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Thread: My 1983 Continental Mark VI!

  1. #221
    GMN Regular DerekTheGreat's Avatar
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    You have to remove the filler panel they're attached to. It's an absurd amount of bolts for what it is and the access is terrible from behind the core support. Then you can get to the bolts which hold the lens off. Its just too hard to figure out which bolts are for the lens and which are for filler panel extension thing.
    1985 LTD Crown Victoria - SOLD
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  2. #222
    What a Luxury car should be. mercurygm88's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by DerekTheGreat View Post
    You have to remove the filler panel they're attached to. It's an absurd amount of bolts for what it is and the access is terrible from behind the core support. Then you can get to the bolts which hold the lens off. Its just too hard to figure out which bolts are for the lens and which are for filler panel extension thing.
    Of course they'd make it extremely difficult.

  3. #223
    What a Luxury car should be. mercurygm88's Avatar
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    I looked at the service manual and it doesnít actually tell you how to remove the turn signal lenses, just how to change the bulb. Which looks like it would take small hands and great dexterity itself. It appears that there are just two nuts on the back side holding the turn signal lenses in. Getting to those nuts is going to be the issue

  4. #224
    I'm an air-conditioned gypsy gadget73's Avatar
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    are you changing the entire assembly or just the lens? The assembly has 2 or 3 nuts on the back side at the front edge of the fender. If you want to get the lens out of the assembly, thats probably a heat thing. They mount in there with butyl tape. I expect you'd need to soften it to get the lens to let go.

    and yes removing the assembly blows. Long 1/4" extension, deep socket, and a flex joint make it possible. One you get through a hole next to the battery, the other you remove the washer tank to get at.

    There may or may not also be a screw or something that you access from underneath. I don't remember, but have a look with a flashlight before yanking.

    86 Lincoln Town Car (Galactica).
    5.0 HO, CompCams XE258,Scorpion 1.72 roller rockers, 3.55 K code rear, tow package, BHPerformance ported E7 heads, Tmoss Explorer intake, 65mm throttle body, Hedman 1 5/8" headers, 2.5" dual exhaust, ASP underdrive pulley

    91 Lincoln Mark VII LSC SE, triple black (Timewarp) - poly front bushings, KYB struts and shocks, Holley SystemMax1 lower intake, SilverFox AOD valve body,

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    I drive a Lincoln. I can't be bothered to shift like the peasants and rabble rousers

  5. #225
    What a Luxury car should be. mercurygm88's Avatar
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    Iím just replacing the clear lens, thatís all that was offered. Looking at it from the back I see two long bolts inside the fender, theyíre actually fairly easy to get to on either side. Neither the washer tank or battery is anywhere near them. But I donít know if the nuts on those studs are all thatís holding the assembly in place. The bulbs are surprisingly easy to remove. Iíll get some pics later.

    The current lenses are not original I have no idea if they were replaced by themselves or if someone replaced the whole assembly.
    Last edited by mercurygm88; 10-08-2021 at 07:04 PM.

  6. #226
    What a Luxury car should be. mercurygm88's Avatar
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    I could be totally wrong here but Iím guessing that center bolt seen at the 20 second mark is the top nut for the assembly and the bottom nut is somewhere in that hole below the bulb wiring?

    https://m.youtube.com/watch?v=jX9e-Ze6WrE

    This is all I could find in the service manual. And yes it looks like the lens/bulb housing is meant to be one piece. My luck Iíll find out I spent a bunch of money for something I canít even use.

    Last edited by mercurygm88; 10-08-2021 at 07:58 PM.

  7. #227
    What a Luxury car should be. mercurygm88's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by mercurygm88 View Post
    I could be totally wrong here but Iím guessing that center bolt seen at the 20 second mark is the top nut for the assembly and the bottom nut is somewhere in that hole below the bulb wiring?

    https://m.youtube.com/watch?v=jX9e-Ze6WrE

    This is all I could find in the service manual. And yes it looks like the lens/bulb housing is meant to be one piece. My luck Iíll find out I spent a bunch of money for something I canít even use.

    Update: I was able to remove one of the housings, easier to remove than install. The bottom nut is a bitch and you can barely turn a ratchet in there.

    The aftermarket lenses/housings that I have are simply marked ďMade in Mexico, TucanĒ Iíve never heard of this Tucan company.

    The bad news is that on my lights the lens and housing appears to be molded as one piece. Without heavy modification and cutting that I donít trust myself to do Iím not seeing a way of making the new lenses work.

    Looks like itís time to try to fight a refund out of the seller or try to resell these and recoup what I can.

    Stupid me should have looked into this in the first place but I just assumed the lens was a separate piece.

  8. #228
    Beater gonna beat sly's Avatar
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    The aftermarket ones are probably sonic welded together rather than glued like the OE stuff. And yeah... getting that apart cleanly would probably require a temperature controlled hot knife/razor/wire to melt them apart at a low enough temp to not burn anything. Probably about 200C or so. Then sanding the edge smooth to mount the new lens to. Yeah... lots of work there. I mean you could use an abrasive saw (cut-off wheel) and cut the lens off slightly proud of the reflector side and then sand down to a flat surface for mounting and clean it out. That might work too. Not sure what you would want to glue that with though. I don't know of anything that wouldn't look crap in there that would actually last a good long time. I'd probably end up using plastic welder epoxy (cures beige) or JB Weld Marine Weld (it cures white).

    Only two things are infinite, the universe and human stupidity, and I'm not sure about the former. -- Albert Einstein
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  9. #229
    I'm an air-conditioned gypsy gadget73's Avatar
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    huh, construction is different than what I remembered. I was thinking the chrome piece had the reflector attached to it, and the clear lens fitted into the chrome piece with butyl. maybe thats the Mark V then?

    86 Lincoln Town Car (Galactica).
    5.0 HO, CompCams XE258,Scorpion 1.72 roller rockers, 3.55 K code rear, tow package, BHPerformance ported E7 heads, Tmoss Explorer intake, 65mm throttle body, Hedman 1 5/8" headers, 2.5" dual exhaust, ASP underdrive pulley

    91 Lincoln Mark VII LSC SE, triple black (Timewarp) - poly front bushings, KYB struts and shocks, Holley SystemMax1 lower intake, SilverFox AOD valve body,

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    Quote Originally Posted by phayzer5 View Post
    I drive a Lincoln. I can't be bothered to shift like the peasants and rabble rousers

  10. #230
    What a Luxury car should be. mercurygm88's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by gadget73 View Post
    huh, construction is different than what I remembered. I was thinking the chrome piece had the reflector attached to it, and the clear lens fitted into the chrome piece with butyl. maybe thats the Mark V then?
    I was kind of hoping for something like that, or the lens fitting into the chrome piece separate from the bulb housing, but it isn't so.

  11. #231
    What a Luxury car should be. mercurygm88's Avatar
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    I was bored so hereís a video!

    https://m.youtube.com/watch?v=-tTfE7zOVM0

    That horrible knocking/clattering that sounds like an old diesel is coming from the smog pump. Iím not sure what itís up to but I canít imagine itís good. I imagine Iíll wait until it blows up or does whatever failed smog pumps do before I worry about it. It only does it for a minute or two on a cold start.

    A replacement smog pump is well over $200 even with my work discount, which is ridiculous but I require working cruise control and if I remember right the smog pump is pretty much required for that.

  12. #232
    fomoco panthers !
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    For 107.95 you can send your smog pump in to be re-manufactured through Rock Auto.
    How does a smog pump relate to the cruise control ?
    Last edited by Mainemantom; 10-09-2021 at 11:47 PM.

  13. #233
    What a Luxury car should be. mercurygm88's Avatar
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    Thatís much better than the price of the Cardone remans through work. My only issue with using a shorter belt is that I know the smog pump supplied most if not all of the vacuum for the cruise control on my 88 Grand Marquis. When I was having trouble getting a functional vacuum T for the HVAC on that car I actually temporarily hooked the HVAC vacuum like that went to the T under the hood to the vacuum side of the smog pump so that the system would stop defaulting to defrost. Iím figuring the Mark VI has the same set up.
    Last edited by mercurygm88; 10-09-2021 at 11:52 PM.

  14. #234
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    There's a bypass valve on the smog pump that supplies supplemental vacuum to the cruise control servo to keep it solid on those long up-hill climbs.

    Only two things are infinite, the universe and human stupidity, and I'm not sure about the former. -- Albert Einstein
    rides: 93 Crown Vic LX (The Red Velvet Cake), 2000 Crown Vic base model (Sandy), 2003 Expedition (the vacation beast)
    Quote Originally Posted by gadget73
    ... and it should all work like magic and unicorns and stuff.
    Quote Originally Posted by dmccaig
    Overhead, some poor bastards are flying in airplanes.

  15. #235
    The Brown Blob 87gtVIC's Avatar
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    No smog pump here on my vic. Cruise works fine.
    ~David~

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    But, that's just coming from me, this site's biggest pessimist. Best of luck

  16. #236
    What a Luxury car should be. mercurygm88's Avatar
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    Every time I look at everything involved in the smog pump system I decide that I have no desire to go through the trouble of removing everything and plugging the backs of the heads and the cats. My desire to tinker on things only goes so far, and my desire to actually work on projects only involves certain things.

    Itís much easier to just have it there in a possible inoperable state. My smog pump is like my EGR I donít know if itís working but I know the car is running fine.

  17. #237
    Lost and driftin' Arquemann's Avatar
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    I don't know how different the smog system is on a EEC-III system, but I can't possibly figure out any way that the smog pump would do anything else than pump air to the heads and cats.
    Mine is smog deleted and I haven't found any difference in the car's behaviour (I removed the smog pump due to awful bearing noise). Cruise control takes a while to kick in, but it's been like that always for me.

    What comes to doing the smog delete: it's pretty easy. And I'd assume the Thermactor and EGR are two completely separate entities in your car aswell.
    In the simplest form disabling the Thermactor is just unplugging the TAD/TAB solenoids on the pass. fender.

    I've personally removed all of the smog pump stuff, pump came out in 20 minutes, threw on a shorter belt and off I go. The solenoids, vacuum lines and air tubing took about half an hour to remove.
    Cap off the vacuum nipple at the vacuum distribution block, mount the MAP sensor and plug the two check valves going to the heads and cats. I used plastic furniture plugs from a hardware store, 2,49€ for 4. Even the one next to the passenger header has held up fine.
    I'll install the plug bolts into the backs of the heads next spring, since I'll get more access with the CFI, vacuum mess and intake removed.
    1985 Mercury Grand Marquis LS, "Maisa"
    2008 BMW 530d Touring, "Femma"

  18. #238
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    With the lopo, getting up the hill on a grade would cause you to need to open the throttle enough that if the grade lasted long enough (2-5 miles), the vacuum would degrade enough for the servo to let go since it's vacuum assisted. When you leveled out and throttle closed back up, it would engage again if the cruise had not been canceled. When I put the redneck ram air on the 88, it would create just enough pressure that cruise would loose pressure after about 5 miles if the speed was over 65. That's why I added the vacuum pump to that car. Had zero issues after that.

    Only two things are infinite, the universe and human stupidity, and I'm not sure about the former. -- Albert Einstein
    rides: 93 Crown Vic LX (The Red Velvet Cake), 2000 Crown Vic base model (Sandy), 2003 Expedition (the vacation beast)
    Quote Originally Posted by gadget73
    ... and it should all work like magic and unicorns and stuff.
    Quote Originally Posted by dmccaig
    Overhead, some poor bastards are flying in airplanes.

  19. #239
    Lost and driftin' Arquemann's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by sly View Post
    With the lopo, getting up the hill on a grade would cause you to need to open the throttle enough that if the grade lasted long enough (2-5 miles), the vacuum would degrade enough for the servo to let go since it's vacuum assisted. When you leveled out and throttle closed back up, it would engage again if the cruise had not been canceled. When I put the redneck ram air on the 88, it would create just enough pressure that cruise would loose pressure after about 5 miles if the speed was over 65. That's why I added the vacuum pump to that car. Had zero issues after that.
    Ah, everything is bigger in America, including hills lol
    But how does the smog pump create vacuum? As far as I've seen it's just a low-ish pressure air pump. Or does the TAD/TAB solenoids magically make vacuum?
    1985 Mercury Grand Marquis LS, "Maisa"
    2008 BMW 530d Touring, "Femma"

  20. #240
    What a Luxury car should be. mercurygm88's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Arquemann View Post
    Ah, everything is bigger in America, including hills lol
    But how does the smog pump create vacuum? As far as I've seen it's just a low-ish pressure air pump. Or does the TAD/TAB solenoids magically make vacuum?
    I imagine it's the intake side of the pump that is pulling the vacuum.

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