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My 1987 Mercury Grand Marquis

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    #76
    If we're talking about the '87, the IAC is on the driver's side towards the back of the intake.
    What I Own: 1993 Mercury Grand Marquis GS
    What I Help Maintain: 1996 CV / 1988 CV / 1988 Tempo

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      #77
      Originally posted by Tiggie View Post
      Sounds like the IAC valve may be not quite doing its job. Unplug it at warm idle. If the idle drops, it's working. If it stays the same, it's not.
      Thanks. This was the issue. I popped on the one from my CV's engine and it did like you said. When I unplugged it, the idle dropped and got bad unlike the one that was on there that had no change in idle. The IAC I pulled off the had an E7 date code so I'm guessing it was original. The car idles and rides so much smoother now. I actually drove it up to the Poconos this past weekend and back home. No issues at all (besides baking alive in the heat with no AC )

      One issue I still have is that the car sometimes randomly dies when I start it up and go to reverse out of a parking spot. After restarting, it runs fine. I'm thinking maybe the neutral safety switch going bad?

      '78 LTD | '87 Grand Marquis | '89 Crown Vic (RIP) | '91 Grand Marquis (RIP) | '94 Town Car (RIP) | '97 Town Car (RIP)

      Comment


        #78
        If you did not disconnect the battery when changing the IAC, try that first. The ECM may need to relearn idle.

        Only two things are infinite, the universe and human stupidity, and I'm not sure about the former. -- Albert Einstein
        rides: 93 Crown Vic LX (The Red Velvet Cake), 2000 Crown Vic base model (Sandy), 2003 Expedition (the vacation beast)
        Originally posted by gadget73
        ... and it should all work like magic and unicorns and stuff.
        Originally posted by dmccaig
        Overhead, some poor bastards are flying in airplanes.

        Comment


          #79
          Catching up to date...

          This thread is a bit behind on things done.

          Back in July I created a post asking about adding a transmission drain plug: http://www.grandmarq.net/vb/showthre...ion-drain-plug

          I ended up doing that about a week later. My outside of the transmission pan was so unbelievably dirty. I think it took longer to clean it off than it did to get it out. For the drain plug, I picked up the kind where the one bolt screws into the other. I help keep it from leaking, I secured the outer bolt with red loctite and then the inner one with blue loctite. It's been about two months now and seems to be holding up just fine. I have a sinking feeling though that it might start to leak the first time I pop the bolt out to drain it though.


          I also addressed the issue with the car randomly turning off mentioned earlier in this thread with a new ignition switch (didn't realize it was going on that long): http://www.grandmarq.net/vb/showthre...s-off-randomly

          Besides that, I ended up running Eastwood internal frame coating through as much of the frame and nooks and crannies as I could. I then POR15'd as much of the frame as I could with a brush. Currently looks pretty good down there. Hopefully it holds up. I have a bunch of fluid film I plan on spraying down there as well once it gets a bit further into Fall.

          I do have some body rust I'd like to address before it gets too cold. I have the matching (hopefully) paint to cover it, just curious on thoughts of removing the trim or just tape it and replace the fender/door at a later date with the ones from my CV.

          Here's the fender spot. Should I attempt to unscrew that fender trim or do you think it'll just strip out or never go back on right?


          Here's the corner light. That one I plan on taking out. I don't think it'll be too much of a PITA to get in/out.


          Door rot is a bit more interesting:


          I don't think I can get that aluminum trim off. There's actually not much metal at the bottom of the door behind it. It also looks like the previous owner bondo'd that bottom lip. I'm guessing for this one, I'll just have to tape the trim and sand and paint what I can see. It'll definitely continue to get worse but I'm not sure what else to do there.

          '78 LTD | '87 Grand Marquis | '89 Crown Vic (RIP) | '91 Grand Marquis (RIP) | '94 Town Car (RIP) | '97 Town Car (RIP)

          Comment


            #80
            Wheel well trim may be quite hard to remove. A SHIT TON of pressure needs to be put on the bit to prevent you from stripping out the heads. The factory self tappers stick up through the metal and just collect crap on them for 35+ years now. It can be done of course if you take your time. Clean out the backside of the lip and spray some rust penetrant from the back side. Id recommend taking the wheel off and having a nice fitting screwdriver that has a square or hex shank on it so you can not only twist the screw driver while holding a SHIT TON of pressure onto the fastener but use a properly fitting wrench on the shank of the screwdriver to help twist.

            The ditch light should not be a big deal.


            The door trim is simple. Two acorn nuts one at the front of the door and one at the rear. You can then try sliding the trim front or back but I have been able to just lightly pry up one side and it kinda just pops off of the plastic clips that will remain with the door skin. The plastic clips are quite stout and will not break. They rotate onto metal tits that are on the door.

            You decide if it is worth it.
            ~David~

            My 1987 Crown Victoria Coupe: The Brown Blob
            My 2004 Mercedes Benz E320:The Benz

            Originally posted by ootdega
            My life is a long series of "nevermind" and "I guess not."

            Originally posted by DerekTheGreat
            But, that's just coming from me, this site's biggest pessimist. Best of luck

            Originally posted by gadget73
            my car starts and it has AC. Yours doesn't start and it has no AC. Seems obvious to me.




            Comment


              #81
              I NEVER use penetrating oils where I am going to paint! WD-40 is very hard to remove completely! Use the proper tip screwdriver and the screws on the wheel trim should come off. WagonMan
              89 Colony Park
              90 Colony Park
              70 HEMI Daytona Convertible

              Comment


                #82
                Where’d you get the paint from? I have some rust spots that need to be addressed as well. I’ve used the same rattle can you used in the trunk but it doesn’t quite match the sun faded paint on my hood.

                Just out of curiousity, how come you didn’t go with an aftermarket deep pan? I have one sitting on a shelf ready to go.

                Comment


                  #83
                  double wrench the drain plug if you're worried about it. Big wrench to keep the non-removable part from moving, small wrench to pull the plug.
                  86 Lincoln Town Car (Galactica).
                  5.0 HO, CompCams XE258,Scorpion 1.72 roller rockers, 3.55 K code rear, tow package, BHPerformance ported E7 heads, Tmoss Explorer intake, 65mm throttle body, Hedman 1 5/8" headers, 2.5" dual exhaust, ASP underdrive pulley

                  91 Lincoln Mark VII LSC grandpa spec white and cranberry

                  1984 Lincoln Continental TurboDiesel - rolls coal

                  Originally posted by phayzer5
                  I drive a Lincoln. I can't be bothered to shift like the peasants and rabble rousers

                  Comment


                    #84
                    Rust always gets worse the longer you do nothing. Do something with it. Gotta get both moldings off. I've always been able to get the fender lip moldings off with a good Phillips bit in a ratchet. They are tight but they come out.
                    1990 Country Squire - weekend cruiser, next project
                    1988 Crown Vic LTD Wagon - waiting in the wings

                    GMN Box Panther History
                    Box Panther Horsepower and Torque Ratings
                    Box Panther Production Numbers

                    Comment


                      #85
                      If the car will continue to see rain/salt, I vote to leave it. Keep in mind that the level of "rust protection" offered by a coating is only as good as said coating's adhesion to the substrate. Nothing currently available will match the level of protection offered by the factory. Translation- you will see rot reemerge within four years or less. Start spraying the underside, inside doors/panels and wheel lips with Fluid Film or Krown T40.
                      Last edited by DerekTheGreat; 09-26-2022, 08:55 AM.
                      1985 LTD Crown Victoria - SOLD
                      1988 Town Car Signature - Current Party Barge

                      Comment


                        #86
                        The car sees rain but doesn't see salt. I stop driving the this car and the LTD once the first snowfall happens.

                        Thanks for all the tips on getting the molding off. I did a half-ass attempt at getting the wheel molding off just to see if there was any hope there. Well, one screw turned. The rest didn't want to budge. I'm hoping this weekend I'll have some time to actually take the wheel off and try to get in there with a good bit at the right angle.


                        Originally posted by gadget73 View Post
                        double wrench the drain plug if you're worried about it. Big wrench to keep the non-removable part from moving, small wrench to pull the plug.
                        Thanks. I'll be sure to give that a try when the time comes.

                        Originally posted by 87GrandMarq View Post
                        Where’d you get the paint from? I have some rust spots that need to be addressed as well. I’ve used the same rattle can you used in the trunk but it doesn’t quite match the sun faded paint on my hood.

                        Just out of curiousity, how come you didn’t go with an aftermarket deep pan? I have one sitting on a shelf ready to go.
                        I got a few cans from Automotive Touchup. I've had okay luck with them in the past. I used them to paint the hood and header panel of my CV and the header panel of the LTD. The paint match isn't 100% but it's close enough for a beater/daily driver I suppose. It would probably match better without the paint fade from age and sun.

                        I did some test areas to see how it would match up. I sprayed over some POR15 spots to see if it would actually stick to it or not.

                        Door hinge area before with some POR15 slapped on the week before for testing over:


                        After: You can see how the new paint is a bit darker. This spot didn't come out great and I over sprayed on the rubber. (Did the same on the driver's side.. that's what I get for trying to rush things during a lunch break)


                        Driver's side door bottom. This whole bottom section from the door lock actuator nut down was black POR15. This side looked much better. Maybe because by then I had shaken the can some more?


                        Driver's side hinge:


                        I sprayed the first lip section here on the left :


                        This spot also had some POR15 on the whole section from the molding to the filler. still needs to be sanded down and redone and stuff but I wanted to see a spot on the outside of the car that wasn't too obvious:




                        Then some trunk spots: Again, you can see a little bit where the new paint is a bit darker


                        Though this spot blended in almost perfect (the horizontal "o"s in the middle)


                        All in all, I think it's good enough to go forward with these colors for my touch up spots. It won't be perfect but it will hopefully look a little bit better than it did. One thing I'm not crazy about is the paint seems super thin and runny so you have to be really careful not to be too heavy. I don't remember that from previous orders. Maybe it was and I just don't remember though.

                        '78 LTD | '87 Grand Marquis | '89 Crown Vic (RIP) | '91 Grand Marquis (RIP) | '94 Town Car (RIP) | '97 Town Car (RIP)

                        Comment


                          #87
                          Using some gray primer on scuffed up por 15 may help you with the coverage of the runny paint. Black is tough to cover up with any color other than black.

                          I think it will work out well for you. Color looks nice and close.
                          ~David~

                          My 1987 Crown Victoria Coupe: The Brown Blob
                          My 2004 Mercedes Benz E320:The Benz

                          Originally posted by ootdega
                          My life is a long series of "nevermind" and "I guess not."

                          Originally posted by DerekTheGreat
                          But, that's just coming from me, this site's biggest pessimist. Best of luck

                          Originally posted by gadget73
                          my car starts and it has AC. Yours doesn't start and it has no AC. Seems obvious to me.




                          Comment


                            #88
                            I could swear I've seen tan primer before. Might work as an intermediate.
                            86 Lincoln Town Car (Galactica).
                            5.0 HO, CompCams XE258,Scorpion 1.72 roller rockers, 3.55 K code rear, tow package, BHPerformance ported E7 heads, Tmoss Explorer intake, 65mm throttle body, Hedman 1 5/8" headers, 2.5" dual exhaust, ASP underdrive pulley

                            91 Lincoln Mark VII LSC grandpa spec white and cranberry

                            1984 Lincoln Continental TurboDiesel - rolls coal

                            Originally posted by phayzer5
                            I drive a Lincoln. I can't be bothered to shift like the peasants and rabble rousers

                            Comment


                              #89
                              SEM makes various colors, high build in white, beige, black, gray, rose; https://www.autobodytoolmart.com/pro...-primer-sealer
                              https://www.amazon.com/SEM-High-Buil...073T7KXGV?th=1

                              https://www.duplicolor.com/product/sandable-primer/
                              Last edited by GM_Guy; 10-02-2022, 08:58 AM.

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