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CFI random stall on decel/quick stop when hot

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    CFI random stall on decel/quick stop when hot

    Hey, need the help of you CFI gurus.
    This seems to be a common issue, but found no solution in the archieves.

    My 84 Town Car stalls randomly on deceleration or hard stops. Did not do so when I bought it and before I had worked on it (new vac lines, pulldown diaphragm, fixed vac leaks, EGR valve cleaned, coolant flush....)

    Runs smooth and quiet from cold start to long drives.


    Car throws these codes:
    KOEO code: 85 on demand; 14,41 in continuity memory.
    85 is CANP
    41 is HEGO always lean
    14 is erratic ignition PIP

    Interestingly enough I donīt have a CANP solenoid. The vacuum purge valve is controlled by the green 3port vacuum valve in the intake manifold (rear to the firewall). One side controls the CANP, the other side the heat riser valve.
    Last edited by Hillbillycat; 07-12-2021, 05:55 AM.

    #2
    Check the TFI connector, make sure the contacts are clean, well seated and the wires are in good condition. Caused an erratic pip code on mine and a random stall once when it wasnt plugged in all the way.
    1985 Mercury Grand Marquis LS, "Maisa"
    1995 Chevrolet Caprice Classic STW, "Sally"

    Comment


      #3
      That connector is secured with a zip tie from PO already. - Almost all connectors are secured that way due to broken tabs.
      Iīll clip it and check for corrosion.

      Wires:
      unplug both ends (TFI module and ECM connector) and measure resistance, right? Or is there another way to tell if the wires are good?

      Comment


        #4
        Not sure if it'll help but check this post:

        http://www.grandmarq.net/vb/showthre...l=1#post831919
        1985 Mercury Grand Marquis LS, "Maisa"
        1995 Chevrolet Caprice Classic STW, "Sally"

        Comment


          #5
          The canp solenoid on these I think is in the group on the driver's side valve cover. If I'm not mistaken it runs to that thermal valve, and that switches from being connected to the canister purge valve or the heat riser flap thing. If yours is missing and just plumbed to straight vacuum all the time that could be the issue. Its not supposed to have the purge valve open constantly. that will make for quite a big vacuum leak.

          What do you get for engine running codes ?
          86 Lincoln Town Car (Galactica).
          5.0 HO, CompCams XE258,Scorpion 1.72 roller rockers, 3.55 K code rear, tow package, BHPerformance ported E7 heads, Tmoss Explorer intake, 65mm throttle body, Hedman 1 5/8" headers, 2.5" dual exhaust, ASP underdrive pulley

          91 Lincoln Mark VII LSC grandpa spec white and cranberry

          1984 Lincoln Continental TurboDiesel - rolls coal

          Originally posted by phayzer5
          I drive a Lincoln. I can't be bothered to shift like the peasants and rabble rousers

          Comment


            #6
            Yourīre right. I forgot about these three solenoid things. Theyīre there and hooked up - but wait a minute. I had that EGR valve unlugged and capped off prior to cleaning. That mustīve thrown that 85 code.

            Didnīt do any KOER tests yet for Iīm not sure how to proceed. I have the scanner but not the manual.
            Do I just hook it up, turn it on and start the engine?

            Comment


              #7
              Click image for larger version

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              Pic courtesy of matth825.
              1985 Mercury Grand Marquis LS, "Maisa"
              1995 Chevrolet Caprice Classic STW, "Sally"

              Comment


                #8
                Pulled the TFI connector. The spades inside the (new from PO) TFI module were clean but the connector end was totally green from oxidation. Hosed it down with contact cleaner spray and tired to remove as much as green stuff as possible. My dental picks came in very handy for this job.
                Will see if that cures the random stall on decel/quick stops and the code 14.
                If not Iīll have to get a new connector and get my soldering iron out......

                Comment


                  #9
                  Originally posted by Hillbillycat View Post
                  If not Iīll have to get a new connector and get my soldering iron out......
                  The cleaning might just what you needed, but if you do go as far as replacing the TFI connector it would be a perfect time to look into doing a remote TFI setup. Although it may be a little harder to get the heatsink where you are. Typically people will cut a few fins to remotely connect the PIP pins of the TFI, but another option is to use a '92+ F150 distributor and TFI module which was a factory remote TFI setup, although requires some wiring work which is not really any more complex than replacing the stock TFI connector. http://www.grandmarq.net/vb/showthre...tor-Conversion I did end up moving the mounting location to the radiator core support when I did the '90+ air box/washer bottle install.
                  Vic

                  ~ 1989 MGM LS Colony Park - Large Marge
                  ~ 1998 MGM LS - new DD
                  ~ 1991 MGM LS "The Scab"
                  ~ 1991 MGM GS "The Ice Car"

                  Comment


                    #10
                    Looked into the remote thing. Sounds plausible and rather easy to do, but Iīve both read and came to the conclusion that the TFI module on our Panthers is pretty much in the diret airstream of the fan. That should do some serious cooling, doesnīt it?
                    Iīll wait and see if the cleaning of the contacts did the trick. Then an airduct might be a simple and quick way to check if heatīs really the problem. Someone mentioned that the remote TFI actually exposes the distributor to more air and cooling and that this is the real benefit of the mod. Cougar, Ranger and otherīs had more heat stress on the TFI/dizzy.

                    Comment


                      #11
                      Originally posted by Hillbillycat View Post
                      Someone mentioned that the remote TFI actually exposes the distributor to more air and cooling and that this is the real benefit of the mod. Cougar, Ranger and otherīs had more heat stress on the TFI/dizzy.
                      That would make sense, that it's more of a benefit to the dizzy/pickup than actually being a benefit to the TFI module itself on the panthers. Essentially getting the TFI out of the way so the remaining components can be better cooled. As I had mentioned in the thread I had linked, my suspected TFI issue was likely not the TFI at all and more likely the pickup.
                      Other Ford vehicles certainly had worse conditions for keeping the TFI/dizzy cool.
                      Vic

                      ~ 1989 MGM LS Colony Park - Large Marge
                      ~ 1998 MGM LS - new DD
                      ~ 1991 MGM LS "The Scab"
                      ~ 1991 MGM GS "The Ice Car"

                      Comment


                        #12
                        I've run some really old TFI modules. The original on my black Mark VII went well over 200k before I replaced it. It wasn't even bad, it was actually a pickup failure, but I had already bolted the new one on by the time I realized it. I still have it around here somewhere. If the engine isn't overheating they generally last fine. The only time I actually had one die on me personally was the day after the water pump gasket blew, puked all the coolant out, and overheated the engine.
                        86 Lincoln Town Car (Galactica).
                        5.0 HO, CompCams XE258,Scorpion 1.72 roller rockers, 3.55 K code rear, tow package, BHPerformance ported E7 heads, Tmoss Explorer intake, 65mm throttle body, Hedman 1 5/8" headers, 2.5" dual exhaust, ASP underdrive pulley

                        91 Lincoln Mark VII LSC grandpa spec white and cranberry

                        1984 Lincoln Continental TurboDiesel - rolls coal

                        Originally posted by phayzer5
                        I drive a Lincoln. I can't be bothered to shift like the peasants and rabble rousers

                        Comment


                          #13
                          So far no stall on decel/quick stop since cleaning the TFI connector.
                          Although now I have a stall after every startup now that the AC is fixed. I claim this to the throttle kicker not doing itīs job the way it should. No time to verify my guess though. Will check if it doensīt stall when starting with the ATC lever on "off" or "vent" (no AC clutch engaged).

                          Comment


                            #14
                            Cool.

                            Yah I think it's good practice to turn all accessories off when you kill the engine or just before, especially the A/C.
                            1985 LTD Crown Victoria - SOLD
                            1988 Town Car Signature - Current Party Barge

                            Comment


                              #15
                              Still stalling, so the cleaning of the connecter didnīt help:-(
                              Turning off the AC for hot starting helps, as well as pressing the accelerator pedal slightly down (like in the manual suggested).

                              Re the stalling:
                              I can generate a stumble on smooth idling engine if I wiggle the harness at the connector - so I assume (hope) itīs only the brittle old connector that needs replacement to fix this. I have ordered a new connector.

                              BUT I had the car stall last night when coasting into town (with torque converter in lockup) and shifting into neutral. It immediately stalled. I had done this to see if the higher curb idle in neutral vs. drive would prevent the stalling. It did not. So I thought it might be the lockup not disengaging.
                              On the other hand it also stalls during driving around town and the trannyīs not in overdrive here.

                              Had taken a close look at the mechanical linkage of the CFI throttle body and TV rod/leverage this morning. Saw that the TV lever is dragging on the throttle shaft. It looks like it was sprayed with sticky adhesive grease. Manually working the lever revelaed itīs not fully retracting by the pullback spring when throttle is off of the hot idle cam (which is the case on a hot engine). So I soaked it down with brake cleaner, working the lever to get the dirt out. Now itīs much freer. Rain stopped me from taking the car for a test spin.

                              I could also think of the vacuum throttle kicker not doing itīs job quite right i.e. leaking. I can pull vacuum on this dashpot thing and the plunger extends. It DOES NOT hold vacuum, it just extrudes while a vacuum source is applied. The vacuum however is weak and it will not lift off the throttle once closed. I come to believe this is what they were designed - not to step up the throttle, but to prevent a snap shut and slowing down the closing movement.

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