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Thread: My 1983 Continental Mark VI!

  1. #41
    I'm an air-conditioned gypsy gadget73's Avatar
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    I generally consider that a requirement for owning any old car. shop manual and an EVTM will cover a lot of ground

    86 Lincoln Town Car (Galactica).
    5.0 HO, CompCams XE258,Scorpion 1.72 roller rockers, 3.55 K code rear, tow package, BHPerformance ported E7 heads, Tmoss Explorer intake, 65mm throttle body, Hedman 1 5/8" headers, 2.5" dual exhaust, ASP underdrive pulley

    91 Lincoln Mark VII LSC SE, triple black (Timewarp) - poly front bushings, KYB struts and shocks, Holley SystemMax1 lower intake, SilverFox AOD valve body,

    1984 Lincoln Continental TurboDiesel - rolls coal

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  2. #42
    What a Luxury car should be. mercurygm88's Avatar
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    The Mark VI wouldnít start this morning. I thought it might be the fuel pump inertia switch as the previous owner was having issues with that. But I hear the fuel pump running so thatís not it.

    I guess this is the beginning of my CFI troubles. Plugs, wires, cap and rotor are new, coil looks to be original. Having never messed with a CFI car Iím not sure where to start.
    Last edited by mercurygm88; 07-04-2021 at 11:54 AM.

  3. #43
    Wagon Addicted Tiggie's Avatar
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    Pull a wire and see if you are getting spark.
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  4. #44
    What a Luxury car should be. mercurygm88's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Tiggie View Post
    Pull a wire and see if you are getting spark.
    Iíll have to grab a spark tester from work and check it out later.

  5. #45
    What a Luxury car should be. mercurygm88's Avatar
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    Supposing I get home and find out I have no spark which I assume is the case considering I have fuel where do I go from there? Do these have a pickup coil like the later cars with TFI? I grabbed a coil today because my cost was only $10 but I'm assuming coils just don't up and die like that. I've had coil on plug coils just randomly go from perfect to dead the next day, but not a single wire or cannister coil. Also how do I change this thing? I'm assuming it's just a two wire coil but there's some kind of plastic cover over the top of the coil and I can't really tell how the wires go into it.

    Thanks in advance for any advice, this one has me worried unfortunately. I'm really considering the possibility that the previous owner bandaged this thing so it would run long enough to sell it and leave the buyer high and dry. I don't trust people.

  6. #46
    Wagon Addicted Tiggie's Avatar
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    I think those animals have a crank position sensor. Coils do fail. Those "can coils" tend to fail when hot from my experience but it could be the problem. Distributor cap and rotor are worth a look.

    Fuel filter may also be worth checking on. Especially if the car has been setting.

    No worries. We'll get it running. Or a carb conversion.

    I would like to know if this car has two fuel pumps. In tank and in-line. I've heard varied tales about how their car was equipped and would like a straight answer from a real confirmed owner!
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  7. #47
    What a Luxury car should be. mercurygm88's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Tiggie View Post
    I think those animals have a crank position sensor. Coils do fail. Those "can coils" tend to fail when hot from my experience but it could be the problem. Distributor cap and rotor are worth a look.

    Fuel filter may also be worth checking on. Especially if the car has been setting.

    No worries. We'll get it running. Or a carb conversion.

    I would like to know if this car has two fuel pumps. In tank and in-line. I've heard varied tales about how their car was equipped and would like a straight answer from a real confirmed owner!
    Iíve heard the same stories. Iíve also heard of EEC III CFI cars having three fuel pumps! One in the tank, one in-line and one on the engine driven by the cam like on a carb setup. I would really like to avoid a carb swap if possible.

    The cap, rotor, plugs, and wires were done less than a month ago according to receipts that came with the car. Itís been daily driven for at least the past three months. I donít know itís history before the guy I bought it from.

  8. #48
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    The plastic cap on the coil is on tightly however just wiggle it upward. There are two wires that slip into the plastic cap, then clip onto the coil. You will see it when you remove the cap.
    The ignition box on the fender (like my 83 MGM with TBI) could be bad. They do go bad frequently. Power goes through the box before the coil so check out the box and the connections to it before replacing the coil. Non Motorcraft brands ignition boxes are not the best as far as long lasting. There is the ignition switch on the column which should be checked out too. Don't know what the inside of your distributor looks like. Some have replaceable parts, others don't. Crank position sensor is another real possibility of being bad.
    I would check around to see if there is a well know trusted mechanic in your area who knows THESE cars. Better to diagnose it properly then to throw parts at it. At least it is cheaper in the long run.
    Hopefully you don't have the problem I have with my MGM. So far it has not been fixed. My problem is electrical.

  9. #49
    What a Luxury car should be. mercurygm88's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Mainemantom View Post
    The plastic cap on the coil is on tightly however just wiggle it upward. There are two wires that slip into the plastic cap, then clip onto the coil. You will see it when you remove the cap.
    The ignition box on the fender (like my 83 MGM with TBI) could be bad. They do go bad frequently. Power goes through the box before the coil so check out the box and the connections to it before replacing the coil. Non Motorcraft brands ignition boxes are not the best as far as long lasting. There is the ignition switch on the column which should be checked out too. Don't know what the inside of your distributor looks like. Some have replaceable parts, others don't. Crank position sensor is another real possibility of being bad.
    I would check around to see if there is a well know trusted mechanic in your area who knows THESE cars. Better to diagnose it properly then to throw parts at it. At least it is cheaper in the long run.
    Hopefully you don't have the problem I have with my MGM. So far it has not been fixed. My problem is electrical.
    I have unfortunately been through every mechanic in the area and none of them can be trusted or can work on anything they canít plug their scanner into. The ignition module thatís in there currently is NAPA branded and looks fairly old.

  10. #50
    What a Luxury car should be. mercurygm88's Avatar
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    It appears to be an intermittent issue. I came home plugged the inertia switch back in, put the spark tester on it, and it fired right up. Maybe I should just replace the inertia switch for now?

    Kind of annoying.

  11. #51
    I'm an air-conditioned gypsy gadget73's Avatar
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    re-seat the connector for the crank position sensor too. If that connector is crusty you get no spark and no injector pulse. Should be roughly at the front passenger side corner of the intake, don't remember if its on the front or on top but somewhere in that general area. Look for the wire coming up from the crank pulley and thats the sensor.

    86 Lincoln Town Car (Galactica).
    5.0 HO, CompCams XE258,Scorpion 1.72 roller rockers, 3.55 K code rear, tow package, BHPerformance ported E7 heads, Tmoss Explorer intake, 65mm throttle body, Hedman 1 5/8" headers, 2.5" dual exhaust, ASP underdrive pulley

    91 Lincoln Mark VII LSC SE, triple black (Timewarp) - poly front bushings, KYB struts and shocks, Holley SystemMax1 lower intake, SilverFox AOD valve body,

    1984 Lincoln Continental TurboDiesel - rolls coal

    Quote Originally Posted by phayzer5 View Post
    I drive a Lincoln. I can't be bothered to shift like the peasants and rabble rousers

  12. #52
    What a Luxury car should be. mercurygm88's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by gadget73 View Post
    re-seat the connector for the crank position sensor too. If that connector is crusty you get no spark and no injector pulse. Should be roughly at the front passenger side corner of the intake, don't remember if its on the front or on top but somewhere in that general area. Look for the wire coming up from the crank pulley and thats the sensor.
    I'll check that out while I'm at it.

  13. #53
    What a Luxury car should be. mercurygm88's Avatar
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    I keep forgetting to post it but I got the Marti report on the Mark VI Saturday. I'm guessing that March of 1983 was right about the end of Mark VI production.


  14. #54
    GMN Regular DerekTheGreat's Avatar
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    Oh, so the digi dash was standard on IV's?
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  15. #55
    I'm an air-conditioned gypsy gadget73's Avatar
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    I think so, analog VI are very uncommon. The interior from my car came from an analog dash 1983 Signature. Unfortunately some dick pried the radio out of the dash with a crowbar and destroyed the piece of trim where the tripminder buttons go, so I have a piece of holy trim in that location. Have not been able to find the correct non-digital panel. Signature woodgrain is also slightly different than standard which makes it even more rare.

    86 Lincoln Town Car (Galactica).
    5.0 HO, CompCams XE258,Scorpion 1.72 roller rockers, 3.55 K code rear, tow package, BHPerformance ported E7 heads, Tmoss Explorer intake, 65mm throttle body, Hedman 1 5/8" headers, 2.5" dual exhaust, ASP underdrive pulley

    91 Lincoln Mark VII LSC SE, triple black (Timewarp) - poly front bushings, KYB struts and shocks, Holley SystemMax1 lower intake, SilverFox AOD valve body,

    1984 Lincoln Continental TurboDiesel - rolls coal

    Quote Originally Posted by phayzer5 View Post
    I drive a Lincoln. I can't be bothered to shift like the peasants and rabble rousers

  16. #56
    What a Luxury car should be. mercurygm88's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by DerekTheGreat View Post
    Oh, so the digi dash was standard on IV's?
    Yes according to at least the 1980 brochure I have and the 1983 brochure I've seen online the digidash was standard on the Mark VI. I've also noticed that my base model has a chrome trim ring around the wood grain whereas the signature series had gold trim.

    I'm really surprised at how good of shape the keyless entry buttons are in and that the previous owner had the code. I've seen early 90's cars where the buttons were drying out and getting brittle, or were at least faded beyond reading.

  17. #57
    GMN Regular slack's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by mercurygm88 View Post
    I'm really surprised at how good of shape the keyless entry buttons are in and that the previous owner had the code. I've seen early 90's cars where the buttons were drying out and getting brittle, or were at least faded beyond reading.
    Yeah, the buttons on my 97 Town Car back on 2006 were all faded and cracked already and it wasn't even 10 years old at the time.


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  18. #58
    I'm an air-conditioned gypsy gadget73's Avatar
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    The early ones were made a little different. I have a set from an 82 on my car and they're good. Not that they do anything, I don't have keyless on my car, but the trim panel was nice. Its one of the things I've been meaning to add for years now. Have the module somewhere and I recently got the connector to mate up to that early door button set.

    86 Lincoln Town Car (Galactica).
    5.0 HO, CompCams XE258,Scorpion 1.72 roller rockers, 3.55 K code rear, tow package, BHPerformance ported E7 heads, Tmoss Explorer intake, 65mm throttle body, Hedman 1 5/8" headers, 2.5" dual exhaust, ASP underdrive pulley

    91 Lincoln Mark VII LSC SE, triple black (Timewarp) - poly front bushings, KYB struts and shocks, Holley SystemMax1 lower intake, SilverFox AOD valve body,

    1984 Lincoln Continental TurboDiesel - rolls coal

    Quote Originally Posted by phayzer5 View Post
    I drive a Lincoln. I can't be bothered to shift like the peasants and rabble rousers

  19. #59
    Member atlantic3000's Avatar
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    my 83 has one fuel pump in tank. had a 87 f150 with 2 a while back.
    usually the no spark is either the module on the fender or the crank sensor.
    sometimes the module box leaks goo down the fender when its going bad. but not every time.
    sometimes the bad parts act up due to heat.

    not related to current issue but if it has never had timing chain done do it now since they used aluminum nylon top gear and streatchy single row chain.
    at same time good idea to do water pump. hoses t stat and fan clutch if old. you dont want it to jump time and fill pan with nylon and aluminum.

  20. #60
    What a Luxury car should be. mercurygm88's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by atlantic3000 View Post
    my 83 has one fuel pump in tank. had a 87 f150 with 2 a while back.
    usually the no spark is either the module on the fender or the crank sensor.
    sometimes the module box leaks goo down the fender when its going bad. but not every time.
    sometimes the bad parts act up due to heat.

    not related to current issue but if it has never had timing chain done do it now since they used aluminum nylon top gear and streatchy single row chain.
    at same time good idea to do water pump. hoses t stat and fan clutch if old. you dont want it to jump time and fill pan with nylon and aluminum.
    The fender module is less than a year old per records I have. Iím fairly certain itís the failing inertia switch since the previous owner was having issues with it. I have a new one on the way. I donít know that it was a no spark issue, I was assuming it was lack of spark before I messed with the inertia switch. Iíve had it poop twice on me in a week and a half.

    Also Iím guessing the timing chain has already been done. I know about the nylon gear issue and I canít imagine it made it this many miles running as good as it does on the original. Pretty much everything under the hood is fairly new or looks new including radiator hoses and vacuum lines.

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