out. Too bad. It did work so well on the parking brake automatic release switch.
    I plan to install a scooter/lawnmower fuel line shutoff valve on a bracket that I attach the temp lever bowden cable and vacuum lines from the sensor to the golden vac motor. This will hopefully enable me to control how much vacuum the golden servo motor gets manually. I hate the only cold or hot mode with the servo plugged/unplugged.
    Last edited by Hillbillycat; 05-21-2021 at 07:40 AM.

  7. #7
    Beater gonna beat sly's Avatar
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    The bimetal spring inside the cabin sensor is the thing that usually breaks and causes stupidity there. Not sure how you would go about fixing that though.

    Only two things are infinite, the universe and human stupidity, and I'm not sure about the former. -- Albert Einstein
    rides: 93 Crown Vic LX (The Red Velvet Cake), 2000 Crown Vic base model (Sandy), 2003 Expedition (the vacation beast)
    Quote Originally Posted by gadget73
    ... and it should all work like magic and unicorns and stuff.
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    I’ve never had atc but I’d be interested to know how close that spring is to one on a choke cap for a carb. Just a thought.


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  9. #9
    Beater gonna beat sly's Avatar
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    Choke is a rather large ribbon while the one in the temp sensor is a rather thin wire.

    Only two things are infinite, the universe and human stupidity, and I'm not sure about the former. -- Albert Einstein
    rides: 93 Crown Vic LX (The Red Velvet Cake), 2000 Crown Vic base model (Sandy), 2003 Expedition (the vacation beast)
    Quote Originally Posted by gadget73
    ... and it should all work like magic and unicorns and stuff.
    Quote Originally Posted by dmccaig
    Overhead, some poor bastards are flying in airplanes.

  10. #10
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    Well then disregard my thought lol. But I wonder if someone could make a replacement wire like that. I don’t see why not.


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  11. #11
    Beater gonna beat sly's Avatar
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    The problem would be getting to it and installing it. I think it's spot welded to the base and the valve. It tends to break at the first bend between the valve and the center of the coil.

    Only two things are infinite, the universe and human stupidity, and I'm not sure about the former. -- Albert Einstein
    rides: 93 Crown Vic LX (The Red Velvet Cake), 2000 Crown Vic base model (Sandy), 2003 Expedition (the vacation beast)
    Quote Originally Posted by gadget73
    ... and it should all work like magic and unicorns and stuff.
    Quote Originally Posted by dmccaig
    Overhead, some poor bastards are flying in airplanes.

  12. #12
    I'm an air-conditioned gypsy gadget73's Avatar
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    I suppose it depends on the fail mode. The original one in my car would flip hot to cold randomly so I don't think it was a busted spring, but a wad of gak in the thing that caused it to not seal correctly.

    86 Lincoln Town Car (Galactica).
    5.0 HO, CompCams XE258,Scorpion 1.72 roller rockers, 3.55 K code rear, tow package, BHPerformance ported E7 heads, Tmoss Explorer intake, 65mm throttle body, Hedman 1 5/8" headers, 2.5" dual exhaust, ASP underdrive pulley

    91 Lincoln Mark VII LSC SE, triple black (Timewarp) - poly front bushings, KYB struts and shocks, Holley SystemMax1 lower intake, SilverFox AOD valve body,

    1984 Lincoln Continental TurboDiesel - rolls coal

    Quote Originally Posted by phayzer5 View Post
    I drive a Lincoln. I can't be bothered to shift like the peasants and rabble rousers

  13. #13
    fomoco panthers !
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    Hillbillycat, is this what you are looking for ? I have dealt with this seller. No problem.

    eBay item number:
    294171994002

  14. #14
    Carthago delenda est Lutrova's Avatar
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    If all of the parts that do the sensing and manipulating can be repaired and the only issue is putting everything back together, then maybe this is a problem some 3d printing can fix. We could design a new housing for the bi-metal and the vacuum valve, something that is more amenable to reassembly. I don't fully understand how the bi-metal and the temperature selection biasing manipulate the vacuum valve, but if the valve is bad there must be off the shelf options for replacing it. The only thing that sounds unobtainable is this bi-metal that's designed to move within standard climate control temps.

    Does anyone have pictures of what the insides of one of these things look like?

  15. #15
    I'm an air-conditioned gypsy gadget73's Avatar
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    I'd actually not mind coming up with an electronic solution to the problem. Even if that involves replacing the vac servo with a small electric thing that has a feedback sensor. Just wouldn't be using the more modern servo that breaks and requires removal of the dashboard to access.

    86 Lincoln Town Car (Galactica).
    5.0 HO, CompCams XE258,Scorpion 1.72 roller rockers, 3.55 K code rear, tow package, BHPerformance ported E7 heads, Tmoss Explorer intake, 65mm throttle body, Hedman 1 5/8" headers, 2.5" dual exhaust, ASP underdrive pulley

    91 Lincoln Mark VII LSC SE, triple black (Timewarp) - poly front bushings, KYB struts and shocks, Holley SystemMax1 lower intake, SilverFox AOD valve body,

    1984 Lincoln Continental TurboDiesel - rolls coal

    Quote Originally Posted by phayzer5 View Post
    I drive a Lincoln. I can't be bothered to shift like the peasants and rabble rousers

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    I’m hoping that within the next 10 years 3D printing will become the go to for obsolete parts for these cars. If they could be 3D printed in any material that would be even better so that leaves interior pieces for now.

    Gadget that would be a neat idea. If you could make a plug and play part you could make some money in the box panther community. Especially with the prices of boxes lately you would think they were in style lol.


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  17. #17
    I'm an air-conditioned gypsy gadget73's Avatar
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    thing is my idea of electronic controls was about 30 years out of date when box Panthers were current tech so I'm probably not the guy to figure it out unless you want 1955 Doc Brown's vacuum tube replacement of a burned out IC chip. Someone who speaks Arduino or whatever the current cool teeny computer things are could probably figure out a way to make it go though.

    86 Lincoln Town Car (Galactica).
    5.0 HO, CompCams XE258,Scorpion 1.72 roller rockers, 3.55 K code rear, tow package, BHPerformance ported E7 heads, Tmoss Explorer intake, 65mm throttle body, Hedman 1 5/8" headers, 2.5" dual exhaust, ASP underdrive pulley

    91 Lincoln Mark VII LSC SE, triple black (Timewarp) - poly front bushings, KYB struts and shocks, Holley SystemMax1 lower intake, SilverFox AOD valve body,

    1984 Lincoln Continental TurboDiesel - rolls coal

    Quote Originally Posted by phayzer5 View Post
    I drive a Lincoln. I can't be bothered to shift like the peasants and rabble rousers

  18. #18
    Beater gonna beat sly's Avatar
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    It could be done pretty easy with a PWM signal from an AT-Tiny with an LM34 temp sensor driving a servo to actuate a vacuum valve. The calibration of the programming to allow specific amount of vacuum through would be the trick. Single input. Single output. Self-contained little setup that would EASILY fit in the area the mechanical sensor takes up.

    Only two things are infinite, the universe and human stupidity, and I'm not sure about the former. -- Albert Einstein
    rides: 93 Crown Vic LX (The Red Velvet Cake), 2000 Crown Vic base model (Sandy), 2003 Expedition (the vacation beast)
    Quote Originally Posted by gadget73
    ... and it should all work like magic and unicorns and stuff.
    Quote Originally Posted by dmccaig
    Overhead, some poor bastards are flying in airplanes.

  19. #19
    I'm an air-conditioned gypsy gadget73's Avatar
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    I was thinking something even more involved, but something that could be combined with a 3d printed housing to end up with a package that drops into the original location, uses the original cable and vacuum connections, and simply needs key-on power run to it would be a lot more convenient to install.

    86 Lincoln Town Car (Galactica).
    5.0 HO, CompCams XE258,Scorpion 1.72 roller rockers, 3.55 K code rear, tow package, BHPerformance ported E7 heads, Tmoss Explorer intake, 65mm throttle body, Hedman 1 5/8" headers, 2.5" dual exhaust, ASP underdrive pulley

    91 Lincoln Mark VII LSC SE, triple black (Timewarp) - poly front bushings, KYB struts and shocks, Holley SystemMax1 lower intake, SilverFox AOD valve body,

    1984 Lincoln Continental TurboDiesel - rolls coal

    Quote Originally Posted by phayzer5 View Post
    I drive a Lincoln. I can't be bothered to shift like the peasants and rabble rousers

  20. #20
    Beater gonna beat sly's Avatar
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    ok... 2 inputs. Need a pot on the cable or a control swap to the later knobs with the electric temp knob.

    Only two things are infinite, the universe and human stupidity, and I'm not sure about the former. -- Albert Einstein
    rides: 93 Crown Vic LX (The Red Velvet Cake), 2000 Crown Vic base model (Sandy), 2003 Expedition (the vacation beast)
    Quote Originally Posted by gadget73
    ... and it should all work like magic and unicorns and stuff.
    Quote Originally Posted by dmccaig
    Overhead, some poor bastards are flying in airplanes.

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