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Thread: My 1983 Continental Mark VI!

  1. #281
    What a Luxury car should be. mercurygm88's Avatar
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    Three or four of the bulbs including the high beam indicator in the instrument cluster of the Mark VI have been burnt out since I got it. So yesterday I decided to replace them, 9 #194 bulbs in the cluster and one behind the antenna switch to illuminate the word "Antenna." The worst part was disconnecting and connecting the speedometer cable since I could barely get my big hand behind the cluster. I even managed not to break the gear indicator cable, it's been a little bit off since I bought the car but I couldn't get far enough in there to mess with it so it can stay that way.

    It's nice to be able to see the speedometer at night now.

  2. #282
    I'm an air-conditioned gypsy gadget73's Avatar
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    I used warm white LED on mine. Stock color but a little brighter.

    and yeah the speedo cable is a bastard.

    86 Lincoln Town Car (Galactica).
    5.0 HO, CompCams XE258,Scorpion 1.72 roller rockers, 3.55 K code rear, tow package, BHPerformance ported E7 heads, Tmoss Explorer intake, 65mm throttle body, Hedman 1 5/8" headers, 2.5" dual exhaust, ASP underdrive pulley

    91 Lincoln Mark VII LSC SE, triple black (Timewarp) - poly front bushings, KYB struts and shocks, Holley SystemMax1 lower intake, SilverFox AOD valve body,

    1984 Lincoln Continental TurboDiesel - rolls coal

    Quote Originally Posted by phayzer5 View Post
    I drive a Lincoln. I can't be bothered to shift like the peasants and rabble rousers

  3. #283
    What a Luxury car should be. mercurygm88's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by gadget73 View Post
    I used warm white LED on mine. Stock color but a little brighter.

    and yeah the speedo cable is a bastard.
    Yeah I noticed they still aren't terribly bright but at least I can see what's going on now.

  4. #284

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    My gear indicator was off on my 88 when I got it, because its holder onto the column was broken, it's a round C shaped plastic piece with two tabs through which a fastener secures the holder to the column, however one of the tabs had broken. I think the previous owner had put rubber bands on the holder to hold it to the column but it had slipped. I first tried KwikWelding at the break but that didn't hold up. What worked was putting a hose clamp around the holder, it's still working to this day.

    The holder rotates around the column to calibrate the indicator.

  5. #285
    2 decades of DDing Box Panthers, now in a Whale VicCrownVic's Avatar
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    This makes me wonder. For those who are into 3D printing, could this collar for the shift indicator be 3D printed? Sly or anyone else into 3D printing.
    Vic

    ~ 1998 Mercury Grand Marquis LS - new DD
    ~ 1991 Mercury Grand Marquis LS "The Scab" - plenty of rot, backup/summer cruiser
    ~ 1997 GMC Yukon SLT - wannabe winter DD - many issues, returning sometime in the 2020s
    ~ 1991 Mercury Grand Marquis GS "The Ice Car" - Rotting Retired Winter DD
    ~ 1989 Mercury Grand Marquis GS - Rotting Retired DD
    Gone but not forgotten:
    ~ 1988 Country Squire ~ 1987 Ford Crown Vic

  6. #286
    I'm an air-conditioned gypsy gadget73's Avatar
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    don't see why it couldn't be. the trick would be dealing with the cable. Its pretty much molded into the stock part, so you'd have to get it apart or come up with an alternative cable. Ideally a 3 piece arrangement could be made, a cable, the column clamp, and the appropriate end for whatever cluster you have. They're all different of course. Need examples of Ford, Mercury, and both digital and analog Lincoln pieces to model. Another part that would be good to print is the little hook that the cable attaches to on the column end. Those get brittle and its not at all hard to snap them trying to mess with that cable.

    86 Lincoln Town Car (Galactica).
    5.0 HO, CompCams XE258,Scorpion 1.72 roller rockers, 3.55 K code rear, tow package, BHPerformance ported E7 heads, Tmoss Explorer intake, 65mm throttle body, Hedman 1 5/8" headers, 2.5" dual exhaust, ASP underdrive pulley

    91 Lincoln Mark VII LSC SE, triple black (Timewarp) - poly front bushings, KYB struts and shocks, Holley SystemMax1 lower intake, SilverFox AOD valve body,

    1984 Lincoln Continental TurboDiesel - rolls coal

    Quote Originally Posted by phayzer5 View Post
    I drive a Lincoln. I can't be bothered to shift like the peasants and rabble rousers

  7. #287
    What a Luxury car should be. mercurygm88's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by VicCrownVic View Post
    This makes me wonder. For those who are into 3D printing, could this collar for the shift indicator be 3D printed? Sly or anyone else into 3D printing.
    Quote Originally Posted by gadget73 View Post
    don't see why it couldn't be. the trick would be dealing with the cable. Its pretty much molded into the stock part, so you'd have to get it apart or come up with an alternative cable. Ideally a 3 piece arrangement could be made, a cable, the column clamp, and the appropriate end for whatever cluster you have. They're all different of course. Need examples of Ford, Mercury, and both digital and analog Lincoln pieces to model. Another part that would be good to print is the little hook that the cable attaches to on the column end. Those get brittle and its not at all hard to snap them trying to mess with that cable.
    Yeah I'm sure they could be printed if someone who does CAD/CAM had an example of each part to get measurements from to make a 3D model. I have two 3D printers but don't design anything beyond the most basic of designs, that stuff is way beyond my ability or interest. My dad is a CAD/CAM engineer, he's tried to get me into it but it's just vastly more mental work than I want or need to deal with. That's a big part of why I got out of CNC machining it was easy work physically but after 4 years the emotional/mental stress was just too much.

    My shift indicator is only off by a small amount, maybe 1/8". Even if it was completely broken I don't know that I want to deal with trying to get in there to fix it. I can easily figure out what gear I'm in, I had the cluster out as far as I could get it without breaking the cable and still didn't have access to where the cable meets the column. I know Gabegt90 and I had the cluster out of my '88 MGM at ScottFest 2011 but I didn't feel comfortable tearing that far into the dash/steering column by myself.

  8. #288

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    I got to the collar from below, take out the lower dash covers and look up. I'm still a young'un so it wasn't too painful to fit a hose clamp over the original collar. I honestly don't see why a hose clamp couldn't completely sub for the collar.

  9. #289
    fomoco panthers !
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    I have done a few through the years. Not very hard. Hose clamp will work however I choose to just replace it with a nos Ford part.
    E0LY7E363A Ebay has a few listed now.

  10. #290
    Still Wrenchin'! friskyfrankie's Avatar
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    I seem to remember "fixing" one on a friend's '88 CV years ago. The "repair" included zip ties, praying and several phrases not normally heard during Sunday School!

  11. #291
    What a Luxury car should be. mercurygm88's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by friskyfrankie View Post
    I seem to remember "fixing" one on a friend's '88 CV years ago. The "repair" included zip ties, praying and several phrases not normally heard during Sunday School!
    That sounds about right.

  12. #292
    What a Luxury car should be. mercurygm88's Avatar
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    Has anyone here ever successfully removed rear seat belt bolts? Some previous owner removed the back of the rear seat by pulling on it until the hooks that hold it in place bent. I’d like to remove the seat back, bend the tabs back, and properly reinstall the seat back.

    I have a nice Ingersoll-Rand 1/2” air impact from back when they were American made, but I am currently without an air compressor. I even have impact torx bits. I tried a breaker bar and couldn’t get them to budge, then again the breaker bar puts you in an awkward position to get any leverage.

    This is one of the last two small projects I’d like to take care of on the car before I consider it “good enough” for myself.

  13. #293
    Carthago delenda est Lutrova's Avatar
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    I removed mine by hand with an L-shaped torx wrench, but it was tough going even on a rust-free car. As you've found, the angle and the geometry of the floor there doesn't make it very easy. But the threads can't be too deep and you can get at both sides if you get under the car, so there should be room to get some WD-40 or some heat directed at the problem if necessary.

  14. #294
    Wagon Addicted Tiggie's Avatar
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    I tried doing them by hand (as I have always done with every other seatbelt, ever). No dice. Broke the bit.

    Tried my air impact and my dad's that has never let him down on anything. No dice. Broke another bit.

    Got it red with a torch, repeated above. Nothing. I thought I was sunk.

    Had a friend with a 1/2" cordless impact from his work. Don't recall the brand or the specs. With a long impact torx bit, they came right out.
    1990 Country Squire - weekend cruiser, next project
    1988 Crown Vic LTD Wagon - waiting in the wings

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  15. #295
    I'm an air-conditioned gypsy gadget73's Avatar
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    Spray the bolts from underneath first. Can't hurt.

    but yes I've done it, and I've also broken bits. Its a bitch, I suggest good bits and an impact along with a reserve of good swear words.

    86 Lincoln Town Car (Galactica).
    5.0 HO, CompCams XE258,Scorpion 1.72 roller rockers, 3.55 K code rear, tow package, BHPerformance ported E7 heads, Tmoss Explorer intake, 65mm throttle body, Hedman 1 5/8" headers, 2.5" dual exhaust, ASP underdrive pulley

    91 Lincoln Mark VII LSC SE, triple black (Timewarp) - poly front bushings, KYB struts and shocks, Holley SystemMax1 lower intake, SilverFox AOD valve body,

    1984 Lincoln Continental TurboDiesel - rolls coal

    Quote Originally Posted by phayzer5 View Post
    I drive a Lincoln. I can't be bothered to shift like the peasants and rabble rousers

  16. #296
    Beater gonna beat sly's Avatar
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    I use a half inch breaker bar and I've twisted some bits, but never managed to break any. I was using solid impact bits though. I have broken the impact swivel joints on that job though. My corded electric 1/2 impact couldn't get it out without the breaker bar to get it started. But then the impact made out ok. That was the first time. Each time since I've only needed a 3/8 ratchet.

    Only two things are infinite, the universe and human stupidity, and I'm not sure about the former. -- Albert Einstein
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  17. #297
    GMN Regular DerekTheGreat's Avatar
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    I think I've done this on a GM car or Ford truck at some point. I put the correct size bit in on an extension that I didn't care about and then beat the shit out of that extension with a 3lb or 5lb hammer for a good while. The first bit broke and so that was my last ditch option. It worked.
    1985 LTD Crown Victoria - SOLD
    1988 Town Car Signature - Current Party Barge

  18. #298
    Still Wrenchin'! friskyfrankie's Avatar
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    Not sure about rear seat bolts but I've done the fronts (on a few Fords) with a REALLY old Craftsman powered Impact Tool and they did come out. Not easy but I didn't break anything - just let some PB Blaster soak on them for a few days prior to removal and all was well.

  19. #299
    2 decades of DDing Box Panthers, now in a Whale VicCrownVic's Avatar
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    Some come out with no problem others don't. I've broken a few impact T50 bits within the past couple years on 2 cars using a 1/2 breaker bar and dad's old pneumatic impact. (Sunex bits, time to find another brand, open to suggestions, but these were cheap on Ebay, LOL). This was after applying Liquid Wrench top and bottom months in advance and then again the day before and day of the next attempt. I even hammered on that bolt like Derek mentioned.
    Next step when it gets warm again (and after I buy a few more impact T50s) is to get the fire wrench out. All to replace the C-pillar interior panel in the Scab. (3-point belt goes through the panel and has to be unbolted from the floor). I even broke a bit on the same bolt on the JY donor car. For some reason the P-side came out of both cars with no issue, but D-side on the JY '90 and my '91 didn't and aren't budging.
    Vic

    ~ 1998 Mercury Grand Marquis LS - new DD
    ~ 1991 Mercury Grand Marquis LS "The Scab" - plenty of rot, backup/summer cruiser
    ~ 1997 GMC Yukon SLT - wannabe winter DD - many issues, returning sometime in the 2020s
    ~ 1991 Mercury Grand Marquis GS "The Ice Car" - Rotting Retired Winter DD
    ~ 1989 Mercury Grand Marquis GS - Rotting Retired DD
    Gone but not forgotten:
    ~ 1988 Country Squire ~ 1987 Ford Crown Vic

  20. #300
    The Brown Blob 87gtVIC's Avatar
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    Yes. I have removed them before. First time hurts for sure. As said soak it from underneath. Broken a couple bits but eventually got them out. Been fine ever since as I cleaned up the corrosion and coated the threads in anti seize.
    ~David~

    My 1987 Crown Victoria Coupe: The Brown Blob
    My 2004 Mercedes Benz E320:The Benz

    Quote Originally Posted by DerekTheGreat View Post
    But, that's just coming from me, this site's biggest pessimist. Best of luck

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