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Broken off diverter check valve

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    Broken off diverter check valve

    While changing the rubber vacuum lines to silicone on my new 1984 TC I broke a check valve from the Thermactor diverter. The one that leads to the rear of the heads below the air cleaner. The check valve was badly corroded and some water dripped out when the rubber hose fitting broke off.

    I plugged the valve with putty epoxy metal and some JB Weld since it was blowing off exhaust fumes.
    Will this last or burn off too soon? My idea was to use it as a temporary remedy and unscrew the valve and maybe find a plug that fits the threading (not that easy in Germany if it´s not metric stuff)

    BTW:
    Got the car with disconnected smog system: seized airpump with no belt and welded up cats.
    Check valves, rubber hoses and diverter valve still in place, as well as the TAD and TAB solenoids. These are mandatory for correct EEC IV engine management, right? If so I´ll replace their rubber hoses with silicon, too.

    #2
    You can get smog plugs for the heads or use appropriate size bolts in the back of the heads and remove the crossover pipe altogether. I don’t see jb weld holding for long.


    Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

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      #3
      There's posts that say what the thread pitch is for the ports on the back of the heads (they are imperial), though you would need to run a thread chaser down it first to clean off the carbon buildup. The other option is to use ultra copper gasket maker and make a steel tab that bolts in where the crossover pipe does to cover the port. The surface is flat in that location. You could also cut the crossover pipe bolt-down heads off and use the back side (flat side) and bolt it back on with said gasket maker to seal it.

      The TAB/TAD solenoids are NOT required for proper running. The big solenoid of the three (EVR) is required for the EGR valve. If the smog pump is gone already, might as well remove all of that stuff and plug the ports on the back of the heads with one of the methods mentioned.

      The JB weld will hold as long as there's no flow through it. With no flow, there's not high temperatures in the area. It should only be about 120C or so and JB weld is rated to 260C for constant use.

      Only two things are infinite, the universe and human stupidity, and I'm not sure about the former. -- Albert Einstein
      rides: 93 Crown Vic LX (The Red Velvet Cake), 2000 Crown Vic base model (Sandy), 2003 Expedition (the vacation beast)
      Originally posted by gadget73
      ... and it should all work like magic and unicorns and stuff.
      Originally posted by dmccaig
      Overhead, some poor bastards are flying in airplanes.

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        #4
        I have an 84 motor sitting in the corner with that pipe/valve on it, in OK shape. Yours if you wanna pay shipping.

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