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CFI random stall on decel/quick stop when hot

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    #31
    if you can figure out which side of that solenoid is constant hot, grounding the other side of it manually will let you test the high idle system. That would prove the vac source, the vac lines, and the kicker all in one go.

    the EGR valves can get jammed open in these. usually makes it idle bad or not at all, but maybe worth a look. They get carbon packed around the pintle and it doesn't seal correctly.
    86 Lincoln Town Car (Galactica).
    5.0 HO, CompCams XE258,Scorpion 1.72 roller rockers, 3.55 K code rear, tow package, BHPerformance ported E7 heads, Tmoss Explorer intake, 65mm throttle body, Hedman 1 5/8" headers, 2.5" dual exhaust, ASP underdrive pulley

    91 Lincoln Mark VII LSC grandpa spec white and cranberry

    1984 Lincoln Continental TurboDiesel - rolls coal

    Originally posted by phayzer5
    I drive a Lincoln. I can't be bothered to shift like the peasants and rabble rousers

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      #32
      EGR valve had been cleaned. No deposit on the pintle and leak free seating. High idle is not controlled via an IAC solenoid on my 84 but vacuum kicker. EGR is however solenoid controlled.

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        #33
        its a vacuum kicker, but the vacuum is applied through a solenoid. When the solenoid activates, the kicker extends.
        86 Lincoln Town Car (Galactica).
        5.0 HO, CompCams XE258,Scorpion 1.72 roller rockers, 3.55 K code rear, tow package, BHPerformance ported E7 heads, Tmoss Explorer intake, 65mm throttle body, Hedman 1 5/8" headers, 2.5" dual exhaust, ASP underdrive pulley

        91 Lincoln Mark VII LSC grandpa spec white and cranberry

        1984 Lincoln Continental TurboDiesel - rolls coal

        Originally posted by phayzer5
        I drive a Lincoln. I can't be bothered to shift like the peasants and rabble rousers

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          #34
          Ah, now I understand.
          The stall is gone now with the new TFI connector.

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            #35
            Loose connections/corroded connectors are the bane of old cars.

            Only two things are infinite, the universe and human stupidity, and I'm not sure about the former. -- Albert Einstein
            rides: 93 Crown Vic LX (The Red Velvet Cake), 2000 Crown Vic base model (Sandy), 2003 Expedition (the vacation beast)
            Originally posted by gadget73
            ... and it should all work like magic and unicorns and stuff.
            Originally posted by dmccaig
            Overhead, some poor bastards are flying in airplanes.

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              #36
              Stalling solved - caused by radio turned on - bluetooth module in suspicion!

              Hi, I think I solved the mysterious random stalling on decel or hard stop.
              It must be caused by the radio, or better said very likely the bluetooth module I piggybacked onto the stock tape radio to have selected music while keeping the 80s looks.

              I confirmed that as soon as I turn on the radio the car behaves with the stalling. Without radio there is none.

              Interesting find was that during the time I drove without the dome lights fuse (due to my interior working of refurbishing things and not wanting to drain the battery like I had in the past) I had no radio signal. Radio did turn on but there was only hiss on all channels. Plug back in that 20Amps fuse for dome lights and you have radio signal. Is that normal? Some sort of auxiliary antenna amplifier I guess.

              Anyway, while on the TFI info hunt I stumbled across the necesarity of shileding certain wires in the harness to the TFI to prevent, I think it was radio pickup. That´s what made me think abuot my issue and voilá.....TFI acts up with radio turned on. My shileding in the harness is still there. However I did not shiled the few inches of wire from the new connector. Should I?

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                #37
                Worth a shot. The real thing to check now that it's electrical noise causing the issue, is the capacitor on the coil. If it's original, it is most likely not doing anything any more.

                Only two things are infinite, the universe and human stupidity, and I'm not sure about the former. -- Albert Einstein
                rides: 93 Crown Vic LX (The Red Velvet Cake), 2000 Crown Vic base model (Sandy), 2003 Expedition (the vacation beast)
                Originally posted by gadget73
                ... and it should all work like magic and unicorns and stuff.
                Originally posted by dmccaig
                Overhead, some poor bastards are flying in airplanes.

                Comment


                  #38
                  Radio NOT culprit for stall - curb idle set too low.

                  Well, I´m kinda ashamed for not checking the most obvious first: curb idle!
                  Hence I must correct my radio/bluetooth cuplrit thing. This had nothing to do with the stall. I verified it this weekend on a 400 mile trip on our autobahn. BTW, cruise set to 70mph I averaged 22mpg with AC off and 18.8mpg with AC on. Pretty nice isn´t it? And that was E10 gasoline.

                  Anyway, the stalling actually was caused by curb idle set too low by PO. The throttle kicker (VOTM) was not engaging the throttle lever when actuated. Too much load (AC, lights and radio all on) caused it to stall on sudden stops.

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                    #39
                    I think you mentioned the curb idle quite a while back. Did you pull too many hairs before realising this?
                    The correct curb idle is kinda on the high side, so you might've not realised that you idle was set "too low".

                    I'm quite envious of your mileage, but atleast I can comfort myself on my CFI being borked. I can't get over 16mpg even if I drafted behind a damn semi truck. Though it won't get any better before I get the carb on top or the CFI magically gets fixed.
                    1985 Mercury Grand Marquis LS, "Maisa"
                    1995 Chevrolet Caprice Classic STW, "Sally"

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                      #40
                      Hi Arquemann,
                      yeah, I pulled a lotta hairs. I had read too much about the CFI EECIV issues that I totally overlooked the idle.

                      And yes, I´m a bit proud to get this good mileage. 16 mpg I get around town.

                      And I still run all stock sensors. HEGO, MAP, TPS, EGR, all original from 1984. At least they´re Motorcraft and look like from factory due to dirt and dust.

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                        #41
                        Originally posted by Hillbillycat View Post
                        Hi Arquemann,
                        yeah, I pulled a lotta hairs. I had read too much about the CFI EECIV issues that I totally overlooked the idle.

                        And yes, I´m a bit proud to get this good mileage. 16 mpg I get around town.

                        And I still run all stock sensors. HEGO, MAP, TPS, EGR, all original from 1984. At least they´re Motorcraft and look like from factory due to dirt and dust.
                        Now that this issue seems to have been solved, is your ride starting to be somewhat sorted out?
                        On mine the troubleshooting has lasted 2 years... and is going to end in removing the thing that causes the problem: everything
                        1985 Mercury Grand Marquis LS, "Maisa"
                        1995 Chevrolet Caprice Classic STW, "Sally"

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                          #42
                          Yes, I think (hope) so. The only issue I´m having so far is speed control dropping out when lights are on. This is due to PO messing with the turn/brake/tail lights to meet german laws where you need an amber turn signal, separate from the brake light. Since he drew no schematic I have to trace his wires and find out what he did in the first place. I made my own schematic from the electric & vacuum troubleshooting manual that should work.

                          Car drove well already when I bought it in May 2021. I did mostly cosmetics and sound deadening. Just a lot of TLC to get the shine back these had when new and not been neglected.

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                            #43
                            Off topic, but could you write a bit on the sound deadening you did and how it's turned out?
                            1987 Lincoln Town Car - Signature, "Prudence"

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                              #44
                              I used six rolls of aluminum-butyl mats and did the entire trunk without deck lid. Package tray, behind rear seat, rear wheel arches, doors (outer and inner - totally sealing up all openings here), front and rear footwells, tranny hump front and back (while the carpet was in the car and just folded back to fight my water intrusion), and the roof plus center and c-pillars.

                              The only noise that´s left is from the windows. Only thicker glass could help in this case and front tires. The weatherstripping is fine and tight (did back them up with universal D-shape adhesive weatherstrip - that pushes them out and they seal tight again.

                              Town Cars are already pretty silent, but I´d say it did quiet it down even more. Doing the roof was very good for the aluminum is shielding summer heat off from burning onto your head. And same is for the front footwells - no more heat transfer from down there even after hours on the highway. I felt for the floor on my last trip and it was rather cool. Tranny hump had just jute under the carpet - using the aluminumbutyl did quiet down the tranny whine quite some.

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                                #45
                                I've been doing quite a bit of research recently on acoustic treatments, and I think I'm just about ready to order some materials. The Box Town Cars are pretty quiet already, as you say, but they're still noisier than most modern vehicles. I've found I can't really listen to Classical while cruising down the highway, as there's just too much ambient sound. Any Pop or Rock - no problem - but there's a much smaller dynamic range for most of that music.

                                And yeah, the glass is what it is, which is another point for newer cars with their acoustic windshields. This fact deterred me from doing any sound treatment last time I looked into it - even if you seal up the rest of the car, sound will still transmit through the material with the lowest STC rating. And given the aerodynamics of a Box, there's a lot of wind noise produced around the glass.

                                Some advice I recently received is to try to absorb the sound that does make its way inside. There are a few companies that sell special acoustic foams, including melamine (Magic Eraser stuff). But I'm not interested in spending a fortune if I can help it. One guy claimed he had good success using acoustic ceiling tiles, fiberglass in his case, wrapped in plastic and secured within his door cavities.

                                My current plan is to use the butyl deadener stuff on the doors and roof, followed by rigid mineral wool boards in the door cavities and above the headliner. The mineral wool has a NRC above 0.80, depending on the thickness, so I'm interested in whether it will have any effect on the wind noise. It also should have some thermal insulating properties, for what that's worth. I assume you had near full coverage with the butyl mats to achieve heat shielding with it. I don't think I'll buy enough of that stuff to do the same, but I might look into some sort of separate radiant barrier.
                                1987 Lincoln Town Car - Signature, "Prudence"

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