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Thread: Fusible Link Replacement?

  1. #1
    P31 Pursuit Car Brown_Muscle's Avatar
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    Question Fusible Link Replacement?

    I intended to replace the fusible links under the hood of my car by using a centralized fuse box and blade fuses, as I've seen done on here. After some research, basically every source i found said to NOT do this. The links are slower blowing, and apparently safer somehow. I don't understand why a blade fuse would have a higher tendency to blow unless something went wrong with the circuit. Others said maxi-fuses can be used, but usually their amperage rating is too high. Should I just leave them alone?
    -Phil



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  2. #2
    I'm an air-conditioned gypsy gadget73's Avatar
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    Its probably to do with fuse speed. Fuse links are a slow blow, they will take a high current surge for a brief time without popping. I don't know that they are more or less safe, just that they are more difficult to deal with if they do blow.

    Kind of a personal choice thing. If they aren't broken you aren't going to fix anything by adding a box. If you go to a fuse box, its not going to be less safe unless you size the fuses poorly or do a bad job wiring it. Having seen a lot of really bad electrical work, my guess is thats where the real danger lies, not so much the fact that there are fuses instead of fuse links.

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    Road Warrior Kodachrome Wolf's Avatar
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    There's a few of us here that have swapped to fuse boxes to replace the fuse link setup. Probably the most annoying issue to sort out is the fact that there's several circuits that are independent of each other, but all share the same color wire in that bundle.

    Using a fuse link guide (essentially the gauge of wire used equates to the max amperage that circuit should be handling) made it pretty straightforwards, and you'll find most of the donor fuse blocks have fuses of similar amperage already present protecting those circuits.

    Overall, it's a nice improvement for underhood cleanliness and does give you the benefit of easier to fix circuit protection if something pops. If you also use external relays, you can move them inside that box. I took the time to take the external headlight relay, horn relay, and A/C fan relay and moved them all into my fuse block when I installed it.

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    P31 Pursuit Car Brown_Muscle's Avatar
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    What you guys are saying makes sense to me. It would greatly help the wiring mess I have there now. I found a few different sources, with different recommendations on what fuses to use. Which of these looks best to you?

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    -Phil



    +1982 Ford LTD-S Police Car. Built 351w, Trickflow 11R 190 Heads, Edelbrock 1906 Carb+ RPM Intake, WR-AOD, Full exhaust headers to tails. 3.27 Trac-Lok Rear. Aluminum Police Driveshaft. Speedway Springs+Bilstein Shocks, Intermediate Brakes, HPP Steering Box.

    +2003 Acura CL Type S 6-speed

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    GMN Regular Giraffe's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Kodachrome Wolf View Post
    There's a few of us here that have swapped to fuse boxes to replace the fuse link setup. Probably the most annoying issue to sort out is the fact that there's several circuits that are independent of each other, but all share the same color wire in that bundle.

    Using a fuse link guide (essentially the gauge of wire used equates to the max amperage that circuit should be handling) made it pretty straightforwards, and you'll find most of the donor fuse blocks have fuses of similar amperage already present protecting those circuits.

    Overall, it's a nice improvement for underhood cleanliness and does give you the benefit of easier to fix circuit protection if something pops. If you also use external relays, you can move them inside that box. I took the time to take the external headlight relay, horn relay, and A/C fan relay and moved them all into my fuse block when I installed it.
    Is there a fuse link guide on this site or any others? This is definitely an upgrade I'd like to do. Fuse links just seem antiquated to me.
    óJohn

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    Beater gonna beat sly's Avatar
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    The black and white chart looks correct to me. The other chart is way too small on the fuses and you would blow them instantly. The general idea for fusing wires is to protect the wire. The fuse link is smaller than the wire it protects. Typically most circuits in a Ford are 18 or 16 gauge wire. These are typically 15-20 amp circuits. You can use a wire gauge calculator like the one here: https://www.wirebarn.com/Wire-Calculator-_ep_41.html to figure out ratings. Use 5% voltage drop instead of 2%. Generally 10 feet is the typical run of wires for a safe guestimate if you don't know the actual length. Brake lights and fuel pump will be the exception here, but won't matter in the grand scheme of things as those are also fatter lines.

    I think the fuse sizes are one size large in that chart though. 16 AWG wire is typically on a 20 amp circuit, not 25 amp. Of course, if you set everything up, keep a batch of fuses with you and just size up the fuse one step if you blow one. Like if you're running a 15 amp and it blows, put in a 20 amp. But if that blows as well, check the circuit to make sure there's no ground shorts first before going up another step.

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    Good info here, thanks
    ..

  8. #8
    P31 Pursuit Car Brown_Muscle's Avatar
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    Awesome! Thanks

    One more electrical question- I have my 8-gauge amplifier wire running from under the hood to the trunk with a 50A inline fuse attached to it. The largest megafuse wire I have is about 12 gauge. If I only use a few inches of the 12 gauge megafuse wire and attach it to the 8 gauge, will I be ok? My basic understanding is that because the 12 gauge wire is so short, it will be able to carry a high level of amperage with little voltage drop, and the larger 8 gauge wire with its lower resistance will carry the current the rest of the way.
    -Phil



    +1982 Ford LTD-S Police Car. Built 351w, Trickflow 11R 190 Heads, Edelbrock 1906 Carb+ RPM Intake, WR-AOD, Full exhaust headers to tails. 3.27 Trac-Lok Rear. Aluminum Police Driveshaft. Speedway Springs+Bilstein Shocks, Intermediate Brakes, HPP Steering Box.

    +2003 Acura CL Type S 6-speed

  9. #9
    Beater gonna beat sly's Avatar
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    I would feel better with 10 AWG, but if it's just a few inches (less than 1 foot), then it will basically work like a fuse link with a 50A fuse in it.

    I'm using 6 AWG (probably 7 AWG actual) for my 60A link to my subs. I have used twin 30A (12 AWG) fuse holders for that setup originally using twin 10 AWG wire. Didn't have any issues with that. I did make sure to make things the same length.

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    Quote Originally Posted by gadget73
    ... and it should all work like magic and unicorns and stuff.
    Quote Originally Posted by dmccaig
    Overhead, some poor bastards are flying in airplanes.

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    After reading this thread again, I have a fuse/fuse box related question but i'll start another thread.
    Thanks
    ..

  11. #11
    P31 Pursuit Car Brown_Muscle's Avatar
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    So it turns out I only had 2 fusible links, and a circuit breaker to wire in to the box. The other 3 links and circuit breaker that have always been an eye sore...were for police/towing options that no longer exist. go figure. I left the sub wiring as it is, I couldn't bear to put it into a smaller wire, heh.
    -Phil



    +1982 Ford LTD-S Police Car. Built 351w, Trickflow 11R 190 Heads, Edelbrock 1906 Carb+ RPM Intake, WR-AOD, Full exhaust headers to tails. 3.27 Trac-Lok Rear. Aluminum Police Driveshaft. Speedway Springs+Bilstein Shocks, Intermediate Brakes, HPP Steering Box.

    +2003 Acura CL Type S 6-speed

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