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Thread: 1985 Engine Camshaft help

  1. #21
    GMN Regular DerekTheGreat's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Arquemann View Post
    ...Since you are on CFI you don't have to worry about injector firing order as the cfi injectors shoot fuel all the time...
    The firing order is determined by the camshaft, so pretty sure you can't just swap the plug wires around.
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  2. #22
    Lost and driftin' Arquemann's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by DerekTheGreat View Post
    The firing order is determined by the camshaft, so pretty sure you can't just swap the plug wires around.
    This thread is about swapping camshafts, so if he were to swap in a cam with the HO firing order, he would only need to swap the plug wires. Yeah?

    And the bit you quoted about the fuel injectors was a positive note since the CFI dual injectors most likely don't have a "per cylinder" activation and the injector timing has probably nothing to do with cam/crank position, bacause that would be dumb. Like a carb, CFI pisses fuel far from the finish line and it doesn't care which cylinder it goes into.

    If you were to put a "standard" firing order cam into an HO motor and switch the plug wires and not do anything to the injector firing order, it would probably run like shit.
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  3. #23
    Wagon Addicted Tiggie's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by sluggish91 View Post
    I really thought that I could just get a hydraulic flat tappet cam with a bit more RPM range and a little bit more performance and just toss it in, measure PTV, measure for pushrods, break it in, maybe play with the injector duty cycle and spark table and call it a day.
    I think I'd do just that and see what happens. Might want to check into the tuning. Don't know that anyone has ever tried to tune a CFI. You are one the forefront of CFI performance!
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  4. #24
    I'm an air-conditioned gypsy gadget73's Avatar
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    Yes you can stick a bigger flat cam in, the roller lifter swap is more of a durability thing. Modern oils don't play so nice with flat cams, and I've heard of people that have lots of experience with flat cams having problems wiping out lifters. They claim its the lifters aren't made right, I don't know, only that I despise doing things multiple times. For me, if the choice was stick a cam in and maybe it works and keeps going forever or drill 2 holes and install some used parts that I can get for very cheap and have a cam that i know is going to work forever, I'm doing that second thing. If you can't find someone with a junk roller 302 laying around that will sell you the dogbones, hold down, and stock pushrods for almost nothing I'd be amazed. At that point its just the same cam and lifter set you were gonna buy anyway so the cost is very similar.


    The plug wires change if the firing order changes. Depends what cam you go with. Not a big issue, the ECM doesn't know or care about this at all.

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    Quote Originally Posted by phayzer5 View Post
    I drive a Lincoln. I can't be bothered to shift like the peasants and rabble rousers

  5. #25
    Member sluggish91's Avatar
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    I found the dogbones and lifter spyder on a Mustang forum for $10 over the holiday weekend. A great score, I'd say.

    And I completely forgot I had a 95 Cobra cam put away behind of all my engine stuff.

    Maybe I will do the cobra cam and the hydraulic roller conversion.

    I already have a set of hydraulic roller lifters from some old projects.

    This would leave only the pushrods to account for, which I could more than likely source from the junk or from a friend.

    I will keep everyone posted on my decisions and/or results. Wish me luck.
    1985 2-Door
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  6. #26
    I'm an air-conditioned gypsy gadget73's Avatar
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    Good luck. I don't have a complete set or I'd offer them up. If you end up a couple short I can probably cover you but I don't know how many I have left. Some were bent, I think 2 I cut up for something, and a few have been re-purposed for other things.

    86 Lincoln Town Car (Galactica).
    5.0 HO, CompCams XE258,Scorpion 1.72 roller rockers, 3.55 K code rear, tow package, BHPerformance ported E7 heads, Tmoss Explorer intake, 65mm throttle body, Hedman 1 5/8" headers, 2.5" dual exhaust, ASP underdrive pulley

    91 Lincoln Mark VII LSC SE, triple black (Timewarp) - poly front bushings, KYB struts and shocks, Holley SystemMax1 lower intake, SilverFox AOD valve body,

    1984 Lincoln Continental TurboDiesel - rolls coal

    Quote Originally Posted by phayzer5 View Post
    I drive a Lincoln. I can't be bothered to shift like the peasants and rabble rousers

  7. #27
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    stock replacement length non hardened pushrods are are so cheap, i wouldn't even consider scrounging round a JY for them... the most expensive option on rockauto is $2.69/pc

  8. #28
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    Don’t waste your time with a “Cobra” cam, they are one of the goofiest cams in the FoMoCo line-up. The same cam was installed in certain year T-Birds/Cougars(starting in ‘92, I think), this cam was designed to scrub low-end torque to reduce the chances of drivetrain warranty claims. It has less overlap than a base 5.0 roller cam, goofy cam timing and a seriously wide LSA of 118.25*…no bueno. Even the HO cam feels lazy under 2500-3000rpm with its 115.5* LSA…the base 5.0 roller? Has an LSA of 107.5*, making it feel punchy as hell down low and right off idle, it just suffers from not enough lift and duration.

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